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snugglz posted:really gotta finish my current project first tho (needs better suspension, some breathing mods and some other small stuff): I'm interested in this. I really love your ti. Honestly when I was looking for cars it was either an e46 coupe, or 318ti (ended up e46.) If when you've "finished" your project and you want to sell it, honestly consider me first please. I'd like to see more pics of it and what you're doing to it. Sweet ti.
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Apr 1, 2008 02:17
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Geek Icon posted:I drive a 2008 Mercedes C200. GET.THE.gently caress.OUT.OF.THIS.THREAD. uncrfe I know that car is so tempting but I've made the mistake of buying project cars like that. They're not projects in that you're going to have to tear them down, chop off rust, weld in a new frame and do an engine swap project. You see it like "Ah, I can drive it like this for a while, no biggie" Then everything breaks and you never actually get around to fixing the cosmetic stuff. Right when you have enough saved up to get those vaders, the vanos takes a poo poo. Ya know? Don't make the mistake.
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Apr 4, 2008 13:51
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two_beer_bishes posted:Having a problem with my 325e: Oh man, I have this exact same problem. I bought the car like this so I didn't know it was abnormal. It's been really easy for me to live with (I just keep it above 2,500 until it warms up heh,) but it'd be nice to fix it. When you find out the solution, please tell me.
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Apr 27, 2008 13:37
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wolrah posted:Not as impressive as Daveh's dad's M3, but I got rid of my stock tail lights and installed some M3-style LED units today. Are these OEM? or ebay ones? I ask not to knock on you, because I've seen great results from ebay lights for BMWs (no sarcastic). Because the price of the OEM LED lights plus the equipment you need to allow the electric connectors to work with the LED lights, the price exceeds $600. The ebay ones, by comparison, look high quality and are a fifth of the price. I just never new anyone who bought e46 LED ebay tail lights and could attest to their quality. They look great either way. It's either those, or the regular bulb ones that are just red and white, I really don't like the amber on my otherwise greyscale car.
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May 26, 2008 01:50
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My e46 2000 328Ci started having this problem where my speedometer would stop working. If you stopped, turned the car off, and turned it back on, the speedometer would work again. A few weeks later the ABS light would come on when I turned on the car and stay on for about 30 seconds or so. I kind of ignored it because I wasn't 100% familiar with the car yet. This lasted about a day until I was reversing out of my driveway and the car just locked all four brakes. I was able to overcome the brakes and force it back on to my driveway. I turned the car off but heard a buzzing noise coming from the rear passanger side of the engine bay (where the abs computer and lines are). I disconnected the ABS computer wiring harness and all brakes released. I plugged it back in, and they all locked up again. I am able to drive the car with the ABS computer disconnected, although the check engine, ABS, DSC, and "brake" light are all lit, and speedometer and odometer don't work. My initial guess is maybe a wheel speed sensor, but I would assume if one failed, it would err on the side of NOT locking up all four wheels in traffic!. Either way, the Swell posted:I did the seal replacement. You know, I never thought to ask the question but aside from slightly reduced performance, surging and the audible ticking, are there any serious downsides to allowing the VANOS seal to be in that condition indefinitely? Not that my VANOS seal is bad yet, but I guess it's only a matter of time.
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Jun 24, 2008 16:46
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SiGmA_X posted:To me it sounds like your ABS module ate the bucket. If you were in Portland OR, I'd help you figure it out... Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that mean I would HAVE to buy the replacement module from the dealership because don't they need to be programed for the specific car they're in (vin, mileage etc)?
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Jun 25, 2008 06:25
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VacaGrande posted:Vortex Motorsport Thanks a lot, I just emailed them, we'll see if they can diagnose this. I think SiGmA_X may be right, that it's the ABS module. If it is, I found this site http://www.modulemaster.com/ that seems to specalize in module rebuilds. My main worry is that no matter what shop I bring it to to scan, they'd want to rape me on the labor of bleeding my brakes and removal and installation. It looks like I could just easily pluck out my ABS module and send it to module masters, avoid reprogramming (since it's the same module, right?) bleed the brakes, install the new pads and rotors I just ordered, and get everything back tip top for the fee of whatever modulemaster charges. On a side note, what brake fluid replacement do you all suggest for an e46? On another side note, I live in Florida (read: hot) and I filled my e30 325e with 10w30 because I had a ton left over from a previous car. I hear a bit of ticking every once in a while, and it seeps a tiny bit of oil. I hear a 15w50 might be good to take care of both, what's everyone's opinion?
