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My previous car, a 1993 530i V8. 3-liter 32 valve aluminum V8 with 218hp and 290nm. 5-speed manual. M5 seats, dual zone AC, 10-speaker stereo, cruise control. Would only run properly on 98 octane (european rating), so it was probably tuned. 12 previous owners in Sweden, God knows how many it had in Germany. Had it for a year, spent all the money in the world on maintenance (clutch apparently made of pure gold), and would do it again in a heartbeat.      It ended it days being parted out in Norway, with the gearbox going to a manual conversion for a 540. The E90's are starting to fall in price now, so I am planning to get a 2005 325 when I sell my Saab, unless that perfect E34 M5 or 540/6 comes along...
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Mar 28, 2008 11:13
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Some fun bits from Norway: A girl I know, with a BMW cake on her birthday. She's a total BMW nut:  Her car, a 320i 2,2:  Alo belonging to a friend of mine: A 1975 BMW 3,0CSi: - 1986 745i (M30B35 w/turbo) engine. - Electromotive (Tec 2) engine management - Lowering springs, special Konis. - Recaro seats up front. - 18" Rial wheels w/Falken tires. He got this as a trade-in on his 2004 M3 CSL. In addition he has a 1995 M5 touring and an E30 M3. And by the way, he's the one who ordered the cake    
evobatman fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Jun 9, 2008 |
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Jun 8, 2008 18:27
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I'm just quoting what the owner wrote himself, I can check that up later.
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Jun 8, 2008 18:47
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Of course he made money on the CSL, and he received it as is.
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Jun 8, 2008 20:27
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exempt posted:Well, three weeks ago I found it. IT is a 1997 M3 Sedan, in Arctic Silver. The body on the car is immaculate, and it drives like a dream. It was also completely unmolested, not a mod on the car besides clear corners and smoked tail lights. And the best part was the milage and price combo. 78,500 miles on the car, and I got it at a price of 10,500. Wait, what? Auto M3?? Ninjaedit: SMG maybe.
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Jun 21, 2008 11:31
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This thread makes me want to sell my $22500 Saab and pick up a $3000 E36 
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Jul 13, 2008 22:56
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CornHolio posted:How does the S-class or A8 fare compared to the 7-series in those terms? The 7 series is for those who like sitting behind the wheel. The S class is for those who like sitting behind the driver.
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Aug 26, 2008 08:50
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I just had a birthday, so I decided to buy this for myself: 1995 BMW 323i, 100k miles, single owner and full BMW service history. One of the very very few unmolested E36s in existence. 2,5 liter torquey straight-six with 170 horsepower and manual transmission.  Price? 59800 NOK. £6000. $10,000. Grey cloth, manual windows, no AC. I think the only luxury on it might be central locking, which of course is not remote-controlled. We Norwegians get raped on car taxes, hence the high price. Also, everyone in this country thinks that their BMWs are made of gold, so the same amount of money usually gets you a riced-out 91-92 318 or 320i with 150 000 miles on it. Plans are to keep it stock, since original E36s are rare, and it will help resale value. I haven't even driven it, just called the dealer and said I'll take it. Papers are signed, and delivery is sometime around the middle of next week. Reading through this thread has given me tons of nerves about stuff that could be or go wrong with it, but it was sold new and always serviced at the BMW dealer here, and hopefully being a later E36 will help too. Right? Right? 
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Jan 29, 2010 19:54
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Pilsner posted:Congrats, fellow Scandinavian living in car hell (except those drat lucky Swedes). That sounds crazy though, I paid 44500 DKK for my E34 540 with lots of equipment, although 160k miles), I guess BMWs command a relatively higher price up there. Thanks man! I used to live in Sweden, and had a 33000 SEK 1993 530i manual Touring. Shadowline with black sports leather, cruise control, 10-speaker stereo and biggest computer. Best E34 I ever drove, didn't have the slack in the steering that they usually develop, even at 200k miles. We can show off here, can't we?  
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Jan 30, 2010 10:01
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Well, you can't have her, and neither can anyone else!
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Jan 30, 2010 18:27
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Sterndotstern posted:Holy poo poo. What happened!? It did develop a ton of problems that weren't worth fixing and every single panel had rust, so I sold it to a guy who parted it out and used parts from it to convert a 540 from automatic to manual transmission. His father had a bonfire going nearby the shell, and an aerosol can blew up and flew into it. All parts had been removed, so the only casualties were the almost new tires and the engine that was still in good shape. At least bits of it live on in other E34s around the country.
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Jan 30, 2010 19:13
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evobatman posted:I just had a birthday, so I decided to buy this for myself: Quoting from a month ago, but I finally took delivery of this today - almost! It lasted around 15 miles before the radiator neck broke and steam was everywhere The dealer will look at it tomorrow, but I am picturing yet another weekend without a car The engine was incredibly nice though, and it felt nice and compact and solid to drive, no creaks or squeaks or noises. A slight vibration could be felt in the suspension, but I will have an alignment done at a specialist.
