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Ultimate Mango posted:I'd be surprised if those if us with the newfangled LED clusters will have it so easy... I don't think the LED clusters will need servicing. LEDs don't burn out. At least, not for a long, LONG time. They are sealed anyway, at least on my E39. As for the keyfob, I'm surprised BMW doesn't disable the keyfob when the car is running. That seems like a glaring error and you might want to bring it up with the dealer. My second key is useless once I've started the car.
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Apr 8, 2008 20:14
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Adnuo posted:At this point I'm going with the explination of my well-worn tires are just spinning freely, with so little grip that I didn't get an associated squeal or smoke. I doubt it. The E46 has DSC which will prevent wheelspin at all costs when active (which is the default). It does this by cutting power (electronic throttle control) and braking the wheels. When you say your clutch is "slipping" are the RPMs shooting up really high but the car isn't going forward? Or when you drop the clutch does the car just kinda sit there and slowly move forward but the RPMs stay in a reasonable range? If it's the former, you're clutch is slipping. If it's the latter, that's DSC throttle control doing it's thing. When I had my E46, you could side-step the clutch all day long but the car just kinda sat there and didn't lurch forward as you'd expect. My E39 does something similar and I just had the clutch replaced. Turn DSC off completely (hold the DSC button until both the orange triangle AND the orange "BRAKE" light are on), rev to 4000 RPM and drop the clutch. She should catch and the car should leave a nice burnout (peg-leg because of the open diff). EDIT: Don't make a habit of dropping the clutch like that. It's for sure not good for the car. 
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Apr 19, 2008 02:52
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AriocTheVagrant posted:
Nice car and one of my favorite colors. I think I recognize that parking lot, did you get it at Auto Advantage in Manassas? As far as the wheel refinishing, I don't know about any place local to the DC area, but https://www.wheelcollision.com is very well recommended in the BMW circles. They offer exchange prices on refinished wheels and yours are $235 each if you trade in your old wheels. They will also refinish wheels but that looks to be just as much in your case.
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Apr 21, 2008 22:06
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miklm posted:So basically it covers everything that never breaks, while specifically exempting all the things that wear out. Absolutely worthless, but a good reason to buy a car from a private seller, preferably a BMW CCA member with extensive documentation on the car since new. I'd take that over a dealership "CPO" car any day. Hey now! My CPO covered my ticking hydraulic lifters (no more TICK TICK TICK!), my A/C compressor that was on the way out, a shorted LED tail light cluster, my oil separator valve, and my secondary EGR system. The lifters, EGR, and oil separator are all known trouble spots on the M54 engine. All the repairs totaled ~$5,000 so far.
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May 5, 2008 19:02
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:I think this is the case too. The stock E36 rear rotors come new at 10mm thick, but the minimum thickness is 8.4mm. You wouldn't be able to machine them and keep them within tolerance. Right. The pads and rotors are designed to wear together and if the rotors are too thin, you risk warping them as well as having to deal with increased pedal travel.
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May 6, 2008 14:12
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andrzejpw posted:Also, is the automatic that bad? The auto isn't really bad... to drive. But they have a reputation for making GBS threads themselves depending on which E46 model it's mated to. Mostly due to the fact BMW considers fluid and filter "lifetime" and doesn't do regular changes of either.
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Jul 7, 2008 14:58
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CornHolio posted:Is... is the driver oriented cockpit making a comeback? I sure hope that's what I'm seeing here.