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Jun 29, 2008 01:13
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CornHolio posted:I love seeing v12's shoehorned into 3 series cars. I don't remember where I found this picture, but it looks like a nice job:
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Aug 6, 2008 05:20
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Nait Sirhc posted:That violet is absolutely stunning. I've never seen an M3 (or any e46 for that matter) in that color. How did you get it? Are there other "secret" factory colors like that? A little secret is that with some prodding, you can get your new BMW painted just about any color they ever made at the factory. http://m3.madrussian.net/indextcolors.shtml quote:Important Note Regarding the BMW Individual Program (courtesy of StoneWalk, the sage of RoadFly M3 Board):
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Aug 6, 2008 05:50
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snowman posted:Does the 318ti have the same problem with the subframe failure? Nope. 318ti uses the semi-trailing arm rear suspension from the e30, which is a totally different design from all other e36's. "- A very few of the E46 3-series cars have an issue where the rear subframe tears away from the car. You can recognize the problem by odd, random clunking sounds coming from the back when you go over bumps. It's expensive to fix but it's rare and people in online forums like to exaggerate how widespread it is." Some people like to downplay how widespread it is, but it's been known to happen on even later model, already reinforced e46 m3s. It's also much more of a pain to install the kit on e46s than e36s. I think people don't realize how widespread it is because the vast majority of e46 owners would never think to check, and would never notice a problem like that. Also that BMW would probably make anyone that has the failures fixed at the dealer sign non-disclosure agreements; but that's just me posturing. Read:Completely hypothetical
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Aug 25, 2008 01:32
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Sigma X posted:Which would tend to indicate that the 318 is susceptible. Touche. Which would then implicate the e30 is susceptible? I could be wrong here but I haven't heard anything about e30s having the subframe problem. I won't lie, I'm not an expert on the specific differences in design between e30, e36 318ti, and z3 rear subframe mounts, but I suspect that the z3 has some feature different from the e30 and 318ti that make the z3 more susceptible because I haven't heard about failures in either 318ti or e30s ever really. Good point though. You know it just occurred to me also that they attribute the cause of subframe failures to high torque. The M Coupes, and M Z3s, and really even the 2.5 z3s are putting way more power to the differential than the typical 318ti or e30. Maybe it's a displacement thing?
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Aug 26, 2008 05:13
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Das Volk posted:Why are 7 series so cheap? you'd think a car that expensive from 8 or 9 years ago would be worth a little more. One, really isn't a lot of the reason someone buys a 7 series kind of a status thing? You hardly portray high status in a decade old car. It isn't that they handle particularly well. They're relatively big and heavy compared to the much more abundant 5 or 3 series. I think mostly though, they're much more expensive to repair than their 3 or 5 series counterparts and have more things to break in the first place. Thus, for someone looking to buy a 8 or 9 year old BMW, their options are basically limited to
Edit kinda beaten Pimpsolo fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Aug 26, 2008 |
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Aug 26, 2008 05:30
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Adnuo posted:My E46 key fob died a week ago. does anyone know of clever ways to open the keys and somehow replace the battery, possibly with a non-rechargeable one? http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=451510 This guide should be quite valuable to you. It shows you how to take it apart (not quite as easy as using a screw driver to pull apart, but not impossible,) what battery to replace it with, and generally where to find it. Good luck. maxallen posted:The gently caress... I just walked out to my car, someone stole the passenger side kidney grill. Nothing else. It wasn't smashed or anything like that, it was pulled off the bodywork. I'm not sure, but it may not have even been violently taken. I'm so confused. The plastic clips on the grills can get very brittle over time. Mine fell out while I was driving actually. I weighed all the options and decided the OEM one at the dealer wasn't very expensive. The aftermarket one seem to be fairly low quality, and the OEM does have the painted sections on the inside. I thought the blacked out, CFed out, and SOUPA CHROMED out all looked a little cheesy, so I actually bought two brand new grills. You don't notice how rough the chrome looks on one, until you put a brand new one on the other side.
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Sep 18, 2008 18:22
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CornHolio posted:Interesting... on my way home today I went over a nasty crack in the road (seriously, gently caress the roads around here) and ever since, my speedometer won't work for the first 4-5 seconds after I take off from a stop (it seems to be time-related and not speed-related) Not to freak you out, but this is basically what happened to my car before the abs computer wacked out on my e46. I'm still not 100% certain about what is wrong yet, but we've narrowed it down to a speed sensor and the abs pump. We haven't replaced either yet so that might help you narrow it down. What ended up happening to me was, after a while the speedo would take longer and longer to start (over the course of like two weeks,) and eventually all four of my brakes locked up while I was driving. I disconnected the abs computer and was able to unlock the brakes and drive again. Good luck!
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Oct 12, 2008 03:29
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ynotony posted:My e36 325i shifter has turned to mush and needs some refreshing. I've read that putting an e36 m3/328i lever will reduce the throw by 33% (similar results from the Z3 lever) but I cannot find either of these levers for sale anywhere. The only lever I've found is for "E36 all" which doesn't sound too promising. Also don't forget to get all the other associated bushings otherwise you're wasting your time, and won't get the full effect. It's a pretty bitch of a job to do, in my opinion, but sooo worth results if your shifter is really as sloppy as you say.
