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miklm posted:The coolant overflow/reservoir is a plastic bottle that will eventually break. Some of the thermostat housings were made of plastic.... Quick Cooling question: I've got a 110k 94' 325i that has a small cooling issue. I used to leave a small puddle of coolant in my parking spot every once in awhile - really small like a few ounces. I started noticing this right after I did a coolant flush a month ago. So I figure I have a leaky hose or something. But then the puddles went away, and my "check coolant level" thing started flashing. I topped it off with some extra water/coolant and then the puddles came back for a week. Then they stopped and my check coolant light came back on. Any theories? I took a picture under the car and noticed GREEN coolant. My coolant used to be green but is now BLUE:  Also do any e36 owners have any coolant bleeding techniques?
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Mar 29, 2008 12:20
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It was confirmed today that BMW is will be offering a tii model for the 1-series and 3-series. The 3 series tii due out as early as this fall: M3 brakes, 19" wheels, stiffer suspension, DCT, (LSD?), (Less weight with lighter/smaller engine?). http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/News/Search-Results/Industry-News/BMW-tii-models-are-go/?content-block=0 We all know that BMW has claimed to reduce power and weight for the F-series, and I really hope they do. Something that weighs as much as my e36 (~3100lbs), but with a little more power/efficiency from a modern engine would be magnificent.
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Apr 3, 2008 04:58
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Propagating the latest tii rumor: turbo charged four cylinder engine with an 11k rpm red line for the new 3 and 1 series. http://www.autoblog.com/2008/04/09/rumormill-bmw-working-on-twin-turbo-four-cylinder/
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Apr 9, 2008 19:51
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I bought my 94' 325i with 90k miles a three years ago. What is the typical mileage at which the O2 sensors would be replaced? ~100k ish? I have no clue if the previous owner replaced the O2 sensors at anytime, and my average MPG seems to have fallen about 2MPG on the highway, and 1MPG in the city at 110K miles. I'm trying to make sense of it.
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Apr 13, 2008 22:15
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Guinness posted:The E36 is an all around decent car, and will handle a bit better than an E34, but you will immediately notice a large gap in general build quality. E36s are pretty cheap feeling in my opinion, which may or may not matter to you. Just to offer another opinion, an E34 interior was born in 1987, and the E36 interior was born in 1992. I drive an '94 E36 and the inside is much more modern feeling than my friend's '95 E34 and I like it better. The E36 also stopped production in 1999 so it looks newer on the outside as well. As for build quality I haven't noticed a difference between the two.
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Apr 16, 2008 03:42
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:Is the 318i really unbearably slow? There are some good deals out there on a few and I don't really need a speed machine since I have a sport bike for that. The e30 318is is a lot of fun despite being down on power. The e36 318is is a loving dog and doesn't make up for power by being super light and nimble like the e30. Honestly just test drive and see what you like.
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Apr 16, 2008 22:16
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Daveh posted:So who needs savings? Well I do, but apparently my dad doesn't. Man, that car looks weird with a black roof and a dark/shadow background. In those pictures it looks like it has two white rails along the side and no windows at all.
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May 24, 2008 01:03
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Pissingintowind posted:Another humble request for you OBDII E36 coupe goons: What an odd question... The trunk can be opened whenever you unlock all the door no matter what. The trunk is the only keyhole that doesn't central unlock. The trunk is also the only keyhole that central locks while it is open (the only possible way to lock your keys in your car is in the trunk). Also a fun fact, if you lock your doors from the outside it is impossible for them to be unlocked from the inside. Even if someone is inside trying to open the door. Good trick to play on friends.
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Jun 4, 2008 19:01
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Pissingintowind posted:Did you actually try it? When you "double" lock the trunk by turning the key all the way clockwise, the actual cylinder would have to rotate to unlock it again. I don't think it is supposed to. Oh I guess I didn't understand your question. You want me to lock my car, then go to the trunk and lock it doubly? Either way the key as to be vertical to pull it out doesn't it? I'll try it in the morning, too lazy now. Switching topics: (1994 325i, 110k) After a complete flush and fill up in November, the check coolant message is back. I've been slowly dripping and every month or so a 6oz puddle forms over night. The leak, as far as I can tell, is not from the thermostat, radiator, pump, or reservoir. I can see where it trickles down my engine but not where it's coming from. I'm guessing it is a very hidden gasket/seal somewhere. Should I just forfeit to the shop? And given that parts are pretty cheap, should I consider having them replace all my hoses and stuff for piece of mind or is that some kind of nightmare procedure?
