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Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


Could use some suggestions on a few things:

1. Power grease gun, I really dont want to drop megabucks on the Milwaukee one, looking to pay $75-100-ish for one. My CJ-7 has about a dozen zerks on the front end alone, not to mention driveshafts, hub fittings that i tapped in etc.

2. Swivel impact sockets, Seems like they're all snap-on or mac money, didnt see much out of SK or craftsman for these.

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Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


thebigcow posted:

I think you're going to have to double your budget or stick to manual. I got my dad an 18v Lincoln for the farm a few years back and its still going strong


any thoughts on a high quality manual one then? something that's easy to pump a decent amount of grease would be lovely.
when i mentioned a bunch of zerks, this is what i'm up against:

Ball joints,
Tie rods,
Drag Link
Clutch Linkage

Front DS slip
Rear DS cardan joint (4 zerks)
rear DS slip
Rear U-joint
Rear bumper tire carrier.

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


I found something that's basically the best carb/throttle body/brake cleaner/degreaser out there.
Berkblie 2+2 gum cutter.

A couple of years back the guys at my local parts store noticed me buying a lot of brake cleaner and turned me on to it. Stuff is about as vile as brake cleaner but works quite a bit better.

Degreases basically anything, not exactly safe for paint or plastics, but i buy it by the case and it's worth it.

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Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


I have the stubby M12 and the big nasty 1/2 M18 high torque.
I named the little M12 "Little nasty" and the M18 "big nasty"

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


Bajaha posted:

How do you like the combo? I've been eyeing picking those two up in 3/8" and 1/2" respectively as well a 3/8 m12 fuel ratchet. Seems to me like it would be a good bit of kit to invest in for making jobs easier in the garage.

It's a good combo for working on my fleet ('13 Silverado 2500HD, '84 CJ7 and '09 Vibe). Anywhere that i need more torque than the stubby typically fits the bigger gun.

I also find myself using the stubby to zip on/off bolts where i'd use the power ratchet. (diff cover was a recent victim) and with 200 ft lb, i'll run in lug nuts with it and then follow up with the torque wrench to spec. Taking lugs off i go for big nasty which doesn't even break a sweat doing it.

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


Colostomy Bag posted:

I always thought the Honda "Jesus bolt" was the acid test.

i zipped one off on a friends car as well as some well rusted ball joint nuts with an impact socket and extension. the high torque did it with a minimum of complaining.

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


boxen posted:

I took lugs off a new-to-me car once with my own high torque Milwaukee, and it turns out whoever put them on before crossthreaded one of them all to hell. I thought it came off a LITTLE slower than the others, but didn't really notice until I picked up the lugs off the floor and one of them burned me. I looked at the stud and yeah, it was mighty fuckered. Would not have been a good time getting that off with a breaker bar, big nasty didn't even care.

I did put big nasty on it's knees a couple of times but that actually took effort. even removing the stock trailer hitch on my '13 silverado was a non-issue. (installed a torklift superhitch)

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


I'm looking to track down the tools/know how to be able to crimp my own stainless braided hoses (think brake hoses, fuel lines etc). Any thoughts?

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Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003


Elviscat posted:

I would recommend just using your local hydraulic shop, there's some cheap hydraulic swaging tools out there, but I wouldn't trust them, and for the real-deal big hydraulic crimpers you're looking at $$$$$.

The process is pretty easy though, the fitting slides up in the hose, you slide your swaging sleeve over the top, then crimp it in place. You can also use something like this they only work on the exact hose they're designed for, and they're not cheap.

Thanks, that explains a lot. and this is not something i'd cheap out on (probably would go mid-range)

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