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Oct 28, 2008 03:49
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Let me guess, do you have this thing surrouning your guibo? Now I didn't have that, but my friend's car did and I had NO idea how to get the driveshaft unbolted. What we actually ended up doing was dremmeling the drat thing off. There's got to be a better way? I was about to post in the thread with that image in it to ask what is the correct way. I couldn't even find that part on realoem or anything, or any reference to it anywhere. And if that isn't the case well, I'd say keep trying, it's possible to do. And look at all the diagrams and really understand what's going on. It's worth it.
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Oct 28, 2008 04:18
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CornHolio posted:and its making silly noises over speedbumps now. Well, if you want to get rid of the silly noises, I doubt replacing the springs and shocks will cure the problem (depending on the noise of course.) And depending on where the noises are coming from (I'll assume the front) it could be a matter of the lower control arm bushings, which you wouldn't need a press for at all, so long as you buy the prepressed "lollipop," which isn't very much more expensive, and vastly easier (I've done the job many many times, and am at a point where if I need to replace them again, I'd probably buy them pre-pressed. Of course the noises could very well be coming from any of the joints on your control arm, and if the control arms have never been replaced on your car, than this is most certainly the source of some of your noises, and steering slop. Lastly, this would be a good time to make sure your tie rods aren't the source of the clunk. Honestly, with the car's mileage, I would replace all of those things, which you basically would have to unbolt anyway to put on shocks and springs and never have to worry about the front of your car for another 100k. Honestly the hardest part of the whole thing is unbolting and removing the center lower control arm balljoint. To answer your question about the shocks, I think Sachs you're talking about are generally considered the sporty OE replacement, whereas the consensus would probablly lead you to the Bilsteins being more performance oriented.
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Nov 1, 2008 16:29
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^Okay I guess he knows the secret.CornHolio posted:How hard is it to replace tie rods (do I need a puller) and do I need to replace the whole thing or just the ends? I found a secret that I'm not sure other people know about, but if you remove the whole brake caliper bracket (two bolts, you shouldn't even need to remove the caliper from the bracket,) you should easily have enough room to just hammer the balljoint bolt from the top with one swing. I was ecstatic when I discovered this because I haden't seen it in any write ups. Maybe there's a reason? I find it's much easier to do it that way, and you won't need a pickle fork or puller. You should replace the entire tie rod assembly in order to eliminate both problem areas (the inner (2.) and outer(1.) joint, which both have a tendency to fail. In my experience though, it's the inner joint that gives first, and you'll basically be destroying the outer joint (which your boot is already torn and joint probably shot) by using a pickle fork on it anyway. Long story short, I don't think it's wise to replace one end. Also it's likely that the clunks would come from the inner joint, so I would bet that both of your joints are bad. Also don't forget to buy new power steering rack boots which cover the joint. They're super cheap, and over time they dry out and crack which leaves your rack susceptible to dirt getting to the seals and eventually causing the rack to leak which would require a new/rebuilt steering rack.
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Nov 3, 2008 18:27
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What I would suggest you do CornHolio, is jack your car up and wiggle the wheel. Look at these key areas:
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Nov 4, 2008 05:28
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CornHolio posted:I put anti-seize on these threads. Is this a problem? Woah, actually yes, that kind of is a problem. Your kit should've come with self locking nuts; did it not? If it did, you shouldn't need Loctite, if it didn't than maybe that's why they were requesting that you do. In the future I would probably recommend not using antiseize type stuff on suspension components.
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Nov 16, 2008 04:15
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Yeah, I don't believe you need to worry about the bottom one so much as the top two. You should keep in mind that all Loctites are not created equally, and there are versions which create a very minimal bond that is relatively easy to break with a standard ratchet, but not easy to accidently unscrew. The alternate option would be to head to your local hardware store and pick up some self locking nuts, which is what your car would've come with from the factory. You should also make sure that your kit didn't come with them and you just didn't notice, although if the instructions say to use Loctite, they were likely normal bolts.
