Tools! - Crimpin ain't easy but it is necessary.

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Tools! - Crimpin ain't easy but it is necessary.

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

I need a thin ratchet. One that isn't 1/2"+ thick at the head. Anyone make such a beast? I can grind about 1/8" off the socket to make up for some of the thickness, but it's still not enough. I need it because of this $^$#%@##!%$^@ bolt:

My thumb is coming from the only accessible area; there is no access in any other direction to get anything resembling enough torque to break the bolt loose, so open-end wrenches just aren't working. I need to get something that will go up and over the exhaust manifold to allow me leverage, yet not foul the exhaust pipe. gently caress GM, btw. gently caress GM in the rear end until they bleed to death.

Anyone know of any super-thin 3/8" ratchets or breaker bars?

grover fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jun 2, 2010

# ¿ Jun 2, 2010 00:24

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 18:07

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

CornHolio posted:

Would this work? The real long one is basically a flat piece of steel with a 3/8" nub on the one end. The shorter one is 1/2" drive. Came in handy for me.

Wow, that's perfect! I'll pick one up tomorrow

Thin enough that'll it'll save me the trouble of grinding, too.

Black88GTA: My 1/4" craftsman ratchet is about 1/8" thinner than my 3/8, but I don't have a 1/4" 13mm socket, so I haven't been able to try it yet (was my fall-back plan). Frankly, though, given the force I've had to use on some of the other bolts, I'm worried about breaking it.

grover fucked around with this message at 10:44 on Jun 2, 2010

# ¿ Jun 2, 2010 01:19

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Elephanthead posted:

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...51&keycode=0000

Here is a coupon for the belt wrench $9.99.

I'd swear it was showing up online for $9.99 last night, but was $15.99 today. $10 more than it's worth, I think.

And STILL didn't work. The angle of the dangle just didn't quite fit. Close, closest yet, but close just wasn't cutting it. Before I broke out the hammer and anvil to make it fit, I gave it a shot with the crow's foot 13mm that came with the kit and allowed a slightly less impossible angle with my 3/8 ratchet and... WOOHOO!!! broke the motherfucker loose!!!! Managed to work it the rest of the way out with an angled ratchet wrench from an extremely uncomfortable position balanced with my knees on the radiator, chest on a 2x4 spread across the engine bay and forehead on the windshield. And thus ended a 3-day battle with that loving bolt. Did I mention a thunderstorm rolled in and it started raining right as I broke it loose? I wasn't about to stop, though.

Now, I'm all set to shove this bolt up the rear end in a top hat of whatever engineer designed that part of the engine bay. I'm an engineer myself- there's no excuse for bad design like this, not for a bolt that requires such force to break loose.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2010 23:15

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Is there such a thing as a cheap yet decent 240V welder?

# ¿ Jun 11, 2010 21:18

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

sbyers77 posted:

However, I would love to see other people rig up similar experiments and post their results. I have a degree in Mechanical Engineering and I believe this testing method is accurate.

How did you calibrate your weights?

# ¿ Jun 30, 2010 02:03

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

sbyers77 posted:

If it says CAS #811-97-2 it's R134a. So don't feel too bad if a little gets out while servicing your A/C.

Mine says CAS# 68476-85-7, liquified petroleum gas. R-134A is probably better environmentally...

Also, you need a vacuum pump to evacuate the nitrogen fill (and especially any air in the system) before you can inject the refrigerant.

# ¿ Jul 9, 2010 22:46

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

geegee posted:

Has anyone here had experience with Harbor Freight's Chicago Electric Generator Sets? I'm looking for around a 3000/3500 watt machine to run electrical tools around the shop. It would also run a 10500 BTU a/c, refrigerator and a 110V power ring in a small RV.

I looked at some of the usual suspects (Honda, Onan, Kohler, Toro, etc) but Christ, I'm glad I was sitting down when I checked prices! The reviews on HF's pages run the gamut from, "junk, junk, junk" to "GREATEST THING SINCE KANNED BEER" (paraphrasing slightly but still in all caps). Has anyone here had long-term (say several months to a couple of years) experience with these? Yes, they're made in China but are they fit for task?