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Jul 10, 2008 14:08
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groverat posted:Please tell me if I'm an idiot for thinking a 5 or 7 series will be a reliable cruiser from 50k to 100k+ (or an idiot for even asking, I seriously do not know). I daily drive a 2003 530i and it's never left me stranded. It HAS had it share of problems, however. 50-100k is about the time the following occurs: - One part or another of the cooling system takes a poo poo. Usually the water pump, but the expansion tanks are also a problem. When one part starts to leak, it's best to replace EVERYTHING (hoses, WP, radiator, expansion tank, t-stat, belts, fan clutch) for about $500-600 in parts and a weekend's labor. The 540i is MUCH more prone to this with the 530i usually making it to 100k without issue. For what it's worth, mine is at 97k and there are no leaks in my cooling system and no play in my waterpump bearing. YMMV. - The secondary air pump gives up and throws a "check engine" light. Not a huge issue, but about $270 in parts and a couple hours work. Mine was replaced under CPO warranty, no charge. - The automatic transmissions usually make it to 100k+, but failures at 80k aren't out of the ordinary. Again, a bigger issue on the 540i. - The suspension parts are really worn by 60-70k, especially on Sports Package cars (like mine). The 5-series uses a multi-link rear suspension so there are LOTS of ball joints and bushings to wear out. Easiest thing is to replace all the parts at once instead of piece-mail. My rear-upper control arm ball joints had torn and leaked all their grease by 78k miles. Shocks are usually toast by this point too. I re-did my entire suspension front and rear (shocks, all new control arms and bushings, and new upper strut bearings) for about $1000 in parts in one weekend with a helper. TOTALLY transformed the car and well worth it. - Brakes and brake fluid due for a change. Fluid is especially important because the calipers are sensitive to moisture and will rust and seize up. - Front wheel bearings on cars that are driven on rough roads. $200 in parts and an afternoon - a day in (your) labor. Do them at the same time as the front suspension and the work overlaps nicely. Mine are fine, but my car was driven on smooth roads most of it's life. - Cat converters on the 540i cars. You really want to find out if this has been done because they are $2000 and there are TWO! 525i and 530i cars have had no issues with their cats. - Pixels in the dash and radio displays like to go out. The cluster is about $600 plus re-programming by the dealer and the radio display is another $500 or so. Dealers have been known to "goodwill" the parts even if the car isn't under warranty. Worth a shot I guess. Mine show no signs of this problem. - Sports Package cars eat tires. The rears will be shot after 10-15k or less sometimes. It's normal so deal with it or look for a car without the SP. I know this sounds like a nightmare, but it's not that bad. Mine has never stranded me and I'm probably a little picky about my cars and their state of repair (I like things PERFECT or darn close). The cars cost anywhere from $35,000 to $60,000 when new so parts are priced accordingly. These cars are basically large sports cars and wear out parts faster. Engines run hotter, the suspension has to make the car corner like it's on rails AND give a good ride, and they have a high "gadget content" (ie. more stuff to break). I'd suggest finding a CPO car, but the last E39 rolled off the line in June 2003 so even if you did fine a car, it's CPO would be up around June 2009 (when mine is up!). Not much time, but maybe still worth a little price premium. Look for SERVICE RECORDS for any car you're considering! If you can find out if any of the common problems are taken care of, even better! A well maintained car is worth the extra cash and piece of mind and will save you money in the long run. Use the fact that the cooling system needs an overhaul to lower the price. Budget about $2000 after purchase for repairs to avoid "surprises". At the end of the day, they are fantastic cars and there is a reason why Consumer Reports and Car and Driver called them the best sedan ever. They have a smooth ride, handle fantastically, provide TONS of feedback, look great, have just the right amount of luxury, and wrap it up in an unassuming, driver-oriented package.
