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Nice to see other e28 owners  I have a bunch of goodies to install for my '87 535i. Euro headlights + grills, e32 front brakes and e34 540i rears, e34 basketweaves, a Hartge spoiler, and a good amount of poly bushings. Hopefully I can find an iS airdamn too.
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Jun 24, 2008 21:17
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thealphabetsez posted:I have a brand new, OE E32 750 brake master cylinder I would sell you for your big brake upgrade! I never got around to installing it on my E28, but helped Merkin get his in his E24 with stock brakes, which he absolutely loves. From what I understand, the oem 535i cylinder will work fine, reason being the e28 M5 shares the same cylinder and it works it's big brakes fine, and though I'm using e32 fronts the e28 is much lighter. From what I've read the 750 one can be detrimental to pedal feel.
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Jun 25, 2008 09:10
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I'm not sure if this is bad form are not, so please tell, but I am parting out a '95 M3 if anyone needs anything. Vaders are gone but most of the stuff is still there, plus some AA goodies. I'd love to see a goon plop my S50 in an E30
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Jul 16, 2008 08:26
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The front bumper was destroyed, sorry 
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Jul 16, 2008 23:55
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Just posted a thread in SA mart for the 95 m3 I'm parting out, have at it! Just finished painting my Euro grills for the E28. Nice to have them shiny again Tomorrow I need to do the mirrors, bumper trim, chrome window trim and taillight trim (ghetto shadowlining!) try to repair my authentic Hartge rear spoiler polish my headlights, and wash the thing. Biggest car meet in the entire U.S., Import Alliance, is hosted in Nashville. This year it's at Nashville Motor Speedway and is hosted by Redline Time Attack, so there will be some fun racing to watch. A good friend of mine should be competing in his E36 M3.
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Jul 26, 2008 06:20
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What do you think my best option for snagging some old school recaro seats / 80's era BMW sport seats for the E28? E30 sport seats don't pop up too often, but it looks like some other cars around that era had similar seats - someone has a set of cloth recaros out of a VW on Craigslist that look identical. I'm not worried about fabbing up brackets to make it work.
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Aug 7, 2008 00:38
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 Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. A few pictures at UTK. Going to take some pictures with a friend's modded S2000 soon! I can't wait to put some more money into this car. I just need my drat e36 m3 parts to sell, which is a pain since I am three hours from home 
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Aug 24, 2008 20:28
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I think I'm going to sell my E28 and nab an E30, as it seems more inline with my wants. I don't need the extra two doors and space of the E28, and I really miss the glove-like fit of my S2k and MR2. The performance advantage is nice too. I had a ride along in a 2.7 eta / i hybrid E30 That thing hugged the corners better than drat near any car I've been in. My friend has an S2000 with Zeal coilovers among other mods, and seemed faster, but the E30 just felt so confident. I felt like we were on a sunday drive, but we were taking hairpin corners at breakneck speeds - in the middle of the night on a pitch black road at that! I've never felt that comfortable during something like that. I'm going to lose some money selling the E28, but I've made a profit on my previous three cars so I can't get upset.
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Oct 20, 2008 03:48
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Sterndotstern posted:I've had a long-term boner for E28s. Do you have pics/details? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2809820&pagenumber=28&perpage=40#post348183298 I posted some pictures earlier in this thread. It's a 21 year old car, so it needs some love - This is going to be long. The car has minor surface rust here and there. One dent - front passenger side door. Looks like it can be popped out easy. It needs new pads and rotors soon, but I've got e32 front calipers and a discs and rear e34 540i's ready to go on when I get the time. Suspension needs attention bushing wise if you want to tighten it up. It has a sagging diff mount, I ordered one a while ago but I think Steve Haygood lost it. He was going through health problems at the time (awesome guy to buy parts from by the way). It needs a new guibo, which I have ready to go in. The brakes, \diff mount, ect were to be taken care of during winter break. Right now the car isn't driven much, being at college and living on campus. The paint isn't in great shape - quite a few places are missing clear coat. Mechanically she's sound, just needed a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder when I bought it. The clutch pedal bracket might be cracked - it's a bit stiff and it vibrates a bit. The tranny seems to be weeping ever so slightly - not enough to drip fluids down it seems though. This seems to be a common problem. 