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EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

Disciple of Pain posted:

Use Ebay to buy real professional grade tools for some stuff and supplement with Harbor Freight stuff for things that I rarely use/aren't all that breakable.
Don't forget your local pawn shops and Craigslist as well.

quote:

Or should I buy a Craftsman set?
Or should I buy a Koblat set?
IME, the latest Craftsman stuff is complete poo poo, even worse than Harbor Freight's standard-issue stuff. Kobalt is better, but you are better off cost-wise at Harbor Freight. NAPA carries some quality tools, believe it or not.

Speaking of Harbor Freight, they have started to carry an extensive line of stuff from Pittsburgh which is actually quite good, especially their Pittsburgh Professional line. Some of the best price/performance out there right now.

What I won't buy at Harbor Freight, though, are precision instruments (think torque wrench, calipers, dial gauge, etc) and anything with an electrical motor in it. For those I cough up for quality manufacturers like Milwaukee.


ease posted:

I got this set from sears onsale for 200$ a few months ago :
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...33260000P?mv=rr

I love it because it helps me keep everything organized. The drivers aren't as nice as some other ones I've had, but perfectly fine none the less.
Still nothing a good set of socket retainers and a toolbox can't correct. Unfortunately, my experience with the Craftsman sets is the included piece as the cheapest crap possible, especially the ratchets.

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EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

Disciple of Pain posted:

How do you know with any torque wrench?
Quality torque wrenches will have serial numbers and a NIST certification certificate.

EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

Am I the only one who prefers using a magnetic screw driver handle with a big set of bits rather than regular screw drivers? They are relatively disposable with massive sets costing virtually nothing. Only real downsides I've seen are when you have a really tight, deep hole you need to get into or having to hammer on them.

Tim706 posted:

Klein pliers do rock.
Klein++

quote:

On a side note, does anybody else hate the Snap-On side cutters? Mine were dull within the first month. My friend has the same pair and his are the exact same way. He bought a pair of Mastercraft (similar to craftsman) for like 10 bucks and they work 10x better then the 40 dollar snap on ones.
Surprisingly large number of really lovely cutters out there. Supposedly Knipex are the best in the business for diagonal cutters. Sears sell them, but you can get then for half price online.

EvilDonald posted:

The problem I've had with Craftsman ratchets lately is the little selector lever breaking off. They used to be pot metal, but now they're just plastic and come off easily. Then I take it to Sears and they won't exchange it on the spot anymore, they send it off somewhere and I get a rebuilt one in the mail like a month later.

Maybe that's just my Sears, but they've made it not worth the effort. I need to bite the bullet and chase down a Snapon truck.
I agree on the lovely new Craftsman ratchets. Avoid at all costs.

I recently discovered the Pittsburgh Professional swivel head ratchets at Harbor Freight. Quite good and $15-20/ea with the utility of a swivel head.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=96781
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=96782
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=96783

Korwen posted:

So this is the first time I've lived somewhere that I'm not 30mins away from a garage full of decent tools, which means it's time to start my own set. I have literally nothing, and am just looking for the basics.
I'm a fan of buying cheap until you know you'll be relying on it regularly. If it wears out, you know you need to buy better. If it lives, you saved some money. Plus you can just dump the cheap stuff on eBay/CL if you need to.

For sockets specifically, if you're thinking of going impact anytime soon, you may as well start with impact sockets.

Here are a couple of complete, cheap impact kits I found:
http://www.wescotools.com/p-7604-86...rsoll-rand.aspx
http://www.wescotools.com/p-8774-55...enius-tool.aspx

Speaking of impact stuff, anybody try Sunex stuff? They are a new brand to me, but the quality looks quite good for a reasonable price. Looks to be Taiwanese in origin and may be the same stuff as the high-end Harbor Freight (Pittsburgh Professional, Earthquake), but with a much larger catalog.

quote:

Also, with regards to wrenches, I see all kinds with weird ratcheting features, or the socket-style end rotated 90*, what are your feelings on these, improvement? Or just get the good ol' and simple?
Start with a classic, basic double-ended set. Once you have that, then consider the angled and/or ratcheting ones.

EnergizerFellow fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Sep 7, 2008

EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

Anybody try one of the cordless electric ratchets? The only 3/8" size that I can find are Ingersoll Rand and Makita at $130 and $200, respectively. A fairly shocking $280 and $400 if you have to buy the charger/battery kit and don't have other cordless tools.

http://www.irtools.com/IS/category.aspx-en-21885
http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=p..._det&tag=BTL063

Ridgid also has a 12V impact ratchet, but is hex drive and seems to be hard to find.

