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oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Gas power compressors use a valve that opens to release the pressure from the pump side so the engine only has to maintain idle once the tank is full. I can't remember the name. Dump valve maybe?

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oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I got that set of makitas about two months ago. So far I'm happy with them. The drill works great, no complaints. The impact driver struggles with wood screws over 2", but will drive 1/4" lag bolts into a piloted hole no problem.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Small compressors aren't really worth while. If you're doing wheels and smaller stuff an electric will do the job and be cheaper. If you need more torque than an electric can do you need a bigger tank. 20 gallons would be an absolute minimum. You'll get a few seconds of use before you lose pressure.

If you're brave/stupid enough you could buy a larger tank with a busted pump for relatively cheap on CL and plumb that in. I used to run a setup with an assortment of 60 and 80 gallon tanks hooked to a single 5hp pump.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Kilersquirrel posted:

I would redneck-engineer it up like oxbrain used to, but space is at somewhat of a premium since I need to be able to fit both cars into the garage when a severe storm rolls through.

Hey, my official title was Vice President of We Don't Have The Budget For That Make It Work Anyway. It's not redneck engineering if you do it for a living. :jeb::hf::pseudo:

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

melon cat posted:

I'm in the market for a Dremel/rotary cutting tool. I'll be using it for removing caulking, as well as cutting thin metal brackets that are holding up a bathroom mirror (pictured here). Any suggestions? I was considering the Dremel Multi-Max, but wasn't sure if it's the best tool for the job.

I've been abusing one of these for nearly a decade now and it's still going strong.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Whichever was closest. I've got sockets from the local auto parts store because saving $5 isn't worth a 20 minute drive. Quality isn't that much different between the major chain stores. If you want something better quality buy it online.

That said, I'd go with the order you listed them, but with sears last.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Their extendable ratchets are excellent. It's not as strong as a breaker bar, but drat near close and fits in a much smaller bag.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Or throw poo poo at the mirror until it shatters and remove the pieces.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Armchair Calvinist posted:

drat, I'll keep that in mind. I wonder where there's one around here...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001NQQCM/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZEAP9C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Looking at these screwdrivers, but I can't figure out the difference in sizes between the two. :confused:

I've got a few SK screwdrivers. They've got a hex in front of the handle so you can turn it with a wrench. Works great with a ratcheting box wrench on long screws.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I made a 1 flute carbide drill today. :v:

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
A574 is harder and has a higher tensile strength, but the hardness makes them more brittle. Over torquing or excessive vibration will snap them where even a grade 2 fastener would stretch and hold.

Unless you've got a specific reason, stick with grade 8.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

kastein posted:

I don't know if this is true of A574 but this comparison is invalid for grade 5 vs 8 and also ISO PC 8.8 vs 10.9. Higher grade fasteners don't even start yielding until well past the level at which a lower grade fastener would have stretched and then broken. This is a very common misconception that I see a LOT on various forums.

It isn't true for A574. Grade 8 and ISO10.9 both have a max hardness of hrc39 because over that hydrogen embrittlement becomes a big issue. A574 maxes out at hrc45. As you exceed correct torque on a softer bolt it will stretch, but still hold some weight. If you exceed the torque spec on a cap screw it will fail. The torque is way higher, but the tolerance is tiny.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Carbon steel taps are almost worse than not having any taps. They are less likely to break in the hole, but they dull too fast and end up cutting really lovely threads.

Buy a tap and drill index and fill it as needed.High speed steel, H4(D5 in metric) or lower, uncoated/bright is fine. They're more expensive, but they'll last longer.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Yes. Thread cutting is one area where it really isn't worth going cheap.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

MrChips posted:

Oh he made it alright...he just used the wrong thread tag and was autobanned for it :v:

We don't need your rules, man. *disables safety interlock* *loses another finger*

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Raluek posted:

Holy poo poo it's oxbrain.

This is my reaction every time I see a mirror.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Out of curiosity, what's the value of the tools in the box compared to the box itself?

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Krakkles posted:

I can't figure out what the actual difference is between these tools, besides $200+. What's the practical difference between 0590MCX and 0590MHX, at the end of this page:

http://www.apexhandtools.com/brands/hkporter/index.cfm?model_list=1&att_id=HKP001&att1=Manual%20Bolt%20Cutters&att2=Heavy%20Duty

?

The jaws are shaped differently. The chain cutters are stubbier and narrower to fit between links.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

kastein posted:

E: oh yeah, their dial indicator, digital caliper, and verynear mic are alright. Not something I would show up with as a pro or a machinist but did just fine for a ring/pinion setup I did.

I'm a machinist and I never several of their dial indicators in my toolbox. They're not that accurate across the range, but if you set them on a gage block they'll repeat to a thou or two. Good enough for most things. And they're practically disposable so I don't mind using them in places they may get destroyed. You won't find better for anywhere near that price.

Stay away from cheap electric calipers. They eat batteries and don't tell you when they're low. Below a certain voltage they become very inaccurate. You can get a good used mitutoyo dial caliper for well under $100.