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Nov 17, 2008 04:43
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predictive posted:The car will be a daily driver, but I'm not opposed to high mileage if it's well cared for, and downtime for maintenance is no problem. I'd prefer four doors (I need to put a car seat in the back from time to time), but that's not a deal breaker. Is it reasonable to get a nice E46 for $10,000 (this doesn't include the $1,500 I'll spend to get the car ready to drive)? Anyone got a line on one near Columbia, SC? To be 100% honest, you're talking to a guy here who had just about the same budget and did purchase an e46. My opinion here is with $10,000 you're only going to be looking at early model, higher mileage versions which are much more prone to failure (see torn subframe) and if you think the subframe problem is sensationalist then feel free to browse e46fanatics and see all the airbag lights, sensors, abs failures, balblablblabla. My wholehearted recommendation would be to point you toward a pristine e36 with that budget. E36s will also have mostly cheaper parts, are easier to work on, less things to break and are pretty much just as good of a car. Look at it this way, with that budget you could have a late production (with the kinks worked out) PERFECT e36, or a heavier, first or second model year, high mileage car with more things to go wrong, and more expensive to replace. Just my two cents.
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Nov 17, 2008 04:52
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CornHolio posted:The shock only has one locking nut on the upper mount hen the mount itself is secured to the car in two places. Err, I fear that I'm not communicating effectively here, as I said, the bottom bolt you can ignore, however the two nuts that hold the shock mount to the chassis are supposed to be locked using some method (such as loctite) or the self locking bolts that they use from the factory. So long as you know which bolts I'm talking about, I suppose periodically checking them would work, or if you ever hear clunking back there. Keep in mind that this is a point that is prone to failure, and they even make reinforcement kits because of that fact. Doctor Grape Ape posted:they went 100k miles without ever backing out, what will make them do it now? I mean honestly, who knows? Maybe it was German engineering overkill to use locking nuts there? I don't know. I'm sure there's a really good chance you could get by without locking those nuts for the duration of your car's life. I'm just telling you what Bilstein and BMW are saying.
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Nov 17, 2008 15:20
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hedgegnome posted:I can get it into each gear, but for R 2nd and 5th you have to shove it all the way forward till it hits the radio. 1st and 3rd, the shifter is straight up and down. And its loose as all hell too. This sounds like a very classic case of having the shifter on backwards, and bad bushings. I'd stake my very good reputation on it. It will be somewhat of a pain to fix this. Exhaust and shielding will need to come off, driveshaft will need to be unbolted and moved out of the way. When he had the tranny off, he undoubtedly had to disconnect the linkage and when he did he probably damaged the bushings further (an inescapeable fate). When he reattatched the shifter, which requires sliding the linkage into the little hole (you can see on the far left of the image below) he did so with the shifter rotated 180 degrees from the correct position. The effect is that the bend in the shifter is pointed the opposite direction and will cause all of the symptoms you've listed. To correct this, you must remove the linkage, slip it out, rotate the shifter 180º, reinsert the linkage and bolt everything back up. Sorry.
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Dec 23, 2008 03:24
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New problem. On my 91 318is it never got up to operating temp. I went to replace the thermostat, so I drained the coolant an noticed what appeared to be a lot of oil mixed in. My first obvious fear was blown headgasket. I checked the oil cap, looked good, checked the dip stick, looked good, checked the oil filter, looked fine. Also the exhaust has never really smoked. I went ahead and installed the thermostat and discovered a coating of this oil all over the inside of the thermostat housing, hoses, radiator, etc. I cleaned up as much as I could and filled the coolant system with all distilled water (not wanting to waste the expensive BMW coolant if I was going to have to replace the headgasket). I ran the car and got it up to temp and looked into the coolant reservoir and didn't notice the coolant flowing at all. I went in the car and turned the heat up and it was blowing totally room temp. To rule out a blockage to the heater core, I flipped it back to "cold," drained the coolant, turned the heat on and more coolant came out (so I know coolant is getting to the heater core). I want to mention that after having ran the car now for a cumulative half hour or so, there seems to be no oil in the water anymore. The belt to the water pump turns freely, the pully has no wabble or give, the pump makes no noises and doesn't seem to leak. Is it possible for a water pump to fail silently like this? Also, if say coolant hasn't been flowing for who knows how long, and has just sat stagnant for maybe years? (I bought the car from someone who stored it for God knows how long, and drove it with a bad potential water pump/thermostat and I haven't driven it really at all,) could that cause this oily build up on everything? I think it's also worth mentioning that when the car had the failed thermostat, the engine always ran cold, never ever reaching operating temp, even with the radiator fan disconnected. It seems to me that a failed water pump would overheat the engine regardless of whether the thermostat is stuck open or not. I would like to emphasise again though that the coolant in the tank on the radiator (when viewed with the cap off) remains totally motionless (however does seem to