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Feb 25, 2010 19:18
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 Behold the increasingly rare completely stock E36 air filter box!
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Mar 21, 2010 12:44
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Pilsner posted:Needs more V8. I had one of those too!
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Mar 22, 2010 09:54
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This is pretty neat. So far I have used it to reset error codes and airbag lights on my own E36, an E34 M5 and a Z3 2,8 Coupe. The included software is totally  , but it works.
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Apr 4, 2010 21:56
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wolrah posted:Did that one come with the OBD-II end? Yep, it's in the box. Still haven't tried it myself though. Also, the supplied software has lots of functions for E39 models. It even has some stuff for early E6x models and iDrive, up to 6/2004 I believe it says. Edit: Also scored a set of used 8*17" BBS RX204 with 215/45-17 Falken tires with plenty of rubber left for $300 today! Some guy got them on a car he bought once, and they had just been taking up space in his garage, so he decided to throw them on our local craigslist-variant just to get rid of them. I didn't even believe they were genuine BBS until I got them home and examined them! evobatman fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 20:21
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Nice score. Pictures? Will take some tomorrow if the weather allows putting them on the car, right now I'm rocking 15" steelies with hubcaps.
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Apr 5, 2010 21:23
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evobatman posted:Will take some tomorrow if the weather allows putting them on the car, right now I'm rocking 15" steelies with hubcaps. Got them on now, and holy poo poo they need to be balanced, they really brought out and enhanced every weakness there is in the suspension!   I'll think about washing it sometimes next week. Definitively needs M mouldings on the doors and a lower suspension, which is next on the list together with shock mounts. I have heard good things about Weitec suspensions, can anyone else recommend any decent not too pricey kits? I don't need anything rock hard or adjustable in every direction.
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Apr 6, 2010 18:43
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Make sure that you get the 143hp 118d and not the 122hp one. The upgrade came in early 2007 along with a better interior and an exterior facelift.
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May 19, 2010 11:55
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Oh for fucks sake! Torpedoed by a Nissan Almera, which barely got a scratch. We're not supposed to have nice things, are we?
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Jun 6, 2010 18:45
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Hey, at least your fog deletes weren't harmed My plans exactly, but I would have liked to have done it according to my own schedule. It needs a new suspension kit, but now that has to be postponed too.
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Jun 6, 2010 19:29
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I fitted a £24.99 remote central locking kit from http://www.rclick.co.uk/ into the E36, and it works like a charm. Process was really simple, hooked up power to the 12V lead on the radio, grounded the negative wire behind the glove box, and just plugged the lock and unlock wires into the plug that goes into the central locking module. I didn't bother to hook up the turn signals, as I want it to be as discrete as possible. The not so easy part was actually getting to the central locking module, it's behind the glove box and hidden behind every sharp edge in the world 
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Jun 21, 2010 07:20
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revmoo posted:This is a really interesting idea. How do you identify those wires on the locking module? They are numbered on the connector. I highly recommend doing this, I love having remote central locking, and if you know the correct end of a screwdriver and can splice some wires, it can easily be done in 1-2 hours.
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Jun 21, 2010 15:32
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Beach Bum posted:Soo, I could possibly have remote locking for my E30?! It has central locking! If you are as familiar with wiring stuff together as you say, you should have the remote up and running in less than an hour. All you need to do is find a guide on what wires to splice the lock and unlock signal wires into in an E30.
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Jun 22, 2010 12:13
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Scrubed posted:http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=46332 Looks like a piece of cake. It's so cheap and easy it's almost stupid NOT to do it! And everyone will wonder why your 80s racecar has the same comfort equipment as their 2010 GM babyboomermobile.
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Jun 23, 2010 08:55
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evobatman posted:Oh for fucks sake! The other guys insurance is paying to have it fixed! M3 front ahoy 
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Jun 23, 2010 09:43
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A guy in Norway is selling off a bunch of old single-owner cars with low mileage. http://www.finn.no/finn/car/used/result?orgId=1764743940 1000 NOK is $160/£105/€125
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Jul 14, 2010 22:32
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evobatman posted:Oh for fucks sake! The bodyshop had to use unoriginal parts to fix the car, otherwise it would have been so expensive it would have been wrecked. Hello angel eyes, bling bling-grilles, poorly fitting fender and strangely shaped M3 copy front! The turn signals and grilles have got to go, will just let the paint dry first.  
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Jul 23, 2010 14:11
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What is the real deal with the rear subframe tearing issue on the E36? I have a 1995 323i (2,5 six/170hp for you yanks) with 100k miles on it which has clunking from both sides on the rear. I have replaced the big trailing arm bushings that are up near the body, have replaced the rear shocks and shock mounts, and the sway bar bushings and droplinks, and I cannot get rid of the clunking. A friend of mine loosened and tightened all the nuts on the four big bushings that hold the diff subframe, and said they look old, but still OK, and the floor looks OK. Shock towers are also OK. My car hasn't been driven hard, and has been maintained well up until 3 years ago, where servicing records at the main dealer stops. What should I look at next for the noises? And what's with the tearing, does it affect every single car from the 316 up, or is it only a "maybe" on poorly maintained and track-beaten 325s and 328s?
