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Look in the Yellow Pages and see if there are industrial tool suppliers in your area. Failing that, there may be a Grainger near you. I've used the Craftsman bolt extractors and taps so far. They have both received light use, but I have cut new threads in steel without a problem. I'll be starting to tap alot more threads shortly here, so I'm interested in some good brands to look for, myself. Whatever you do, get yourself some good cutting oil! Edit: another thread cutting tip, back the tap/die a 1/4 turn every so often to break those chips loose. That will help keep it from getting stuck, breaking, and ruining your day. Also, never force a tap or die. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Feb 3, 2010 |
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Feb 3, 2010 18:39
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Speaking of heli-coils... I started buying the "perma-coil" kits. I think the taps and tools in the kits are better, however they are more expensive too. The coils themselves are the same as far as I can tell, both basically stainless steel wire, with the same shape tang.
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Feb 3, 2010 18:52
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ab0z posted:my policy is to buy the tool the first time I need it and then I'll just conveniently have it next time. Whenever you undertake any job, automotive or not, purchasing necessary tooling has to be calculated in the cost. To do good work, you need the right tools. Besides... think about all the money you save on labor. Many times when doing "favors" for friends that may require a tool I don't have, unless it's something very expensive, I will have the person buy the tool, and keep it for myself as a Thank You gift for my services.
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Feb 5, 2010 00:34
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ab0z posted:There's an alignment machine on the local CL for $500, "needs to be calibrated". Sooo tempted...
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Feb 5, 2010 07:08
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ab0z posted:I assume it's possible to turn rotors on a normal lathe in some way? If you can fit the rotor/drum on the lathe, it'll turn it. You'll just need various faceplates and stuff to adapt the rotors to the spindle. You wouldn't use a chuck for that. Since it does involve machining a large diameter piece of cast iron, you'll want the baddest, biggest, beefiest lathe you can get to cut down on chatter. If you are very ambitious, you can always build your own (Using old engine blocks as the main building component): http://opensourcemachine.org AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Feb 5, 2010 |
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Feb 5, 2010 15:38
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I have a habit of abusing my brakes and warping rotors, so I keep a spare set of rotors. I will have the set sitting off the car machined before I do the next brake job. That way, I always have perfect rotors to install, without having to worry about transportation to and from the machine shop.
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Feb 5, 2010 16:34
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I'm not sure how many of you AI guys pop your head in DIY, so in the guise of thinking you might find this interesting, allow me to pimp the thread about my new (old) lathe.
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Feb 6, 2010 04:42
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I thought flipping the rotor around to do the other side would be an issue. I am supposed to be getting a milling machine in 6-12 months from the same person I bought my lathe from, so I should be able to make that special tooling you speak of.
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Feb 6, 2010 18:28
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The HF meters do OK with measuring volts, but they suck at ohms. I've compared readings with my Fluke 77. But, it will tell you if you have an open circuit or not.
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Feb 7, 2010 22:28
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Personally, whenever I install an oil filter, I don't over tighten it, I lubricate the gasket, and never have a problem getting it off in the future. It's when you have to change somebody else's oil, and some other rear end in a top hat torqued that filter down that you gotta worry about getting it off. But, chances are that rear end in a top hat didn't use that nice filter with the hex head on it, and you'll still have to break out some type of oil filter wrench, or a screw driver. Personally, I like the oil filter wrenches that have the 3 grippers, hook up to a ratchet, and its grip on the filter gets tighter as you try to turn it.
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Feb 9, 2010 05:35
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The trick is to put it in position with your hands around the filter, get it semi tight, hold it on there with one hand, THEN put on the ratchet and remove filter.
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Feb 9, 2010 07:02
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That is a nice hammer. Gave me some ideas for some future lathe projects. I like the idea of removable faces, that is really cool. However, I'm still partial to wooden handles, even if I have to maintain them every so often. I guess I just like how wood feels in my hand. 
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Feb 10, 2010 19:27
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I still insist that Air-carbon Arc Cutting and Gouging is more awesome and satisfying to use then a Sawz-all. Either that, or an Exothermic oxygen lance.
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Mar 11, 2010 04:29
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You see, a Sawzall doesn't use an insane amounts of amps, which instantly melts metal and blows it 12 feet away with compressed air, while making an intensely bright arc and a deafening sound that without a doubt requires ear protection. So basically, to sum up, a Sawz-all is just a big vibrator the pussies use while dicking around their house when the real men go play with electricity and steel outside. We are talking about awesome and gratifying, not home improvement.*  *Well I am anyway, don't know about you.
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Mar 11, 2010 05:23
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ab0z posted:Why would you NOT bring det cord to the table? Or are you suggesting I use the SAWZALL to cut my steaks instead?
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Mar 11, 2010 07:09
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Sockington posted:I dunno, 13amps of Sawzall has yet to meet something it didn't like. I'm talking more like a range of anywhere from 90-1200 amps depending on carbon diameter (1/8" - 1"). At home, I use a wimpy 1/8" or 3/16" carbons which uses 100-300 amps. At work I used to regularly use 1/4" carbons which I ran at about 400-500 amps. And yes, I've been shocked with that 400 amps before on a hot sweaty day due to my own stupidity. It knocked me back about 4 feet.
