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Sterndotstern posted:It's the optimal home shop jack, but LOOKY WHAT I GOT HERE! If I print this out of a B/W printer and bring it to a store will they honor it?
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2021 19:17 |
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frozenphil posted:You do not buy complicated machines, electronic stuff, or safety equipment from Harbor Freight. Harbor Freight is to be used for simple machines and hand tools only. This is a rule you should follow if you value your time, money, and/or life. The $2.00 multimeters are decent as well. My father got 2 of them one for me one for himself. Both were within 5% when tested against the calibrated lab equipment at his office. Might not be good enough for fancy pants electronics work but it's good enough for automotive work.
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ASSTASTIC posted:Anyone use Harbor Freight's spring compressors before? Any opinions on them? I bought a set of these at the recommendation of this thread. I've used them a few times and they are totally awesome and not scary at all. http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25550-Str...70784886&sr=8-2 It may have been this other one though. I can't find the e-mail from amazon though, check back in the thread. The good one is the one that is a rebranded Craftsman. http://www.amazon.com/CalVan-Tools-...70784886&sr=8-6
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The HF here stocks the mityvac pump. I think I got it for ~$20, works awesome. I need a tap for a 1/2" hole. I think that leaves me at 5/8-11, 9/16-12 for usable sizes. Any recommendation on taps/where to buy them? It doesn't look like sears carries anything that big. FatCow fucked around with this message at 17:54 on May 30, 2010 |
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RealKyleH posted:That doesnt make a lot of sense to me, could you explain a bit more? Also what material? Grainger or MSC are places to buy all kinds of taps. eBay often has USA made taps for cheap. I stripped out the thread on a welded on bung. So I'm pretty limited in how much more material I can drill out to re-thread, hence the ~1/2" requirement. The material being tapped is steel, it's a shock absorber.
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I might have to get one of these clicky type wrenches. Is there any major advantage to them over a bar type? Other then having to watch how your store/transport it? I have a ~30 year old craftsman 1/2" bar type wrench that hasn't led me astray yet.
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EnergizerFellow posted:I'm seeing under $500 for a complete set of 4. Where you shopping at? Seriously. NAPA has a set for ~350. Brake rotors are the same, get the cheapest parts store brand you can get.
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Nordlocks hold the brake calipers on my GTO as well, I'd imagine the G8 uses them too. Looking at them I couldn't figure out how they worked in the time it took me to reassemble and forget about them, that's quite a cleaver design.
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The HF stands are fine. The welds don't look pretty but it's made from thick steel and the shaft is cast, not stamped.
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I've pretty much taken apart a Miata and put it back together with http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...=2&blockType=G2, a torque wrench, hammer and a few larger size wrenches/sockets. My impact wrench is a rubber mallet and the 1/2" wrench.
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Jared592 posted:People Plasti-dipping all kinds of stuff these days: This is getting done to my track car once it gets warm enough to paint outside.
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Anyone know a decent low cost micrometer? Ideally good to a thousandth or two. HF claims theirs are but I'm not sure how good they are. .0001 http://www.harborfreight.com/0-to-1...ometer-895.html .001 http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-set-66512.html FatCow fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Mar 8, 2011 |
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The HF gauge "digital" readout is a analog gauge. I think they mean digital as in standard .001 number vs having to know how to read a mic. That said, it agrees 100% with my feeler gauges.
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They are very popular in the autocross/track crowd as tire trailers.
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pazrs posted:Can all mitre saws take abrasive metal cut off blades? I have only really seen them on the drop saw type, as in the ones you cant adjust for angle. Using a miter saw to cut metal is generally a bad idea. You'll melt housings/light it on fire from the sparks and the speed a miter saw spins at is usually too high for chop saw disks.
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http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...0&blockType=G10
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Looks like a rebranded craftsman. It's going to be loud as gently caress.
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InitialDave posted:gently caress me sideways, how much? Yours for the low price of $stolen.goods
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My father bought 2 of them and tested them against the calibration equipment they have at work, both were within 2%. As with typical Chinese junk quality control is non-existant.
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I've used the Dewalt 18v in the past and just picked one up for myself.
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For cordless drills I'd also look at Hitachi. I have one that I've been using around the house and it works pretty good. Plenty of torque to round off whatever you throw at it and lithium ion battery power so it can do it for a while. I'd say don't get an impact wrench to use as a drill. My Dewalt cordless impact is 2-3x heavier than my cordless drill.
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MrOnBicycle posted:Edit: Stick a rag on top of the spark plug hole, just on the outside not into the cylinder. Give it a couple of pulls to splash the fuel out then put the plug back in.
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They work fine. It's the only way I have to fill my presta valve'd tires. Dedicated bike hand pumps can usually be had with a presta valve.
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I have this one. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...s_tnt=39869:4:0 It's a vice alright.
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Yes, doubly so if you are stick welding.
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malkman posted:much like your house! I'm all for a good Groverhaus burn, but this poo poo is terrible.
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I have that Dewalt impact and it zips lug nuts off nicely. For stuck bolts it usually doesn't do more than a wrench and mallet does.
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Just tell him your brother-in-law is a mechanical engineer and that he said it's BS.
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rcman50166 posted:You hit it on the head. I need to hold the main pulley on a '98 subaru legacy outback to get it off. Could I put a piece of leather down between a chain wrench and pulley to avoid damaging it? The Hayes manual I have shows a chain wrench. Put a breaker bar on the crank nut and a jack handle over the end of the breaker bar. Set the whole contraption against the garage floor on the driver's side and bump the starter. Pull a coil or plug wire or two to make sure the car doesn't start.
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:How do you proceed from there? My guess is 'very carefully'. Jack up the right side till the nut breaks. ![]()
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Arent pits disallowed by building code pretty much everywhere? They have a tendency to fill with poison gas unless they have proper ventilation.
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Either way, for an automotive application crimped connectors are the right tool for the job.
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Sentient Data posted:Side note for the new page, Harbor Freight has a 25% off one item coupon and the 5-drawer 30" tool cart on sale in a few days for $168.84 (can't be stacked) - I wish I wasn't in the middle of a move, though I don't have quite enough tools to justify it yet anyway X% off coupons don't apply to tool carts. YMMV.
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Knowledge is a tool right? What book would be recommended for someone looking to build their first (racecar) motor? Hopefully it would cover topics like overboring and head decking and the concerns you need to have when doing them.
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Debating grabbing one of those to throw in the truck for trackside repairs. I'm trying to figure out how many things 1. I would need to repair at the track to continue my weekend and 2. How may of those things I'd trust after welding them up with a HF MIG.
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That and questionable benefit. I'd like to see him do it on an injector that was broken to begin with.
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That relies on the assumption that the wrench grabs 180* appart. I'm not sure that is true for that style of wrench, the one I have for my spring perches isn't quite 180.
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Marauder Stig posted:What is your opinion on beam-style torque wrenches like this? http://www.acehardware.com/product/...la=pla_18611042 They work fine. I've been using one for years. Lifetime warranty as well.
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Tap the side of the brake fluid reservoir in case the float got stuck.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2021 19:17 |
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For around the house? A cheap poo poo HF one will work just fine. As a side note, my father works in manufacturing and every precision HF tool he has purchased was nearly dead on when compared to the calibrated tools in their lab. I still better brands though.
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