4th gear has a grind on hard shifting. The odo broke ~25k miles ago. It currently reads 104k or so. Interior is in so so shape. The back seats are a bit worn, but the driver's seat has some rips in the leather. Comfort interior, black and tan. Has an aftermarket headunit with an ipod jack, but it's a bit old. All electronics work, OBC is in great shape. Rear windows close slowly, but the fronts are good. A/C needs a recharge (e28 A/C is notoriously lovely even when working 100%, so I wouldn't bother.) Theres a fan for the heater that is under the stereo in the center console, which needs to be replaced. It makes an angry noise above the '1' setting so it's probably on it's way out. No cooling issues to speak of. Engine bay has caked oil here and there - the valve cover gasket had been leaking for a while. When I bought the car and had the valves adjusted the old gasket crumbled into dust. It's been replaced, and no longer leaks. Doesn't burn oil either. Power seats work, aside from the headrests. Drivetrain wise it's pretty sound. Always starts right up, occasionally on the first crank. Doesn't burn / leak any fluids aside from the weep in the tranny. Runs nice and strong and can see ~28 mpg highway ~23 around town. No real mods aside from Euro headlights and the wheels at the moment. Got a deal on those I really couldn't pass up. Borbet Type T's, 17x8.5 front 17.9.5 rear, et13 and et17 offsets. In drat good shape, but the clearcoat on the very outer edge of the lip in the rear is peeled off a bit - some rubbing. Now that winter is here I'm putting back on the E34 basketweaves. They've got some new Khumo Ecstas on there. Oh, and it has a 330i ZHP shift knob. I love that thing - it was from my M3. To anyone disappointed with stock shift feel, nab one of those. You can find them for $54 shipped and they make SUCH a big difference. I've got a Hartge rear spoiler that needs some cracks fixed before it goes on again, got it with the car. Here is the P.o.'s baby - an 88 535iS. He used mine ('87 535i) as a dd for 6 months before I bought it from him.   The rest here http://mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=53465
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Oct 20, 2008 16:44
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Welp. I put up some feelers for my E28. With hope I'll be in an E30 in the near future. I have a feeling I'm going to miss the old girl though. She's been a great dd.
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Oct 21, 2008 07:55
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I might have my e28 sold sat., so I'm on the lookout for a nice E30, preferably a black 325i coupe. Speaking of which, I've been looking at coilover setups and I'm torn on what route to take. It seems most go for the GC setup with short bodied koni inserts. I realize these are two different cars, but I have a close friend with an AP1 S2000 who went from stock suspension -> Comptech Coilovers -> Zeal Coilovers. The Comptechs were a basic kit, much like the Ground Controls. The Zeals are very high dollar. He noticed a huge difference between the two. The higher end setup I was looking at was the Vorschlag / AST 4200 set. I had Sportline 1's on the M3 and they were great. Anyone have any experience with these on an E30? I've heard nothing but good things and it seems like they would be worth the $2500-3000 for a setup with camber plates and other goodies.
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Nov 4, 2008 19:20
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So, I think I found an E30, and it's local to boot. It's not exactly what I was looking for though. I was planning on buying a stock 325i or e for a 2.7L stroker for daily / autocross. I'll be damned if I could find what I was looking for though - an 87-91 coupe in black with clean paint and good mechanicals. Black ones just never pop up for sale However, there has been an e30 for sale locally for a while now. It's not stock though - it's a track / autocross car. dual 2.5" side pipes out the passenger side - not cat, no muffler - interior has no carpet, door trim, sound deadening, or rear seats - still has the dash and center console though. A laundry list of suspension mods, and.. An OBD1 converted S52, swapped by Treehouse racing. The engine is stock aside from the OBD1 conversion, and it's mated to a 260 Getrag and a 3.73 LSD. It has a small rust hole in the passenger's floorboard, and some slight bubbling on the driver's floorboard, but he claims no other rust. It's been semi prepped for paint. It's seen 10k miles since the swap - I'm not sure how much of that has been track time though. And I trust John's work on the swap. The cooling system was completely gone over when it was done. The chassis has ~200k and the motor ~90k. I plan on bringing a friend to look at the car on friday. If it seems good I'll be taking it to Treehouse for a PPI of sorts. The electronics all work apparently, which is also a plus. From a glance at the pictures, to get in good daily drivable shape it's going to need some euro ellipsoids, interior trim, and exhaust work. Then it's on to paint, ect. He's asking $6500. Sound reasonable? What should I check for? besides the floorboards and battery tray, are there any other common rust spots? I'll be sure to have the thing up on jackstands, and he has no problem with me taking it for a spin. I'll imagine the suspension would be hard on the kidneys for daily driving, but I'm young The last E30 I almost looked at had terminal cancer (rear strut tower rust). I'm hoping this one is better.
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Dec 9, 2008 02:26
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Pissingintowind posted:Anyone here tried the UUC RSC36 exhaust? I currently have a AA Gen III which was installed by the PO and is nice and quiet for the most part, but I am kind of disgusted with AA as a company and have an opportunity to trade for the UUC. Would the UUC be much louder? I don't want to annoy myself on the highway and wake up my neighbors with a ricey exhaust. If my UUC System U as anything to go by, if it is loud it will NOT sound ricey. That exhaust had an amazing sound to it.
