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VacaGrande posted:I can't overstate this effect - the difference from driving a beige Maxima to my Bimmer is night and day. Nobody lets me into traffic anymore and it seems like more people speed up to block me out of a space in traffic. People just assume you're a jackass and treat you as such. I've had a somewhat different reaction. I just got a 2001 330Ci (need to make a post soon), switched from a LS400, and I almost feel like I get treated like a cop. I do a lot of night driving, and i see people slowing down around me, or holding off their speeds. Not sure exactly what the deal is, if people are worried about accidents with expensive cars, or this is just normal and I was used to something different. Either way, there's definitely something different. (Although occasionally I had that feeling in the lexus, that people thought I was a cop). Also, maybe this makes a difference, I'm driving a white car now versus a silver car.
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Mar 29, 2008 03:54
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dangerous.hotdog posted:I'm in the market for a daily driver in LA. I know pretty much nothing about cars, but I talked to a few buddies that have/had BMWs and they rave about them. I looked a bit into the new 1 series and I'm very intruiged. Someone may be able to correct me on this, but I would think to stay away from the 1-series in the US for a while, since some of those cars that got wrecked on that freighter were 1-series. Anyone know if these are just going to be demo cars like the M3s, or are they going to be advertised? Last I heard they were going to be sold as new. Fake Edit: They may have already all sold too...
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Mar 30, 2008 22:18
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hedge posted:All damage will be disclosed when the cars are sold. Ah, ok, I thought it was just the M3's.
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Mar 30, 2008 22:34
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I'm going to change the "Lifetime" ATF and do an oil change this weekend. Any recommendations for this? I've been reading through bimmerforums threads about the TF change, and I think I'm going to use Valvoline MERCON V (Specifically recommended by Valvoline as a replacement for Esso LT71141) and Mobil 1 5W-40 (or should I use 5W-30? should I use AMSOIL  ) Also I'm wondering about additives. I've heard good things about Lucas Synthetic additive, and Lubegard for the ATF. Any thoughts on these? Are additives worth it at all?Edit: Should have mentioned, 2001 330Ci with the 5HP19 ZF transmission. E2: I'm thinking more and more about the additive, thinking how strict BMW's specs are on oil, is it a good idea? E3: Crazed_Capybara_Rider on IRC has convinced me the lucas oil is a bad idea, but Lucas transmission might be good. maxallen fucked around with this message at 09:46 on Apr 3, 2008 |
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Apr 3, 2008 07:04
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Hey, I'm looking into getting a strut bar to reinforce the towers, because I've got the sport suspension and I'm afraid of the towers mushrooming. I found a guy nearby with a set for $30, I don't really care about the performance, it'd be nice if it helped, but what I'm really wanting is tower protection, do you think this would be worth it:
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Apr 8, 2008 11:30
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Date with Ikea posted:Thanks, I'll take a look next time I use the car. I've been doing a bit more searching, and I've seen a few people saying that a faulty camshaft position sensor causes pretty much EXACTLY what I've experienced. Anyway, I just hope it's one of the three problems we've listed here. The 2001 was M54. Not sure it matters.
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Apr 22, 2008 20:27
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Mad Dragon posted:You definitely need to replace the sensor(s), and I highly recommend replacing the rotors. BMW rotors shouldn't be machined. Any suggestions on rotor/pad combinations for cash savings? I was thinking of putting EBC Greenstuff on my car when the pads run out, although they might be too short life and/or eat rotors too much. I'd like something that's fairly good performance, can run through two sets of pads for each rotor, and has a good lifespan. I have a feeling this is an impossible combination to get though 
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May 6, 2008 01:28
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TractionControl posted:The E46 M3 has its engine in the front though. The M1 traditionally would not though, because it has its engine in the back. The build on that car certainly doesn't look like an MR car though. The seats are too far back, the cabin leans toward the rear, and the hood is extremely long. The front end looks like a slightly squashed version of the E9X M3 to me.
