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Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I don't use those in particular, but I use triple-flange silicone plugs all the time for loud tools, movie theaters, rock concerts, and, back in the day, my kid's orchestra concerts.

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Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

slidebite posted:

Probably not. In my experience most air tools still use tapered pipe threads for 90% of them. But like has been said, if it's a cone/seat or uses a seal, no, you don't need nor should use thread tape.

The problem with tape on hydraulics is people put on too much and overhangs the threads and small pieces can get into the system. Hydraulic valves in particular do not like teflon tape and can easily hang up a spool.

This stuff is not exactly high precision equipment, but some servo valves can be worth $thousands$ per and some tape in the system will gently caress it up.

Yeah, they work as advertised. I suppose I could believe 80lbs. I still want to make some new/better hoses up for mine and route the little powerpack and hoses somewhere out of the way. Regarding height, yeah, sure, if you have the height to spare between the collapsed QJ and the frame of your vehicle, I suppose you could block it right up. For someone like me with the 996, there simply isn't the room to do that, but if you do, it should work. I think QJ sells larger blocks for that reason.

Drive the 996 onto ramps for more clearance over the quickjack! What could go wrong?

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

mod sassinator posted:

If you want to throw some money at it for convenience, a 18-20V lithium battery impact driver makes short work of removing the lugs (and is a handy thing for other bolts). If it's a car I care about I'd still use the manual torque wrench to put them back on.

I just got an impact driver and I love it for getting lug nuts off. For putting them back on, I am firmly on team cordless drill to install and torque wrench to tighten to spec.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

um excuse me posted:

Hi tool thread, my spice rack is out of control. I post this in the tool thread because I'm thinking some sort of tool organizer might be the right solution for my drawer based storage.

I bought one of these for my kitchen and I have been absolutely happy with it.

https://www.verticalspice.com/?mscl...ertical%20Spice

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I wish Wera made a set of lasercut bits I could put in my existing 1/4" hex drive tools.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Anyone have strong opinions about code reader dongles for iPhones? I'm thinking about buying one for a friend. She doesn't work on her car but now that her teenage son has his own shitbox, something that can tell the difference between "do not drive except to a mechanic" and "ain't nothin' to lose sleep over" would be very useful for her.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Cat Hatter posted:

Eh, I'd lean more towards "it depends". Twice I've have a flashing cel because of a "multiple misfire" right after my right and left feet not synchronizing as I let out the clutch and almost stalling. On the other hand, I used to have a solid cel for a cylinder 8 misfire accompanied by a code for a problem with that particular coil pack which not only narrows possibilities down considerably, but let's me know I can continue driving to my destination, but should probably fix things quicker than if it was an evap leak.

If nothing else, it would give the teen something to google while he's waiting for a tow truck.

So I acknowledge that I used a bit too much hyberbole, but my experience has been that a code reader + Google will usually give me a rough sense of what's likely to be going on. My kid's old Subaru through a couple difference exhaust-related codes over its life, and it was always pretty clear that it was fine for them to drive the car back and forth to work while we waited for a mechanic to have time to look at it. When my Miata threw a code for the cam position sensor, that for me was a "drive only to mechanic" code.

Uthor, Krakkles, thanks for the recommendations.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I've got a GFCI outlet in my bathroom that pops whenever I turn my Wahl trimmer off. Running the trimmer is fine, turning the trimmer on is fine, turning the trimmer off is not fine. Pretty confident that is not an outlet problem.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

ryanrs posted:

Might be solvable with just a capacitor or tvs diode across the motor terminals? If you're down to do trimmer surgery and post pics of the guts, I can suggest circuit modifications and show you where to get the parts.

Thanks but I just deal with it by unplugging the trimmer before turning it off. I only posted to provide an extra data point for the discussion.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

sharkytm posted:

This is a bad idea. You're arcing the terminals inside the receptacle every time you do this, which will burn them out/cause a fire eventually. The trimmer is hosed and either throwing a huge EMF spike or has a damaged power switch where something hot is touching something not when the switch is moved from on to off. Replace the trimmer and I'll bet the problem magically disappears. They're $20...

I did not know it was an issue. Thanks.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I've got an AC inflator that works, and a cordless inflator that works VERY slowly, but the idea of a cordless one that would work as well as an AC model but let me check tires curbside is kind of motivating.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Uncle Enzo posted:

.
What cordless inflator do you have now that isn't working?

It's a little Tacklife model, meant more for bikes or emergency use in cars. It's not comparable to anything that uses tool batteries. Still works but it runs less than half as fast as my Kobalt AC-powered inflator.

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Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

MrChips posted:

if you wish to make a toolbox, you must first invent the universe

Which has been widely regarded as a mistake.

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