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Aug 24, 2008 03:08
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groverat posted:Are 3s less needy? Eh. A little bit. I had a 2001 330i as well. Here are the differences/similarities: - 6 cyl. Engines are the same, so the same problems with the cooling systems apply. I believe they use electric fans instead of belt driven fans so you won't be replacing the fan clutch, but all the other parts are the same and break the same way at the same time. - Automatics are even bigger pieces of poo poo (so I've read) and most will fail soon after 100k. Stories of not going in reverse or not coming out of 2nd are fairly common. I avoid the whole mess by driving stick. If you get any BMW, I suggest the same. - Suspension is still worn (esp. on Sports Package cars) by 60-70k, but there are fewer parts and they are cheaper/easier to replace. - Brakes are the same. Don't neglect the fluid. - No dash/radio pixel issues that I've ever heard of. - Tire situation is much better, even on the Sports Package cars. I had a set last me 30,000 miles before I sold the car and there was still ~30% of the tread left. - A very few of the E46 3-series cars have an issue where the rear subframe tears away from the car. You can recognize the problem by odd, random clunking sounds coming from the back when you go over bumps. It's expensive to fix but it's rare and people in online forums like to exaggerate how widespread it is. Honestly, I should have kept the 330i I had. The 5 isn't much bigger on the inside, it just has more presence on the road and is a (slightly) better highway car. The 5 feels so planted at 120MPH that it's boring coming back down to 70. The 3 was fine at 120, but the 5 felt like it could do much more whereas the 3 was starting to a feel a tiny bit "twitchy". But it's not like we Americans drive at much more than 80, so it really doesn't matter. Handling-wise, my 530i Sport is 95% of the handling of my 330i Sport. Seriously. It's amazing that a car that big and heavy can corner like it does. I'd say the 5 has even MORE road feel and feedback from the steering wheel the 3 did. They are both fantastic cars, but like I said, if I had to choose now, I'd pick the 3 again.
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Aug 24, 2008 14:49
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case posted:Just completed on a '89 325iS. Timing belt, suspension bushings, engine mounts, airmass meter and gear selector linkage are all being replaced. I did see on a previous page a suggesstion of a $300 cooling refresh, what would this entail? Replace the waterpump, radiator, and hoses since you need to take them out to get access to the timing belt.
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Aug 25, 2008 15:24
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CornHolio posted:The right one has some dual-motion swing or something. Its hard to explain, I wish I could find a youtube video. Its mesmerizing. The E39 does this as well. It has a dual point pivot that allows the arm to extend and wipe more of the windshield. The Top Gear e39 M5 video with Tiff Needell shows it pretty well. I wouldn't say it's mesmerizing, but it's neat that they thought of it.
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Aug 25, 2008 15:37
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mungtor posted:That's awesome to quote since that's exactly what people were saying about BMWs 10+ years ago too. The bitching over the "lack of purity" in the E36 M3 was incessant and people were complaining about things like computers and cruise control. Yup. I have "The Complete Roundel" on CD which has every issue of Roundel since it began until about 1998. It's funny to read the reviews of the E21/E30/E36 cars. Every single one talks about a dilution/lack of feeling/"too much luxury"/"it's too big" compared to the previous generation. Complaining about this type of thing is becoming another "BMW-ism" for sure. The fact is, the Yuppies that bought the 2002 grew up and the cars grew with them.
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Aug 28, 2008 21:10
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CornHolio posted:Where does one get this? Is it available through the CCA? It used to be available from Bentley, but it went "out of print" years ago. They pop up on Ebay every now and then and that's where I got mine. It's 7 or 8 CDs that use a lovely half web, half application interface and it seems to only work properly with Netscape Communicator 4. I setup a Windows 98 VM to look at it. It's cool because it's high-res scans of the entire magazine plus searchable article text.
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Aug 29, 2008 15:40
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CornHolio posted:To do the upper/lower hose and expansion tank (which I also had) the labor balloons to over $700. Why is that? I thought those were pretty easy to do once you're in there. The procedure for replacing the expansion tank and hoses goes something like: 1.) Undo all hose clamps 2.) Remove hoses 3.) Undo bolts for expansion tank and remove 4.) Installation is reverse of removal It will take at most 20 minutes. Unless they are including parts in that extra cost, tell them you'll pay for at most 1 hour additional labor. The issue is, since they are pulling your waterpump and t-stat, they will have to flush/refill your cooling system. If you then replace the hoses and tank, you will have to pay for more coolant and refill again.