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May 6, 2008 18:49
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SlapActionJackson posted:That sounds pretty normal for wide rear tires with that much stock camber. Get a tread depth guage and check. On my M3, I would typically wear the innermost tread groove down to 2/32" with 4 or 5/32" left on the outermost. I get the same effect on the sport suspension on my 330Ci. Pulling up the alignment spec shows 2 degrees of rear camber.
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Jul 15, 2008 06:16
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Hey got a mechanical question: I've got a 2001 330Ci that I gave a nice curb slap. Anyway, I'm pretty sure the rear upper control arm is tweaked after looking at it yesterday. The first shop I took it to ended up not being trustworthy (told me to quit asking questions, told me the wheel bearing was hosed, ended up being the CV) but they told me it was tweaked and needed replacement. Anyway, I'm going to take it to an alignment shop tomorrow and see if they can get the toe right, but I doubt it. So basically, my question is: Can I replace it myself? The most work I've ever done is plugs/wires on my lexus (disassembly of the intake manifold), so I'm not sure if I have the time, mechanical aptitude, strength, or ability. Any idea whether I'd be wasting my time at this, or should I just source a part and let someone handle it for me?
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Jul 21, 2008 03:04
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:That might be a bit much for you. Replacing the arm isn't too hard, but getting to the bolt that holds it inboard is a PITA that requires removal of many other parts. If you have the Bentley manual, a well stocked garage of tools, a second car to use as a parts/tool fetcher, and a free weekend to kill then have at it. Thanks for the answer. I think that pretty much solves it. I have no manual, a socket/wrench set from work, and i think i'd ring up a nice budget in rented tools from O'Reilly. Not to mention I'm not supposed to do repairs at my apartment complex.
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Jul 21, 2008 04:21
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Art Vandelay posted:Try calling Bavarian Auto Recycling - their prices aren't rock bottom but they're pretty reasonable. They're pretty close to rock bottom. I had to replace the right-rear axle in my 330Ci. It uses a different axle from the 323/325/328, and the only way I could get it was either from a dealership or from pelican parts on special order from BMW for $260 or something like that. Got it for $180 including overnight shipping from BAR.
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Aug 17, 2008 06:41
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BraveUlysses posted:FYI these guys are almost universally hated on bimmerforums for scamming, slow delivery or outright sales of incorrect parts. That's great. I just ordered another part from them today ($100 on a $250 new part). I guess we'll see how it turns out.
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Aug 19, 2008 08:14
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SpecialK2 posted:http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...9&I1.x=6&I1.y=6 Doesn't discontinued usually mean there's a revised part that should hopefully be more reliable?
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Aug 19, 2008 15:14
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groverat posted:Am I an idiot for wanting a 5 or 7 series as a daily driver? From what I hear, the 7 series tends to be a bit unreliable as it gets up in miles, mostly from having technology out the wazzou, which is why they hold their value wo poorly. The 5 series I believe is significantly more reliable. There's also a sport package that I think is pretty good for the 5 series. I'd also recommend the straight-6 engines (535 and below) over the V8, again from what I've heard. What model/year is your Lexus, because you may be looking at several years before it actually starts to die.
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Aug 24, 2008 00:44
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I'm hoping the automatic transmission failures on these forums are overplayed as well. I've got 110k on the clock right now on my auto 3-series.
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Aug 24, 2008 16:51
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I'm so depressed after this bit of news, I think I've finally lost hope in BMW. Let's start with this bit of news from a while back: http://www.autoblog.com/2008/07/29/the-future-of-m-bmw-x5-x6-and-less/ BMW announces that instead of going ahead with the M3 Wagon, no E92 M3 CSL, and no M1 concept. Instead they want to make some goddamn M SUVs. Then a couple days ago: http://www.autoblog.com/2008/08/25/no-audi-r8-competitor-coming-from-bmw/ BMW EfficientDynamics director says that there will be no response to the Audi R8. Instead BMW will focus on green technologies. Now today: http://www.autoblog.com/2008/08/26/spy-shots-bmw-m-tuned-x5-and-x6-in-spartanburg/ Yeah. They went ahead and did it. This is just such a loving watering down of the M brand I can't stand it. Seriously, what happened to the BMW of 10 years ago that focused on sport and driving, instead of the massively bloated and feature-ridden BMWs of today?
