|
My go-to utility knife, olfa L1. Snap off blade ends, locks in place, jdm.
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2016 17:28
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 19:11 |
|
|
You could just go to a norco or airgas or something and do the same thing. We always had a small cylinder of nitrogen at the track to adjust tire and shock pressures.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2016 03:06
|
|
|
More expensive, but ratcheting box end wrenches are magical.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2017 02:01
|
|
|
I rented a wet saw to cut stone block, worked pretty great, but I had everything ready to cut and only needed it one day. Then I found out I could just buy the drat blocks in the sizes I cut them to. Not a tile saw though, more like a big chop saw. Safety third! 
jamal fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jul 23, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2017 06:38
|
|
|
Good call- gently caress spending money in that shithole.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2017 08:03
|
|
|
Woah, I want one of those.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2017 18:57
|
|
|
Wera? https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05073593001-Multicolor-Metric-Blacklaser/dp/B009ODV0OE
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2017 07:01
|
|
|
Self tightening jaw style is the way to go for sure, or just the caps that fit on the end if you only have one car/filter to change. There's no room for the pliers on most of the stuff I usually do.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2017 22:08
|
|
|
They make low profile ramps, but race ramps for example are pretty pricey. https://raceramps.com/car-ramps/garage-and-service-ramps/56-race-ramps/ And yeah a 2x4 in front of the ramp might do it. or make your own little ramps out of wood, like 2x8s stacked on top of each other. I expect they don't need to be very high for an oil change. I can still change my oil with all the wheels on the ground, but my drain pan just barely fits and the plug and filter and in the front and easy to reach.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2017 06:23
|
|
|
I think you're going to need some specialty sockets, bmw likes to use torx and reverse torx IIRC. It's been awhile since I've been under one.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2018 00:17
|
|
|
Good for smaller stuff though like clamps on the intake and undertrays and such. I did some work on an audi recently and the most time consuming part was a zillion torx undetray screws.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2018 01:32
|
|
|
I use one of these https://store.snapon.com/3-8-Drive-...et-P642284.aspx well, a matco one but I can't find it in their catalog.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 9, 2018 19:20
|
|
|
What kind of tires do you have and how much tread depth is left?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2018 04:02
|
|
|
These are really good: https://www.murraycorp.com/clamp/constant-tension/constant-tension-turbo-seal-clamps-tss/ I can get them in small packs relabeled by turbosmart through one of my WDs. Second choice would be the non-perforated ideal clamps, or at least something with a liner http://idealtridon.com/aftermarket/non-perforated/ But for stuff like a radiator hose on a plastic endtank it's nice to have the spring loaded constant tension clamps. A diesel truck shop will have constant tension t-bolts and maybe the murray style clamps in the first link. And wiggins clamps need special ends and usually welding, it's not something you just buy and clamp on (it's like a v-band, but with o-rings and it can move a bit). jamal fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jul 7, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2019 17:39
|
|
|
And if a spec seems funny look up a chart with torque values by fastener size and type. Even FSMs have errors. https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension%20Reference%20Guide.pdf Beach Bum posted:
It's like, possibly an extra 1-2%, or not. Differences in one bolt/threaded hole to another as far as machining tolerance, cleanliness, etc, tightening, loosening, then re-tightening all have more effect on your actual fastener load than being at the end of the wrench's range or not. If you couldn't use the wrench at those settings, they wouldn't be on the wrench in the first place. The only actual issue is that with too big a wrench at the low end of the range it's harder to notice the click and you might just go right past it and break something.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2020 21:17
|
|
|
I have the mid torque and definitely like how it's pretty light and compact. And it's cracked some axle nuts off, eventually. I want the big one too though.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 24, 2021 05:52
|
|
|
We stacked up linoleum tiles to get a level surface (and then had fancy slip plates and scales). Then used a laser string deal, which set up on the rear wheels. So we set rear toe first to make the lines parallel to each other and the hubs, then used those lines for front toe. Personally I plan to make my own set of laser strings that use a hanging setup like regular strings but then project a laser plane forward so that I'm not basing the alignment off the position of the rear hubs. I replaced the struts on my sister's car a few years ago when I was in canada and had basically no tools with me and aligned it with toe plates I made of plywood and test driving. I wonder if it's been on an actual alignment rack, I'd kind of like to see how I did.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 6, 2021 04:27
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 19:11 |
|
|
or get a knipex pliers wrench. Although I guess it might be a little harder to loosen the drive side rear axle nut. i think harbor freight has a knockoff now. jamal fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Oct 30, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2022 17:47
|
|