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Dec 9, 2008 08:51
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Stromung - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXrjPYgvrlc Remus - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6ltxbjwnOs&feature=related Dinan - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWMaUW7dCr8&feature=related (He has magnaflow cats too, I can't tell between other videos if they are making it louder) My UUC System U  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwGdvi0m-YkIf I do end up getting that E30 I want to get another one of these and get it on there somehow. I've read of a few E36 exhausts being modified to fit on an e30. If you drive gently, I don't think the UUC would piss off your neighbors. But, if quiet is your thing, based on youtube I would go with the Stromung. Youtube can be misleading though.
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Dec 9, 2008 21:54
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:I don't think it's possible to drive gently with a UUC exhaust. I know I would be too tempted to go WOT everywhere if I had one, which is why I don't have one. This much is true. The burbling on deceleration is also quite nice. I hope electric cars don't come too soon - the sound is half the experience.
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Dec 10, 2008 03:25
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So I put a deposit on an OBD1 S52 e30 on friday, and I may be picking it up today! Hooray christmas! Needs paint, interior carpet and door panels, exhaust work (it has sidepipes currently - way too loud!), and new h1/h4 housings for the headlights and it'll be well settled. Some minor maintenance items are needed as well (plugs, valve cover gasket, guibo) - they are already in shipping. By the time I head back to Knoxville, I should have the interior cleaned and in place, a 3.5" intake + hfm setup (chipped for the 3.5" hfm, but it's running a stock one), and an OBD2 center section -> UUC System U. Oh, and now that I am back in Nashville, I'm getting the rest of my e36 parts up for sale. I still have lots of interior trim left, an aFe CAI for a stock HFM, some 21.5 lb/hr injectors, an M3 rear bumper in Cosmosswartz, and lots of other little bits.
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Dec 24, 2008 14:04
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:What color interior? Dove Grey
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Dec 25, 2008 00:53
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So, I'm losing oil. The car is a '90 325i, with an S52 swap done by Treehouse. It's mated to the stock 260 getrag Originally I thought it was just the valve cover gasket, which was infact leaking, but I'm still losing oil even after it was replaced. Just recently I noticed where it was going - after ragging on the car a bit, I noticed smoke coming from the top of the cats. There is no smoke from the exhaust, at WOT or otherwise, so I'm not burning oil - it's leaking somewhere. The leak ONLY seems to happen during hard driving. I see no drop on oil pressure. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the o-ring for the dipstick, but I see no leaks coming from it. The rear output seal on the trans was replaced recently. A week after, I saw no fluid on the rear of the tranny. There's quite a bit back there now (The whole tunnel around the driveshaft up to one or two feet behind the tranny seems wet). When the car is parked, it does not drip down like it did before I replaced the seal, so I don't think the tranny is the problem. Somehow oil is leaking under hard driving (High rpm, low gear accelleration) and wind is blowing it back onto the cats. I hope, anyway. I don't want to have to mess with replacing some of the transmission seals again. Any ideas to what is causing this?
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Apr 9, 2009 04:43
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Had a bit of an incident with a fence, and now I need a new passenger's side tail (the glass portion) for my late model e30. Any of you happen to have one to spare on a parts car somewhere? Seemed like most people that had a set up for sale didn't want to part with just one, and I don't blame them.
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Aug 26, 2009 04:30
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Just had the e30 S52 dyno'd. Made 247.6whp and 242.7ft-lbs! The odd part is, an e46 M3 put down 258whp an hour later. My friend's Saleen F150, which put down 310whp on a Dynojet made 289whp on this dyno, which is a Dynacom. Supposedly it reads 8% lower than a Dynojet. All the numbers were pretty consistant with the car and it's mods - a Boxster S put down 243 with minor mods. I'm just running a full dual 60mm exhaust with no x or h pipe, euro spec supersprint longtube reps, a 90 degree silicone reducer replacing the stock boot, a 3.5" HFM and CAI, 12 lb flywheel, M50 manifold, OBD1 conversion, and TRM software. There are schrick cammed cars making less power than I am on stock cams. And this dyno seems to be reading a little low. Hell, I've got an exhaust leak or two to take care of, and still haven't had the x-pipe made.
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Dec 20, 2009 02:53
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I have one of those skid plates, they work great.
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Jan 9, 2010 20:07
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   Found this baby sitting in a '96. Seems like it could be a great candidate for an M60 / M62 hybrid, but I need to find out if the motor is fudged. I don't think I can do a compression or leakdown test, so it seems my only option is to go back on thursday and yank the heads to see what's up. I've heard these motors are pretty tanky, so I'm hoping it's alright. Any recommendations? I posted this is my build thread, but I was hoping some M62 gurus might be lurking here
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Sep 20, 2011 22:02
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BrokenKnucklez posted:It really is a fantastic motor, but it is a little heavy. It does take 2 gallons of oil and does enjoy burning a little bit of it. Or leaking, which ever it prefers at the moment. Weight wise it seems only a wee bit heavier than my S52, but sits back farther. The swap won't be anything out of my reach, it'll be a cakewalk compared to the Ls1 swap we're doing in a customer's car. I've been told the M60 manifold is the best of the bunch. Also, apparently M60b40 heads will bolt right up, as will M60 duplex timing goodies. The M60 head will bump compression a little, and has dual valve springs, and hotter cams. Should make for an interesting build.