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Aug 27, 2008 03:04
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Xenoid posted:Dollar signs. BMW has always been profitable but just like Porsche makes a lot of money on their Cayenne, BMW makes wads of money on their SUVs as well. Sure it will be fast as hell and probably lap the ring faster than an M3, but why? I would rather see diesels (which are finally coming to Canada this year) and green cars. But even with Porsche and the Cayenne, they still haven't lost their main focus. They still pump out GT2s and GT3s and design exciting new cars like the Cayman. Of course they're also making the Panarama, but I digress. Even the 3 series seems to have lost it's way, becoming more of a small luxo-barge that happens to be sporty, and gaining about 1000 lbs of weight in the process and losing a lot of that character as well. E: That may be a bit too harsh. The 335i is a fine performing car, but it just seems like all the performance is getting lost in feature creep, especially in the M3, which just seems to be turning into more of a M5 to me. maxallen fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Aug 27, 2008 |
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Aug 27, 2008 04:39
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And it's official... http://www.autoblog.com/2008/08/27/report-bmw-cancels-development-of-e92-m3-csl/
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Aug 27, 2008 14:17
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Taymar posted:I've seen the same criticisms in reviews too. I believe the one in Roundel recently said something along the lines of wider front tires and suspension tweaks would make the car much better balanced. I know TTAC has a pretty bad reputation, but they reviewed two of them and described the handling (yes they were both autos, but this is handling) as if it "had a piano on the roof". E: Also I'm becoming more accepting of the lack of the M3 CSL. Seems to me that the market above the M3 is becoming pretty saturated, and if the CSL is coming in $20-$40k more than the base M3, you're looking at GT-R and ZR1 territory. Then again, the M3 does have a better back seat. maxallen fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Aug 28, 2008 |
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Aug 28, 2008 19:56
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Sterndotstern posted:Modern carmakers now only allow fast cars to understeer once they're off stability control. Fat rear tires and concerns about tire wear make that happen. Don't you mean oversteer?
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Aug 29, 2008 04:03
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Daddy Fantastic posted:Finally got my aftermarket head unit installed. Is there any market out there for a 6 disc changer from a '97 E36, or should I just let it take up space in my trunk? Google says it's iBus so it should work for E46s as well. Of course I'll take it off your hands if you don't want it.
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Aug 31, 2008 02:46
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Well, a few months ago I hit a curb with my 330Ci. I just had the upper control arm replaced, and the alignment shop tells me it's still got +1" of toe, and it looks like the trailing arm is bent. Anyone know where I can get one for relatively cheap. Pelican lists it at $700 for the right rear, and it's 330 specific. I already called up Bavarian Auto Recycling and they were out of stock. I really can't afford the $700 right now, and I have no idea when Bavarian will get one in. Any ideas?
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Sep 3, 2008 20:12
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CornHolio posted:Is it possible that the dealership didn't tighten the upper radiator hose clamp tight enough, and when it popped off, I got a huge air bubble in my system? This is just blind guessing, but I don't see anything else it could be. Hoses don't just "pop off". And I have a feeling the thermostat is fine, but your water pump's going to be sucking air into the radiator, and shooting water out the block until you've got air in your block, and then it'll have a hard time measuring the block temperature. I could be completely wrong about this though.
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Sep 11, 2008 03:41
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The gently caress... I just walked out to my car, someone stole the passenger side kidney grill. Nothing else. It wasn't smashed or anything like that, it was pulled off the bodywork. I'm not sure, but it may not have even been violently taken. I'm so confused. E: Looks like they tried to take the other one and failed. The gently caress. maxallen fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Sep 16, 2008 |
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Sep 16, 2008 05:16
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maxallen posted:The gently caress... I just walked out to my car, someone stole the passenger side kidney grill. Nothing else. It wasn't smashed or anything like that, it was pulled off the bodywork. I'm not sure, but it may not have even been violently taken. I'm so confused. I'm trying to decide whether to pick up a new one or just get one cheap on ebay. It looks like the chrome ones on ebay are a lot more bright than the stock chrome, and the black ones I'm not sure will fit well either. Any thoughts? PS- It's an Alpine White 330Ci with sport package.