I picked up a 3550W Briggs & Stratton-based Troy Bilt at Lowes a couple years ago and have been really happy with it as an emergency generator for my house. I think I paid about $400 for it 5 years ago, but can't exactly recall. It would run 3 refrigerators and every light and computer in the house. It we were careful, we could run a coffee pot, microwave or burner on the stove, but only one at a time. Voltage regulation was dependant on load. I never saw it drop below 110V or rise about 125V, but the APC SmartUPS on my computer hated it and would bitch incessantly about it. When I run the stove, we could watch the on/off thermal regulation as the lights dimmed as it kicks on (and multimeter dropped to 110V) then brighten as it turns off and the gen spun back to up 125V.

I don't think you'd have a problem running your shop with a generator this size, but you might find you have to shut off the AC before using a tool. And you may find issues with some of your more powerful tools- they can draw a LOT of current when starting, and the generator may not be able to handle the in-rush.

# ¿ Aug 29, 2010 14:11

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

sbyers77 posted:

I'm sure this will interest someone so I will post it.

This afternoon I decided to test the accuracy of my Harbor Freight 3/8" drive torque wrench. The torque range goes from 5-80 ft-lbs with a stated accuracy of �4%. I clamped a threaded rod coupler (basically a really long nut) into a vice and used a 3/4" socket on the coupler to hold the wrench as close to perpendicular to the floor as possible. After setting the wrench to the desired torque value, I used a small cable and different combinations of free-weights to measure the actual weight and distance values required to click the wrench, which are then used to calculate the measured torque.

The black dotted line is the desired values. Some values have two data points because I used a second weight combination for those settings. EDIT: These numbers are slightly off, see my post below for updated chart.

This is obviously not the most scientific test but it allows you to draw some pretty broad conclusions. Results are adequately linear although about 5% low.

I'd dropped my 1/2" clicky torque wrench and recently it's been binding, so I figured I'd whip up a quick calibration test, too! I used 18lbs 4.6oz worth of weights (verified via pitney bowes postal scale) and clamped the drive directly to my vice. After accounting for the weight of the torque wrench (1.85ft-lbs), it worked out damned near spot-on (<5%) for 20 & 25ft-lbs, which is unfortunately about all I have verifiable weights for. Doesn't mean 100ft-lbs on the wrench is actually 100ft-lbs, but it's probably at least as good as my well calibrated arm, and at least I'm confident the wrench isn't totally foobarred.

I can't recall the brand, but it's a really cheap one I got for Christmas one year. Might have been Northern Tool? Only marking on the wrench is that it was made in Taiwan.

# ¿ Oct 1, 2010 02:55

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

sbyers77 posted:

Hey, that's pretty cool. I was hoping someone else would try this so I could see their results. I don't use my torque wrenches too often, but once I get some good use out of them I plan on redoing these experiments to see if the values have drifted at all or if they stay consistent.

I'm sad. While torquing down the control arm bolt (just put a new sway bar on and wanted to properly torque everything), I cracked my 19mm socket. Was my first socket set, and still my favorite "go to" set. Was real cheap (literally $5 for the set) taiwanese poo poo, but had a ratchet and full metric and SAE sockets up to 21mm. I've beat on them to hell and back over the last 12 years, wailing on the ratchet with my biggest framing hammer and often full-force on crowbars, never caring because it was only $5 and there's plenty more where they came from... Then this one finally gave up the ghost on a mere 119ft-lbs bolt.

At least it didn't spall and take my eye out or anything, just crack in two places.

# ¿ Oct 1, 2010 23:02

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Splizwarf posted:

What about installing a petcock oil pan plug replacement? They make em with a nipple so you can attach hose, too.

e: like this:

From here.

or this:

From here.

