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Picking up a 1987 325i in about 6 hours... 450mi away. What are the common socket sizes on these cars? I'm putting together a small tool pack to take along.
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Apr 21, 2010 05:32
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kimbo305 posted:Does Cali actually check to see if your pre-ODBII car has an aftermarket ECU/EFI solution on it? Cali will gently caress you if everything isn't stock or doesn't have a CARB EO number.
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Aug 31, 2011 08:07
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nitrogen posted:Uhm, does it say on the cap? It probably just says BMW Castrol. Retarded question, but has anyone run across a manual swapped 335D on any forums yet? I know the auto is the same trans (part number wise) as in certain 5, 6, and 7 series. I've been driving one around for a few months now and I love everything about it other than the annoying transmission. Pipe dreams, pipe dreams. 500ftlb of torque with a tune is fun. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Sep 4, 2011 |
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Sep 4, 2011 19:36
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 First long trip update: 37mpg while doing 80-90++ from Arizona to LA and back. 600mi+ on a tank is cool. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Sep 11, 2011 |
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Sep 11, 2011 03:42
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timma85 posted:What rims are those? The previous owner decided to hit a few curbs and the rims are all scuffed up. I've been looking for some good replacement. Stock BMW wheels off a 330i, called Style 71.
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Sep 11, 2011 18:26
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MrChips posted:Both are fine cars in their own right, but they're not without their pitfalls...chief among them being that 99% of E30s are grossly overpriced (for reasons I don't fully understand; I've never been a big fan of the E30) Nait Sirhc posted:I bought an 02 M5 yesterday, yay! Quick pic: BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Sep 21, 2011 |
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Sep 21, 2011 01:59
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You can get BBS LM knockoffs for cheap as gently caress. (Read: $560/set shipped in 18x8 / 18x9) http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1707116 I'm not sure what 'cheap' is to you though. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Sep 23, 2011 |
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Sep 23, 2011 06:15
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Totally, I'd rather pay $950 a wheel for LMs in the same size to save a little weight and some more epeen. Oh wait, no, because they are knockoffs they will explode at speed and cause me to crash into a nunnery.
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Sep 23, 2011 07:28
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Mr. Toast posted:That and it's a stolen design that's taking money away from the businesses that put R&D into those designs. "Fake" parts are a big problem, and they are hurting lots of companies that make products you'd like. I would imagine that the overlap of people who would spend $600 for a set of wheels versus $4000-$8000 for a set of wheels is very small, especially when you're dealing with cars worth $5-15k.
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Sep 23, 2011 17:17
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I pay $50 for an alignment around here, they will align to specs you supply and let you come in for 'adjustments' within a 90 day window. Pretty well worth it, especially since the techs are cool.
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Sep 23, 2011 23:28
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Fake multipiece wheels are ugly as hell, but I'm also not the one buying them. 
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Sep 24, 2011 00:31
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e: nevermind
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Sep 24, 2011 |
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Sep 24, 2011 19:57
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dissss posted:Sunroof and cruise control aside the coupe/sedan is a way nicer car than the hatch. Waiting is the right choice. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Sep 26, 2011 |
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Sep 26, 2011 00:16
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What leaks on the E46 if you don't have a sunroof? Every time it rains there is water on my passenger floormat.
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Sep 27, 2011 00:03
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That would make sense  Thanks, I will check it out. 
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Sep 27, 2011 00:37
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wolrah posted:Check the door gutters. There's a split about a foot in front of the rear edge and everything forward of that tends to creep forward. I have to reset mine about every month as half the clips are broken. If it's more than an inch or so forward I get puddles on the front floorboards. Thanks, I will check that too. nitrogen posted:I'm going to ask this question only because I was this stupid once myself. Before 
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Sep 27, 2011 02:41
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Here is the dumb question of the day.. I did some googling and not finding the specifics... How much does a M62/M70 weight? I would think the LSx would be about the same but I am not sure. The -shortengine- weighs 311lb. http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E38/Sedan/USA/740i-M62/LHD/A/1998/browse/engine/short_engine/ The question is what is actually included in that since 'short engine' is weird wording and the picture seems to show more than what is normally referred to. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Oct 3, 2011 |
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Oct 3, 2011 21:55
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Nait Sirhc posted:I need to get a set of winter wheels for the M5. What do you guys think? Chinatown posted:The E92s look good on...E92s. But not older cars IMO.  
