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I thought I'd pimp our latest purchase, a 40" long, 3/4" drive breaker bar. That is a quarter for reference.  
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Jul 23, 2009 18:27
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:It's...it's beautiful. I don't even call it a breaker bar. I call it a murder bar. It's meant to remove the 36mm crankshaft bolt on new GM 6.0 or 6.6 engines (I can't remember). I gotta wonder what the torque spec on those is.
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Jul 27, 2009 04:32
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Had to borrow my dad's drill. Well, it wasn't really his, but his late grandfather's, so I was using my great-grandpa's drill. From 1956.    Needless to say, they don't make them like they used to.
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Nov 5, 2009 23:47
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Hypnolobster posted:Oh kickass. What make is it? Black and Decker. And yeah, the thing has so much torque I was almost scared to death to use it. Also, it smells like old people.
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Nov 6, 2009 04:27
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Kind of a crosspost from the BMW thread, but we got this in at work today: I'll definitely be using it to remove my E36's mechanical fan nut, which happens to be a 32mm. Lord help me if I forget its reverse-threaded, though!
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Nov 13, 2009 19:22
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I remembered that I had 31k worth of 'thankyou' points. Just got one of these for free and I still have 10k points left  Yeah its not USB-compatible but my computer has the appropriate port so I'm happy
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Jan 14, 2010 22:14
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In my experience, Harbor Freight tools are built cheap, but in most cases are still 'good enough' for the shadetree mechanic. Actually my shop gets a lot of our tools from Harbor Freight, too, though I have seen a number get broken. I wouldn't get sockets or spanners from HF but for a lot of other things you really can't go wrong with their prices.
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Jan 19, 2010 14:18
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My Equus 3130 came today! Been playing around with it, but I can't do much until I get an RS232-USB cable so I can make graphs and stuff on my computer. My car has no DTCs stored at all (didn't think it did, but there are some that won't immediately turn the CEL on) and the green light came on and said it would pass emissions like it was nothing. Not bad for a 180k mile car. I can't even imagine how much I'll save on diagnostics using this.
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Jan 21, 2010 00:33
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Holy crap I'm stopping at True Value this week. My wife works next door to one.
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Feb 4, 2010 18:41
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Mooecow posted:Keep in mind that True Value stores are independently owned and operated. Unless the store is owned by the same person, they probably won't have the same specials/clearance sales. Yeah they didn't have poo poo.  I really need to go to Harbor Freight this weekend, they always have cheap poo poo sitting out front. And I have $60 worth of gift cards.
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Feb 5, 2010 04:50
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RealKyleH posted:I do almost all autocad as they didnt want to or need to buy me a seat of Inventor > I use Solidworks daily at work. It's fantastic in the sense that it can import/export a ridiculous amount of formats, but it is quite limited in certain areas. I get frustrated fairly often at it.
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Feb 9, 2010 04:58
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Stopped at Harbor Freight on my way home today. I'm doing some suspension work pretty soon and wanted some 1/2" drive tools in case I had stubborn bolts. I came back happy: 25" long 1/2" drive breaker bar. $11.99 on sale  21 piece 1/2" drive socket set, $29.99 on sale (I'm not so sure about that push-button ratchet, but that's not why I bought the set anyway. I think of it as a socket set that comes with a free ratchet!) Then I picked up some stuff for around the house, so I don't have to run out and get my tools out of my trunk all the time.  Simple little universal screwdriver, $1.49 on clearance (holy poo poo!)  Lockjaw needle nose pliers, $4.29 regular price (this was the only size they had in stock I like to use these to open soy sauce, those drat caps always loving seal shut)Total cost was $51.10 after taxes. I'd say I made out alright.
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Mar 15, 2010 23:34
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Sockington posted:Only 1/2" ?  (We have a number of them at work - 3/4" drive, 40" long) (and I have seen them broken.)
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Mar 16, 2010 00:00
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dv6speed posted:That's why they make pipe, and lifetime tool warranties. That new breaker bar I bought says specifically not to use an extension to the length. ... ... ...  yeah right like I'm going to listen to that.
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Mar 16, 2010 14:02
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MATLAB 1988 posted:Harbor Freight has a good electric 1/2 inch impact for under $40 if they are close to you. They are surprisingly durable, Really? I like this... how powerful is it? I can see myself needing one of those at some point. I see an emergency 12V one for $30, and a Chicago brand one for $70... though really, that price is not bad either. Is that the durable one you speak of? CornHolio fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 26, 2010 23:30
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So, does anybody know where I could find a 1/2" drive, 6-point 22mm swivel socket? I need the swivel to be on the socket, I don't have the room for an adapter. I need about .25" more.
