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Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


For all of you wanting a good electric impact, take a look at Rigid's R6300 HD Impact Wrench.
Max Torque: 450 ft.lb.

It's hard to find poo poo it won't break loose on your basic 120v power.
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R6300-I...ch/EN/index.htm

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Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Suniikaa posted:

Canadians, Princess Auto has auto darkening welding helmets on for 48 dollars

Sweeet. Need to make a battery bracket for the 323 and this will be much better than the old industrial one I have.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Suniikaa posted:

Canadians, Princess Auto has auto darkening welding helmets on for 48 dollars

Sgt Fox posted:

I have the same model. It works great.

Power Fist makes another sale.


And cause the wife gave the OK on something else there too (old birthday gift cards made this on sale);


Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Whitey Ford posted:

I've got this one, it's probably the same exact product that HF sells
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2306

It's great for what it's worth to be honest.

I have the identical one with a different brand name. Handy as gently caress.

EDIT: I picked up this badboy for the garage.


\/\/\/ Now you can find that gerbil, right?

Sockington fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Jan 1, 2010

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


RealKyleH posted:

If you don't drill stainless often or at all regular ol' HSS bit will be fine.

What if all I do is drill stainless and aluminium? Which bits should I be looking for stainless and aluminium? (mainly like 0.032" - 0.016" aluminium, and 0.020" stainless sheet metal. Nothing like 1" of stainless or anything).

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


RealKyleH posted:

Cobalt 118* if theyre used often, HSS 118* if theyre used in your garage now and then.

I'm drilling 1/8 and 3/16 holes for either pop rivets or screws - just tiny little holes.

The pure carbide stuff is too brittle, right? So look to something Cobalt, correct?

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Splizwarf posted:

It's a Sawzall. Cut your guilt up until the pieces are too small to bother you anymore. Then do it to everything else in the world.

Rhyno posted:

I'm pretty sure I could cut the planet in half with this thing. It makes my arms ache after a few seconds of use.

It's how I get things like this out for "garbage day"




dv6speed posted:

You see, a Sawzall doesn't use an insane amounts of amps

I dunno, 13amps of Sawzall has yet to meet something it didn't like.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Mar 13, 2010

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


dv6speed posted:

I'm talking more like a range of anywhere from 90-1200 amps depending on carbon diameter (1/8" - 1").

At home, I use a wimpy 1/8" or 3/16" carbons which uses 100-300 amps. At work I used to regularly use 1/4" carbons which I ran at about 400-500 amps. And yes, I've been shocked with that 400 amps before on a hot sweaty day due to my own stupidity. It knocked me back about 4 feet.

I doubt my 100amp service would be up for that kind of tom foolery without some kind of crazy step-down panel/splice into the overhead lines infront of the house.

\/\/\/
Only have 30amp service in the garage, so I had to make sure to calculate my 8amps of lighting + 20amps of welder = 2amps of non-popped breakers.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Mar 13, 2010

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Black88GTA posted:

That car belongs to a guy on a SVX forum that I frequent. According to him, the heavy stuff was done with an air-powered die grinder and then it was hand finished.

My BP intake manifold.









Yeah, I bought a special intake manifold design and painted it. That thing still sits under my bench mocking me for giving up on the awful sanding I did.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


CornHolio posted:


25" long 1/2" drive breaker bar. $11.99 on sale

Only 1/2" ?


3/4"

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Lowclock posted:

Sock loves to torture himself working on rusted out husks of cars everyone else would have hauled to the wrecker, and he gave up on this, if that's any indication of how miserable this will be to do yourself.

It's a lot of time standing there. Hope you have some thoughts to get in order or happen to like what's on the radio that day.

I decided to get lazy and just paint everything instead.



EDIT: poo poo, reply isn't edit.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


D C posted:

Until the 3/4-1/2 adapter shears off. (not saying yours is cheap, or will break)

It says "Princess Auto" on it. It's cheap.


I made sure to buy a couple of those adapters - lest I break one is a moment of need.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Slung Blade posted:

If you have to buy your helmet separately, just get this one:
http://www.princessauto.com/welding...-welding-helmet

I've used mine just about every weekend for the last 2 years and it has never let me down. I use it for arc, TIG, and MIG welding. The adjustable darkness is great, and it's very easy to use. Comfortable on my gigantic noggin too.

You can get them for 50 bucks on sale (which they have every 2 weeks).

Got one and love it!


Slung Blade posted:

But yeah, don't buy a welding machine from princess auto unless it's a lincoln, miller, or hobart.

My 220v Princess Auto brand gas mig leaves a lot to be desired, but it still gets some of the job done.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


CornHolio posted:

Harbor Freight... and a sawed-off 14mm allen.

