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Sterndotstern posted:Easily, but why? My preference is to pick up a well-used 150k '95 for $7k, drop $2500 of suspension, refreshed bushings, and Conforti intake/chip/injectors in it. That's some SERIOUS value for <$10k. I think it's hard to justify picking up a 150-200k mileage BMW _if_ there's few or no maintenance records for it. That'd be the problem for me, anyways. Granted, a newer car with fewer miles is no sure deal either. Just fewer records to be missing.
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Aug 10, 2008 23:33
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kimbo305 posted:I think it's hard to justify picking up a 150-200k mileage BMW _if_ there's few or no maintenance records for it. That'd be the problem for me, anyways. Granted, a newer car with fewer miles is no sure deal either. Just fewer records to be missing. With $2500, you can pretty much address everything that needs addressing: a Bentley manual, cooling, suspension, bushings front and rear, fluids etc. Obviously you need to test drive the car before buying it, but the base mechanicals are really stout. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 15-year-old M3 with 10,000 track miles on it. I've had a few E36s, and when I buy a car I always do the following: get a history report, get a few good pictures of it. If it's worth seeing, prior to test driving it, inspect the car with a pair of gloves, a jack, and a flashlight. Check for all the common issues underneath the car (leaking/blown dampers, worn bushings, bald/feathered tires, leaks from anywhere). Before you lower it down, wiggle the wheels to feel for play in the balljoints, then check the wheel bearings. Check for a lip on the brake rotor edge. Then pop the hood. Check the radiator & the thermostat housing. Check the radiator overflow tank for coolant level, powersteering and brake fluid. Check the oil and air filter. Then drive it and pay attention for any obvious issues with alignment, transmission, and engine. If any E36 - say, a 210k '93 - can get through this inspection, I say buy it.
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Aug 11, 2008 04:21
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So, I killed my car. And I always wanted a bimmer. Looking at spending $10-15k for the vehical and one thing under consideration are 1999-2002ish 5-series wagons; I need to haul stuff and kind of like the wagon anyhow. First, let me know if I am a goddamn idiot for even considering this angle. Second, what does one look for in a used beamer?
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Aug 11, 2008 14:32
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Sterndotstern posted:With $2500, you can pretty much address everything that needs addressing: a Bentley manual, cooling, suspension, bushings front and rear, fluids etc. Obviously you need to test drive the car before buying it, but the base mechanicals are really stout. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 15-year-old M3 with 10,000 track miles on it. As long as the body is straight, and the engine shows good compression, everything that could be wrong is relatively easy to fix. That is, if one has the know-how already to perform the work required.
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Aug 11, 2008 14:41
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Sterndotstern posted:With $2500, you can pretty much address everything that needs addressing: a Bentley manual, cooling, suspension, bushings front and rear, fluids etc. Obviously you need to test drive the car before buying it, but the base mechanicals are really stout. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 15-year-old M3 with 10,000 track miles on it. I guess my problem is, the quantity of local E36s is far outweighed by the eBay/Autotrader quantity. Sure I could pay for an independent inspection, but I'd never trust it as much as looking at things for myself. Plus I'm losing ~$100 per car that doesn't pan out.
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Aug 11, 2008 17:01
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wwb posted:So, I killed my car. And I always wanted a bimmer. Looking at spending $10-15k for the vehical and one thing under consideration are 1999-2002ish 5-series wagons; I need to haul stuff and kind of like the wagon anyhow. First, let me know if I am a goddamn idiot for even considering this angle. Second, what does one look for in a used beamer? You are looking at the 540i wagon, right? If so, its pretty much the same stuff as the 540i (cooling system, suspension bushing, blank lines on the radio display, etc and so forth). I found at least the 2002 models of 540 wagon and X5 4.4 to be very similar, and even back then the X5 was far less expensive, and I would bet that you could find an incredible deal on an X5 4.4i what with the SUV market pretty much tanked. For either just make sure you have full maintenance records. If you are lucky you might be able to find something that has a few months left on the extended warranty if the original owner bought it (or has just come off warranty so any repairs would already be done).
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Aug 11, 2008 17:42
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Ultimate Mango posted:You are looking at the 540i wagon, right? If so, its pretty much the same stuff as the 540i (cooling system, suspension bushing, blank lines on the radio display, etc and so forth). Watch out for the rear air suspension on the US E39 540 wagons. They all came with it, and usually its not really a problem. But when it is, its expensive to repair.