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Jun 5, 2008 06:18
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ethanol posted:Is it worth spending the extra money to get a '96 328 instead of a cheaper 325 for the extra torque? I had to make the same decision two years ago. I ended up with an older, cheaper, and lower mileage 325i with better service records. I did miss the torque for awhile, but it wasn't worth an extra $2,000 for a similarly aged 328i. I year later I chipped it and that spread out the power a bit more and it made a HUGE difference in day to day driving for a couple hundred bucks. The chip adds a little more peak HP/TQ too, but the amount of extra torque gained under 3k rpm was so delicious.
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Jun 23, 2008 02:18
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Brock Landers posted:Is... is the driver oriented cockpit making a comeback? I sure hope that's what I'm seeing here. It's only a very slight skew, but it's a start. Maybe in 7 more years it'll come back all the way. I think the new front end looks great after some initial getting used to. Only thing I kind of wish for is some kind of special treatment to the rear fenders. They looks so plain. 
ynotony fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Jul 10, 2008 |
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Jul 10, 2008 15:00
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New 3-series facelift below. The new one is on bottom. Anyone else suddenly bugged by how high up the kidneys are on this car (both versions)? Thankfully it looks like with the new 7-series the next chassis generation of all their cars will have lower kidneys.
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Jul 11, 2008 18:03
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Sterndotstern posted:My rule of thumb when considering any used BMW, especially E36s is: tack on no less than $1500 for parts to refresh the car post purchase. Cooling is the big one. I bought my 90k e36 three years ago and I've had a little fund sitting around for replacing the major cooling components. Makes dropping a buttload of money on parts/labor way easier. edit: I should say things are holding up well now but I'm going to get the major components replaced as well as getting all my hoses and seals checked because I've got a small leak. Fixing before it breaks is key. ynotony fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jul 11, 2008 |
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Jul 11, 2008 20:01
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About to kill myself. Just spent a lot of money having an overdue refresh on my E36 cooling system done because it had a leak and a perpetual "check coolant level" warning. The major components were replaced along with the minor original components, system tested at 30ps+, refilled, bled, etc... Drove it home 15 miles and the check coolant message came back on. Gonna wait for it to cool down and then see what's up. Yip!
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Aug 8, 2008 20:57
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Cracked rad side tanks, cracked overflow tank or a bad coolant level sensor maybe? Overflow tank and coolant level sensor were replaced. Nothing was leaking for the five minutes I had my head under the car. I am just hoping it's working properly and all I really need to do is "check coolant level" and top it off with some distilled water. I just hope more air doesn't get trapped in the system. At least I have hot air at idle now - maybe that is where some coolant disappeared to and it took running the car with the heater on to trigger sensor.
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Aug 8, 2008 22:16
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Edit: In related E36 cooling news I've been running my car with the fan delete mod in the hot as balls weather Florida has been having and the temperature has never gone beyond the 12 o clock position. Yea... I did that for a few months and it was reporting 12-oclock. I did it out of necessity because my fan exploded and I was 300miles away from my trusted shop. The general consensus is that it is fine to do in the sense that you won't blow a head gasket immediately, but the car was designed with the fan for a reason and the dummy temp gauge will report high-noon even if you are at the top of the acceptable operating temp. I replaced my engine mounts to stop my fan exploding and put it back in right away. The only exception to this is if you actually install a proper auxiliary fan that is on most of the time.
