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Gas power compressors use a valve that opens to release the pressure from the pump side so the engine only has to maintain idle once the tank is full. I can't remember the name. Dump valve maybe?
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2014 21:50 |
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 12:54 |
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I got that set of makitas about two months ago. So far I'm happy with them. The drill works great, no complaints. The impact driver struggles with wood screws over 2", but will drive 1/4" lag bolts into a piloted hole no problem.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2014 02:06 |
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Small compressors aren't really worth while. If you're doing wheels and smaller stuff an electric will do the job and be cheaper. If you need more torque than an electric can do you need a bigger tank. 20 gallons would be an absolute minimum. You'll get a few seconds of use before you lose pressure. If you're brave/stupid enough you could buy a larger tank with a busted pump for relatively cheap on CL and plumb that in. I used to run a setup with an assortment of 60 and 80 gallon tanks hooked to a single 5hp pump.
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# ¿ Jul 7, 2014 19:59 |
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Kilersquirrel posted:I would redneck-engineer it up like oxbrain used to, but space is at somewhat of a premium since I need to be able to fit both cars into the garage when a severe storm rolls through. Hey, my official title was Vice President of We Don't Have The Budget For That Make It Work Anyway. It's not redneck engineering if you do it for a living.
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2014 00:12 |
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melon cat posted:I'm in the market for a Dremel/rotary cutting tool. I'll be using it for removing caulking, as well as cutting thin metal brackets that are holding up a bathroom mirror (pictured here). Any suggestions? I was considering the Dremel Multi-Max, but wasn't sure if it's the best tool for the job. I've been abusing one of these for nearly a decade now and it's still going strong.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2014 06:14 |
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Whichever was closest. I've got sockets from the local auto parts store because saving $5 isn't worth a 20 minute drive. Quality isn't that much different between the major chain stores. If you want something better quality buy it online. That said, I'd go with the order you listed them, but with sears last.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2014 08:13 |
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Their extendable ratchets are excellent. It's not as strong as a breaker bar, but drat near close and fits in a much smaller bag.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2014 00:44 |
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Or throw poo poo at the mirror until it shatters and remove the pieces.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2014 15:33 |
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Armchair Calvinist posted:drat, I'll keep that in mind. I wonder where there's one around here... I've got a few SK screwdrivers. They've got a hex in front of the handle so you can turn it with a wrench. Works great with a ratcheting box wrench on long screws.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2014 04:15 |
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I made a 1 flute carbide drill today.
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# ¿ Nov 7, 2014 01:16 |
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A574 is harder and has a higher tensile strength, but the hardness makes them more brittle. Over torquing or excessive vibration will snap them where even a grade 2 fastener would stretch and hold. Unless you've got a specific reason, stick with grade 8.
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# ¿ Dec 1, 2014 07:37 |
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kastein posted:I don't know if this is true of A574 but this comparison is invalid for grade 5 vs 8 and also ISO PC 8.8 vs 10.9. Higher grade fasteners don't even start yielding until well past the level at which a lower grade fastener would have stretched and then broken. This is a very common misconception that I see a LOT on various forums. It isn't true for A574. Grade 8 and ISO10.9 both have a max hardness of hrc39 because over that hydrogen embrittlement becomes a big issue. A574 maxes out at hrc45. As you exceed correct torque on a softer bolt it will stretch, but still hold some weight. If you exceed the torque spec on a cap screw it will fail. The torque is way higher, but the tolerance is tiny.
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# ¿ Dec 3, 2014 06:28 |
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the spyder posted:Thread restoration: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-48-pc-sae-metric-thread-restorer-kit/p-00942275000P Carbon steel taps are almost worse than not having any taps. They are less likely to break in the hole, but they dull too fast and end up cutting really lovely threads. Buy a tap and drill index and fill it as needed.High speed steel, H4(D5 in metric) or lower, uncoated/bright is fine. They're more expensive, but they'll last longer.
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# ¿ Feb 5, 2015 01:26 |
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Yes. Thread cutting is one area where it really isn't worth going cheap.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2015 03:12 |
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MrChips posted:Oh he made it alright...he just used the wrong thread tag and was autobanned for it We don't need your rules, man. *disables safety interlock* *loses another finger*
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2015 15:43 |
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Raluek posted:Holy poo poo it's oxbrain. This is my reaction every time I see a mirror.
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2015 15:59 |
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Out of curiosity, what's the value of the tools in the box compared to the box itself?
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2015 02:27 |
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Krakkles posted:I can't figure out what the actual difference is between these tools, besides $200+. What's the practical difference between 0590MCX and 0590MHX, at the end of this page: The jaws are shaped differently. The chain cutters are stubbier and narrower to fit between links.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2015 06:43 |
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kastein posted:E: oh yeah, their dial indicator, digital caliper, and verynear mic are alright. Not something I would show up with as a pro or a machinist but did just fine for a ring/pinion setup I did. I'm a machinist and I never several of their dial indicators in my toolbox. They're not that accurate across the range, but if you set them on a gage block they'll repeat to a thou or two. Good enough for most things. And they're practically disposable so I don't mind using them in places they may get destroyed. You won't find better for anywhere near that price. Stay away from cheap electric calipers. They eat batteries and don't tell you when they're low. Below a certain voltage they become very inaccurate. You can get a good used mitutoyo dial caliper for well under $100. Their test indicator is a piece of crap. The action is too rough to be useful.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2015 18:00 |
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mod sassinator posted:Yeah that's my only annoyance with the HF digital calipers, you absolutely have to remove the batteries after usage or else they'll turn back on and drain the battery before your next use. Most of the cheap calipers don't have a low power mode, so turning them off is just turning off the lcd. And they use 4-5x more power to begin with.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2015 20:17 |
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kastein posted:Not really but I love my HF extendable ratchets and I'm not sure why I waited so long to get on that bandwagon. gently caress ever buying another craftsman ratchet. Seconding the HF extendable ratchets, especially for a mobile tool kit. It's like having a ratchet and a breaker bar in one. My 1/2" drive has stood up to some serious abuse in junkyards .