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Oct 7, 2011 |
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Oct 7, 2011 05:39
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The silver LM reps look great. The wheels on the E46 I posted before are the optional E92 M3 wheels, style 260. 18x8.5 +29 / 18x9.5 +23
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Oct 7, 2011 06:39
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Mmm, that steering wheel.
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Oct 7, 2011 07:39
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Hey dudes.
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Oct 7, 2011 22:16
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You could just run the same tire size front and rear, then pay to rotate them. I've got an 18x8.5 / 18x9.5 stagger on an E46 running takeoff RE050 245/40 all around. Came from 235/40 / 255/40 Azenis RT615s and I prefer the way it handles now.
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Oct 10, 2011 18:48
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Fermunky posted:I agree to that somewhat, if you're in bumper to bumper traffic, it's not so bad as long as you can crawl. It's really a pain in the rear end though if you have a 5 mile stretch of stop and go traffic. Not as bad as a sportbike in stop and go traffic. After 20 minutes of that I'm ready to say gently caress it and risk the ticket for lane splitting.
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Oct 12, 2011 22:06
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AlternateAccount posted:Why does Europe not want a manual M5? What do you mean? All of the M5s so far have come in manual in both the US and Europe. The F10 is supposed to come in manual as well.
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Oct 12, 2011 22:54
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Bank posted:Strange issue with my E46 recently -- the car seems to hesitate when accelerating from a full stop. It doesn't happen at all when I push the gas pedal softly, but any harder, the car "jerks" a bit at low RPMs, but drives fine when not in a full stop. It's an auto BTW. Mine also does this and it's a manual. When you get in it from a stop or slow roll it hesitates for a second then goes. I have a CEL on and I haven't bothered to check, so it might be related - I'm not sure. It came on a little after I did the VANOS seal fix and occasionally it will flick off for a day or two. I figure it's probably a cam sensor issue or something but I'm not down on power. wolrah posted:The E60 was supposed to be SMG-III only and launched as that. The 6 speed manual was added later only for the North American market (where it was slower than the SMG and could not have DSC disabled). As far as I can tell if a manual is offered in the F10 it will also be NA-only. Given that the primary complaint about the SMG-III was low speed smoothness and the M-DCT solves that, I wouldn't be surprised if we never see a third pedal.  Same idea as holding the DSC button on non-M cars.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Oct 14, 2011 |
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Oct 14, 2011 19:48
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I wish they had more initial bite, but I'm being picky there.
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Oct 15, 2011 06:02
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What series do you have? I tried the ziptie fix on my E46 passenger front window - which failed because the little clippy shits had already completely broken and one of the metal things that attach to the track already broke off. I bought a new but non-OEM window regulator for $53 at bmaparts.com.
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Oct 17, 2011 03:55
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Here is your DIY video: http://vimeo.com/13163932 Here is your part number: Left door (51357140589) / right door (51357140590) Looks like about $85, depending on where you get it. Not too bad.
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Oct 17, 2011 04:14
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^^ Hmm, that makes me feel worse about the heat discoloration on my cam lobes. Fermunky posted:999,999 times out of 1,000,000 isn't "always" Do the ziptie fix now before it's too late. http://www.skene.org/bmw/window/
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Oct 17, 2011 18:35
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. On a related note, I think my front-passenger regulator is on it's way out on my E46.
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Mine does this, but my car is also extremely weird. It was a single owner car with the only single option on the entire car being the xenon lights - manual seats, manual ac, 5spd, no sunroof, etc... but had coilovers, full exhaust, filled with legit Alpina stickers, and a few other things.
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Oct 20, 2011 17:18
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I test drove an E36 M3 probably six years ago with a UUC shift knob. First loving 1-2 shift I toss the drat knob into the back seat.
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Oct 20, 2011 21:00
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http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/Diagnostic_BMW_Peake_SRS_Tool.html
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Oct 21, 2011 21:47
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destructo posted:2004 330ci sport package with 75k for $13.5. Sounds like a reasonable price no? At one point does one think mileage is a concern with an E46 with the M54? There are higher mileage ~95-110k ZHPs around the same price point that I'm considering as well. I've got 150k+ miles on on my M54, nary a problem. gently caress, knocking on so much wood right now. Stock clutch too, though it slips when ragging on the car.
