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devnull420 posted:Also, is there a good way to get a new bolt to stick back in? My ghetto fabulous plan is to get the bolt out, stick a new bolt through the gate into the hole left in the concrete wall, and then fill it in with pieces of broken concrete (have a bunch of it lying around) and concrete cement. I don't really have a great selection of tools (just the minimum I need to work on my car and various assorted others) so I'm trying to make do with what I got, no way to stick a new bolt into concrete (that I know of at least). Speaking of which, use epoxy to get the new bolt to stick in the old hole They're probably with the hurricane straps in the big box, as they're common to tie houses to foundations.
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# ¿ Jun 1, 2008 17:23 |
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2024 02:53 |
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Back when I was driving my 15 year old camaro, I'd never go anywhere without a full toolset; english and metric sockets, set of craftsmen ratchet wrenches, pliers, adjustable wrench, channel locks, a set of screwdrivers, fix-a-flat, tire plug kit, air pump, and every kind of fluid the car could possibly leak.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2008 23:50 |
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Actually, whenever I need hand tools, Lowes is my first stop now. Also, $1 tape measures work just as well as $10 tape measures. grover fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Sep 7, 2008 |
# ¿ Sep 7, 2008 01:03 |
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FireTora posted:A friendly tip from me. If you ever need a valve spring compressor that isn't this style.
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# ¿ Oct 26, 2008 21:57 |
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The big question is: how will you use it? Your little one is weak, but can plug into any outlet. The 240V one is a better, more powerful unit, but restricted to 240V outlets. It'll also make the lights in your house dim a little whenever it kicks on, heh.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2008 00:20 |
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That technology was originally developed for beer lines, and has been adapted all over the place. We used a similar product for air-blown fiber optic cabling; it was rated up to 200psi and holds incredibly firm. The fiber optic stuff was all ridiculously expensive, but there's really no reason it shouldn't be dirt cheap. And man, it's works great and it's sooo easy.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2008 23:10 |
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ease posted:Not to derail, but airblown FO ?? Is that kinda like how a electrician will suck his pull line through conduit with a vacuum? The advantage is in flexibility, since places are constantly changing configuration, and this really cuts down on the labor associated with fiber optic installation. Especially with very long runs (1000'+) in buildings, which tend to have a high failure rate of conventional cable due to rough handling. http://www.blolite.net/ http://www.futureflex.com/ grover fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Oct 28, 2008 |
# ¿ Oct 28, 2008 02:51 |
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Jorsh posted:this is pretty "duhhh" poo poo but I've got plenty of spares, too. I mean, at $5 a set, I've got a set in every car, a set in the workshop, and one in my desk at work. grover fucked around with this message at 11:44 on Dec 22, 2008 |
# ¿ Dec 22, 2008 11:16 |
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:WD40. This is what WD40 (water displacement) is actually supposed to do.
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2008 22:39 |
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I've got in my hand a 1lb 3oz (spray-paint can-sized) bottle of CEC "Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner" with graphics of an alternator and starter motor on the front. I believe it's mostly tetracloroethylene. It works great, but dissolves plastic- not to the point where it melts through or destroys parts, but it'll ruin a laptop screen (I'm pissed at myself for this one, but at least the keyboard works, heh), and will leave a visible mark on plastic components when it dries.
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2008 23:30 |
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It's called a flow switch, and yes, they're common
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2009 01:09 |
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I found a ratchet strap on the road the other day, but apparently a truck had found it first. Was twisted well beyond working order. I never find anything cool like a fluke Also, I *wanted* to swing by harbor freight today when we were in the area to pick up an HDTV, but we couldn't find it! Google maps has failed me utterly, it's sad.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2009 23:14 |
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RealKyleH posted:
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2009 15:11 |
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I've got the same question, pretty much. My camaro started making some godawful noises and started smoking so badly last night driving home from the airport, I honestly thought it was on fire, and stopped the car to check! Turns out my pinion seal is pretty much gone. Long story short, there's a 200lb nut on there I need to take off. I'm looking at it as an excuse to buy that impact wrench I've been wanting for a while but couldn't justify. Can you recommend me a good (but affordable) impact wrench? I don't have a compressor, so electric is preferred to save me the cost of a compressor.