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Mar 28, 2010 03:05
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Aceshighxxx posted:http://www.stanleyproto.com/default...ket+%2D+6+Point That looks like what I need, but where can I get that? It doesn't look like that one's available online.
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Mar 28, 2010 04:14
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I picked this set up at HF for like $14. The single wrench I needed at Sears was $16. Hopefully it does the trick, if not, I'll have to get that proto tool and special-order it.  I need these anyway though, my biggest metric wrench was a 14mm previously.  edit: I also use the standard Craftsman jackstands. Work just fine for me, always have. I used to have four, but then my father-in-law stole two of them when they left for Texas, now I only have two. But they work fine!
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Mar 29, 2010 00:22
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havelock posted:I needed a 20mm for the top of my M3s front strut and that same set got my hopes up and then dashed them. Did it break or just not work some other way?
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Mar 29, 2010 00:45
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havelock posted:There isn't a 20mm in that set. I think it goes 18/19 and then 22/23 Oh OK I should be good then since I need a 22mm and it came with a 20/22. Or maybe it was a 22/24. I dunno, either way, I just hope I have enough room for it.
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Mar 30, 2010 02:17
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Rhyno posted:I...I love your new custom title. I like it better than his previous one, that's for sure.
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Apr 6, 2010 19:51
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Crosspost from the BMW thread: Well, I was finally going to replace my diff fluid last night, only to find out my 14mm hex socket is *way* too long to fit between the spare tire well and the fill plug. Anybody know where I can get a cheap 14mm allen key? I know Sears has one, but it's like $18 just for the one. I didn't see anything on Harbor Freight's website.
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May 20, 2010 13:46
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PBCrunch posted:I bought a set of allen (hexagon) "sockets" at HF. It included 14mm, which was the size I needed to separate the spindle from the backing plate on my 1995 Lexus SC400. I bought a set at autozone that were this, but the problem is for whatever reason they're like three inches long. I can't get the socket itself where I need to, let alone the socket and a ratchet. I'd love to grind it down but I don't have the means.
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May 20, 2010 17:16
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I'm almost certain Wire Design has these as we use AMP/TYCP connectors regularly and we buy harnesses from them. They're local to us, but might be worth a shot if you have trouble finding them elsewhere. Also, does Harbor Freight sell automotive ramps? My Rhino Ramps are starting to crack pretty badly and I don't really want to DIE so I think I'd better replace them.
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May 21, 2010 12:49
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eddiewalker posted:Rhinos have treated me a lot better than cheap metal ramps, at least. The metal ones tend to slide on the garage floor. My Rhino ramps slide all over garage floors. I usually only use them outside. I think I'd prefer metal ones for my new set, unless they're significantly more expensive.
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May 21, 2010 16:03
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Picked up those Walmart ramps. Worked pretty good. They were about $40.
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May 22, 2010 23:17
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CornHolio posted:Crosspost from the BMW thread: Followup:  Harbor Freight 1/2 drive serp belt tool (which luckily I had lying around) and a sawed-off 14mm allen. Worked like a charm.
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May 25, 2010 00:30
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Alright. I need a cheap drill. I don't own one. I'm sick of borrowing my dad's 50-year old one (as awesome as it is). The main reason I plan on getting one is so I can use my 3M restoration kit. According to the instructions, I need a drill capable of 1200-1600 RPM. Looking at the cordless ones at Harbor Freight, it seems like to get that kind of speed I need corded. So: Does it really need to spin at that speed? If so, I'll probably get this. Otherwise I suppose I'll get this. (I own one of these but it's only capable of 180 rpm and I'm assuming is totally not suited to the job.) CornHolio fucked around with this message at 00:07 on May 29, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 00:02
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angryhampster posted:You could just wet sand and then follow up with rubbing compound. Did it on my old Jeep without a drill. Turned out great. I've already got the kit (had it for awhile actually, I'm a lazy motherfucker). I've seen awesome results from other people using it.
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May 29, 2010 15:02
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CornHolio posted:Alright. I need a cheap drill. I don't own one. I'm sick of borrowing my dad's 50-year old one (as awesome as it is). Anybody have an answer to this?