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Mar 13, 2010 14:56
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Well, when you stop and consider that it's coming out of a welding machine the service requirements aren't as large as the output requirements. For example, my Lincoln Idealarc can do a maximum of 250 DC or 300 AC amps, on a 50 amp 220v service. Once you start getting above that size machine, you are in the realm of 3 phase service or large engine driven machines. That being said, you can't use any single phase DC welding machine to run a DC carbon. Single phase AC doesn't rectify into a clean enough signal to maintain an arc with a carbon. They do however, make AC carbons. I use my engine driven welder for running DC carbons. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 15:03
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Aceshighxxx posted:That 1/2" breaker works great for just about everything, but it's juuuust barely too small for really stubborn axle nuts.
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Mar 16, 2010 14:46
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In my experience, if a lug is getting sheared off, it's going to happen no matter what tool you are using, because some rear end in a top hat cross threaded it, or it's rusted/corroded really bad.
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Mar 16, 2010 23:01
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I generally prefer blue paint, BUT, don't forget that Hobart machines are made/owned by Miller, except they paint it grey. You can sometimes find great deals on Hobarts (usually at Tractor Supply). Also yellow paint (ESAB) makes a very fine machine too. They are the only non-American machine that I endorse. Edit to sum up: dv6speed approved(tm) welding machine brands: Miller (blue) Hobart (grey) Lincoln (red) ESAB (yellow) Have an absolutely wonderful day! AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Mar 20, 2010 |
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Mar 20, 2010 04:37
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Slung Blade posted:Use the waterjet to cut already hardened steel! 
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Mar 22, 2010 18:04
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Ripoff posted:The Hobart Handler 187 will work fine for you. Stick to Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, or ESAB equipment. Avoid Chinese temptresses. For automotive uses, oxy-acetylene and stick welding is almost useless to you, however, you will occasionaly use a cutting torch on a stubborn bolt or want to braze something. I use a torch all the loving time at my shop, but not for automtive purposes. If you are doing alot of sheetmetal fabrication, a plasma cutter will be more useful then a torch. Also, when welding sheet metal, those clamp devices that have copper backstops are a life saver sometimes. Oh and if you want to be good at welding... PRACTICE!
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Apr 21, 2010 13:59
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Speaking of welding machines, I just wanted to say something: Welding machines are like potato chips... you can't have just ONE. The fact of the matter is you need more then one, it's just a matter of one which do you want to buy first. There are two types of welding power supplies, Constant Current, and Constant Voltage. MIG and Flux core need CV. TIG and Stick use CC. For most auto guys MIG is the best choice to start with, and then add TIG as your needs require. If you get the itch to burn some 6011 or 7018, your TIG machine will do that too. Just plan to budget in the future for all 4 setups: MIG, TIG/stick, torch, and plasma cutter, because I can garuntee once you buy one, it's only a matter of time till the rest sit in your shop. Once you spend some money on something, you've just commited 5+ figures in future expenses. Think of it like getting married, only you actually get to play with the toys afterwards. oxbrain posted:Solder joints don't like prolonged vibration. NASA uses crimps for wiring, the military uses crimps for wiring. I'd hope they know their poo poo. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Apr 22, 2010 |
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Apr 22, 2010 02:19
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The O-rings inside of them need to be replaced every so often. There isn't much else to wear out. I suppose some people don't know how to replace O-rings, and throw them out.
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Apr 29, 2010 17:09
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I've made a couple posts in the metal working thread in DIY that may be of interest to some AI guys: Basic electricity for welders. Everything you need to know to get started with Air-carbon-arc Cutting & Gouging
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Apr 30, 2010 02:48
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Can someone recommend me quality yet affordable brand and vendor for socket wrench sets? I understand Craftsman is no longer USA made, and I don't want Harbor Freight stuff. On the other end of the spectrum Snap-On, MAC, Matco, is way out of my budget. I don't use these tools for a living but I do appreciate quality tools when I do use them. I used to have alot of Craftsman stuff from the 90's and early 00's, but a good portion of it got stolen a few years back. I have immediate need for 1/2" drive Metric, I prefer 6 point, want regular and deep.
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Mar 3, 2016 18:33
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When I worked on rail cars a number of years ago, I bought a set of HF deep impact 1/2" sockets, SAE combination wrenches, and a few pipe wrenches. I bought cheap poo poo because I knew my co-workers would bug me for tools because they were lacking. Well one did succeed in breaking a pipe wrench. I tried hard to bust the impact sockets just to see if I could, as we had very powerful impact wrenches and an air compressor that took up an entire room. They lasted just fine much to my amazement. I was disappointed in the tolerances and the fit/finish of the wrenches, but they did the job in an abusive environment. I noticed the surface finish on the HF impact sockets are alot more rough then the set I bought, and they don't come in a nice steel box anymore. I was brought up to appreciate and value fine tools. Buy it once, buy it for life. I'm willing to spend more then HF tools, not because my application requires it, just because I want something nice. Who are good retailers for hand tools these days? I see the gearwrench sockets are on Amazon and look like they are priced competitively, but like Tooltopia I'm frustrated with the search functions and categorization.
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Mar 4, 2016 00:10
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| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 09:51 |
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I had to go to HF anyway, so I looked at their chrome sockets and said gently caress it and picked up some metric 1/2" drive deep and regular. I might look for some used stuff later. Their combo wrenches look a bit better then they used to. That said I'm pissed off at the packaging, they obviously design it so you can't pull sockets off in the store, well you can't pull them off when you get the home either.
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Mar 4, 2016 03:11
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