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Aug 9, 2008 01:56
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Das Volk posted:I've been thinking about grabbing a 3 or 5 series sedan with an inline 6 and a manual. I'd like to spend 10k or less as it'll be a DD - which of the E34/6/9/46 lines should I look at and/or stay away from? Below 10k is where a bunch of model prices seem to converge. You can pick up a late nineties e39 (528i) or e36 (328i) for under 10k easily. The e34 and e46 will end up on the two extremes of your budget. I assume you already know the differences between a 5 and 3 so I won't get into it. They'll both use the same engines and both feel the right amount of "sporty" given their chassis. The e39 will feel less dated than the e36 if you care.
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Aug 25, 2008 03:42
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CornHolio posted:well gently caress. You just have to knock it hard, maybe turn the fan the other way at the same time? I did it with a regular wrench. I just had all my major cooling components replaced in my 113k e36 (except the radiator) and it cost me $400 labor at an independent shop... so you can use that as a reference.
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Aug 29, 2008 15:49
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^^ could have been replaced with another plastic one.CornHolio posted:To do the upper/lower hose and expansion tank (which I also had) the labor balloons to over $700. Why is that? I thought those were pretty easy to do once you're in there. Like I said, my shop did everything (pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, upper/lower hoses, expansion tank, fan + shroud... plus I tacked on new belts, tensioners, and motor since they were in there) for $400 labor. It's one of the more expensive indie shops in the area too. Premium on parts was reasonable when I compared to OEM.
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Aug 30, 2008 00:19
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Driving on the highway and I hear a loud "pop" from the gear shift, a rattle, then a constant buzz sound. The car remained in gear buzzing a lot and then it eventually went away. Scared the gently caress out of me but now the shifter is all wobbly despite being able to select all gears just fine. Probably need new bushings and maybe more, but what the hell would cause it to pop so violently? This is a 1994 325i with 114k miles.
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Sep 16, 2008 19:40
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Brock Landers posted:Parts should be no more than $500 and figure a Saturday to put it all in. No special tools other than a 32mm wrench for the fan nut. Oh and make sure to put a new fan clutch in while you're at it. Figure out what caused the problem before you throw parts at it. Mine did the same thing but it was because the fan was an inch closer to the shroud/radiator than it should have been. It destroyed everything. This ended up being because of dead motor mounts and everything was sliding forward under braking. The fan clutch is probably fine...
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Oct 2, 2008 05:15
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Jabel posted:Got word from my parents earlier today that they put a deposit or placed an order (Not sure) on a 335d for when they arrive stateside. I believe its based of the N54 (correct me if I'm wrong)so it should be a reliable motor right? Just hoping some of you might know more about it like real world economy and how it compares to the 335i. The N54 runs on gas, and the 335d (M57...I think) does not. The economy is on par with a 4cyl accord which is pretty great. The combined cycle should return mid-high 20s where the gas engine returns low 20s. But this car isn't all about economy - your parents will probably never make up the premium they paid for the 335d over the 335i. The premium gives you a boat load of torque and a different driving experience that many people prefer. I can't wait to test it out myself, even though I typically enjoy reving past 4000rpm and a manual transmission more.
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Oct 20, 2008 21:35
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My e36 325i shifter has turned to mush and needs some refreshing. I've read that putting an e36 m3/328i lever will reduce the throw by 33% (similar results from the Z3 lever) but I cannot find either of these levers for sale anywhere. The only lever I've found is for "E36 all" which doesn't sound too promising.
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Oct 28, 2008 01:59
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Pimpsolo posted:Also don't forget to get all the other associated bushings otherwise you're wasting your time, and won't get the full effect. It's a pretty bitch of a job to do, in my opinion, but sooo worth results if your shifter is really as sloppy as you say. Yea I'm going to have all the bushings replaced too. I'll probably end up paying for labor because it looks like one of those not very hard but tests your patience jobs. This all started when driving on the highway I hear a loud pop and buzz sound from the gear shift. Buzz has gone away but now shifter has a LOT of play in it.
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Oct 28, 2008 07:20
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Jivesauce posted:Street Car: Do you happen to know what level of tint you have?
