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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

kastein posted:

you will always need more grinders, but don't bother buying one until you need it. I usually use mine for removing skin from my knuckles and putting grinder marks all over everything next to what I was trying to cut off.

Don't forget assisting in your "Pinhead" from Hellraiser cosplay when you equip it with a wire wheel.

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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

nitsuga posted:

Harbor Freight screwdrivers spotted though.

gently caress the screwdrivers and straight edge, that's like 8k worth of Lista cabinets.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

See if someone you know has a Rigid or (LOL) Swagelok. Their benders are amazing, and have roller bearings to prevent kinking. I've got a Swagelok that I bought used on eBay. Spendy, but very very nice and can bend SS tubing with no problem.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

the spyder posted:

I eBay'd a set of swagelok in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2". Overkill 10x.

I've just got my 1/4" for bending hydraulic tubing. It's a sweet piece of kit.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

They're wood screw pilot/countersink drills.
The modern version is this: https://www.rockler.com/4-piece-woo...e-drill-bit-set

Yours are set for specific screw size (#8 or #12), and length (1", etc).

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

urzaserra256 posted:

Are there any recommendations on a bluetooth OBD2 reader?

Option 1: Whatever ELMxxxx chip is cheap. Like $11 cheap.
Pro: cheap, works ok
Con: Really cheap construction, only works ok

Option 2: OBDLink, around $90
Pro: much better support, build quality, and supports non-OBDII parts on many vehicles.
Con: expensive, still not a factory tool

Option 3: Factory tool or similar aftermarket unit (VAG-COM, AutoEnginuity, etc), prices start at $300 and too to
Pro: factory tool which can do all sorts of crazy poo poo
Con: expensive and only works on one make/brand

What are you trying to accomplish? Option 1 is a great place to start. I have both an AutoEnginuity and a VAG-COM, but I have a cheap Panlong OBDII reader in each car. Throw away the software they send and use Torque.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

I thought OBDLink did some manufacturer specific coding as well. BimmerCode can use the OBDLink. There's only a few brands that really require an OEM tool these days. Mercedes and the "order a dodgy Russian laptop with the software loaded", I'm looking at you.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

slidebite posted:

Lincoln/skf.

The milwaukee cordless is pretty dope once primed.

Lincoln plus LockNLube coupler. The hype on the LockNLube is real.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

Plastik posted:

I always thought driving a Philips head with a powered brapp (electric or pneumatic doesn't matter) is playing dangerous games because if it cams out it can slip several times and chowder the head before you can remove power. The manual impact driver won't do that because of all the force used to interlock the driver and head.

Is that not the case?

You are correct and that is indeed the case. I use mine for Honda rotor retaining screws, salt-crusted screws, and various other tasks. Mine is a Proto, and eventually the bits fail. They're consumable, so I don't mind.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

Uthor posted:

Speaking of McMaster, there was talk about nitrile gloves. I tried to get some from them today and everything was either "limited supply, no guarantee we can fulfill the order" or had a shipping date 26 weeks out.

The PVC gloves were also low stock. The only box of 100 I found in stock was $30.

I did buy a bunch of random saw blades and got them half off with Mom's discount! I should have been getting consumables from them a lot sooner.

Your mom gets a McMaster discount? Is she adopting?

McMaster is overpriced, but you get great quality, excellent customer service, fast shipping, and guaranteed availability.

MSC, eBay, or industrial sales shops are the place for taps and dies. Or course, I buy from McMaster too...

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

StormDrain posted:

I bought something there just because of the reliable information, dims etc. Way more than I anticipated spending but worth it to buy the exact right thing on the first try.

Oh, don't get me wrong. I love McMaster. I've spent in excess of $25k there in the past 5 years. Their CAD drawings and files are a huge resource for everyone, and I think their pricing is totally justified. It's just once you have the part you needed, you can probably find it for less. For example: titanium hose clamps. McMaster buys them from Titan marine and marks them up like 50%. If you know it's the right part, you can just order from Titan and save some money. Titanium bolts, 1/4-20 x1". $6.86 each from McMaster, about $4.25 each from Allied Titanium. The McMaster bolts are RoHS, REACH, and DFARS certified, the Allied bolts aren't.

Tooling is tough. If you're a home-gamer and don't have an MSC discount, McMaster isn't a bad idea. I miss ENCO for that stuff. I buy a lot of tooling from eBay, but if I need a 4-40 bottoming tap in a hurry, it's McMaster all day.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

kastein posted:

For hardware, I'm surprised you aren't going directly to boltdepot, since they're practically local to you. Even out in central I get my orders next day from them.

I've found the same thing with McMaster. Back in the day I needed to spec some tapered bearings for a project at work and bought them on McMaster. They came to like 65 dollars a set or something crazy like that. When they showed up I said wait a minute, these are just timken taper bearings. Looked the part numbers on the box up on rockauto and got the next few sets for like 13 a set, they were used as wheel bearings on a ton of 60s Chevies it turned out. My boss was cross I was ordering car parts on the company credit card until I explained what was going on

I use bolt depot for big orders. If I just need a couple boxes of stuff (and critically other things non-bolt related), McMaster is better. Bolt Depot is great if you need bulk, but aren't particularly price competitive on small quantities. Plus bolt depot doesn't carry some of what I need (spring detent pins, spacers, etc) I get next-day shipping for short money, and the customer service is amazing. For example, I ordered a 12" piece of 1x3x.25 316SS angle. It showed up with massive distortion and was clearly the end of a mill pour, as the piece thinned out over the last 5-6". One chat with McMaster customer service, and I had another piece the next day. No muss, no fuss. Same with some precision-ground SS rod. They didn't protect it and it showed up dinged up on the edges. One chat later, new piece in the mail. No return shipping, no bullshit.


Hypnolobster posted:

Yeah, the advantage is the gorgeous catalog and astonishingly fast shipping. I get things same-day on a regular basis here.

They can turn out to be price-competitive sometimes but it's definitely not often. I convenience-buy from them a lot just because it's so easy.
Yup. Convenience is key. Their web and mobile sites are so drat easy to use, too.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

Motronic posted:

You can also buy bulk good quality SJOOW at an electrical supply place and put your own ends on it.

DING DING DING. Buy high quality cord ends, high quality copper cord, and be done with it. Zoro and other industrial suppliers will sell bulk SJOOW cord. 10/4 is probably going to be sufficient (and 12/4 might do). Just don't be surprised at the cost. Cheaper cords use SJTOW or even worse, SJTW which has thermoplastic jacket and PVC insulator, and that's what sucks. Neoprene jackets last a lot longer and can handle oil/grease better, and the EPDM insulation does as well.
https://www.awcwire.com/faq-portable-cord

sharkytm fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Nov 12, 2020

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

StormDrain posted:

Wire rope clips, from the post above you. Just remember, never saddle a dead horse. The saddle goes on the live end of the cable.

Bingo. Either Nicopress, clips, or be-a-real-macho-man and splice the wire manually. And you definitely want bigger wire than 1/16. I'd say 3/16 or 1/4 minimum.

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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib


https://youtu.be/AbSehcT19u0

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