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BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Luk3 posted:



Picked this up last September. I've posted it a few times before, but it's a stock 330Ci ZHP.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience messing around with the camber on these. I was reading through the manual and it turns out that with a special tool you can adjust the camber in 5 degrees either way "fairly easily".

Has anyone actually got this special tool and used it? I thought it might be pretty useful for autocrosses if I could quickly change the camber before and after a race.

It probably is referring to rear camber adjustment--I don't know of a single stock 3 series model that can adjust front camber.

You can buy sweet camber plates from https://www.vorshlag.com

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BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Hadlock posted:

What the hell is so bad about the E36 cooling system?

Up until about 96, all the water pumps were made with plastic impellers, which destroy themselves at 50-80k. The mechanical fans like to break over time, sending fan blades into the hoses and/or radiator. Radiators necks tend to break, most likely by 100k.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

ynotony posted:

Quick Cooling question:

I've got a 110k 94' 325i that has a small cooling issue. I used to leave a small puddle of coolant in my parking spot every once in awhile - really small like a few ounces. I started noticing this right after I did a coolant flush a month ago. So I figure I have a leaky hose or something. But then the puddles went away, and my "check coolant level" thing started flashing. I topped it off with some extra water/coolant and then the puddles came back for a week. Then they stopped and my check coolant light came back on. Any theories?

I took a picture under the car and noticed GREEN coolant. My coolant used to be green but is now BLUE:


Also do any e36 owners have any coolant bleeding techniques?

Try looking around your thermostat housing. You may see buildup around the edges, if it's leaking out.

As for bleeding, see here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tec...olant-Flush.htm

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Noeland posted:

Methinks a PNW BMW goonmeet should be in order.

Sign up for the 4/11 BMWCCA driving school day at Pacific, I'll be there.

Zee M Coupe looks great!

BraveUlysses fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Mar 31, 2008

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

RandomG posted:

That sounds really tempting, I'll have to look if I can scavenge up the money and get the car to a point where I won't be paranoid about flogging it.

Well you need a track inspection ($35) from one of the local indie shops before they'll let you on the track and a BMWCCA membership ($50/yr) but the inspection would reveal any potential problems. There will be another event on 5/1 and I should be at that one too.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

miklm posted:

We managed to break one screwdriver and bend another, then break the plastic fan pulley, so your mileage may vary. It came off in a second with the right tool.

I recommend using a Park Tool Head Wrench 32mm. Put it on the reverse-threaded nut and hit it with a hammer.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

swampnutz posted:

My '97- Eibach springs, Koni SA externally adjustable shocks, RAID wheel, Rogue shifter, Conforti software, 91K miles...




Oh God I love your LTW wheels. Sharp lookin car.



In other news, my driving school at Pacific Raceways on Friday was nothing short of loving awesome. Weather was great, nobody went offcourse, minimal mechanical failures and I learned so much. Sunburns in April in Seattle are rare and to be cherished.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

ynotony posted:

I bought my 94' 325i with 90k miles a three years ago. What is the typical mileage at which the O2 sensors would be replaced? ~100k ish? I have no clue if the previous owner replaced the O2 sensors at anytime, and my average MPG seems to have fallen about 2MPG on the highway, and 1MPG in the city at 110K miles. I'm trying to make sense of it.

Doctor Grape Ape posted:

BMW says every 40-50k miles In actuality, probably much longer, but at 110k it's probably time to replace it. There is a good cheap DIY on using a Ford Econoline van O2 sensor and soldering it to your old connector to save some money. I did it, and it worked just fine.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/foru...light=econoline

It should be noted however, that this only works on 92-95 E36's. It does not work for OBDII vehicles.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Looks vaguely like an Alfa.


Voted 2002.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

miklm posted:

I've got a 27mm bar on a UPS truck en route, so I'm going to find out one way or another.

I've got a 28mm H&R (non-M fitment) set at full stiff and I love it.

Minimizing body roll and maintaining camber curve > a bit of understeer.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Dyscrasia posted:

I just got the parts in the mail. I did not realize that the center support was actually a bearing, like a regular wheel bearing/ball bearing. When I replaced the driveshaft on my Nissan, the center support was just a rubber piece. I figured this was the same.

I bet that this is the solution. Hopefully I will be able to find out for sure this weekend.

Pelican diy here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tec...aft_Bearing.htm

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Any Seattle goons going to the E30 Picnic at the XXX on Sunday? Biggest E30-only show in the US!

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Doctor Grape Ape posted:

So I installed my UUC Red Tranny mounts last night and took it for a spin and there is quite a bit of vibration around 1500rpm and they transmit a lot of road noise while on the interstate. It's possible that I over torqued them and that's the problem, but I'd like to know if anyone else has an experience with them. I knew there would be a little bit more NVH, but this is far beyond what I expected.