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Aug 11, 2008 18:30
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Thanks for the tips guys. Actually looking more at 525/528 wagons, mainly because I have not seen a 540 for sale around here. I'll take a look at X5s as well, though I hate being high up. I've heard they drive like sedans though. Is there any good resource to look over before test driving stuff to help spot these issues? And is there a list of maintenance that should have been done anywhere online?
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Aug 11, 2008 19:47
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I'm struggling with getting the oxygen sensor out on my E30. It's a single pipe all the way back and the sensor is right on the top of it. I have enough room to get the slotted socket on it, but not enough room to get a ratchet on it. I've tried taking a wrench to it, but it keeps sliding off or rounds the corners. I've soaked it in PB Blaster but the fucker just won't budge. Tips?
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Aug 12, 2008 16:51
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm struggling with getting the oxygen sensor out on my E30. It's a single pipe all the way back and the sensor is right on the top of it. I have enough room to get the slotted socket on it, but not enough room to get a ratchet on it. I've tried taking a wrench to it, but it keeps sliding off or rounds the corners. I've soaked it in PB Blaster but the fucker just won't budge. Tips? I used an open ended wrench and a Big loving Hammer to knock it loose. Alternatively if that doesn't work, maybe give this a try.
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Aug 12, 2008 18:15
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:I used an open ended wrench and a Big loving Hammer to knock it loose. Welp, I needed a reason to buy more tools from them... Thanks
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Aug 12, 2008 18:24
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm struggling with getting the oxygen sensor out on my E30. You could saw off the top of the sensor (above the hex part), and put on a 6 point shallow socket (Or cut off a deep socket) and then maybe fit the ratchet on. Do not bother using a slotted socket to get the old one out, the old sensor is junk anyway, and I have had slotted sockets deform while removing O2 sensors. Swap_File fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Aug 12, 2008 |
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Aug 12, 2008 18:26
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E46 Sedan, OBC I think In a fit of nerd rage I broke the turn signal indicator stalk. I already got a replacement but I'm trying to figure out how to get back there, any ideas/guides/forums? I see the screws that I need to remove but it's too tight in there, do I really need to take off the whole steering wheel? I don't have the tools for that and don't want to mess with the air bag.
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Aug 12, 2008 23:33
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3363 posted:E46 Sedan, OBC I think There really is no choice. if you don't have the sport wheel, it should be two T30 torx screws holding the airbag in place, with holes to access them on either side on the back. Just disconnect the battery before you do this. Then, it should be a simple connector for the airbag. Disconnect that, and the airbag can now be fully removed. It should be either a 15 or 16 mm nut holding the wheel in place. Take the wheel off, but be aware of the center position of the clock spring behind it. The purpose of the clock spring is to allow electrical connection between the steering wheel and the car, while allowing steering wheel rotation. If you lose your center position and accidently rotate it, you could damage the wiring inside. Next, there should be a plastic phillips screw on top, and maybe a couple of long plastic rivets on the bottom. Remove the plastic screw with the plastic expander clip it goes into, then push the center of the rivets on the bottom in. They should fall out. After this, pull both halves of the steering column trim apart and you should have access to whatever you need to replace. If you have to remove the clock spring, be very careful. There's a clip that holds it in the center position when you remove the steering wheel, but you can never be too safe.
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Aug 13, 2008 00:24
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Lufiron posted:There really is no choice. if you don't have the sport wheel, it should be two T30 torx screws holding the airbag in place, with holes to access them on either side on the back. Just disconnect the battery before you do this. Then, it should be a simple connector for the airbag. Disconnect that, and the airbag can now be fully removed. It should be either a 15 or 16 mm nut holding the wheel in place. Take the wheel off, but be aware of the center position of the clock spring behind it. The purpose of the clock spring is to allow electrical connection between the steering wheel and the car, while allowing steering wheel rotation. If you lose your center position and accidently rotate it, you could damage the wiring inside. Next, there should be a plastic phillips screw on top, and maybe a couple of long plastic rivets on the bottom. Remove the plastic screw with the plastic expander clip it goes into, then push the center of the rivets on the bottom in. They should fall out. After this, pull both halves of the steering column trim apart and you should have access to whatever you need to replace. If you have to remove the clock spring, be very careful. There's a clip that holds it in the center position when you remove the steering wheel, but you can never be too safe. Thanks a lot, this writeup goes perfect with some pictures I found. I think I'll try it tomorrow. It's stupid that I kept giving it to the mechanic when it's one of the most well documented cars online.