get quite hot,) even when the car is at operating tempature, and if I feel the hoses, I don't feel anything flowing through them really, and yet the car doesn't ever seem to overheat. WTF I'm pretty sure I'm going to go ahead and replace the water pump, but before I do I'd like some thoughts on it, especially the (what appears to be)oil in the coolant. two_beer_bishes posted:Does anyone have any tips on getting to the shifter bushing that's right on top of the trans? If by "getting to" you mean how to get it off, you'll notice in the realoem picture that there is a pin that is slid though it #3. #3 in the diagram needs to be pried up and rotated so that the pin can be slid out. This is best done by wedging a flat head screw driver and prying it up. It's a tight space, but it can be done. This image http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Shift_Bushings/lift_pic.jpg should give you a good idea on how to do it. If by "getting to" you instead meant how to replace that bushing, well the only way is really to remove the whole shifting arm, and to do that you should just follow this guide http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Shift_Bushings/E36-Shift_Bushings.htm
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Dec 23, 2008 05:14
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Yeah, the needle moved to about 1/4 of the way, the thermostat was bad for sure and the gauge is working for sure. That's taken care of now. The hoses do get quite warm but the thing that has me wondering is, on my e46, if I pop the cap on the reservoir, I can clearly see coolant rushing in from the top and it's quite turbulent. In the 318is though (of a very similar cooling system design) I see nothing at all, occasionally I'll see a few drips come from the hole in the top. I'm 99% sure the coolant in the reservoir doesn't move at all, until it starts boiling that is. Also I can't understand how I'm not getting heat inside the car. I'm saying it doesn't even get slightly warm from the vents (and as I said before, with the coolant drain plug open, when I switch to "heat" coolant comes pouring out, so coolant is getting into the heater core). I guess I'll pull the water pump soon to see if when I spin the pully, whether it spins the impellers (or if it even still has impellers -eek-, they didn't put the plastic ones on the e30's did they?) Edit: In the back of my mind I was really really hoping that "stop leak" stuff looked like brown oily sludge, because that's precisely what the old coolant looked like. The thermostat gasket was leaking too, until I replaced it, so maybe he was trying to hide it. Pimpsolo fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Dec 23, 2008 |
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Dec 23, 2008 05:49
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change my name posted:cheaper to get it turned into a convertible? Is it even possible? Is this a joke? To completely custom fabricate a new top, and to do all the body work necessary to cut off the old top, and make it look presentable. The amount of planning and body work alone is massive. Add to that, that you would need some SERIOUS structural changes to keep any sort of integrity. This would probably include a roll bar, and how would you even go about deciding on where a roll bar would look good on a four door? Two roll bars? or convert it into a coupe? I think you'd be better off buying a brand new 335i Convertible, it would probably still be much cheaper than converting an old 5 series.
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Apr 4, 2009 02:31
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Deceptor101 posted:I am noticing something that I failed to on my test drive: a light clunk from the rear of the car when putting it in gear. Clutch in, push into first, light clunk midway through. It's not a really loud noise, but I talked with a friend of mine who worked a merc that did a similar thing, which he determined was the transmission and driveshaft mounts (or something). Hey, if you find out what this is, let me know. My e46 with similar mileage does the same and I've been too lazy to try to figure it out.
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Jun 8, 2009 15:54
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Brock Landers posted:Yes and yes. Check all the bushings in the suspension carrier. It's probably the rear trailing arm bushings, which are the big ones right in front of the wheels. Ah, actually the big ones in front of the wheels are the subframe bushings. The trailing arm bushings attatch at four points to connect the trailing arms to the subframe like the diagram I've carefully rendered in CAD below. code:
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Jun 25, 2009 12:38
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Jimmy James posted:Sterndotstern posted:The parking lot at work this morning: In the same vane, my work not too long ago. My car (2000 328ci), coworker (86 325e), other coworker (?? Z4 Mcoupe)
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Sep 9, 2009 02:44
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Has anyone here ever attempted to install BMW GT1 and/or Progman in VMware and interface with a 20pin BMW or ODBII connecter? I've been reading fairly heavily about it and might make this my next project. So far I have determined that the hardest/cheapest/most comprehensive way to interface with my e46's computer is by emulating the GT1 hardware in VMware and using an ebay cable. (As opposed to Carsoft, or other seemingly inferior proprietary software) I've found several great resources, such as this tutorial http://dis.robmw.altervista.org/dis/index.htm This forum that requires invites: http://ecubb.bmwecu.org/board/ but has these useful articles: http://www.bmwecu.org/article001/ http://www.bmwecu.org/article002/ and this section of bimmerforums: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=233 I haven't yet even attempted to try any of this yet, because I'm still not entirely clear about exactly what software and cables I want. This subforum is really great for the basics http://ecubb.bmwecu.org/board/viewforum.php?f=19 I