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sharkytm posted:An Air ratchet is AWESOME for hard-to-get bolts. If you can wedge the air ratchet into position and hit the lever, it'll do the knuckle-busting for you. If you use one a lot, you learn to love it. This, a million loving times over. I had to take apart my driver's seat because 2 of the cables were pulling themselves out of the motor. I couldn't adjust the seat up to get at the screws. I spent like 30 minutes trying to turn 1 screw. There was barely enough room to turn the ratchet 1 click, only if I smashed my other hand in there to hold the socket and keep the slack out. I then went and grabbed my air ratchet with a swivel and had the other 3 screws in like 30 seconds. ease posted:Dremel tools are good for taking down toe nails. The only thing I've really used one for is slotting the heads to the screws on my friend's headlights because they were rusty as hell and they decided philips slots the size of a toothpick was a good idea. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jul 8, 2008 |
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Jul 8, 2008 22:10
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Is there such thing as a good 1/2" pneumatic impact gun for under 100 bucks? I currently have a super cheap like 15 dollar harbor freight one, and it's as worthless as it is huge and heavy. My friend has the Ingersoll Rand "Thunder Gun" from harbor freight which works awesome, but that was like $200 and I really don't see myself using it very often.
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Feb 11, 2009 10:23
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Maxwedge posted:Garage Journal and others say the Ingersoll Rand 231c is good ($110). Thinking about picking one up myself. That looks pretty nice for the price. Can't find anything but glowing reviews about it. I think I'll have to get it! Thanks.
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Feb 13, 2009 07:02
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What are the advantages and disadvantages of vacuum bleeding vs pressure bleeding (as in those fitted MC caps that hook to a compressor, not pedal pumping)? I want to pick up one or the other, and my last experience with a vacuum bleeder was my friend's lovely little craftsman hand pump. I know a mityvac or whatever has to be better than that, but is the pressure bleeder setup even better?
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Feb 13, 2009 11:07
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Lowclock posted:What are the advantages and disadvantages of vacuum bleeding vs pressure bleeding (as in those fitted MC caps that hook to a compressor, not pedal pumping)? I want to pick up one or the other, and my last experience with a vacuum bleeder was my friend's lovely little craftsman hand pump. I know a mityvac or whatever has to be better than that, but is the pressure bleeder setup even better? I was at Harbor Freight today and decided to pick up this. Looks pretty awesome. Don't have to keep topping up the MC, seems to be pretty universal, don't have to keep pumping a stupid little hand pump. I especially hated doing it with a vacuum pump because on most cars they seem to pull air in around the bleeder, which this shouldn't do. I'll post back with how well it works soon when I replace my 17 year old brake fluid (or should I wait another year and buy it a pack of smokes?).
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Feb 14, 2009 00:15
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Davus posted:Picked up a Harbor Freight engine stand, it was $50 plus tax. I think I had that exact same one. It does the job well enough, and it has no problem holding an LS1! Jonny 290 posted:Just don't wait four years, or it'll be old enough to go buy a pistol and get some revenge on your rear end!
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Feb 14, 2009 10:52
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Chauncey posted:I recently got a free double-diaphragm fluid pump. It moves something like 17 gpm which is way overkill for brakes, I'm sure. But it's free, and I'm wondering if using a ball valve to control the airflow into the pump, would I be able to use to to bleed my brakes? That pump looks like it might be able to evacuate with one side and pump with the other? If so, it would probably be pretty good for flushing transmissions and coolant systems.
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Feb 18, 2009 07:25
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oxbrain posted:Get yourself a digital gauge. I have this one, So do I! I got it for like 5 bucks like 10 years ago and it works awesome. I can go back and hit the same tire over and over and it comes up the same, and matches my other two nicer analog ones, a CH and a VDO.
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Feb 23, 2009 13:31
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Nevermind...
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 16:00
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I think it's just the way they feel because it's a different kind of mechanism than a standard ratchet. I've been doing that for years on my lovely 3/8" craftsman air ratchet so I could hopefully gently caress it up and have an excuse to buy a nice one, but it doesn't seem to affect it. Just keep your poo poo oiled and it probably doesn't matter what you do to it.
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Nov 27, 2009 20:07
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I got a 400watt DC-AC inverter from pep boys for $16.99. Anyone know a good place to find a single receptacle that's small and not ugly as poo poo?
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Nov 28, 2009 08:03
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ssh posted:Uh.. generic 15a black extension cord? Well yea I know I can hack something together but I wanted it to look nice and be safe. E34s have this little plastic bulkhead spot near the battery that would be perfect if I can find some way to mount a receptacle to it.