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May 30, 2010 00:13
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grover posted:Regarding those two particular drills for other future projects... I wouldn't expect much out of them. The $20 cordless has a clutch that will prevent you from overdriving screws, which is nice. The corded will probably work well as a light-duty drill, but will not be so great at driving screws. (You've got your cordless screwdriver for that, I suppose.) Neither will be up to the task of boring large holes through hardwood, powering hole saws, etc. Keyless chucks like both have are great for light duty. For $15-20, they're not exactly long-term investments; you might as well treat them as throwaways. If it works for you after this project, great, if not, eh. I've gotten my money's worth out of a great many throwaway power tools like this. drat I was afraid of that. On the plus side I don't really have a lot of heavy-duty things to drill through. I think I'll pick up the cordless drill and hope for the best.
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May 30, 2010 04:10
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grover posted:Yeah, I should have prewarned that, too. Consider that $15 drill a disposable tool that MIGHT last you this one project, but is not an investment. Something an apartment dweller who needs to hang a shelf might buy. The battery will die frustratingly quickly on more involved projects, and it won't have the torque for bigger screws; it's not a good drill to use with that buffing kit- get a corded drill. $30 will buy you a decent corded drill that will serve you for years. Man, that sucks. What $30 corded drill would you recommend?
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May 31, 2010 00:09
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grover posted:If ALL you want to do is this headlight job, that $15 corded drill you linked would be fine. You could use it for light projects, and can always step up to something better if you have some new project and it's just not up to the task. I've done this before, too; $15 angle grinder, for instance- bought it for one project, finished it, and it's got some issues but still grinds, so I'm still using it Hmm. Thing is, I don't really need a heavy-duty drill right now. I just don't want to get something that's complete crap. If the $20 cordless one is crap I suppose I might get the $15 one. But, if there was a much better quality $30 one that would last significantly longer I'd definitely go that route. I don't want to spend much more than that, though. I won't use it enough yet to justify it.
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May 31, 2010 00:56
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oxbrain posted:http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...75274154&sr=8-1 I think that I like this quite a bit. I'm glad you posted this, I might get this... Black88GTA posted:used tool place ...Unless you tell me more about these used tool places. Seriously, I don't think I've ever seen one around here. Do standard pawn shops have tools?
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May 31, 2010 03:58
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Alright. Slight change of plans. I can get any of the following drills for free using some reward points I've accumulated. Black and Decker cordless Kawasaki corded Black and Decker corded Denali cordless hammer drill without battery (I could pick up a battery and charger too I think) I'm partial to the Kawasaki just because it'll use up almost all of my points (I'm trying to get rid of them). Thoughts? Suggestions? CornHolio fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 31, 2010 |
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May 31, 2010 17:29
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Rhyno posted:That Kawasaki clearly has a cord. And the CH one will depend on how good your compressor setup is. do'h. I knew it had a cord. Not sure why I put cordless. And I took the CH one off, I didn't look close enough at it.
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May 31, 2010 18:17
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grover posted:
Would this work? The real long one is basically a flat piece of steel with a 3/8" nub on the one end. The shorter one is 1/2" drive. Came in handy for me. 
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Jun 2, 2010 00:01
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I had a Harbor Freight gift card, and had to buy some cheap electrical items when I came across this amp clamp. The price was $10 and I've always wanted an amp clamp. We used Flukes at my previous job and they were awesome (though expensive). However, upon reading the manual, it seems it's just a glorified multimeter. The clamp portion can apparently only measure AC voltage, which isn't what I want it for (automotive purposes). Do only the more expensive clamps measure DC? (Yeah I know not to expect much from Harbor Freight, but it's not exactly something I would use often. Still, I knew it was too good of a price to be a real amp clamp) CornHolio fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jun 15, 2011 |
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Jun 15, 2011 15:29
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I used up my gift card at Harbor Freight yesterday and got one of their new Pittsburg Pro 3/8" ratchets. I loving love the feel of this thing, and it feels much higher quality than my craftsman ratchet (though that one's a bit longer). I'm not used to their stuff feeling like such high quality... does anybody else have any real-life experience with these?
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Jul 31, 2011 15:02
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mod sassinator posted:Oh man, I wish I could go to Harbor Freight for the first time again. It's like stepping in to Toys R Us for the first time. I have to be real careful when I'm in there. Seriously, it's glorious. I could spend thousands.
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Nov 19, 2011 21:37
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