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/12-Volt...er/EN/index.htm

I'm semi-seriously thinking about an IR 1/2" cordless impact kit and the 3/8" ratchet.

EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

frozenphil posted:

Strip the truck down to the frame and body shell, find a local blaster, and haul it in to them. You should be able to get both done for around $500 to $750. I got my Mustang blasted for $400 because I went in during a slow time. If you want them to do a really good job, consider buying, renting, or building a rotisserie for your body so they can get all over the thing. They more than likely won't provide you one and will just shoot the body as it sits, not shooting any parts they can't get to easily.
This needs to be quoted as you really need a rotisserie. If you do buy one, you can get most of your money back on Craigslist, eBay, etc when you're done.

New one from Northern Tool for $950:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...30851_200330851

Wagonburner posted:

I bought 2 $40 or $50 orange colored electric impact wrenches at HF last year for my dad and brother for christmas. They use them all the time and I've had to borrow them a few times and they were always great.

[...]

A note to anyone considering an electric impact, make sure you look at and hold one in person, don't just order off the internet without ever having seen one. They're seriously huge, think about the biggest drill you've ever held and add 25%-50%. I'm holding out for air one when I get a comp sometime. too many places an electric wouldn't fit that an air would. I've been fortunate that the last few things I've done that absolutely required impact were things that I could take off the car and use my brother or dads electric impact on them.
Try looking into the Milwaukee electric impacts as they are significantly smaller and lighter than the HF units. I've owned a couple and they have been great for me and will put down an honest 300+ ft-lbs. Then again, that's the difference between a $150 impact and a $50 one.

Speaking of electric impacts, anybody try the Ingersoll Rand IQv cordless tools? They make what looks like the only true cordless impact ratchet that I can find with a small head and square drive.

http://www.irtools.com/IS/product.aspx-en-21718

EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

ACEofsnett posted:

Odd, I have that exact same unit and it has never worked well for me AT ALL. I always end up getting frustrated and bleeding brakes / clutches manually. The rubber fittings don't seem to be very pliable on mine, and nothing ever seals right. I've actually had better luck with a simple 'one man' bleeder, just a sealed cup with a tube.
Get some new lines. They must have hardened over time.

EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

trouser chili posted:

No I believe you, man. But I also wanted quieter and longer life, because the garage is under the kid's bedrooms and I usually keep my stuff a long long time.
I went looking into 120V portables a while back and the Makita MAC2400 looks to be the best out there. Tank volume may be a bit low for what you need, so do double-check that. Street price is around $320.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC240...r/dp/B0001Q2VPK

EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

mod sassinator posted:

New rotors for my GTO are around $500. drat Australian part markups.
I'm seeing under $500 for a complete set of 4. Where you shopping at?

EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

So what's everybody's take on the Matco 4S and 6S boxes? How about 2-bay 54" vs 3-bay 72"? Hutch vs. upper vs. stainless top? I can get various combinations locally used...

I've gotten to the point of too many portable boxes and carts to be manageable, plus I'm at the point that can justify buying an end-game box for myself at home. Regular residential 2-car garage too, so a 72" may be just too drat large?

Also, any quality alternatives to a Kennedy 620 3-drawer that isn't black or poo poo brown?

EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

Speaking of battery systems, what's the latest hot take on Makita's battery system and cordless tools in general these days? Worth it if you are going totally greenfield with no legacy and aren't sharing tools?

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EnergizerFellow
Oct 11, 2005

More drunk than a barrel of monkeys

Frank Dillinger posted:

It needs to maintain 14v on a car battery while control modules are being programmed, which means ignition on, lights on, for up to an hour and a half. During this time, battery voltage may not drop below 13v. I have a 25A charger, and that will get me ~12.5v or so.

There seems to be a large gap between consumer (5-25A) chargers and pro/shop level chargers. Consumer chargers also have a habit of not actually outputting the rates power, or deciding the battery is full and switching off.

Associated Equipment is the company you're looking for. They make portable chargers up to 100A continuous in various definitions of portable.

If you need a shelf-sized bench charger with explicit AGM and continuous-duty 13V @ 40A support, there's the Associated Equipment 9640 for ~$550 street. On the "dumb" end of the scale there's the ~$450 Associated Equipment 6010B with 6/12/24V @ 60/60/30A and a high/low 12V voltage selector.

EnergizerFellow fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Jul 2, 2019

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