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Nov 29, 2009 08:07
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Uthor posted:(Craftsman 12-gal 5.0 peak hp) Knowing craftsman, it's probably 3728 watts at 0t , and 12 gallons of air at 200psi  EDIT: Also, I pulled the drain plug on one of my compressors after not draining it for like 6 years and nothing came out. No water, oil, rust, anything. It wasn't plugged or anything either. I stuck a piece of wire in there and it went right in and then I turned the compressor on and just air came out. This is on a lovely little 20gal Harbor-Freightish brand, oiled. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Dec 3, 2009 |
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Dec 3, 2009 20:23
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It was in northeastern Ohio for about 4 years and Arizona for 2. It doesn't get really heavy use. I probably cycle it like once a day average I'd say. It's a standing model and the drain plug is on the bottom of the tank. I just had to replace the case seal on the motor because it was leaking, but it was always full of oil. No dryer or filter. I was expecting some nasty poo poo but this is ok too! EDIT: The end of the drain plug was even like perfectly clean when I took it out too. Mystery Lowclock fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Dec 3, 2009 |
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Dec 3, 2009 20:58
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As long as it's not too small or too tight, you can take the end of a BIC pen and get it hot and melting and press it into the screw.
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Dec 5, 2009 19:03
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RealKyleH posted:Ive used it and it was worthless. I said that above. On the flipside, I have one and it works great. It's not the highest quality piece of equipment, but it works. Why didn't you like it?
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Jan 20, 2010 22:16
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Yea I was using mine mainly for drilling out rusty nuts and bolts and poo poo on my old Chevy, and drilling firewall holes for customers stereo installs. I don't really drill any super heavy duty stuff past that, but sharpening with the drill doctor definitely seemed to help a bunch when bits started slowing down. I use the cheapest lovely little HF drill bits though. Maybe they don't work so well on nice ones? Lowclock fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Jan 21, 2010 |
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Jan 21, 2010 14:13
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I'm guessing that intake manifold probably got thrown in a big media shaker if it wasn't just hella man-hours with grinders and poo poo. Like a much more industrial version of a little rock tumbler. Maybe you can find a machine shop (I used one refinishing bearings) or somewhere that will do that for you. Otherwise, there's tons of good google results for "polish cast aluminum" if you feel like torturing yourself and likely ruining a manifold or two by doing it manually.
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Mar 14, 2010 01:06
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sharkytm posted:You really can't gently caress up the manifold unless you punch a hole or gently caress up the flanges. I'm talking just visually not functionally, like if you accidentally made a nice gouge in it. Not like you can just throw some body filler in it.  Sock loves to torture himself working on rusted out husks of cars everyone else would have hauled to the wrecker, and he gave up on this, if that's any indication of how miserable this will be to do yourself.
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Mar 15, 2010 23:27
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Godholio posted:Hitting a chromed surface with a hardened hammer Who's doing that? This is what most people would call a dead blow hammer
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Apr 7, 2010 00:03
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BigKOfJustice posted:Is there a recommendation for a good ratcheting terminal crimper? I had it with the standard stamped metal things. The last one I used couldn't crimp butt connectors properly and actually bent while I was crimping a harness I've been using these for a long time and they still work just as well as the day I got them. No sense in wasting all that money on a brand name. EDIT: Yes I did read what he said. I used them for like a hundred crimps a day for years, and have never had a problem with any of them. I can't pull them back out of the connectors, and it doesn't mangle them or anything, so why should I, or anyone else who's not a machinist or something, care? Maybe just the set he got was lovely, because mine works just fine. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 18:50
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sharkytm posted:It depends on the batch, but I've gotten ones that didn't have holes molded in the heads, they were solid.... and useless because of it. Other times, they have been fine. I just buy bags of 1000 at home depot now. I got a big bag of the colored ones from there and they were garbage. Mine actually had holes in the head and threads on the strips, but they were so brittle that if you tried to tighten them down more than halfway down the strip, even without anything in them, the heads just snap off. Total poo poo.
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Apr 21, 2010 19:47
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Craftsman makes those little socket trays too, and they fit perfectly 1 wide in my portable tool box, and 2 wide in my huge rolling tool chest. They weren't too expensive, I think like $15 bucks for a set that covers about every possible size on 1/4" to 1/2" drive. Something else to check out if those Harbor Freight ones don't fit well for you. I freaking hate those little metal rail kind.
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Apr 23, 2010 20:13
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I just noticed my Hot Rod magazine (July '10) has the usual Harbor Freight coupon for 20% off any single item in it and also a coupon to get the 3000lb aluminum racing jack for $59.99 instead of $99. It's valid until like October too. Save a little money on a nice jack. Edit: Oh I guess it's in their online coupons too. Whatever. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 00:05 on May 23, 2010 |
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May 23, 2010 00:02
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Has anyone tried this powder coating setup? I'd love to use it to refinish some little brackets and stuff but I wanted to make sure it's not a total piece of crap if anyone knows.