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2015 20:44 |
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I keep thinking of buying one of the 44" boxes. How well do the drawers stay closed over a bumpy floor? The store model doesn't have much of a detent on them.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2015 18:16 |
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I've got a set of Vermont American tap wrenches that I like, but they're not much better than the ones you get for $10 on eBay. Look for a cast body and hardened jaws. My starret t-handles suck. The jaws aren't lined up with the body so they are a bitch to center. T-handles kind of suck anyway. e: Don't buy tap and die sets. Buy piecemeal.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2015 17:53 |
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spog posted:If the business were run by the govt, exactly the same as above would be happening. Nah, the outsourcing costs half as much. It's the final assembly(and rework) in the US that ends up costing 10x more than before because unions.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2015 20:06 |
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Bajaha posted:Now we have proof that outsourcing creates good American jobs It's proof that american workers are lazy and overpaid and we should outsource final assembly too. And when quality drops it's the fault of those lazy and overpaid american engineers, so we should outsource that too.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2015 23:51 |
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I have the old version of that weller. It's a huge improvement over a radio shack iron in terms of quality and reliability. Get yourself a couple sizes of tips and it will do anything you'll be need. Controlling temperature can be tricky, but won't matter unless you're working on smaller electronics. I highly recommend a wire cleaner instead of a sponge. If you can swing the money, a hakko 888d is nicer and easier to use. If you think you'll ever be doing a lot of circuitry it would be a worthwhile upgrade.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2015 15:07 |
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For the kind of money snap-on wants I could take a couple months off work and make my own.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2015 06:12 |
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Elmnt80 posted:Yeah, thats actually the exact tool cart we have at work. I really only need something half that size. Then Good News! http://www.uline.com/Product/ProductDetailRootItem?modelnumber=H-2503
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2016 02:09 |
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Preoptopus posted:You know the easiest and CHEAPEST way to get an oil change is just having a shop do it with a coupon. Easy, but much higher risk of getting your car hosed up.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2016 01:17 |
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I have one of those for 7-8 years now and have put it through all kinds of abuse without issue. It's perfect for a junkyard toolbox because you don't have to bring a breaker bar.
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2016 00:46 |
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scuz posted:Based on this ad by 14", I decided that I wanted one of those air compressors. I'm gonna go lookit this one after work but really haven't much of a clue what I'm looking at. When the guy was talking to me about the unit, he stated that the previous owner has installed a blow-off valve at 80 pounds so it won't go higher than that. I'm guessing that I can remove that blow-off valve and replace it with something else, is that true? I won't do it if it's unsafe, obviously, but 14"'s unit will do "125psi at the regulator all day" and looks preeeetty much the same as the one in the ad that I found, so I'm thinking this can do more than the blow-off valve is allowing. That's a sweet little compressor. The only concern with changing to a higher pressure is if the tank can handle it. Check if there's a label that says max psi or find a model number and look it up. Aside from blowing up the tank, worst case scenario is the PO turned it down because the pump seals are worn and leak at higher pressure. Parts are probably available and it's an easy job to fix.
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# ¿ May 19, 2016 22:47 |
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Built in 1958. I wouldn't push the pressure up without getting it proof tested first. It's probably cheaper to buy a new tank. The pump can probably handle 125, but may leak at the seals and be inefficient.
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# ¿ May 20, 2016 18:56 |
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There aren't many options for cheap toolboxes that aren't poo poo. The 44" HF box gets great reviews and can get down to $300 with coupons. Throw some better paint on it and the people at work might not make fun of you too much.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2016 20:55 |
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revmoo posted:Any ideas one what I can use to clean the old wax off my friction drawer slides? WD-40 is great at removing sticky stuff.
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# ¿ Jul 15, 2016 03:57 |
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revmoo posted:Simple green is not compatible with aluminum This is BS. Simple green is as safe for aluminum as almost every other cleaner you would use. It's slightly alkaline, so long term exposure will accelerate corrosion. Use it to clean and then wash it off and it's fine. Don't let it soak in simple green for weeks like idiots online.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2016 17:45 |
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I've got a ton of the small orange handle pliers. They're so cheap and soft it's easy to grind and file them to whatever shape you need for a job. These are modified for making chainmail.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 05:39 |
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Platystemon posted:You don’t use parallel‐action pliers for that? You probably could, but those are expensive and these are cheap.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 17:49 |
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Nothing will ever out work knife the spyderco native. 14 years of daily abuse. One of these days I'll send it back to spyderco to get a new edge put on.
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2016 01:08 |
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The hex shank is a great feature because you can use a wrench to turn it.
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# ¿ Nov 28, 2016 22:59 |
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 12:54 |
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slidebite posted:Hell yes What's the build quality like? Do they smell like harbor freight?
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2017 18:01 |