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Aug 13, 2008 01:21
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3363 posted:Thanks a lot, this writeup goes perfect with some pictures I found. I think I'll try it tomorrow. It's stupid that I kept giving it to the mechanic when it's one of the most well documented cars online. I just retrofitted my e46 to replace the original stalk (non-OBC) with the OBC enabled stalk the other week and took some pictures, so if you need any extra illustrations let me know. I took quite a few for the purpose of creating a DIY.
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Aug 13, 2008 05:02
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The BMW quest continues. Went to a dealer and drove a few different 5-series models and figured out that the 530i is my huckleberry. Got a few lined up to look at this weekend. Two questions: 1) Am I nuts for buying one with 95k miles or so? 2) How difficult/expensive/dangerous is it to hook up an iPod to the stereo with USB integration. Or is that a "just go buy an aftermarket head unit" solution?
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Aug 13, 2008 18:47
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wwb posted:1) Am I nuts for buying one with 95k miles or so? 1. No idea, but being a BMW I6 at least the engine should be solid. 2. Trivial. I installed a DICE HD unit in my E46 about 30 minutes at night in the middle of winter without needing a single tool. iPod over the dock interface with ID3 tags on the display and steering wheel control, plus HD Radio and an Aux input. edit: that does not apply if you're looking at the current generation, they're all using a fiber optic system rather than I-Bus.
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Aug 14, 2008 00:23
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^^^Cool, thanks. Looking at e39s, so I think that I should be all good on the stereo stuff.
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Aug 14, 2008 01:03
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X3: Stay away, or good buy? I have a second kid on the way, so I'm selling my GTI, I should get about 5500 for it, so that'll be my down payment on our next car. My budget is $15-20k (including the $5500 down). I'm seeing a decent amount of X3s with low miles in the sub-20k range, as well as the occasional 3-series AWD wagon. We do some whitewater kayaking & cycling, so a wagon or SUV is what will suit us best. Originally I was looking at 5-series sedans but I think I feel better about spending a bit more on a low mileage newer car. I used to work for a BMW dealership but that was back in the E36 era so I'm not really up to snuff on the current generations of BMWs, so any feedback on X3 reliability/etc would be appreciated.
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Aug 14, 2008 06:55
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I found a local E30 325i convertible in decent cosmetic condition, but great mechanical condition with about 100k miles on it. It's listed at right under $2k USD, and I want a car to take to the track every now and then. I am in the market for either a BMW or a 944 turbo, but BMW's seem to be easier to come by, and the parts are a decent deal cheaper. I'll of course take it to a European garage around here, but assuming all is good and well with the car, what do you guys think? Also, what should I look out for? Any small gremlins I should know about that pop up in that year/body style?
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Aug 14, 2008 20:56
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Beware: BMWCCA pretty much forbids convertibles at their track events, last I checked. As much as I love convertibles for the road (I own one), for a track car get a solid roof. It'll save you a lot of headache. Edit: Googled a bit, and it seems like BMWCCA is usually okay with convertibles only if you install a good roll bar. But even still, sometimes they will outright forbid convertibles. Guinness fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Aug 14, 2008 |
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Aug 14, 2008 20:59
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schultzi posted:I found a local E30 325i convertible in decent cosmetic condition... at right under $2k USD Sounds like a winner. Give it a good general inspection, but if it's solid, I'd snatch it up. If you're going to the track, really, really consider a decent custom-welded roll bar. Figure on spending ~$1k-$2k for design and install. It's worth it for the vast improvement in safety and handling it will provide, since it will significantly strengthen the chassis as well as preventing your head from going splat in a rollover. Edit: ^^^ that's a problem, hmm.
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Aug 14, 2008 21:04
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Sterndotstern posted:that's a problem, hmm. Check out your local PCA. Fortunately for me, PCA allows cars with factory pop-up protection, and they run most of the DEs that happen locally anyway. So for me it's only a small loss that BMWCCA is so prissy about roll bars.
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Aug 14, 2008 22:03
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SlapActionJackson posted:Check out your local PCA. Fortunately for me, PCA allows cars with factory pop-up protection, and they run most of the DEs that happen locally anyway. So for me it's only a small loss that BMWCCA is so prissy about roll bars. Aren't PCAs sorta make-exclusive?
