|
What jack stands do all of you guys use? I'm tired of crushing the pinch seams on my car, and I haven't found much in the way of unibody-friendly stands.
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2010 22:31
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 10:06 |
|
|
wav3form posted:I use some Craftsman jack stands that i've owned for like 10 years. All of my cars have been unibody and there is always a place to put stands. You shouldn't use the pinch welds for stands. My FSM says otherwise (and says to use some non-existant stand adapter). I suppose I could put stands under the front cross-member where the jacking point is, but I prefer the idea of having the stands spaced as far apart as possible. As far as the rear end goes, I have absolutely no idea where else you could put the jack stands, since the jack point is the differential housing. (If anyone has an S14 240sx and has better suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.)
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2010 02:10
|
|
|
wav3form posted:I see... My VW has a few good spots for jack stands but I suppose other cars may not. What do other owners of 240SXs do??? On the S13 the stand point is actually the frame rails. However, on the S14 (what I have), the frame rails are not structural components (read: paper thin) so that's out. I think most of the drifter crowd doesn't care if they can't change a flat on the side of the road so they're fine with destroying the pinch seam. I'm honestly not sure what everyone does. Whenever I've asked this question on the local 240sx forum I get funny looks.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2010 02:17
|
|
|
wav3form posted:I googled and other owners use the subframe. Here's a link I found with an official looking picture from a manual of some kind. Rhyno posted:I use these I found that Zilvia thread a few days ago and was considering those Harbor Freight rubber pads, but I would also need to get the matching stands. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to have them as I would definitely use them over my crappy ramps + slick garage floor. The only issue I've had with making my own pads out of hockey pucks or wood is that I wasn't sure how to get a good interface/mating surface with the stand I was using. I felt that it seemed sort of precarious to balance the car between stands and a block where nothing mates up very well.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2010 23:32
|
|
|
Kynetx posted:I don't think a 240SX is a solid axle. Sounds dicey to me. Right, lifting from the pumpkin is perfectly fine. But putting stands under the pumpkin or the half shafts sounds like an easy way to ruin your day. I did find these stands, but at $90 a piece I don't think I'll be buying them any time soon.  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200358558_200358558 These could be good, but I'd need to go find some rubber blocks or buy a few hockey pucks.  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200313386_200313386
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2010 03:42
|
|
|
Coasterphreak posted:I've been looking into getting some tools of my own, so that I don't have to keep borrowing my father's. Does anybody have recommendations on a good starter metric set of crescent/socket wrenches that falls somewhere between the bottom shelf at Harbor Freight and Snap On in price? Check your local Craigslist listings. Periodically you'll find people selling their tools, and often there are guys selling big sets of Snap On tools.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2010 20:17
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:What I was getting at is that with other poisons you get symptoms, with lead you go "hmm, am I dumber today?" every time you forget something or can't think straight or etc. Oh god constant nagging worry! Are you sure you're not confusing lead poisoning with mercury poisoning? Or is mercury poisoning just the one where you start forgetting things... like the alphabet?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2010 17:51
|
|
|
I bought the Harbor Freight 1/2" corded impact wrench: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-electric-impact-wrench-45252.html And it is absolutely useless. It couldn't break free the bolts for my rear struts, and it couldn't loosen the bolts on my exhaust, even after copious amounts of PB blaster so I'm going to try and take it back. I found it was easier just to use my breaker bar and some elbow grease. Am I using it wrong? I think a wiser financial decision would be to just save up and buy an air compressor and assorted air tools.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2010 21:16
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:More like Snap-Off I think his problem was that he was using a 7mm.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2010 03:17
|
|
|
I want to pick up a wet/dry vacuum this weekend to use around my house, clean out my car, etc. I'm having a hard time determining what volume I should get, but according to consumer reports you have to get something with a capacity > 10 gallons to score very well. The highest rated models on CR are made by Rigid and sold at Home Depot. I was looking at the Shop Vac brand at Ace Hardware yesterday, but I wasn't able to come to any real conclusion. Motor peak horse power is also related to capacity. With the smaller models making somewhere between 3-4 HP and the large capacity models making 5.5-6+ HP. Do any of you guys have recommendations for brands/models for general use?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2011 23:18