have surmised that I want to use GT1/DIS using an Inpa interface, as many have had success in this thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=803202&page=8 There is apparently an archived thread from 318ti.org that got deleted because of  OBD_diagnose_with_round_20pins_-_318ti_org_forum.zip that seemed to have some important information in it. However, I have not obtained this allusive .zip file yet  Granted, I haven't tried really hard yet.All of the information out there is very unorganized, and if/when I do figure this all out, I plan to make a succinct/organized repository for all information in the form of a thread or website. Until then I should mention that the reason I'm looking into all of this is partially because it would be really cool and nerdy to be able to tweak/program anything on my e46 to my heart's desire, but mainly because I was pulling out of my driveway and the dreaded ABS/BRAKE/DSC lights all turned on (like what flublandDrussiavelt mentioned on the last page, not an unheard of BMW problem), a little bit later ALL FOUR BRAKES LOCKED UP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD and would not budge, even with the ignition off, and key out of the car. To disable the brake pump, I had to disconnect the battery and have it towed, where I eventually disconnected the ABS computer in the engine bay, which finally released the brakes. This is not a perminant solution obviously, and I would like to pull some codes. I have already determined I had a funky speed sensor that I have since replaced, which did not fix the problem. I called BMWNA, and they said I need to bring the car to a dealer and pay for them to scan the codes ($120). They have no interest in investigating this potentially dangerous symptom of ALL FOUR BRAKES LOCKING UP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. Someone on this forum suggested I bring it to a local Porsche shop that specializes in these sorts of failures, and they said my ABS computer is responsive, gives codes, and likely is not the culprit. From there they wanted more money to try throwing new parts at it (understandably), but weren't sure either. I guess eventually I'll take it to the dealer and get raped, or maybe the Porsche shop again, but first I'd like to try my hand at diagnosing it myself. SA:AI, car nerds on a computer nerd forum, someone else has got to be as interested in this as I am: Pimpsolo fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Nov 11, 2009 04:54
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Of course, and with SA's rules, obviously there would be no sharing of isoz or anything of that sort. A discussion of BMW programming software is surely warranted though. I am aware you can't "program" modules using DIS, however I understand that you can program them with Progman, as I mentioned. Also, consider that the main feature I am interested in is the actual diagnosis side (if I didn't make that clear in the above post) and would absolutly consider the Carsoft option if it's clear that it will provide the level of services I need. I hate how I own a car that I can't diagnose and fix myself, and will likely become obsolete some day, when there's no reason it should. For all intents and purposes it is impossible to fix my e46's problem without the dealer, or heavily equipped independent shop. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember reading that it is impossible to reset the SRS light in late model e30s becasue BMW no longer supports interfacing with a car that old, and there's no independant options available. I hate the thought that without independent tinkerers, it will literally be impossible to keep e46s (or any modern cars, GT-Rs? etc. etc.) on the road. I want to be able to fix my own car.
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Nov 11, 2009 05:57
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SlapActionJackson posted:Wouldn't be easier (and not terribly expensive) to just buy the BMW pack from AutoEnginuity? It looks pretty comprehensive from their list of modules they claim the ability to talk to. Like I said, I'm still open to considering good aftermarket solutions, however I still want to know and understand the advantages and disadvantages of each. Presumably there wouldn't be a massive number of people going though the complicated process of emulating the factory BMW setup if there wasn't some clear advantage over Carsoft or AutoEnginuity. peterjmatt posted:Progman is still just a program for uploading software, not a utility to write code. And Progman is already outdated. peterjmatt posted:I agree that it's frustrating that we can't fix every problem on a car with a wrench and a machine shop anymore, but it's an inevitable side-effect of the growing complexity in car equipment. peterjmatt posted:And there's a special tool for wiping the e30 airbag light, and I'm sure there are alternative ways to clear it short of sourcing a 20 year old tool. You seem to have a fairly good grasp on the BMW computer tools, why are people emulating them? Just for posterity? I wouldn't rule it out, but it seems extremely functional. Am I wrong in my belief that SSS allows you to change factory settings like DRL, and HVAC settings and such? Am I mistaken in my belief that Carsoft and/or AutoEnginuity do not perform those functions? Pimpsolo fucked around with this message at 09:36 on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Nov 11, 2009 09:34