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Aug 14, 2008 23:35
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kimbo305 posted:Aren't PCAs sorta make-exclusive? You must own a Porsche to join the club, but you do not have to be a PCA member to take part in their DEs (at least here). There are all kinds of different makes that participate in the DEs - Porsches only make up 50% or so, and there are lots of BMWs.
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Aug 15, 2008 01:46
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Craptacular posted:I'm thinking about getting a used '06 330i or '07 328i. Are there any potential problems that I should be looking out for?
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Aug 15, 2008 02:49
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Just made a deal on a 2002 530. Looks like she will pass inspection, but in case I need some work done, does anyone know of a good BMW shop, preferably somewhere in downtown DC or at least reasonably close-in and metro accessible?
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Aug 17, 2008 01:16
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Anyone know of a good way to find a junkyard that'll let me take part of a car? I need a new sunroof cartridge for an E36, and I'm not about to pay the $1000+ that a dealership would want, considering most of my old parts are good with the exception of the bowden cables.
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Aug 17, 2008 03:17
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Pissingintowind posted:Anyone know of a good way to find a junkyard that'll let me take part of a car? I need a new sunroof cartridge for an E36, and I'm not about to pay the $1000+ that a dealership would want, considering most of my old parts are good with the exception of the bowden cables. Try calling Bavarian Auto Recycling - their prices aren't rock bottom but they're pretty reasonable.
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Aug 17, 2008 05:33
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Art Vandelay posted:Try calling Bavarian Auto Recycling - their prices aren't rock bottom but they're pretty reasonable. They're pretty close to rock bottom. I had to replace the right-rear axle in my 330Ci. It uses a different axle from the 323/325/328, and the only way I could get it was either from a dealership or from pelican parts on special order from BMW for $260 or something like that. Got it for $180 including overnight shipping from BAR.
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Aug 17, 2008 06:41
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"[chavez posted:"] STAY AWAY FROM THE X3. It has had many, many problems and it's an all-around awful car. If you want an SUV, get an X5. If you want a wagon, get a 3- or 5- series iT.
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Aug 17, 2008 08:17
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Nait Sirhc posted:STAY AWAY FROM THE X3. It has had many, many problems...
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Aug 17, 2008 14:24
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Mad Dragon posted:Like what? Panoramic sunroofs and seat occupancy mats don't count, because those problems aren't limited to X3s. I agree with MD here. X3s are based on the E46 to an extent, and are pretty reliable. They're also developed by Magna Steyr, which explains the X3's structural rigidity. Its the X5s you want to watch out for, but even then they're not too bad either.
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Aug 17, 2008 17:14
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Lufiron posted:Its the X5s you want to watch out for, but even then they're not too bad either.
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Aug 17, 2008 18:06
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Thanks a lot for the tips above, just finished putting in the new turn signal stalk. Although on the way out I broke the top off of one of the 4 screws, didn't think I had the strength to do that. It's still in tight so as long as I don't have to go in there again then it's fine. I'm also trying to fix my front passenger window regulator but the metal wire is chewed up and bent with broken strands in places. Think it's worth it to try to align everything? It seems a little too screwed up to reuse. I probably went past the damage threshold for the ziptie method.
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Aug 17, 2008 20:41
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3363 posted:I'm also trying to fix my front passenger window regulator but the metal wire is chewed up and bent with broken strands in places. Think it's worth it to try to align everything? It seems a little too screwed up to reuse. I probably went past the damage threshold for the ziptie method. At this point, its time for a new regulator. Unless you want to attempt to 're-lace' the regulator with new wire, but then again the time and effort is probably be more than just buying a new one. Be careful with the glass.
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Aug 17, 2008 22:41
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Does anyone know the Transmission gear oil and Diff. fluid capacity on an E39 M5? google fails me most likely because its got "lifetime fluid"
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Aug 17, 2008 22:44
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Im heading out of town on thursday to take a look at a 1998 m3 (64k). But one of the pictures im looking at shows the floor on the drivers side, and it looks all hosed up, dirty or whatever but i cant tell what im really looking at.  It almost looks like rust...dirt...or maybe even sunlight? Also the part where your foot could rest while driving looks all smashed and bent, but i dont know how/why that would happen. Does anyone have any idea what this stuff might be?
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Aug 17, 2008 23:12
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Arwox posted:Does anyone have any idea what this stuff might be? You mean the plastic covering?
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Aug 17, 2008 23:16
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