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Sep 16, 2008 18:46
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Lufiron posted:If your interior is black, go with the blacked out ones. No, sounds like the shadowline trim was only the ZHP. I've got stock chrome window trim and kidneys. I think but I'm not sure that the chrome slats are only chrome on the edges, not inside, which is why I think one of the ebay "Full chrome" ones would be too showy.
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Sep 17, 2008 00:02
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irreverent posted:I have a question with regards to a 1998 528i. Lately when I first start the car in the morning, it's making a horrendous whining noise which gets momentarily worse when I take sharp, low-speed turns (like a 90 degree right out of my driveway), and I can feel a bit of a vibration through the steering wheel. By the time it warms up though, the symptoms are gone. Any ideas on what I should do about this? It's either the serpentine belt or pulleys or both. The noise is the belt slipping, it may just be worn out, or the tensioner pulley may be failing. The vibration is the belt slipping and the PS pump conking out when it does.
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Nov 11, 2008 17:48
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Hey, I'm looking at replacing my 330Ci's rear trailing arm. I got some pages out of the E36 bentley manual, and checked some stuff on the TIS, looks like 300 Nm to torque down the axle. Any tips, advice to doing this? Do I need loctite on say the diff output bolts? Is silicone spray acceptable to lubricate the bushings? It's my first time doing anything like this, so I'm looking for any advice. Also, I was wondering if it's possible to lock the upper control arm to the subframe or something so I don't have to deal with decompressing/compressing springs? I've got some high gauge wire from work, do you think a bunch of runs of that would be acceptable for supporting things?
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Nov 20, 2008 06:33
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The gently caress. So last week, I replaced my rear trailing arm on my 2001 330Ci. The old one had been bent when I hit a curb hard, and I finally got my car into alignment and was drivable for the first time in ages. I drove it 1500 miles over Thanksgiving with no problems. So just now, I drive it to the electronics shop, it's working fine, the turn signal flasher is going a bit rapid for a couple seconds, need to check my bulbs. Anyway, I get back to the car, turn it on, start to back up, and... no power steering. None, at all. I check under the hood, what I can see of the belt is turning, and turning off the car I see what seems to be plenty of fluid in the reservoir. I drive it back to work and it didn't kick back on. On a side note, I think the key I'm using has an issue, it sometimes doesn't like to kick the starter when I use it, I think it's not working with the security system, and on another note I tried playing with the wheel to get it to start earlier today (wheel unlocked but engine off). Could that have anything to do with it?
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Dec 2, 2008 18:05
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I don't have the valet key, but the second key seems to work just fine. As for the power steering, it's still not working. Any ideas what could be causing it- it went out like a light.
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Dec 3, 2008 02:32
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Well, I talked to a good mechanic today, he thinks it's pretty impossible for it to have been blockage, and the only possibilities are PS pump failure or the pressure switch sticking open. Either way it needs a new PS pump. His prices are really good, around $200 for the pump and $120 for the labor and fluids. My question is this: #1) Is the older LF-20 pump bolt on compatible with no changes or anything needed aside from the pump? It's cheaper and has a better steering feel than the stock pump. #2) Is there anywhere you know of where I can get a rebuilt pump online cheaper than this? #3) How hard would it be for me to replace this thing myself? I'm thinking it might be messy and I'm worried I might screw up a good pump, or that I might need some specialized tools to deal with the hoses/etc. Any thoughts?
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Dec 6, 2008 05:21
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Since it's only going to be available in hardtop convertible version, and the big benefit of the Z4 coupe was the chassis rigidity, how does hardtop convertible (with top up) compare to a coupe and a softtop? Does it give any help, or is it no better?