I've had Fram suredrains on my Camaro and 4Runner for probably about 6 years, and they're great. Oil changes are even more trivial than before.

The valve restricts flow, so the oil has to be hot to flow well, or else it just dribbles out. The oil only flows in the last 1/4 turn or so ( so it's easy to get everything ready without acrobatics), and it's tool-less, all just finger tight knurled fittings. I drained my oil into milk jugs a couple times (no clean-up) but lately, I just ditch the orange hose and just use my normal oil pan since I need it for the filter anyhow.

grover fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Oct 11, 2010

# ¿ Oct 11, 2010 14:20

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Skyssx posted:

I looked through Kennedy's catalog and found a 29" roller and two different chests that I like. I googled to find prices, and the pair comes out at $1100-$1200 with ball bearing slides. Are Kennedy boxes good anymore, or should I just go get some Craftsman boxes during the post Christmas sale?

No matter how awesome a toolbox may be, is it really worth paying that much more for it than for something from harbor freight or home depot that may rattle and squeak a bit, but organize your tools just as well?

Are they really that nice?

grover fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Oct 30, 2010

# ¿ Oct 30, 2010 14:54

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Sockington posted:

When it comes to supporting the weight of the tools, quality becomes important.

Cheap boxes that slide like poo poo when empty loving suck when full. *slide*bind*slide*bind*

I've been pretty happy with my dirt-cheap toolbox, with no binding or anything, despite cramming it full of tools because I have way more tools than toolbox. I can see how a lovely toolbox would turn you off cheap stuff pretty quickly, I hope my luck holds out on this one...

# ¿ Oct 30, 2010 20:05

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

tesko.pk posted:

For toolboxes there's 4 tiers. First is the cheaper, utilitarian makes ie. found out of Sears and Home Depot (Say $250-$500 for roller & chest). Then you have Kennedy (Around $1100-$1500 for roller & chest), then the third is closer to $2000-$4000 for roller & chest depending on manufacturer. Then with the last tier you have the really ridiculously priced models that creep over and above 5-figures.

If the big advantage of the Kennedy-quality boxes over the cheap ones is they don't bind and last a long time... and that's really the only thing "wrong" with the cheap ones... what are you getting for $10k for the rolls royce boxes that you aren't getting for $1500 in a Kennedy?

# ¿ Nov 2, 2010 10:33

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

I stumbled into some 33% & 40%-off online coupons for Advance Auto Parts if anyone's interested.

# ¿ Nov 4, 2010 10:36

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

akeidolon posted:

Absolutely. It's worth it to be able to get to your tools easily instead of fight a lovely slide mechanism. And not have to worry about caving in the bottom of a drawer if you drop a heavy tool on it. And not have the box sound like an 80's GM product at highway speed when you roll it across the garage.

With so few still on the road, it may literally be an 80s GM product in there.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2010 23:25

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

In the last 15 minutes I've made use of a sawzall, dremel, chisel, hammer, and great big fuckoff c-clamp to handle some rather delicate automotive repairs. Tools are awesome sometimes.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2010 02:31

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

What's the consensus on low-end Harbor Freight compressors for small tasks (like pumping up tires) and occasional air tool use?

# ¿ Nov 24, 2010 19:46

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

oxbrain posted:

I've had one of these for several years. It's slow and noisy, but it's the best compressor of that size that I've owned. Of course, I only use it to fill bicycle tires.

It uses a japanese style quick disconnect. McMaster Carr sells couplings with NPT threading so you can adapt it to normal fittings. Or just cut the hose it comes with and jam a barbed fitting in there.

One of these days I'm going to make my own tiny little oiled compressor.

I've got emergency compressors like that for both my cars, but that looks far more substantial. Don't leave home without it!

I would like to get some airtools at some point. I borrowed a compressor and nailguns when I built my addition, but I don't actually own anything big enough to use with a nailgun or any other airtool. Once I have a compressor, I figure I might start getting air tools...