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Sep 21, 2011 19:48
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That and it's a stolen design that's taking money away from the businesses that put R&D into those designs. "Fake" parts are a big problem, and they are hurting lots of companies that make products you'd like.
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Sep 23, 2011 11:01
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BlackMK4 posted:I would imagine that the overlap of people who would spend $600 for a set of wheels versus $4000-$8000 for a set of wheels is very small, especially when you're dealing with cars worth $5-15k. Used factory wheels look better than fake 3 piece reps(those bolts are fake for fucks sake, how do you not hate that? plus BMW makes a crapton of different styles that people get rid of on the cheap), and there are plenty of other wheel manufactures that make cheaper priced wheels that are not reps and are not of questionable quality. Also used BBS LMs are fairly reasonable. I'd argue it hurts BBS more for there to be demand for reps rather than demand for used parts.
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Sep 24, 2011 00:27
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It's pretty easy, my starter shat out recently and I replaced it in about 2 hours total.
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Oct 13, 2011 16:44
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Crustashio posted:Those sound like the words of someone who has a threaded starter Nope, normal 260 getrag starter. Not sure if the S52 has less things in the way than an M20, though. I used extensions on a cordless impact underneath the car while holding a wrench on the other end to crack the bolts off. I removed it through the engine bay from the top. Plopped the new one in, and used extensions and the impact the get the bolts tightened - didn't end up needing the wrench for it. I love this fucker http://www.google.com/products/cata...ved=0CHYQ8wIwBA
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Oct 13, 2011 23:49
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The M30 is a tank as well if you end up with a 535i. Basic bits are slightly more expensive than an e30, but it should be easy on the wallet if you're doing the work yourself. If you take care of the car / the previous owner did, it should be extremely reliable.
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Oct 28, 2011 17:55
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The Third Man posted:Yeah, that's the worry. I'm basically trying to see if I can find a sub-2k car that's fun to wrench on, and I dunno if I can find an acceptable BMW in that range(other option I'm looking at is maybe a 4.0 Jeep). I think I can probably get around 4k for my miata if I clean it up, so that leaves me some emergency money and an interesting car to put a little money into. You can pretty easily find a serviceable e28 in that range.
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Oct 29, 2011 18:31
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root beer posted:1. The back windows don't roll down. When I bought it, the front ones didn't either, but replacing the circuit breaker under the steering column fixed them. I have 4 new switches that I'm going to be installing soon; might that fix the problem or is there something else I could check out? I miss my e28. Could be bad regulators - if you pop off the rear door panels you can trace the wires and give them direct power to see if they are functioning or not. Could be fuses, assuming you haven't checked them yet either. root beer posted:2. It doesn't like to start cold. It'll die if I don't lightly accelerate and warm it up for a minute. I was thinking a bad cold start sensor. Can't say I know enough about M20s to help with this one, but it might be worthwhile to pull the plugs. How does it run once warmed? Cap / rotor can be an issue also. root beer posted:3. The power locks don't work at all. I'd really like to get this fixed sooner than anything but I'm not even sure where to go about looking. This will take time to troubleshoot. Any number of small things can cause malfunctions in the power door locks. Try this link: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/48131 root beer posted:4. The battery light is constantly on. I don't know why; the battery is practically new, and the alternator definitely keeps it charged. Sounds like it could be SI board batteries. There's a small circuit board in the cluster for the service interval indicator. When the batteries in that board go bad, they can cause all sorts of cluster related problems. Also, fuel level senders in the tank could be bad if it's anything like the e30 (and it should be). If you've got a multimeter on hand it would be the best way to further check the battery light issue.
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Nov 8, 2011 00:04
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Eliptical posted:I'm about buy a my first car and an 07 Mini Cooper S is my main consideration but I'm having a hard time finding any detailed accounts of issues that year had. I know they really fixed up a lot of problems from the first gen, but I know german cars tend to have their quirks. Is there anything I should go in asking about or red flags that I should just walk away at the first sign of? Looks like that's an R56, one of the turbo ones. First year of that setup, though. I know of all sorts of problems with its predecessor, but I have no idea if they fixed those with the R56.
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Nov 9, 2011 03:24
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Confused_Donkey posted:Stuff Hey James, it's Corey. Didn't know you were a goon as well. Looks like there are quite a few r3v members on here!
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Feb 14, 2012 04:00
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