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Commodore 64 posted:By the way it throws out 404's; I think they did. Yea, the site is completely nonfunctional. I've had really bad luck with the old-fashioned HF hose clamps larger than like 2 inches. The "teeth" on the band tend to shear and bend with moderate tightening. edit: exactly what the above poster described. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Apr 30, 2010 |
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2021 12:20 |
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CornHolio posted:I bought a set at autozone that were this, but the problem is for whatever reason they're like three inches long. I can't get the socket itself where I need to, let alone the socket and a ratchet. Sounds like the perfect excuse to buy this: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...nder-91223.html and a cut-off wheel.
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RealKyleH posted:I think they did at some point but I dont see anything on their site now. Rhino ramps really arent that great though, I usually keep my jack partially under them just in case. Rhinos have treated me a lot better than cheap metal ramps, at least. The metal ones tend to slide on the garage floor.
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HF (at least mine) doesn't actually sell any cutoff or grinding discs that fit their 4" electric angle grinder. When I took mine in and showed an employee, he took my 4" and traded me up to the 4.5" for free despite mine being several months old, and not having a box or receipt. He also threw in a package of cutoff discs and gave me $5 for my trouble! I love Harbor Freight.
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I'm nominating Harbor Freights pop riveter for "worst tool in the store." I just broke and exchanged two of them trying to fasten 6 rivets. The third tool finally finished the job, but just barely.
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NinjaTech posted:Is this the black and yellow $5 one? I got one and it's been a total piece of poo poo. It will only do one pull on the rivet but not go down any further to actually pop it. I paid $9, but probably the same one.
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Black88GTA posted:Thanks for the tips. I'm seeing if the Ebay seller will honor his 14 day warranty first, but if I do end up repairing it myself, I'll definitely get a new iron tip at the very least. I had already had my eye on one of those "helping hands" dealies with the magnifier and alligator clips on them, since it seems this job would suck without being able to see it clearly. That's really overkill. Just heat up an iron, tin the tip with a few inches of solder, then pull it across a damp sponge a few times to clean all the excess off. With a clean, shiny tip its just a matter of placing the iron at a 15 or so degree angle to the PCB at the end of the rod of pins where they meet the board and pulling the iron toward you slowly so the tip drags across the row of pins.
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scapulataf posted:Is a wire wheel (assuming he has one) not delicate enough for something like that? Heavens no! Have you ever tinned a brand new tip? At least on a good iron like a Weller, they're coated such that solder only readily adheres to the last 1/4 inch or so of the tip, and there's a very sharp separation. The rosin that melts from the center of a few inches of solder is all that's necessary to renew a tip that hasn't been completely abused. Coat it up, wipe off the impurities and excess lead. You can also get little cups of coarse copper wool that you can poke the tip into a few times to accomplish the same thing. I prefer that. The same can probably be accomplished with a coarse scouring pad from the kitchen, but avoid steel wool; it burns. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jul 10, 2010 |
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Sockington posted:Would something like this also be handy for doing some megasquirt work down the road? Hakko 936 or nothing. It heats up fast, keeps a steady temperature, is static-safe, parts, including a variety of tips are readily available. Heck, it's even the same price as your link. http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Solderi...n/dp/B000ARU9HW
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I'm really surprised that my dad hasn't notice how long I've been "barrowing" his Fluke 87. Great meter.
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Alternatively, you can probably find a machine shop to do just the pressing for not very much money so you can do the rest of the work yourself. My corner auto parts chain even offers rotor turning and bearing pressing, but in reality they just send stuff out to a local machine shop for a small handling fee. It's usually cheap enough that it'd take quite a few times to recoup the cost of a press, and personally, I wouldn't give up that much floorspace to a limited-use tool.
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I want to replace the awful wobbly 6ft workbench made of unbraced 2x4s that has been in my garage since I moved in. I know I could brace it up, or even start over and build something sturdy, but having some drawers and cabinets sounds like a nice idea. Everything at Lowes or the Depot is tiny, like 3ft wide, and comes with a thin particle board work surface. Sam's seems like an odd place to look, but can anyone suggest something better than this? http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/p...rod1480010#desc The drawers rolled all right, and the top seemed sturdy enough to bolt a vise to. Of course putting it together sounds like a nightmare.