# ¿ Nov 24, 2010 21:07

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Splizwarf posted:

I hear this a lot and it bugs me. Danaher makes a million different things, among them several tool lines. Like Unilever, manufacturer of (among many other things) Breyer's, Ben and Jerry's, Ocean Spray, Slim Fast and Turkey Hill ice creams, Danaher manufactures tools aimed at different market segments, and quality is going to depend on what line you're looking at. Matco, like Ben and Jerry's, is probably going to have higher production standards than Craftsman, or Turkey Hill in this example. Danaher isn't so much making GBS threads them up as treating Craftsman as a bottom-tier brand. Which, given the other brands on their list, is exactly what Craftsman is.

tl;dr: yes they're making Craftsman lovely but it's because Craftsman isn't the same company anymore (hasn't been since 1991) and you're hung up on how the name is the tool.

Little known-fact: Craftsman tools are now made on the same production line as Breyer's ice cream, and with the same machinery. If you lick a new tool, you can often tell what flavor was made the run before.

The reverse is true, too. If you get really lucky, you might find a new socket in your cookies'n'cream!

# ¿ Dec 4, 2010 14:45

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

SNiPER_Magnum posted:

What do you guys use to heat your garages? I am trying to look for some kind of 120V heater that will be good for a 2 car garage, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. Lowes has a lot of space heaters that have a description as vague as "This will heat a room* *fine print results may vary"

I use a $15 electric space heater. Any 1500W heater will put out 1500W (1800W is the max legally allowed from a 15A receptacle) and heat your garage pretty much the same amount. They're very expensive to run for any length of time, though, so it's fine for keeping you warm while you're working, but not really to heat it 24/7.

The best I've seen for garage work are big kerosene heaters which can really pump out some heat.

# ¿ Dec 13, 2010 03:06

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

AnomalousBoners posted:

Punch holes in a piece of cardboard with an ink pen or something and put all the bolts in it and then label where they came from. This is both free and fairly effective

Sketches help, too.

# ¿ Dec 18, 2010 17:40

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

InitialDave posted:

Photos, too, now digital cameras are so cheap.

Oh yes, absolutely, especially for figuring out wire harness connections and routing, which are difficult to record in any other way. You can never take too many photos or from enough angles or at enough points during the project.

# ¿ Dec 18, 2010 18:20

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Instead of the big compressor I wanted, I got the cheap 12v car compressor I needed. Ah well, I can always be my own santa...

# ¿ Dec 28, 2010 01:00

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

MonkeyNutZ posted:

I bought a hammer
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3051317&pagenumber=13#post386312973

I have a hammer just like that that my grandfather made from scratch in the 30s. I have a lot of great hand-made tools from him, actually.

# ¿ Dec 31, 2010 22:27

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

A few 99-cent concrete blocks do wonders for adjusting jack height, FYI.

# ¿ Jan 1, 2011 00:31

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

mod sassinator posted:

Isn't there a danger the cinder blocks could fracture and collapse?

There's a danger your jack could fail, too. Nobody should ever be under a car held up by jacks, concrete blocks or not.

Hollow blocks are horribly unsafe for this, especially when laid on their side as people are apt to do, I don't think there's any question of that. Fortunately, solid concrete blocks are readily available and are much stronger for this. I use solid 4" cap blocks when I need a little extra lift height.

grover fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Jan 1, 2011

# ¿ Jan 1, 2011 15:38

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Have you checked your local Autozone and Advance Auto Parts? They have tool loaner programs and may have a specialty tool large enough for you.

# ¿ Jan 7, 2011 01:47

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Splizwarf posted:

I meant the per-day or whatever above the deposit. If there is one.

You use your credit card to pay a deposit that usually the store's replacement cost of the tool if you fail to return it. Once you return it, you get a full refund. It costs you $0 to rent.

# ¿ Mar 6, 2011 04:27

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Are there any torque wrenches that can be used with an impact wrench?