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peterjmatt posted:Sorry, the SSS is simply the name of the computer that runs the Progman application. There are no field provisions to actually write code. I don't think you realize just how difficult that would be. I don't have any experience with Carsoft, but I've been told that it does allow car-key memory changes (personalization settings). These changes are very minor, such as turning on day time running lights or deactivating one-touch unlocking. Ehh, I'm afraid you're not reading my posts very carefully, as I have addressed just about everything you said. I am talking about emulating the SSS hardware which is capable of running software that can alter settings and read codes. If Carsoft is able to define personalization settings for things like SRS (which I mentioned myself), you're telling me emulated GT1 is not able to? Fair, however this is contrary to the reading I've been doing. You take it that I want to upload my own homebrew ECU firmware or something? If Carsoft lets me diagnose errors, and tweak personalization settings and GT1 does not, then I think I've found my solution. However I understand that GT1 is significantly more comprehensive than Carsoft and this is why people work so hard to emulate it. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I may very well be wrong on this point. If you read above, you would see that my DSC unit has not actually failed, there is a confounding variable that is resulting in the ABS module sending the signal to lock all the brakes. When ABS/DSC modules fail, they typically go into a fail-safe mode like flublandDrussiavelt's where they just no longer function, and you get a ton of lights on in your dash. In this instance, the ABS module is still coherently readable to those with a device that is capable of doing so (the Porsche shop). Particularly, it was announcing that one of the wheel speed sensors was bad (replaced, did not fix). For this particular task, it would be wonderful if I could read the codes now that the sensor is replaced, however I would be required to bring it to the Porsche shop (who admitted the dealer has a better reader) or the monopoly of the dealer at who knows what cost. I am aware of exactly what the Peake airbag reset tools are, however I am not aware of one that works for the e30. If you are, can you send me a link? You're still missing the point that I don't particularly care about it anyway, I was only using it as an example to illustrate the potential implications of cars whose computer systems are no longer supported. Fortunately the SRS light has the workaround of pulling the bulb, but e46s in 25 years will not have this luxury for things like ABS etc. I maintain my car as if it will last as long as my 325e. edit: I found this which seems to work for e30s, however the second post in this thread said quote:In '90 and some in '91, BMW didn't bother to route the SRS reset circuit to the diagnostic port in the engine bay. If your car's SRS reset circuit does go to the diagnostic port, then it's a simple reset at the dealer, if not, you need to undo the knee bolster, and expose the SRS computer, and hookup the dealer computer to its connector to reset it. So you'll need to go to the dealer to reset it, I don't believe it's a simple jumpering of pins to reset (as is the SI board), it's more than that. Pimpsolo fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Nov 11, 2009 16:55
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crutt posted:Well I went and checked out the 328i- Found only a few issues: All 3 series power steering leaks, the most important part is from where? If it's from the reservoir, or reservoir hose, then you have a normally functioning BMW, if it's from the rack, it's a bit of a pain and expense to replace. You know, I know everyone harps on maintenance records but honestly, look at the car. Look at the items that require maintenance at that age like bushings and coolant system etc. How nice is the interior kept up? I think those are as (if not more) important indicators as physical pieces of paper. If they're up to par, I expect they wouldn't skimp on oil changes etc. The car wouldn't make it to 160k miles if it wasn't maintained most of it's life. That's my two cents. Dings, eh what are you going to do?
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Jan 3, 2010 05:47
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Xy Hapu posted:...but recently I've noticed that after the car's warmed up, there's a noticeable thud when switching between Park/Neutral/Drive, and the car jerks a bit. The first thing I would explore would be the tranny mounts, guibo, trailing arm bushings, and possibly subframe bushings (in that order) in addition to new tranny fluid. These are all relatively cheap and easy to replace (save for subframe bushings, which are conviently least likely the culprit in my opinion), and also very common failure points on e36s with your mileage. Does this sound familiar? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZf619hm-bc Edit: I think it's worth mentioning that it probably is tranny related though, based on your description, however it's free to inspect what I reccomended above, and I think it would be prudent to explore those as possible causes/contributing exacerbating issues. Pimpsolo fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jul 21, 2010 |
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Jul 21, 2010 16:11
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MAF may literally be the easiest thing you can replace on a car? It's at least up there with wiper blades. I'm not going to lie to you, it will require the use a of a flathead screw driver, and some level of competency with it, but other than that you should be alright. Basically what you want to do is open the hood, locate the MAF, replace the MAF, then close the hood. One tip though, for my 2000 BMW 328Ci, I discovered that the MAF used on it is EXACTLY the same as those used on Hyundai Sonatas of a similar vintage. For some reason, every single parts site charged about double for the BMW p/n, which I must emphasize is identical in every single way. I bought the Hyundai one and it has worked perfectly. Beware though that there are Chinese knockoff MAFs that are complete poo poo. So bad in fact, it would probably just be better to run your car unplugged than have a Chinese knockoff MAF installed. Finally I should mention to you that, while I could be wrong here, I am pretty sure that YOU have the wrong part number. From what I can tell, the p/n you have refers to the 318i, or 316i. The 320i is supposed to come with a BMW P/N: 13621432356 which, lucky for your friend of yours, is the same part number as mine, which is swappable with the vastly cheaper (but exactly identical) Hyundai unit. (Hyundai p/n 28164-37100). You should be able to find that OEM for under $200 US. Good luck.