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Nov 14, 2008 02:40
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XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:I'm sure this question has been asked here before.... I tried looking through page after page and didnt see a response, so sorry if this comes up a lot. Your horsepower figures are correct. Don't pay too much attention to the year unless you are thinking '09 when the car received a facelift and new idrive and stuff. Just focus on the model numbers. Also you shouldn't get hung up on the BMW marketing horsepower figures, so I am not going to mention them. Also "fast" means different things to different people so I am putting it in quotes. The 325i will feel underpowered for you. The 328i and 330i will definitely be hovering around the same power as the M3, but will feel different considering they weigh another 200-300lbs and are bigger and more refined. BUT, depending on how you drive the M3, the 330i/328i might feel just as "fast". I am pretty sure you'd be happy with the 330i especially because in the last 10 years BMW engines have become generally much smoother and better all-round (not just peak power ratings). They have more power in more places and so they feel much quicker in everyday driving situations. But again this depends on how you drive the car. And the 335i is a rocket. ynotony fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Nov 15, 2008 |
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Nov 15, 2008 17:44
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Just sharing some e36 knowledge I learned today. For the past couple months I would get this shudder/vibration from the center rear of my car under full throttle at speeds less than 40mph. Only full throttle, and only when I wasn't going too fast. I was under my car recently and noticed the Flex Disc that connects the drive shaft to the transmission is all cracked and worn out. This is a 1994 with 110k miles. Looked up the symptoms with a "Flex Disc" qualifier and it turns out it is the source of the problem.
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Nov 21, 2008 05:53
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Got my new Flex disc and lever installed today (1994 325i). I can now accelerate without the driveshaft feeling like it is about to explode into a million pieces. My shifter is also super notchy and awesome that I actually sat in my garage for a good 30 seconds or so shifting gears. Question about clutch stops. I have one in my car and it makes driving much more enjoyable, but I've heard from two people that it will destroy your synchros in the long run. Any opinions here? I see more support than dissent online.
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Dec 2, 2008 05:16
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New z4 anybody? I'm not sure if I appreciate the lowest common denominator approach with a hard-top-convertible but at least it looks good from behind: (catalogue picture leak) All the crazy reflections on the hood make the front hard to judge, but I'd say it has a 50/50 shot at coming out good: (on the set of some movie being filmed) 
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Dec 5, 2008 00:36
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Xenoid posted:Looks too Z3 (clownshoe) and not Z4 enough for me. The Z4 is my favourite looking BMW (the hardtop especially) and I was thinking of test driving one just because they're incredibly sexy..I think they might be too low on power coming from a 540 though. The current Z4 is at the end of a cycle, not the middle, so the new one is effectively a new car. You shouldn't expect it to look like the old one, and it certainly doesn't look anything like the Z3. The new one will have the twin turbo I6 with over 300 horsepower, so power shouldn't be an issue. That being said, the current Z4 is only very slightly down on power but also 800lbs lighter than your 540i. It doesn't have that lazy V8 grunt but it is much much faster.
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Dec 5, 2008 01:03
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JaySB posted:So, the M3 (E36) is getting retardedly hot. At idle or anything under 50mph it gets red. The only reason it's cooling down at speed, I'm guessing, is because there's enough air flow to cool the motor... Auxiliary fan delete? My Auxiliary fan only comes on with the A/C or if I'm idling for a long time. So under normal driving its absence shouldn't be an issue. See if your car cools down if you drive it around at a constant 4,000 RPM (regardless of MPH). Driving at a higher RPM will speed up your water pump and increase the coolant flow. Airflow shouldn't be the issue, you probably have a leak somewhere and don't have enough coolant. Check your coolant reservoir (only when the car is cold!!). As another check, next time your car gets up to temperature check and see if your heater is working properly. At idle, and at anything other can cold operating temperature, the heater should be blowing hot air constantly.
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Dec 5, 2008 18:50
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two_beer_bishes posted:Why the gently caress would my turn signals be buzzing at me? Sounds like you need a new turn signal relay. Sounds exactly like that.
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Dec 9, 2008 15:44
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More picture?   And I am assuming this is the designer, Juliane Blasi. And she is hot. That makes the car hotter. 