# ¿ Apr 1, 2011 15:38

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Oh, that's awesome- such a simple yet brilliant concept, I always just assumed they were just extensions that wouldn't break if you used them with an impact wrench. Definitely going to have to pick one up for my track box, thanks guys

Quick question: my lugs require 130NM/96ft-lb of torque, which is in between standard torque sticks. How close does this really need to be to be safe? I'm thinking use the 90 and then tighten up with my torque wrench. I'd like to be able to skip the extra torque wrench step, though.

grover fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Apr 1, 2011

# ¿ Apr 1, 2011 17:21

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Gel cell batteries get sulfate build-up on the plates if they sit below 12.5V. It will dissolve back into the solution when voltage raises back up and isn't an issue for normal battery cycles, but sulfate is an insulator and if it builds up too long and completely coats the plate, it will kill a battery dead. 6 months is about max shelf-life before self-discharge drops the voltage too low and it sulfates over; less if stored at temps above 77F or if discharged before storage. How long were yours sitting around?

grover fucked around with this message at 23:06 on May 16, 2011

# ¿ May 16, 2011 23:03

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Anyone used those endoscopes HF sells? Are they any good?

Edit: these
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-67979.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-resolution-digital-inspection-camera-with-recorder-67980.html

Not something I need every day or for anything specific, but it's something I've wished for several times and not had, and seemed like a nice tool for the toolbag. Would go into the bag with the thermal imager and power quality analyzer. Speaking of which, any feedback on these two, or any other nice-to-have equipment? I wouldn't mind having something I can interface with modern Caterpillar and Cummins diesel engines, too...

grover fucked around with this message at 17:45 on May 27, 2011

# ¿ May 27, 2011 03:16

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

meatpimp posted:

I really want a flir, though. God drat I'd be checking the temperature signatures of everything I come in contact with.

I really want a Fluke Ti25, but am having trouble justifying the $5000 price tag; the FLIR i7 I can justify simply because at $2000, that's pretty much as cheap as they come, and I need a thermal imager to do my job. The IR thermometer on my multimeter just isn't cutting it. Regardless, I think this FLIR i7 is going to "accidentally" find its way out of my work bag and into the track bag from time-to-time... I'd be royally hosed if someone ran it over, though.

Countdown to thermal imaging converging into cell phone cameras...

grover fucked around with this message at 20:25 on May 27, 2011

# ¿ May 27, 2011 20:20

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

R-Type posted:

I own #67980. It works drat well and let me know every loving valve was bent in my Lightning when the crank broke.

Edit,

Found your FLIR TIS for almost a grand less than Gouger.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Extech-FLIR-i3-Compact-Infrared-Thermal-Imaging-Camera-/130520451019?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e63a007cb

That's a FLIR i3; different model with a little less capability than the i7. (60x60 resolution vice 120x120) For $5k, the Fluke Ti25 has 160x120 and also an optical camera which overlays in the software so you can tell what you're looking at.

I Want To Believe this poo poo will get cheap and common soon, but there's gotta be some valid reason they're charging over $1k for a 0.003 megapixel camera...

Edit: hey, wikipedia to the rescue:

wikipedia posted:

The CCD and CMOS sensors used for visible light cameras are sensitive only to the nonthermal part of the infrared spectrum called near-infrared (NIR). Thermal imaging cameras use specialized focal plane arrays (FPAs) that respond to longer wavelengths (mid- and long-wavelength infrared). The most common types are InSb, InGaAs, HgCdTe and QWIP FPA. The newest technologies use low-cost, uncooled microbolometers as FPA sensors. Their resolution is considerably lower than that of optical cameras, mostly 160x120 or 320x240 pixels, up to 640x512 for the most expensive models. Thermal imaging cameras are much more expensive than their visible-spectrum counterparts, and higher-end models are often export-restricted due to the military uses for this technology. Older bolometers or more sensitive models such as InSb require cryogenic cooling, usually by a miniature Stirling cycle refrigerator or liquid nitrogen.