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Aug 31, 2010 17:59
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Oh my goodness I'm moving into this world of BMW. How do you "end up" with a car like that?? What did she pay for it? The engine is pretty much bulletproof. The rest of the car is not. Check the following things: -Rough running/idle is most likely the PCV valve -Oilpump bolts must be tightened -Valve cover gaskets leak, and can leak into the coil/plug holes in the head and cause misfires. -Same thing with cooling system on this car as on the E34/39/any BMW: Everything blows up each 100k miles and needs to be replaced. -It is a big heavy powerful car. Expect brakes and all suspension parts to be shot. -If it is an automatic, the plastic pellets/valve system needs to have been checked. -Cats are about $1000 each. Probably better to go for aftermarket ones. -It has a ton of luxury items/electronic stuff that will fail. Computers, sensor, wiper motor, window regulators, lighting externally and internally, seat motors and so on and so on. Basically, expect everything except the engine to be broken, and consider anything that is not broken as a bonus. My recommendation will be to not fix anything, drive it until it breaks, remove the engine for a future transplant and then throw the rest away, which I plan to do with a cheap 850i sometime in the future. evobatman fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 14:17
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Glamour shot of the 323i: Click here for the full 1200x800 image. New indicators, grilles and door moldings are on order from eBay. I got sick of chasing vibrations and noises from the suspension, so I thought I should do some cosmetics.
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Sep 8, 2010 13:52
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revmoo posted:Wow that's sharp. Is that Calypsorot? It looks a little purpleish Cordobarot, and in horrible condition, could really use a good polish. I ran it through the most expensive program at a car wash the day before the picture was taken, that helped a bit.
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Sep 8, 2010 14:43
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I keep modifying my car like it's 1999, and for anyone looking for a cheap visual upgrade, I recommend M-style door mouldings from eBay. I went to an independent partsdealer and picked up M Clubsport badges, since I wanted something different from ///M3 (included with the moulding kit) or ///M, which you usually see. Old mouldings and clips are just pulled straight out of the door, use some dish soap on the plugs on the new ones to have them slide right in.  Also in this pic, the smoked indicators from eBay. One of them fit really bad, but since I now have an unoriginal fender, headlamp and indicator, I can't tell which part is the culprit. Now just awaiting black grilles, before it's time to start working seriously on the suspension. evobatman fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 19:55
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8ender posted:The Bad The vibration could be the guibo disc or the tires, I would start by just swapping over to winter tires and see how it feels. The gearknob is held just by friction. Push it into place, set transmission into neutral and then just give the knob a good hard smack straight down, and it should stick. If it doesn't, get a new one. The exhaust is guaranteed an aftermarket one, because they should be really quiet when stock.
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Sep 21, 2010 06:48
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AlternateAccount posted:So I am probably going to go look at a 98 318ti, the active version I think, on Monday. 143k miles and from photos it looks fairly clean, but I will obv know more then. Any particular issues for these cars I should be aware of or check for? My BMW experience is limited to fixing an old girlfriends 3-series a few years ago, so I just don't want to get burned on an obvious thing. At that price with that mileage, I would want full service records with a recent Inspection 2, plenty of thread left on tires and no rust or fluid leaks.
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Oct 10, 2010 10:19
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Both my rear wheelarches have rustholes in them, and are non-salvageable Has anyone had any experience with having them changed at a bodyshop?
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Oct 22, 2010 07:12
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The correct way to go is tons of M parts, but no visible M logos or badges. Also, no chrome, and no (fake) carbon fiber. Only two M logos on my car, and those are on the door bump strips, because there are no alternatives. e: 316i and 520d badges on the corresponding actual M models are encouraged.
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Oct 22, 2010 12:58
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Trapdoor posted:Ah yeah, I'm talking about the m-tech body kit, not the actual parts from an E60 M5. Yep, this. An M-kitted E60 with nice wheels looks beautiful, just don't put an M or M5 badge on the trunk/boot/anywhere else
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Oct 22, 2010 13:01
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Unfortunately there is no such thing as an illuminated shift knob without the M logo
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Oct 22, 2010 16:30
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Rnr posted:Time had come for the scheduled oil service (this is the simplest service for BMWs, the more thorough services are called Inspektion I and II respectively) and I picked it up from the BMW center yesterday. The price for an oil service these days (in Denmark)? 6750 DKK = 1,249.43 USD. I paid 4600 NOK today for transmission oil, coolant, power steering fluid and a clutch flush on my 1995 323i. $780 USD
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Oct 27, 2010 16:42
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