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2009 23:47 |
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kimbo305 posted:It's just that when you're working on the car on stage or at the service area, you wanna work as fast as you can. If I were to get a flat, I wouldn't want to be stuck using a lug wrench to change the wheel. Surely this tool exists? The team I worked for had something like I'm describing.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2009 04:00 |
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I got a metal rail for $2 at Big Lots a couple years ago. Came with a full set of sockets, too I keep that one at work with a similarly cheap socket; they way I'm not so upset if someone "borrows" it and forgets to return it. (I lose more tools that way!)
grover fucked around with this message at 17:31 on May 2, 2009 |
# ¿ May 2, 2009 17:29 |
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Just Another XY posted:This is really novice but – I purchased a cheap air compressor from Sears for $24.95, and the drat thing poo poo it self after three tire inflations. Somebody recommend me something that'll work for more than a day.
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# ¿ Oct 19, 2009 11:39 |
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^^ LOL!CornHolio posted:Needless to say, they don't make them like they used to.
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2009 18:39 |
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I need to fix one of my son's toys, but it's got these asinine triange-socket screws. Where can I find a screwdriver for removing them? I've got a full set of odd screwdriver bits, but no triangles. I'm thinking dollar tree and a grinder would be easiest.
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2009 16:09 |
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Wagonburner posted:I got some of those out with just a perfect-sized flathead, was a little pocket-clip give-away kind with some company's name on it. Good news is: I got it fixed! Will me a much happier christmas getting a working toy as oppose to a broken one. Thanks for the help, guys. grover fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Dec 5, 2009 |
# ¿ Dec 5, 2009 20:58 |
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I won a cordless impact wrench as a door prize last night.
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# ¿ Dec 6, 2009 23:26 |
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Sexual Lorax posted:Please let me know your impression of it. I'm in the market for a 1/2" cordless impact, and $100 seems like a really good price for tool, charger, and two batteries. Edit: I take that back, I need to change the brake pads on my wife's 4Runner, but we were unable to loosen the bolts, even after lowering the jack and dropping the weight of the truck on the ratchet handle. This will be a PERFECT test for it. I'll post back the the results, but it may be a few days until I get a chance to do it. grover fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Dec 7, 2009 |
# ¿ Dec 7, 2009 03:52 |
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Uthor posted:Christmas tool question edition:
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2009 02:46 |
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Speaking of wrenches...
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2009 02:17 |
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ab0z posted:What is this?
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2009 11:52 |
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I scored a new torque wrench for christmas! Santa bring anyone else new tools?
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# ¿ Dec 26, 2009 16:46 |
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Kynetx posted:Vermont American any good? I use their taps a fair amount. I've literally melted Vermont American masonry bits. And I mean the first 1/8" of the bit turned into a ball. I've gotta find a picture of that... Edit: Found it. The carbide tip would snap off while drilling, and the soft steel bit would just slag itself. And no, I didn't take them up on their lifetime replacement policy. grover fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Jan 22, 2010 |
# ¿ Jan 22, 2010 16:14 |
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We just unwrapped a brand new 1/2" craftsman ratchet last week, and the loving thing was broken out of the box. I've seen them break before, but never broken out of the box. Their quality control has absolutely gone to poo poo, but they're still priced like it's a premium brand. At least the generics are priced like generics.
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2010 19:24 |
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Sawzall is like duct tape in reverse, it's perhaps the most awesome power tool in existence.
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2010 00:10 |
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Splizwarf posted:If I had ratchets with no lifetime guarantee I wouldn't be beating on them. Also, I'd still make sure I had some I could beat on. Sometimes, a hammer and a ratchet go places that a wrench, a breaker bar, and an impact gun just can't go. Maybe if I had a wrench that I could mount deepwall sockets on, that turned... hmm. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I've only had one fail, and it was one a friend of mine found in the trunk of a junked car, and already broken when I got it. I unfortunately didn't realize it until my car was on the lift, oil drained, filter off... and only then discovered the ratchet was unable to tighten. So, moral of the story is to always carry a spare? grover fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Apr 6, 2010 |
# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 22:38 |
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RealKyleH posted:There's a difference in "meeting the spec" and being qualified to it. Any idea what the spec number on the package was (e.g. MIL-DTL-22520 or AS22520 for hand crimping tools)? I can often lookup what companies are qualified to certain products. MIL-SPEC isn't necessarily any better than commercial; many are simply out-of-date. Others are overbuilt for unique military requirements; for instance ceramic and stainless steel fiber optic connectors designed to withstand the shock of torpedo hits that would shear off plastic connectors. Mixing the two has bad consequences- if you try to use a MIL-SPEC fiber optic connector on a piece of commercial-grade equipment, the stronger spring tension on the MIL-SPEC connector can break the plastic plug. grover fucked around with this message at 10:59 on Apr 23, 2010 |
# ¿ Apr 23, 2010 09:22 |
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PBCrunch posted:There is a lot of talk about electrical connectors here so I will ask a question.