Guess convergence into cell phone CCDs may take a while longer

grover fucked around with this message at 12:54 on May 28, 2011

# ¿ May 28, 2011 12:49

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Nerobro posted:

So what's wrong with this picture? And yes.. I still have all of my fingers.

My first router table looked JUST like that! Only mine was even smaller, and the whole thing balanced on the upended router. Good god, I can't believe I used that. (I've got a real router table now.)

# ¿ May 28, 2011 12:57

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

pazrs posted:

Can all mitre saws take abrasive metal cut off blades? I have only really seen them on the drop saw type, as in the ones you cant adjust for angle.

On that note, can your average hand held circular saw take metal cut offs?

Yes, you can most likely install a metal blade, but it's not a very good idea on most chop saws as the hot sparks of molten metal are not friendly to plastic. You may be able to shield with aluminum foil, but beware that you're risking your saw. Better to just get a cheap angle grinder with a cutting disk for cutting metal- right tool for the job and all.

You can get blades for circular saws, but the same warnings apply. Also, I ruined my old craftsman circular saw when a masonry blade broke at the hub and the bolt just FUSED to the rotor and resisted all attempts to remove it

Was OK, though, gave me a good excuse to go out and buy a way better laser-aided one!

grover fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jun 2, 2011

# ¿ Jun 2, 2011 00:29

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

meatpimp posted:

That looked like a straight 220 compressor, but here's one that says it will do 7cfm@90psi with 120v: http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/BelAire-2061V-Air-Compressor/p4786.html

Full load current on a 2HP motor is 24 Amps@115V, so you're still not getting away with plugging it into a standard receptacle; if you're putting in a dedicated outlet, you might as well go 220V.

Largest motor you can legally put on a normal cord & plug is 3/4hp. I don't think you'll find a 7cfm 90psi compressor in that size motor range.

grover fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Jun 6, 2011

# ¿ Jun 6, 2011 10:37

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

heat posted:

There are bluetooth OBD-II dongles on ebay that are cheap as poo poo and smartphone apps to pair them with. I've been thinking about picking one up to mess around with.

I've had awesome luck with mine in all of my cars. It's just really cool to be able to watch all the various engine telemetry (rpm, mass-flow, o2 sensors, fuel/air mix, etc.) plotted in real-time. I've even used it for datalogging (along with GPS and accelerometer), though the slow refresh rate makes it not terribly useful for anything more than curiosity.

I'm using Torque on an Android phone, btw.

# ¿ Jun 8, 2011 00:04

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Crossposting from the stupid questions thread because I somehow missed this thread, despite looking for it and it being on the front page.

Does anyone have recommendations for cheap ftlb torque wrenches? I was in at sears, but they didn't have anything cheap that would go to 20 or less, and a big part of why I want one is spark plugs.

Look for a 1/4" or 3/8" drive torque wrench if you want low torque values. Torque wrenches are hard to manufacturer to be accurate outside of certain ranges; the 1/2" you use for torquing head bolts is not likely to be any good below 20ft-lbs. Harbor Freight has a big parking lot sale this weekend, btw.

Not to go all ghetto, but, if you just need a few ft-pounds and only use it very occasionally, you can do the math and use a fish scale and ruler with a ratchet and be about as accurate as a $20 torque wrench.

# ¿ Jun 10, 2011 16:06

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 18:07

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

CornHolio posted:

However, upon reading the manual, it seems it's just a glorified multimeter. The clamp portion can apparently only measure AC voltage, which isn't what I want it for (automotive purposes). Do only the more expensive clamps measure DC?

(Yeah I know not to expect much from Harbor Freight, but it's not exactly something I would use often. Still, I knew it was too good of a price to be a real amp clamp)

That's a damned good price for a clamp-on ammeter, and yes, better ones do measure DC as well. The really good ones even have an oscilloscope built in so you can do detailed analysis of the waveform.

# ¿ Jun 15, 2011 22:15

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