Their test indicator is a piece of crap. The action is too rough to be useful.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

mod sassinator posted:

Yeah that's my only annoyance with the HF digital calipers, you absolutely have to remove the batteries after usage or else they'll turn back on and drain the battery before your next use.

Most of the cheap calipers don't have a low power mode, so turning them off is just turning off the lcd. And they use 4-5x more power to begin with.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

kastein posted:

Not really but I love my HF extendable ratchets and I'm not sure why I waited so long to get on that bandwagon. gently caress ever buying another craftsman ratchet.

Seconding the HF extendable ratchets, especially for a mobile tool kit. It's like having a ratchet and a breaker bar in one. My 1/2" drive has stood up to some serious abuse in junkyards .

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I keep thinking of buying one of the 44" boxes. How well do the drawers stay closed over a bumpy floor? The store model doesn't have much of a detent on them.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I've got a set of Vermont American tap wrenches that I like, but they're not much better than the ones you get for $10 on eBay. Look for a cast body and hardened jaws.

My starret t-handles suck. The jaws aren't lined up with the body so they are a bitch to center. T-handles kind of suck anyway.

e: Don't buy tap and die sets. Buy piecemeal.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

spog posted:

If the business were run by the govt, exactly the same as above would be happening.

Except, the outsourcing would be priced at 10x what they used to pay locally.

Nah, the outsourcing costs half as much. It's the final assembly(and rework) in the US that ends up costing 10x more than before because unions. :argh:

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Bajaha posted:

Now we have proof that outsourcing creates good American jobs :911:

It's proof that american workers are lazy and overpaid and we should outsource final assembly too.

And when quality drops it's the fault of those lazy and overpaid american engineers, so we should outsource that too.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I have the old version of that weller. It's a huge improvement over a radio shack iron in terms of quality and reliability. Get yourself a couple sizes of tips and it will do anything you'll be need. Controlling temperature can be tricky, but won't matter unless you're working on smaller electronics. I highly recommend a wire cleaner instead of a sponge.

If you can swing the money, a hakko 888d is nicer and easier to use. If you think you'll ever be doing a lot of circuitry it would be a worthwhile upgrade.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
For the kind of money snap-on wants I could take a couple months off work and make my own.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Elmnt80 posted:

Yeah, thats actually the exact tool cart we have at work. I really only need something half that size.

Then Good News!

http://www.uline.com/Product/ProductDetailRootItem?modelnumber=H-2503

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Preoptopus posted:

You know the easiest and CHEAPEST way to get an oil change is just having a shop do it with a coupon.

Easy, but much higher risk of getting your car hosed up.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I have one of those for 7-8 years now and have put it through all kinds of abuse without issue. It's perfect for a junkyard toolbox because you don't have to bring a breaker bar.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

scuz posted:

Based on this ad by 14", I decided that I wanted one of those air compressors. I'm gonna go lookit this one after work but really haven't much of a clue what I'm looking at. When the guy was talking to me about the unit, he stated that the previous owner has installed a blow-off valve at 80 pounds so it won't go higher than that. I'm guessing that I can remove that blow-off valve and replace it with something else, is that true? I won't do it if it's unsafe, obviously, but 14"'s unit will do "125psi at the regulator all day" and looks preeeetty much the same as the one in the ad that I found, so I'm thinking this can do more than the blow-off valve is allowing.

That's a sweet little compressor.

The only concern with changing to a higher pressure is if the tank can handle it. Check if there's a label that says max psi or find a model number and look it up. Aside from blowing up the tank, worst case scenario is the PO turned it down because the pump seals are worn and leak at higher pressure. Parts are probably available and it's an easy job to fix.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Built in 1958. I wouldn't push the pressure up without getting it proof tested first. It's probably cheaper to buy a new tank. The pump can probably handle 125, but may leak at the seals and be inefficient.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
There aren't many options for cheap toolboxes that aren't poo poo. The 44" HF box gets great reviews and can get down to $300 with coupons. Throw some better paint on it and the people at work might not make fun of you too much.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

revmoo posted:

Any ideas one what I can use to clean the old wax off my friction drawer slides?

I tried a ton of chlorinated brake cleaner and it didn't really do anything.

WD-40 is great at removing sticky stuff.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

revmoo posted:

Simple green is not compatible with aluminum

This is BS. Simple green is as safe for aluminum as almost every other cleaner you would use. It's slightly alkaline, so long term exposure will accelerate corrosion.

Use it to clean and then wash it off and it's fine. Don't let it soak in simple green for weeks like idiots online.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I've got a ton of the small orange handle pliers. They're so cheap and soft it's easy to grind and file them to whatever shape you need for a job. These are modified for making chainmail.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Platystemon posted:

You don’t use parallel‐action pliers for that?

You probably could, but those are expensive and these are cheap.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Nothing will ever out work knife the spyderco native. 14 years of daily abuse. One of these days I'll send it back to spyderco to get a new edge put on.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
The hex shank is a great feature because you can use a wrench to turn it.

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oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

What's the build quality like? Do they smell like harbor freight?

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