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2010 18:12 |
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Wagonburner posted:I figure this is as good a place as any to ask.
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# ¿ May 14, 2010 21:53 |
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Aeka 2.0 posted:screwdrivers are also the tool that disappears the most. I don't know how many I've bought (20+) but I can only account for about 5 in my toolbox right now.
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# ¿ May 28, 2010 22:50 |
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CornHolio posted:Anybody have an answer to this? I'd get a corded drill for this project. Otherwise, you're going to be working for 5 minutes and then waiting 4 hours for the battery to charge. Regarding those two particular drills for other future projects... I wouldn't expect much out of them. The $20 cordless has a clutch that will prevent you from overdriving screws, which is nice. The corded will probably work well as a light-duty drill, but will not be so great at driving screws. (You've got your cordless screwdriver for that, I suppose.) Neither will be up to the task of boring large holes through hardwood, powering hole saws, etc. Keyless chucks like both have are great for light duty. For $15-20, they're not exactly long-term investments; you might as well treat them as throwaways. If it works for you after this project, great, if not, eh. I've gotten my money's worth out of a great many throwaway power tools like this. grover fucked around with this message at 01:38 on May 30, 2010 |
# ¿ May 30, 2010 01:29 |
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CornHolio posted:Otherwise I suppose I'll get this. http://www.harborfreight.com/retail-flyer
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# ¿ May 30, 2010 14:46 |
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Yeah, I should have prewarned that, too. Consider that $15 drill a disposable tool that MIGHT last you this one project, but is not an investment. Something an apartment dweller who needs to hang a shelf might buy. The battery will die frustratingly quickly on more involved projects, and it won't have the torque for bigger screws; it's not a good drill to use with that buffing kit- get a corded drill. $30 will buy you a decent corded drill that will serve you for years. I should have known better than to go to Harbor Freight for a $25 set of metric flex ratcheting wrenches. Ended blowing $173 this morning. Ah well, I'm at least now the proud new owner of SAE and metric deep-sockets, a brake bleeder and a pressure washer. And a bunch of other random crap. Ironically, I ran into one of my buddys at Advanced Auto on the way home - buying brake fluid to bleed his brakes today. So, might get used already. Speaking of which: grover fucked around with this message at 16:43 on May 30, 2010 |
# ¿ May 30, 2010 16:30 |
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oxbrain posted:I hope you enjoy hand cramps and squishy brakes.
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# ¿ May 30, 2010 18:05 |
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:You have to pump the poo poo out of that thing to get any amount of fluid. And if you don't have a good fit on your bleeder screw, you get a lot of little air bubbles. I don't think it's worth it unless you don't have friends and can't get speed bleeders. For anyone following my HG repair: I got the driver's side exhaust manifold off with my new favorite tool. Got a stubborn bolt on the EGR valve slowing me down on the passenger side, though. In the meantime, I'm PB Blasting the crap out of everything. Edit2: and all the driver's side head bolts. All but one stinking bracket bolt I somehow missed, and just when I started removing it, it started to rain and I had to pack up quick because the last thing I need is rainwater in my block. grover fucked around with this message at 01:13 on May 31, 2010 |
# ¿ May 30, 2010 21:28 |
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2024 02:53 |
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CornHolio posted:Man, that sucks. What $30 corded drill would you recommend? If ALL you want to do is this headlight job, that $15 corded drill you linked would be fine. You could use it for light projects, and can always step up to something better if you have some new project and it's just not up to the task. I've done this before, too; $15 angle grinder, for instance- bought it for one project, finished it, and it's got some issues but still grinds, so I'm still using it grover fucked around with this message at 01:23 on May 31, 2010 |
# ¿ May 31, 2010 01:18 |