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Nov 1, 2011 03:39
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I'm pretty sure that is the underbrace.  Bridges the gap between the sides of the trans tunnel for less flex throughout the car.
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Nov 1, 2011 19:43
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ynotony posted:Every normal car from 20+ years ago feels at least raw and high strung by today's standards. The new M5 will meet all the expectations of a $100k luxury cruiser. If it didn't, it would fail as an M car. It will achieve decent MPG figures, last for well over 100k miles without much drama... but will also hit 60mph in 3.7 seconds and lap the Nurburgring in under 8 minutes.
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Nov 4, 2011 19:17
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poo poo, I thought Misfits stopped airing or something.
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Nov 9, 2011 23:17
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Well, emissions is due on my 01 E46 and I have a CEL on. I figured I could just reset it and pass emissions before it came back on because it sometimes goes off for a day or two at a time. Reset it / checked the codes at an Autozone and it came back on after driving a mile, turning the car off, and turning it back on (wtf? I thought it took something like 3 run cycles to come back?). The codes and I have: P0444 - Evap emissions system purge control valve circuit open P0128 - Coolant Thermostat P0304 - Cyl 4 Misfire The p0444 seems to normally be the little $65 valve w/ sensor under the intake, no big deal. P0128 is supposed to be the thermostat but the car warms up perfectly fine and the coolant needle never strays from straight up when running after warmed up. Could this be a sensor? P0304 is a misfire, it only happened once or twice like six months ago and hasn't come back so I was hoping clearing the codes just cleared this and it won't come back. Anyone have any ideas or advice? Thanks
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Nov 16, 2011 19:14
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Motronic posted:You don't just clear codes and hope they don't come back. Also, things like misfire and evap DTCs will clear themselves when the condition has been gone for long enough. And not all conditions take multiple drive cycles to set a DTC. quote:Let's start with P0444 - as long as you have less than 1/2 tank or so of fuel, it can run the test. You need to be driving at the right speeds, etc, but it will run and set a DTC pretty immediately if the test fails. Replacing the purge control valve is probably your best bet, as I'm assuming you don't have the equipment to diagnose an evap system. It's common enough and cheap enough to throw at it (in my opinion). quote:P0128 - You say the car "warms up". What does that mean? You have heat? The idiot gauge is in the middle? P0128 doesn't mean it isn't warming up. It means it's not warming up to a bottom temperature threshold (probably about 165-185 in your case) within a period of time from a cold start. Your thermostat is either partially stuck open, or the ECT sensor is bad in a way that isn't setting a more specific code. You test this by using live data to check the ECT value from a cold start while comparing those readings to an IR thermometer pointed at an appropriate water neck or section of head. If the IR and ECT are in agreement, it's time for a thermostat. If they are wildly far away, especially if they rise at different rates, it's time for an ECT sensor. quote:P0304 - Plug.....wire...injector....coil? Who knows? Time to pull that plug and see what it looks like so you can figure out if it's getting fuel and no spark, or spark and no fuel. We won't even discuss no compression, as it's too depressing and unlikely to get into. I also read this can be caused by vac leaks or the intake boot leaking. I've already sprayed all over the intake boot with WD40 and never heard the idle rise but I guess there is a cluserfuck of vac lines under the intake manifold that are also commonly issues. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Nov 16, 2011 |
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Nov 16, 2011 21:31
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Are you serious with the propane torch? Either way I found this:  lovely picture but the tube exiting the intake elbow just above the worm clamp has a tear in it. Looks like PN 13541435627  edit2: Pulled out the first part of the boot and got my hands on the tear, it's huge. Where would I find the PN for the F-joint for vac tubes coming out of the second intake boot - the one closest to the airbox? I can't find it on realoem. edit3: PN for F-fitting: 13327503677 BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Nov 16, 2011 |
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Nov 16, 2011 22:37
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I replaced the leaking F connector and the lower intake boot and it appears to pull a slight bit harder. When I stopped by the dealership they wanted like $120 for the thermostat so I will be ordering that and the PCV online and I'll go from there. Thank you
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Nov 17, 2011 01:09
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