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Nevermind. That was easy. There's a HF 20% coupon in this months PopSci and the back side is also an ad, so no harm in sliding it from the library.
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Sep 20, 2010 |
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I've been thinking about getting a cheap random-orbital buffer to make waxing my car less of an all-day affair. Is there anything in the under $75 range that's going to treat me significantly better than the $20 HF? http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inc...sher-43424.html
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I think I'm gonna market this to lonely DIY-ers. It's usually easier to just wedge this between the pedal and the floor rail than to find an extra foot. ![]() ![]() edit: that's what I get for posting from a phone. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Oct 19, 2010 |
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iv46vi posted:Are there actually people out there with five grand in cash breathlessly waiting for these? There should be. My brother-in-law is still $40,000 in tool debt from the year he decided to be a mechanic, then subsequently decided he didn't like it.
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Delivery McGee posted:I went to Harbor Freight yesterday to pick up some electrical connectors and tape, and looked at the power tools. Lots of angle grinders on sale for $20. Good thing you bought the 4.5" kind. I steer anyone I can away from the 4" ones. It seriously won't fit any of HFs own accessories.
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All this talk about HF coupons- I just stacked 20% off and "advertised special" miter saw. Maybe it differs by location, or maybe a special is different from a sale. Either way, I got a $150-list saw for $80.
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Josh Lyman posted:Turns out there's a Harbor Freight about 15 miles away and that set looks perfect! Any chance they would discount below their "sale" price of $34.99 for Black Friday? I'm fine with paying $35, but a penny saved. Mine has after-Thanksgiving coupons at the register. 20%, I think, but amongst recent reports of coupons not working with sale items...
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Wombot posted:I bought one of these at Harbor Freight for about 20bux. http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-ATD-.../ref=pd_cp_hi_3 I have the same HF one, and it works as well as any. My problem is that I rarely have cars high enough to work on a creeper, so sliding on a sheet of cardboard is far more convenient. In fact, that's how I had to do an entire transmission swap with a car on Rhino ramps. The extra 3 inches on the creeper seems to make all the difference.
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Just snagged a bunch of HF pact sets, impact wobbles and impact extensions on clearance. The biggest surprise was seeing the 1/2 and 3/4 drive breaker bars for like $4 down from $20ish.
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Brigdh posted:Where do I find a spanner or monkey wrench for a 52mm nut? No one in town has anything close Farm supply store? I got the socket to take the big nut off my axle from a place that mostly sells livestock feed.
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Geoj posted:Uh...maybe use a crowfoot on the torque wrench? Probably won't be accurate but it should be enough to get you in the ballpark. If you put a crows foot on at a 90 degree instead of just extending straight out it shouldn't change the torque reading as much because it wont change the lever length as much. That's thinking abut a beam-style torque wrench. I don't know how it would work with a click kind.
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Bigass Moth posted:Can I get a recommendation on some good ramps that won't slide on a concrete garage floor? Heaviest car that will be on them is a Saturn Vue. Rhino ramps rhino ramps rhino ramps. I'm never buying a metal set again.
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Dielectric posted:The more interesting magazines have 20% off coupons in them. Like Home Shop Machinist and a few of motorcycle mags. Probably not Hustler but it wouldn't hurt to look for a while. If you're a sneaky bastard you could go into B&N and rip a few out, or just buy the magazine and learn something. Public libraries are probably better for this than bookstores. Libraries don't really really archive magazines themselves, and at least then you can say your tax dollars paid for the issue.
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Parts store loaner tool programs were practically invented for spring compressors.
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Splizwarf posted:What's that gonna cost? I can return this scary-looking thing ASAP with a smile. Usually a fully-refundable deposit. Just ask. Most chains do it.
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Rhyno posted:I think there's two of them in town (NE Indiana) and they've been around for a year or so. I have been inside one of them and wasn't thrilled with the layout of the store. I bought some vinyl dye and they printed my receipt on a dot matrix printer. Sort of left me feeling put off. Prices are usually a bit higher than Advance or Autozone, but O'reilly lists a lifetime warranty on pretty much everything when the others don't. It's come in handy on an alternator or two.