|
|
|
Holyshit. Yeah, $400 is out of my budget. I bought an $80 Rigid 12 gallon model. I think it will meet my needs. That box shaped one looks pretty nifty though. Edit: I may head back to Home Depot and check out that box, but 16 gallons is pretty drat huge. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Nov 27, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2011 05:00
|
|
|
I'm only finding the 4.5 gallon model. Are you sure they make a larger version?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2011 05:49
|
|
|
Can I ask questions about table saws, and which one to buy in this thread?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 26, 2015 07:59
|
|
|
Is the CDI torque wrench the way to go as far as made in the USA ones go, or is the a more budget friendly option? It looks like the 30-250 lbs-ft model on Amazon is listed at $195 and there's a 20% off coupon for it when I checked earlier today.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2017 01:01
|
|
|
What sort of socket, torx, etc. Tools and sizes should I have on hand to work on a 2016 TTS? We have some maintenance package for a few years coming, but say I need to change a wheel, torque lug bolts, or remove the under tray, or for some reason I wanted to change the oil, etc.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2019 20:18
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Metric hex, torx, and triple square should get you most of the way. I haven't seen anything on my VW that wasn't available in a general set, size wise. I've got a hex and SAE set, but practically nothing in the way of torx and zero triple square. Are there any particular sets or sizes that I should pick up in these tools?
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2019 07:22
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:VIM tools for triple square/XZN. Mine have taken off close to a dozen VW heads, and loads of VW inner CV joints. Nary a mark on them. What about GVIM?
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2019 15:43
|
|
|
I have a conventional oil drain pan that I think holds 12 qts or so. So, it doesn't have the flat top surface to rest a spin on oil filter to drain. Short of buying another drain pan, is there a tool or hack to drain a spin on filter that doesn't involve holding it over the pan for a few minutes while I burn my fingerprints off?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2019 18:14
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:put filter into a funnel which will drain into the container you put used oil into I realized that this was probably the right answer. My friend bought a 4 post lift and a QuickJack so I've been doing some maintenance at his place but I gotta BYO my own oil pan and things so while I have some spare jugs and stuff at my place, I forgot to bring them last time. Geoj posted:Expanded metal sheet over the top of the drain pan, then set the filter upside down on it to drain for hours/days/weeks/etc. This isn't and awful idea though. Thanks
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2019 18:32
|
|
|
Do y'all have any recommendations for brushes/attachments for shop vacs that make them better for getting debris out of the car carpet? I've got a big rigid shop vac, but always get frustrated when I'm trying to clean my interior.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2019 18:03
|
|
|
Stop posting all this screw driver porn. I'm going to be tempted to actually buy quality tools and throw away my lovely, free Harbor Freight ones.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2019 23:14
|
|
|
Mercury Ballistic posted:There is a joke here somewhere, but I am not a clever man. StormDrain posted:I would have lost my poo poo if I was there in person. IDGI
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2019 03:31
|
|
|
Can anyone help me locate whatever this scraping tool is called for cleaning out corrosion and dirt in the channels that the brake caliper seals sit in? Preferably sold in the US. I'm kicking myself 'cause I just bought a new set of brake caliper pistons from WeBike, and I didn't even know about this tool. Of course, searching their site I can't even find them for sale so  https://japan.webike.net/moto_news/...ols-or-brushes/ Images from that article:     Edit: I found them on Amazon Japan, but I'm not sure how difficult or costly it is to order those to the US vs using something like an allen key https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/STRAIGHT-Caliper-Hojiro-19-3300-Motorcycle/dp/B07ZRBSLCV MetaJew fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Jan 5, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2023 04:53
|
|
|
MRC48B posted:Buy a cheap allen key set or right angle screwdriver and grind to size. I've got plenty of allen keys. I will probably give that a shot.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2023 05:20
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 10:06 |
|
|
Is there a decent namebrand pair of safety wire pliers out there, that's also a reasonable price? I hate my Harbor Freight ones. They're very hard to lock, and they don't like to hold onto the wire. Google (and Amazon) seem to mostly, only pull up cheapo models, or $120+ aircraft tools.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2023 08:30
|
|