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Dec 14, 2008 05:57
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Xenoid posted:One thing I admit that I keep forgetting is how bad the dollar is these days. When I got my 540 our dollar was at 1.20 so I saved a few thousand by buying an American car just on the dollar alone.
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Jan 5, 2009 06:24
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I've been getting an intermittent coolant light on my '01 330Ci. I kept forgetting to check the level when it was truly cold, but I finally did this morning, and it was right between the two dots on the stick. Do I just have a bad sensor, or is there something else that could be causing this? On a related note, I've never seen my temp sensor climb more than a tick above straight up, so I don't seem to be having any cooling issues. E: Forgot to mention, the car's got 115k on the clock, the PO replaced the cooling system around 90k or so they said.
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Jan 5, 2009 22:57
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multiprotocol posted:I've had the same problem, but I know that I need to replace my cooling system. I'm confident my issue is a stuck float level sensor - yours may (or may not I'm guessing the float level sensor isn't the same as the bob I see in the tank? I'm having trouble with the diagram on realoem, got a link that shows me what I should be looking for? E: I think I found it, the leveling switch as labeled on the diagrams, Coolant Level Sender on Pelican Parts? I'm guessing the best course would be to not mess with it since it's attached to that lovely endtank unless the problem starts to actually become an issue. maxallen fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jan 6, 2009 |
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Jan 6, 2009 15:09
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) be the same.
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Altoids posted:It's an automatic. Yes it can take up to 3000 rpm from a stop after it has been sitting out in freezing temperatures overnight. If it is a pretty warm day it doesn't seem to be as bad. I would agree with the brakes and saying you're getting brake fade, but that you say sitting in park it warms up, sounds like your transmission is low on fluid and/or making GBS threads the bed. Have you bottomed out or anything recently that could cause a fluid leak?
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Jan 7, 2009 04:10
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Altoids posted:I had the transmission fluid replaced over the holidays. I think the car does have some transmission problem though. If I hold the brake down and shift through the gears, I can feel the car bounce a bit as it moves from P to R to D, etc... But when the mechanic replaced the transmission fluid he said that there wasn't any metal in the fluid. Which is apparently a good sign? He lifted the car up and showed me a rubber "bearing" (I think?) that was cracked, and said that that was probably the problem. Had the transmission fluid ever been replaced before? Where exactly was this bearing? (torn guibo?) E: i'm an idiot Is this it? http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=GUIBO maxallen fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jan 7, 2009 |
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Jan 7, 2009 04:39
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Altoids posted:I don't know. I bought the car with about 97,000 miles and when I hit the 100,000 mark I decided it was a good time to have it replaced. The manual mentions that the transmission fluid is "lifetime" so I would guess it has never been replaced. High mileage fluid swaps tend to dislodge deposits which then proceed to flow around your transmission and gently caress things up. Did you tell him/did he do a filter swap, or did he just do the regular high pressure suck and blow swap? If it's the latter there's a good chance what I said earlier happened, if you did a filter/fluid swap there's still a slight chance. On a related note, I still haven't decided whether or not to change the fluids in the auto my '01. 115k on the clock, assumedly never been swapped. My original plan was to drain, clean magnets, fill, run it a bit, drain, swap filter/clean magnets, fill, and go, and hopefully I might avoid this. Anyone got opinions on that?
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Jan 7, 2009 05:14
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balakadaka posted:Ok, I've been searching up and down for this but no finds. I've got a 97 M3 coupe. I had a Euro specialist repair shop check some suspension stuff (tie rid ends, control arms, RTABs, etc.). They replaced tires and driver's side tie rod end. I'd look at camber plates. They're designed for autocross/racing to give additional negative camber, but can be pushed out for more positive too. Looking around, I see $350 from both Turner Motorsports and UUC. I'd trust that a lot more than some guy sawzalling/drilling into my stock bodywork. http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/products.asp?CS=uuc&RowID=429&Refresh=True&CategoryID=6&OverrideJava=True&FromDefault=True
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Jan 11, 2009 08:32
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