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Dec 14, 2008 04:47
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Pissingintowind posted:fan delete. My fan kept exploding right around year 13/110k miles so I ran without it for a few months and my cooling was fine. But now my car is all patched up and the fan back in. The reasoning is if your fan is exploding, SOMETHING IS WRONG. In my case it was engine mounts, and my engine was sliding forward under braking and shoving the fan into the shroud. The involved tolerances with an engine that is sliding around adds up to other components too, as you can imagine. So my advice to you is make it so your fan does not explode first, and then decide if you want to modify your system for a fan delete. A fan exploding is a indicator/symptom - it's not the problem. Now for my own question: have any of you E36ers installed a clutch stop? I put a modest one in a year ago (as in not dramatically short pedal travel) and I'm starting to feel like putting the lever into 1st is becoming a little stubborn. I have since removed it, but maybe its in my head? Any thoughts?
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Feb 4, 2009 02:50
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McSnatch posted:Anyone? How's the idle? Will it idle for a long time without any issues?
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Feb 18, 2009 16:08
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So my key cylinder stopped working on my e36 325i last night. The car is stuck in the "On" position but the key moves freely from position "Off" to position "Start". The car stays on and the steering wheel unlocked even when the key is completely out. Luckily I can push start the car, and disconnect the battery go back to "on" mode when I reconnect. It appears to be a $500-$700 dealer fix, which hurts, but someone in this random thread seems to have a solution: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458275 Any reason not to try? It's not a very well documented problem/solution. Should I just bite the bullet? Can a key cylinder/tumbler replacement be done by an indie shop or is it strictly a dealer thing (like most key related stuff)?
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Mar 2, 2009 18:47
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BraveUlysses posted:Are you sure it's really toast? Mine has been half working for a while. Try twisting the steering wheel a bit and pushing the key in a bit harder. I've found for whatever reason that my car seems to care which side of the key is oriented when I make it work. When I get home I'm going to try using my spare key that I had freshly cut and haven't really used. I remember pushing it in as hard as I could last night as if the key needed to be just a mm further in to engage a mechanism but had no luck. I can spin the key freely though through all positions which makes me think something might be completely dislodged/broken. When you experience problems does the car ever remain in an "on" state even when the key is taken out?
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Mar 2, 2009 22:54
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BraveUlysses posted:Mine never got stuck in the on position, it will spin and not engage the steering lock unless I push in really hard while turning gently/jostling the key. I tried a fresh key, I tried pushing it hard, no luck. I took apart the ignition switch, and noticed the cylinder wasn't turning properly with the key. I can start the car with the ignition switch, but of course now my steering wheel is locked so its useless. I think its dealership time for a new custom cut cylinder from germany. This is going to hurt plenty. Anyone know how to get the steering wheel to unlock? That would make life much easier because I could actually drive to the dealer.
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Mar 3, 2009 02:50
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Jonny 290 posted:It is a done deal. I have a beautiful, babied and exclusively dealer-maintained Calypso Red '95 4-door E36 in my driveway and it is the most loving gorgeous, fun and comfortable thing I have ever driven. I want to relive the experience of bringing home my e36 nearly four years ago. Post pictures!
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Mar 5, 2009 06:38
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| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 04:42 |
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ynotony posted:So my key cylinder stopped working on my e36 325i last night. The car is stuck in the "On" position but the key moves freely from position "Off" to position "Start". The car stays on and the steering wheel unlocked even when the key is completely out... Verdict for any curious e36 owners. Keep this nugget of knowledge in the back of your head: From what I've gathered from my independent mechanic, the internet, and the dealer: the tumbler and steering lock assembly are common failures that occurs after N number of key turns. An inevitability, really - even the receptionist lady new exactly what my problem was when I described it over the phone. It can be accelerated by a heavy key chain and by doing that jerky steering wheel thing you need to do once in awhile to get the key to turn. A stubborn key is a warning sign. My car is a 1994 and failed at 115k miles, and luckily it happened while parked conveniently at home. Sometimes the two parts fail at the same time, sometimes one and then the other, but both will eventually fail - so most dealers and indie shops will recommend replacing both when either fails. Roughly $300 parts and 4 hours of labor because it involves taking apart the entire steering column and ordering a custom cut tumbler from Germany. Be gentle during insertion boys.
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Mar 5, 2009 17:40
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