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Brain Issues posted:Got a new floorjack for my birthday from my girlfriend. It's an American Forge&Foundry 200t. It weighs 100lbs because it isn't that wimpy aluminum poo poo. Looks a lot like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...jack-67022.html
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meatpimp posted:No way, Harbor Freight has a cheap knockoff? (look at the side rails, the HF one is MUCH thinner... and it weighs 25% less.) The one he posted is heavier?? I really like my orange one, except that its already pretty heavy just around the garage.
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evilnissan posted:Looking for what I can best describe as a manual impact driver. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piec...-set-93481.html It's most handy for stuck Philips screws like those holding brake rotors.
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I replaced my brake master cylinder and remembered how long bleeding takes the old fashioned way, and how poorly vacuum bleeding systems work. Pressure bleeding systems supposedly work well, but are expensive, so I'm trying something I've seen a few times around the web. ![]() $10 sprayer with the nozzle cut off, some plastic tubing and a hose barb. The cap from my old master cylinder with its vent hole drilled to fit the hose barb. It worked to bench bleed my junked MC, but I want a way to read tank pressure before I try it on the car because 20psi max seems to be the prevailing opinion. Ideas? Tire pressure gauges aren't usually designed to give constantly updating measurements. I'd like to keep cost down because I'm under $20 so far.
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Brigdh posted:Recommend me a 12 VDC to 120VAC power converter rated for up to 8 amps Your search will be easier with the right terminology. Going DC>AC takes an "Inverter." You might look at some rough math first, though. Power (watts) = Voltage * Amps So to get 8amps at 120 volts you'll need an inverter rated above 960 watts. However, using the same formula, the alternator would have to supply 68 amps to get 960 watts at 14v while still providing the engine power to run. That also assumes that the inverter is 100% efficient, which is impossible. I don't know what you're driving, but the last alternator I replaced was only rated 80amp and that number is probably much lower with the engine at idle speed. There are some big inverters meant for mobile use, but most of them are sold in truck stops. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Aug 6, 2011 |
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Ace Hardware has 2-packs of camp stove propane for free (4.99 minus a 4.99 register coupon) I need to sweat some pipes way more than I need to go camping right now, so I tried screwing on my soldering torch, but gas leaks out the end even with the torch knob tightly "off." Do these camp fuel tanks just contain a higher pressure gas than the long skinny "plumbing tanks?"
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I'm looking to buy my first arc welder to do some learning and practicing on, before eventually tackling some minor body work. 120v seems like the best idea to me for now. What should I be looking at? I've seen the Lincolns at Home Depot and some mixed reviews around the internet. I've also been looking at the Hobart Handler 140 for about $500, which seems universally liked. Any great deals for a novice looking to get proficient?
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Lord Gaga posted:I already have a Milwaukee recip saw and a ~1HP band saw for doing bigger faster lumber. I got a 14.4v Dewalt with a case, two batteries and a charger at Ace for $80 last week. Home Depot had the same kit for about $100 as an endcap special. Amazon shows it as discontinued, so it might be worth looking around.
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And this is how you do an oil change:![]() I'm up to 3 MGs now, and have always had trouble using a traditional "cherry picker" to pull engines from them. The legs are just too wide to slide in from the front, and the arm is never long enough to pull from the center if i roll in diagonal. $80 and some HF coupons later, chain hoist and beam trolley. Added bonus, I don't have to find a place to stick a big hoist! (Load leveler is coming next round of 20% coupons) I totally rode this engine across the garage.
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kastein posted:whoa whoa whoa. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-...lley-97392.html $60-20%, $48 http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-chain-hoist-996.html $44-20%, $35 About $83 with a friend to use a second coupon.
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Splizwarf posted:They work on square heads which means you can use them with socket extensions to drive sockets. Where do you find a socket extension with two male ends?
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2021 12:20 |
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Veins McGee posted:There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice? If your rust repairs are on body work, no way, get a MIG. If you're talking about structural rust on a frame, sure.
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