I'm going to re-torque them tomorrow and see if that fixes it, otherwise I'm going to order the UUC blacks + TMEs and sell this pair on BimmerForums.

Also, having a freshly rebuilt shifter feels amazing.

I've been lazy about installing my set of UUC tranny mounts...how hard are they to install?

You're only supposed to torque them to 16lb/ft, which is just past finger-tight.

usurper posted:

I was going to reply to you the last time you posted about this, but I figured you tried them out somewhere.

You didn't over torque them, they're racing spec bushings. They're meant to be like that. Get the black ones that UUC sells, or stock. Rob @ UUC must have 8/10 of those orders come back on those. I also don't think you'll need those enforcers. They're overkill.

There are two types of red transmission mounts--one are the street/track and one are "full race".

BraveUlysses fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Jul 6, 2008

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

chem42 posted:

BMW engines run forever, there is a guy on bimmerforums.com with over 600k on the original motor and transmission.

And that 600k is on the GM built Automatic Tranny, no less.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

I like my ZKWs but have no personal experience with the Depo/Apexcone headlights. I know the depos have less servicible parts, and just have a cheaper build quality (ZKW is an OEM manufacturer at least).

Going to start trans mounts and tranny fluid flush with Redline MTL in an hour or so...any suggestions for a pump that I can make/buy to get the fluid up into the fill hole?

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Art Vandelay posted:

Try calling Bavarian Auto Recycling - their prices aren't rock bottom but they're pretty reasonable.

FYI these guys are almost universally hated on bimmerforums for scamming, slow delivery or outright sales of incorrect parts.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Beerios posted:

The vast majority of the subframe failures were on the 1999-2000 323 and 328, if I recall correctly. It's been known to happen on the 325/330 (2001+) as well, but it's much, much less common.

All non-M E36's are susceptible to subframe failures, and E46's area already showing problems well under 100K mi, which looks like many more in the future as E46's continue to age.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Well I'm kinda tired of daily driving my beat 328i track/autox car and I'm considering a 99-00 M Coupe.

Any owners on here with any input on buying one? How different/similar of a driving experience is it compared to a e36? I'm aware of the subframe issues and plan on taking my time to select the right car this time (was in a rush when buying the 328).

It's such a shame how hard it is to find a good M Coupe that isn't silver or black

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Any M Coupe (99-02) owners? I'm thinking of picking one up in the next few months since this recession has really turned this into A buyers market. The main problem I'm seeing is that I'm not sure how well I'll fit in one and there are none nearby for me to sit in at a dealership. Anyone able to compare the driver's occupancy to that of a e36 sedan?

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

krysmopompas posted:

I fit into an e36, helmet on, with room to spare and I own a '99 M coupe.

I'm 6'1" and I can't track it since there's not enough headroom for a helmet. My legs fit pretty nicely, but the seats are fully back and any more length would be uncomfortable.

An average American waistline will present a problem as well.

well I am 6'4" and 210 so a test drive/sitting is in order.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

No need for new spring pads and bavauto sucks. Try RMEuropean or pelican parts.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

frozenphil posted:

I placed my first order with BavAuto last week and I doubt I'll be going back to them. The only reason I ordered from them was because they had the fan clutch tool in stock; according to their website anyway. Turns out they didn't actually have it in stock and didn't notify me it was on backorder (they told me they were supposed to be in Sep. 3rd when I asked how long of a wait I was looking at) until the box got to my house. I burned a day for nothing since I couldn't remove the fan clutch to do the water pump. I wasn't too pissed because it looks like the fan clutch burned up as well so I had to go ahead and order one of those from Pelican and the fan clutch tool from Amazon. Apparently the water pump bearing is wore out enough that it let the water pump droop forward allowing the fan to actually get caught behind the fan shroud, burning up the fan clutch. Luckily the fan and shroud stayed in one piece, somehow. At any rate, I don't like to support a company who can't update their website or at least notify you when you place your order that a part is back ordered. There's no excuse for it in 2008.

As an aside, what the gently caress is with BMW parts dealers and their atrocious shipping times? I order stuff for my '67 Mustang project all the time and their free shipping never takes more than 2 days to get to me. Why does it take every single BMW parts supplier on Earth at least a week to get parts to me?

Try buying a Park Tool 30/32mm wrench, available at all bicycle stores. It's a very thin wrench intended for bicycle head nut removal. 12-20 bucks too!

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

don't bother with the offset m3 lcabs, they're meant to be used with the appropriate 95 m3 lca's. Just get some 96+ centered m3 lcabs or pflex poly lcabs if you're a masochist.

I sat in a z3 coupe last weekend and I fit *perfectly* so I'm offically on the hunt for a m coupe

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Squirrelly Wrath posted:

I'm looking at e36s and while reading up I've gotten the impression that the early cars can have crappy interior build quality. Several sources mention that "later" cars are better built, and that this is sometime after '95 (or '97?). Does anyone have a definite date for when this improved interior was implemented? Was it when the A/C controls went from dials to digital, or before that? Is there any way to determine if a car has the better interior? Any personal experience regarding this? If I love solid interiors of the old Mercedes kind should I avoid e36s all together and look at e30/e34s?