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Jul 26, 2010 13:00
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Pilsner posted:Funny stuff. I just read your post and said to myself "ahhh, all these goons are exaggerating, the BMW coolant system isn't so bad".  If I'm totally honest, I'm not exactly sure I will be able to figure out how to put this thing back together. Then again, I plan to delete all this vacuum/coolant crap mod as per this thread. so hopfully I can figure it out? v vI really have little idea what I'm doing, I'm just unbolting things and tossing them aside. Oh god. Expect an update in like a month when I can't figure it out.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. All that for fuckin this:  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Maybe this will solve my  engine running horribly problem but probably not with my luck.
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Nov 16, 2010 03:44
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Saga posted:Could that be the sound of a very hosed camchain (or a camchain sprocket) smacking into the cases? To be honest, this was my first inclination, however when I went to pull the timing chain cover, I noticed the vacuum line from the valve cover that goes to under the intake manifold to that crazy mess was totally cracked, and I noticed all the lines were, so I figured I'd try that first, but I don't have high hopes. The thing that gets me is the car was idling perfect at a stop light, and then it INSTANTLY started making that noise, and running that way. If the camchain sprocket was rounded, wouldn't it happen more gradually, likewise for a stretched chain? Others have suggested a skipped tooth, however it was my understanding that the car would not run if that were the case. If replacing the vacuum lines don't correct the problem (which I don't expect it to), I'll be pulling the valve cover and timing chain cover to see. I've also heard this noise from m42s with a bad oil pump, if anyone recalls, I did hit a curb and bashed my pan in. When I replaced the pan, I inspected the pump and the bolts were tight and the pickup looked undamaged. The car ran fine for months after that. Also, the oil pressure light is off, so I've basically ruled that out and am leaning toward timing issue, but hoping vacuum issue. I'm open to all ideas though.
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Nov 17, 2010 03:49
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manchego posted:For example, this listing seems like a good deal cause of decent mileage and a pretty meticulous owner. However, I think I remember reading in this thread that $5000 seems like a steep price. I might have to go against the grain here and say e30s are old at this point, and I don't care how maintained they are and how many records there are, things will break at any moment. If you look back at the 1991 318is I bought a year or so ago, owned by a mechanic, stack of records, looks showroom, nothing obvious in the test drive. Within 6 months it REQUIRED new shocks, new thermostat, new axle boots, new power steering boots, and now vacuum system overhaul, and probably new timing chain and associated parts. I honestly don't think this is a fluke, nor am I complaining. I'm saying that firstly, I remember someone once posted "who cares about a stack of records on e30s" somewhere in this thread, and I couldn't agree more. On a 20 to 26 year old car it's a crapshoot no matter how many records they have except for rare circumstances like someone that just photo documented replacing every wear part on the car within the past year. Because honestly, I don't care how many wiper blades the car had, or when the valve cover gasket was last replaced. If the car is running right now, and there's nothing obviously wrong and it costs less than $2500, that's all anyone can ask for. All you can do then just pray non expensive stuff breaks far enough apart that you have time and money to replace them. In short, if given the choice between two e30s that both visually appear cared for, one has a stack of records, and the other doesn't, I wouldn't have the slightest preference for ether car (unless I planned to sell it to people that care about records, which is the only good thing about having records on an e30 in my opinion). When (if) I ever sell my 84 325e, I wont even have so much as one receipt to prove the car ever had a single oil change in 26 years. Yet they will be buying an e30 in better mechanical shape than any e30 I've ever seen. That e30 you linked is nothing special other than the fact that I really dig the color (but I'm biased). I wouldn't pay a dime more than $3k for it (if that), and I'd take that stack of records, put them in a box, and only bring them out the next time a sucker is willing to come along to pay $2000 more for a stack of papers that mean almost nothing. So now you're in a situation where you have $7000 to spend on an e30 or e36. They're both almost guaranteed to have some problem within 6 months of buying them, and they'll both cost roughly the same to fix. Now you have to decide, "do I want the (arguably cooler looking) 20+ year old ratty e30, or a 10-15 year old smooth, quiet, semi-modern, semi-luxurious, faster, safer e36. It's honestly not an easy decision, but $7k is more than enough to get a nice e36, and have reserve cash for repairs. You'll be able to find e36s all day long in good condition, but almost never find an e30 without some combination of worn interior, paint blemishes, rust, worn bushings all over, greasy engine bay. And if you do, you'll be overpaying so much for it. Saga posted:It's a two minute job, but IIRC he said he'd replaced the tensioner. That's correct, I did replace it which had no effect. I do indeed plan to inspect the timing chain, sprockets, and rails within the next week or to (busy as the end of the semester approaches). What I really fear (but am really leaning toward now) is something like this: http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594&highlight=upper+oil+pan+bolts I'm wondering if when I whacked my lower oil pan, if that may have cause the upper pan's gasket to shift. Which, when I put it like that, I'm really starting to suspect. Can anyone answer if an upper oil pan gasket shift would not throw an oil pressure light, but would cause it to sound like like it does?
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Nov 19, 2010 18:04
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