Cheap tools. Mother of invention.

I need a slightly bent wrench to reach that one fender bolt.... *looks at torches and a cheap 14mm wrench*

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


BrokenKnucklez posted:

Some one told me the other day is to go to auctions at a farmers residence. He said that he picked up an older Forney for 50 bucks with every thing. Clams and cables are perfect, and he purchased a hood and gloves for 5 bucks with it. Looks like I gotta start searching out the papers for some good farm auctions.

The great things about farmers - you don't even need to pay them in cash. Just mention a bunch of other random junk you have and they might say they'll "swap yer fer it" instead.


Doubtful at an auction though.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Slung Blade posted:

I'd like one to make bulldozers with.

Bulldozers are for wimps. Killdozers are where the action is.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


RealKyleH posted:

Look at: DeWalt

I dropped our DeWalt 18v hammer drill from over 120ft and it still works (the chuck is a bit warped, but works perfect).

We use drills heavily/frequently and DeWalt has lasted the longest (I love the mini-impact). Drilling sheet metal/aluminium, running 3/8" self drillers through I-beams/L-channel, etc. Good heavy work.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


oxbrain posted:

Black and Decker owns both Dewalt and Porter Cable. They share a lot of internals across their product lines.

Wow. I've had this old rear end cheap Black and Decker 18v forever. It just keeps going - I now know why. It doesn't have a huge pile of force but it drives screws for most of the day without trouble.

PS1800 is says.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


I bought the Mastercraft 1/2" torque wrench a while ago. It takes care of everything from 50+ ft.lbs.

Problem is, for aluminium stuff it is complete overkill. I'd like to pick up a nice 1/4" torque wrench that will handle all the little stuff.
EDIT: It appears 200 in/lbs is about their limit, which is under 20 ft/lbs.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Jun 26, 2010

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Uthor posted:

I bought one, used it once or twice, put it back in the box, and found it in a pool of oil the next time I picked it up to use it. Since I don't use it often, it was way out of warranty.

But I thought Craftsman had a lifetime warranty.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


my1999gsr posted:

I bought one of the Mastercraft Maximum 1/2" torque wrenches for work but it's ratchet failed. Replaced it under warranty, and 3 weeks later the new one's ratchet failed too. After that I broke down and bought a Snap-On and no problems since. Maybe I just got a bad batch of wrenches but I was pretty disappointed that 2 failed.

I'm hopefully not using it enough to fail the ratcheting part.

I was thinking of picking up a Jet one for my 3/8 drive torque wrench - they are fairly nice quality. I'm in love with their 48tooth long-handle 1/4" and 3/8" ratchets that I have for normal use in the garage.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jun 28, 2010

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


R-Type posted:

it's a turd. Lowes or Home Depot's riviting tools are solid.

Arrow brand.

For cheap rivet tools - only get the big scissor style. The traditional hand ones are poo poo from the cheap guys. The bigger (14-18" handle rivet tools) ones will last longer and make the actual riveting simple.

Doing 3/16" stainless rivets into 14gauge galvanized steel sure was a workout with the normal hand riveter though. Made a man outta my hand.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


sharkytm posted:

As someone who goes through ~20 rivet guns a year, I'll just say this:
Arrow or Surebonder. Nothing else even comes close.

See? Those who know speak the truth. Cheap rivet guns aren't worth the hassle.

These are the only style cheap ones that have held up for me - even being a cheap tool, they almost cost as much as the Arrow hand rivet tool.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


oxbrain posted:

You know that new rotors are like $15 on rockauto?

We had a proper rotor/drum lathe at the parts store I worked at. We would discount new rotors/drums to the point that it didn't make sense for the customer to turn the rotors (unless it was the full-size hub & rotor style). Saved us loving around for 30-45minutes and got more product out the door.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


We have a DeWalt impact at work. I have used the ever-living gently caress out of it and it keeps on ticking. Great little tool. I use the little bugger to drive 3/8" head self-drilling screws through 1/4" steel L-channel for most of a day. Works wonderful.

Wish I had one at home sometimes.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Skyssx posted:

I've shied away from Dewalt since I was issued some in Germany. I melted one in about 30 seconds of use the first time, and then the other one about a week later.

Just wanted to say I spent 8hrs last night drilling through solid steel I-beams with the DeWalt and self drilling screws. Worked like a champ (we seriously use these EVERYDAY and they seem to hold up). I don't know why yours was sooo cheap, but ours has been through hell and back.

2 years of almost daily use/abuse - and it keeps on working.