Both e30 and e36 interiors have their faults: e30s have dashes that crack due to sun/heat and the face has a tendency to break/fail in some spots near the radio and headlight knob.

E36s have lovely door panel inserts which would start to delaminate on earlier cars. Headliners also seem to fall at some point but mine has yet to do so. Same with the door pillars. Glovebox sagging is common and usually only looks ugly but some will squeak (mine).

I wouldn't say that either should influence your choice in which vehicle to buy.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

well wish me luck, my wife and I are flying down to SF in an hour to pick up a gorgeous 91 318iS and drive it all the way back up the Oregon coast to Seattle.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Brock Landers posted:

Yay! Another '91 318iS owner! I think that makes 4 now. What color is yours and does it have the LSD?

Brilliantrot on tan vinyl interior, 115k, LSD.
$3900 + ~$350 expenses for airfare, beer, gas, food, ect.

We drove all the way from Petaluma to Eureka, stayed for the night and then headed up the 101 all the way to Lincoln city, which is where I gave up fighting the Priuses and RVs and headed to I-5 up to Everett.


Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.


Babe approved

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Brock Landers posted:

Twins!


I paid the same price, albeit with more miles, but a complete service history and a set of Bilsteins. Enjoy the car, they are an absolute blast.

Well your car looks like a much better deal, mine is already pissing oil. Oil pan coming off Saturday.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

I had no problem hitting 30mpg flogging my 318iS up the coast along the 101 last week. I got 29mpg driving 70-75 the rest of the way back.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

sigh, makes me really wonder if I have the limited slip or not.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

I went out and tested it today and I do in fact have the LSD!

I've ripped off the valve cover and intake manifold, in an effort to track down all the oil leaks. The valve cover gasket was leaking and the PCV breather hose leaking like crazy. I'm hoping these were the only oil leaks, but who knows when you're dealing with a BMW .

Both the upper and lower oil pans are coming off tomorrow to see if the "whats locktite precious?" oil pump bolts have backed out.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

pulled the oil pan yesterday, ALL 6 bolts which hold the upper oil pan on had fallen out! The gasket is the only thing holding it on!

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

none whatsoever. Pull the pan, it's easy and the gasket is cheap.

That oil leak actually saved my engine, by forcing me to deal with it.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Diesel water wetter is better for the fdm because it doesn't produce the disgusting oil slick that will be floating in the coolant reservoir.

I've never had any problems with my clutch stop. Have you tried changing the trans or clutch fluids?

I spent two hours last night trying to get 19 y/o paper gaskets off my m42 oil pan. Sigh. Permatex gasket remover still didn't help much.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Bronzit = barf

No chance that car is worth such a premium. It's been up for sale on and off for months on end.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

I've been rocking a set of k1's and 245/40's b'stone re01r's for over 15k miles on the street, 100+ autocross runs, 3 track days and no problems. I rubbed a bit up front with a stock suspension and when I didn't have enough negative camber. Consider 235's if you want to spend less and worry less about tire rub.

Do you have a stock suspension?

Don't even consider a staggered setup or 225's on a m3.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

And the lifter tick can get pretty bad if you've done some hard driving (autocross).

I skipped out on a day of double overtime to finish up the work on my 318iS and I had it running by noon. Watched it for leaks while it warmed up...running smoothly, excellent. Coolant began to piss from one of the hoses deep under the intake...gently caress!

Spend 3+ hours taking it all apart again, tighened the poo poo out of the hose. Double check everything, fire it up...runs like poo poo and stalls. gently caress.

I think I'm just getting really tired of fixing poo poo on these cars, my loving e36 is a mess too. I think I'll just get the 318 fixed up, sell it and part out the 328.

I like driving cars, not fixing poo poo and using up all my spare time.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Fiiiiiiiiiiinally got the 318iS up and running after a month. I had only driven it for 5 days since owning it.

Still not sure if I'll keep it or pick up an s2k.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Don't take his word for it on the subframe. Don't believe a word he says until you look at the trunk floor and get underneath the rear. It's so expensive to fix.

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Oil leaks, oil leaks and a few more oil leaks. Oil pan hangs low, tends to find hard objects. Vacuum leaks are common too, due to an overcomplicated mess of hoses under the intake manifold. Profile gasketwill fail at some point but most cars had it fixed by now. Google it for more info. Same lovely coolant system problems common to all BMWs are present.

Buy mine, I fixed all the problematic stuff already.

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BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002


Grimey Drawer

Well take a flashlight and look thoroughly at everything under the hood. If they did the headgasket hopefully they were smart enough to not reuse the profile gasket.

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