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May 26, 2010 06:51
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I got the cheapo HF 1/4 Sheet Orbital Hand Sander yesterday. It was actually down to $7.99 at my local store. I don't even want to think about how long the little sheet clamps are going to last, and I cringe every time I turn it on, but it actually works pretty well. Threw some 60 grit on it to sand some MDF and it worked for a good five minutes and didn't start smoking or shatter or anything.
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May 30, 2010 04:56
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If you have a compressor, get this instead. It works pretty drat good. I did a full fluid change in like 15 minutes because I never had to stop to empty or fill anything.
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May 30, 2010 18:39
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How is the feel on the release of the aluminum racing jack from HF that everyone recommends? I've got an old craftsman jack that lifts poo poo fine and doesn't leak or anything, but it's annoying as gently caress to have to use a big pair of channel locks on the bar to get enough leverage to lower it slowly instead of just snapping open and free falling.
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Dec 27, 2010 23:48
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Jared592 posted:People Plasti-dipping all kinds of stuff these days: This is pretty freaking awesome, thanks for sharing this. I've been wondering what the BBSs on my e34 would look like in maybe white or black (probably poo poo). Maybe I'll go find out! EDIT: Oh god I kept reading. Plasti-dipped tail lights... Lowclock fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Dec 30, 2010 |
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Dec 30, 2010 10:38
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Raluek posted: 
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Dec 31, 2010 09:06
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sharkytm posted:has a MadCatz race pedal hooked up The gas or the brake? This is important.
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Jan 18, 2011 05:38
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This thing looks like a pretty awesome little interface setup. It doesn't seem to have the price listed for some reason, so I'm e-mailing them about that, but I'm really interested in this thing. Is there anything else similar/better on the market?
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May 10, 2011 02:01
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Does there exist any kind of tool that can help pulling off old dried/shrunken hoses? The other day I had to pull a fuel hose off a level sender and I had to literally stand on it and pull with both hands as hard as I could, even after getting it to turn so it wasn't stuck to the connector.
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May 22, 2011 00:14
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Besides cutting the hose.
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May 22, 2011 01:07
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Cakefool posted:I have a 36" breaker bar & sockets but I was under the impression I'd need impact, not leverage to shift bolts like this? Well technically you never HAVE to have an impact on a car at least. It sure as hell helps though. Seems to be better for not stripping threads or breaking bolts when removing, and you can do it with one hand instead of muscling up a huge bar. Impact, however, is the only way to go for stuff like crank bolts and hub nuts where you would otherwise have to figure out a way to keep it from spinning. E: VVV You could have gotten it off without the impact, you just didn't have the tools or couldn't figure it out! I still wouldn't bother trying and just hit it with the impact though. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 22:50 on May 30, 2011 |
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May 30, 2011 08:51
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Geoj posted:Depends on what you're doing. It is just putting lug nuts on or other non-precision fasteners (where "close enough" is fine) go for it, but I wouldn't put an engine back together with one. I've put a transmission and the bottom end of a motor together with cheapo harbor freight clickers. Neither had any problems from it. Some goon even tested them and made spreadsheets and poo poo and showed they were fine.
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Jun 12, 2011 02:27
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A cheap $10 mister hose thing and a $20 fan turns into a pretty nice ghetto air conditioner. It's actually hot and dry enough in AZ that it makes an enormous difference and means I can actually do some work during the day now.  Ugh.
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Jun 25, 2011 02:03
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Can anyone tell me about at-home powdercoating? From what I've read, it seems really easy to do. Strip it bare, clean and rough it up a little, coat it, then bake it to flow and cure it. Gun kits at HF are only like 70 bucks, and I could probably find a cheap oven on craigslist and use a probe to keep the temperature straight. Anyone else worked with these before?
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Jul 17, 2011 01:52
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Splizwarf posted:Don't do it in the house. Not only does it stink but it's toxic. And you have the right idea with a spare oven, because it will always smell that way after the first time. I was planning on using this for little brackets and stuff mainly, but I'd like to try some wheels I have been repairing and stripping too.
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Jul 21, 2011 19:16
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ASSTASTIC posted:Has anyone done a comparison of Por15 vs powder coating? Yeah, I know you get more color options out of powder coating, but I don't find powder coating nearly as hard as a layer of por15 epoxy paint. I've done a lot for POR-15 in the past and it's definitely very hard and durable, but turns to poo poo if it's something exposed to sunlight unless you top-coat, and that kind of defeats the purpose of using a very tough coating like powder or POR if it will just have weak regular paint on top. Not to mention POR-15 is expensive as gently caress and I wouldn't even be taking any advantage of it's rust neutralization/protection. I'd probably do just as well with any other epoxy paint as POR for this situation.
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Jul 22, 2011 19:11
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