Skyssx posted:

This isn't strictly automotive, but i've been sold on the necessity of a cordless impact driver.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Splizwarf posted:

Holy crap, that's a lot of... oh. Robertson.

Is there any other kind of screw? gently caress Mr. Phillips and his stupid rear end stripped out products.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Would something like this also be handy for doing some megasquirt work down the road?

EDIT: \/\/\/ Looks good!

Sockington fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Aug 3, 2010

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


IOwnCalculus posted:

Goddamn, Circuit Specialist is practically on the way home from work for me. If I ever decide to tackle a decent sized soldering project beyond just my R/C stuff, I might pick up one of those stations.

For $44.95, that's just a couple bucks more than the lovely RadioShackers.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


sbyers77 posted:

I have a set of those snap ring pliers although they are "PIT BULL" brand, but I am sure they are made by the same manufacturer. They are absolute poo poo. The pot metal they are made out of easily bends out of shape and distorts when you apply pressure to the snap ring.

Sadly they still work the once a year I need them, but I'll be happy to replace them when they break.

I bought the Channel-Lock version for $20 and they've been kickass for EVERYTHING involving snap rings. The cheap ones weren't strong enough to remove the snap rings from a turbocharger.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


FatCow posted:

that's quite a cleaver design.




I hear Nordlocks are the way to fly when it comes to turbo manifold bolts and manifold-to-turbo studs/bolts.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


scapulataf posted:

Brake rotor micrometer.
Note the pointed anvil:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...ore&dir=catalog

quote:

WARNING

* Wear safety goggles (user and bystanders).


Watch out for when I mic this thing, the poo poo is really gonna fly. Hey Tony, put on a grinding shield before you hit that rotor with the mic


I could see a situation where someone tries to measure a rotor while it's TURNING on a rotor lathe requiring protection, but that's just foolish anyways.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Oct 3, 2010

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


grover posted:

No matter how awesome a toolbox may be, is it really worth paying that much more for it than for something from harbor freight or home depot that may rattle and squeak a bit, but organize your tools just as well?

Are they really that nice?

When it comes to supporting the weight of the tools, quality becomes important.

Cheap boxes that slide like poo poo when empty loving suck when full. *slide*bind*slide*bind*

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Skyssx posted:

Honestly, it's not possible to get a good pressure washer period for under $700. So buy the cheapest you can find and plan on disposing of it after two seasons.

I can confirm this. I used a 220v diesel Kärcher everyday for a 10years. This will last you.. but is way overkill.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Nov 6, 2010

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


FogHelmut posted:

Does Harbor Freight sell individual sockets? Or where can I get a 1.25" socket as cheaply as possible?

Is it for axle nuts? If so, some parts stores have a "lend-a-tool" program where you can just put a deposit on a set of four sockets (30,32,34,36mm) and return then when finished.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Home Depot (Canada) had their Ryobi 6" bench grinder on for $20 (today only). Picked one up.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Skyssx posted:

Nor should any hand tool manufacturer. My grandpa was working for a company that did a lot with piping and radiators. Small stuff up to huge building sized radiators. This company was based in Elyria, Ohio so using Ridge Tools was a no-brainer. On one day, they exchanged four man tall pipe wrenches at no charge. The guy working customer service that day said "I'd like to know the name of the man who bent that!" and the reply he was given was either "John Deere" or "Caterpillar", I can't remember.

RIGID quality has taken a dive for the worse in the past years - the battery&charging sysem for their portable tools suck serious rear end. We had a whole fleet of batteries die on us from using the gently caress out of them daily (been using DeWalt since with no problems).

Their older stuff is pretty loving tough though.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Skyssx posted:

The electric tools sold under the RIDGID name don't have so much to do with the hand tools, especially pipe fitting tools. They're under one company, but i'm sure if there wasn't the association with Home Depot, most of that stuff wouldn't be made. I'd not buy any of their 18v Li-Ion stuff, but i'm happy with their corded angle grinder. I almost bought their planer and joiner (because they were on sale) but I couldn't justify $900 in tools to make a round top chest for camping.

I have their 1/2"chuck 2-speed hammer-drill (110v), and it's loving awesome. It's mainly the portable tools that I've had/seen any issues with.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


rotarybob posted:

http://goo.gl/gI9ao
Mastercraft 322-piece Socket & Tool Set, comes with a huge load of everything and the good old Mastercraft lifetime warranty.

Maximum is the way to fly, but new tools are new tools.

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Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Brigdh posted:

What is a good tool/product for getting baked on oil off an aluminum engine block in tight spaces?

Easy Off and a toothbrush? Make sure to flush thoroughly as it can gently caress with aluminium if it sits too long.

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