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Aug 29, 2008 17:39
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case posted:gently caress. My Speedo decided to break, I've been told to check the #10 fuse and the speed sensor (and wiring) from the diff. Anything else might cause this? All other clocks are working fine, E30 325iS Sounds like it could be an SI board failure. When the batteries that keep the Service Interval lights working starts to leak out onto the circuit board, the gauges stop working. Sometimes it's all of them, sometimes just one or two. It's a common failure. If the fuse and wiring check out OK, it's probably the SI board. You can SOMETIMES clean up the board and solder on new batteries, but usually the battery acid has etched the board and unless you're good at circuit board repair, buying a new board is the only option. Thankfully, they aren't too pricey. I got one for my E28 on eBay for around $120.
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Sep 8, 2008 12:51
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maxallen posted:No, sounds like the shadowline trim was only the ZHP. I've got stock chrome window trim and kidneys. I think but I'm not sure that the chrome slats are only chrome on the edges, not inside, which is why I think one of the ebay "Full chrome" ones would be too showy. Yup. The E46 330i and Ci all got chrome trim. The 325i/Ci had black. A popular mod is to order 325i "shadowline" trim pieces and swap them.
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Sep 17, 2008 02:17
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Pissingintowind posted:So it's time for a new clutch for me. What else should I replace at the same time, and how much should I expect labor to cost at a reputable shop? Well, since the gearbox has to come out, maybe replace all the transmission seals. Also, the rear main seal will be right there when you pull the trans so it can't hurt to change that. How many miles/how old is the car?
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Sep 19, 2008 20:32
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Stefan Prodan posted:ENGINE FAILSAFE PROG Sounds like it could be a cam sensor. The car has two and can run OK with one. Dealership will be able to pinpoint it with their diagnostic scanner. If it is the cam sensor, the part isn't terribly expensive (less than $100 IIRC) and they are easy to install.
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Sep 23, 2008 18:43
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JohnnyDangerously posted:Want's an M3 The M3 certainly would be a good daily driver/track use combo. The E36 generation is probably the least maintenance intensive M3 in the US because it uses fewer specialized Motorsport parts. The S50/52 engines also don't demand as much in maintenance as the earlier S14 and later S54 engines (no valves to adjust). That doesn't mean you can neglect it, as neglecting any BMW will lead to headaches later on. That leads into the next point. BMW problems and important maintenance issues are very well documented among enthusiasts and the lifespan of various parts on each model is pretty well known. Example: the M50/52 motors had poo poo cooling systems. Expect the water pumps to fail around 60,000 miles and the rest of the cooling system to die at about 100,000. Suspension parts? 50,000-100,000 miles depending on the car. Basically if you do a Google search for "E36 M3 common problems", you'll find what you need to know. In general, after about 175,000 miles, you should feel MORE comfortable buying a BMW because by that point, most things that you might not have replaced earlier will have totally failed and been replaced already. Things are a little more dicey in the 100k-175k range because things might be badly worn, but the owner might not want to replace it until it fails completely. So what does this mean for you? If you're not savvy enough to thoroughly look over the car by yourself, when you find a car you like, get a pre-purchase inspection! It will cost you $100-200 and is money well spent. If it comes up clean, great! If not, you can walk away OR use the list of "to-dos" to talk the owner down in price. Not doing this, especially on an M car, is like flushing money down the drain. You also want service records, preferably since the car was new. The more the better. You're looking for regular oil changes, brake fluid flushes, coolant flushes, suspension parts replacement and a general sense that the vehicle was cared for. Evidence of common failure items being replaced is important as well. That being said, on an E36, pay attention to the following: - Cooling system: The cooling system should have been overhauled to some degree by 100,000 miles. Water pumps and thermostat housing take a poo poo, as do the radiator necks. This will cook the engine unless you pull over IMMEDIATELY and shut the car off. - Rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs): wear out and cause sloppy rear handling and mysterious clunks from the back. - Rear upper shock mounts: similar to the above - Shocks on the M cars are usually toast at 50,000 miles intervals. - Play in any ball joints - Transmission mounts, motor mounts, diff mounts - Window regulators/motors - Final stage resistor (look for HVAC controls that don't work properly) If you can get documented evidence that the trouble spots were taken care of (eg: cooling system replaced in the last 10,000 miles) then you're all set. DON'T take the owner's word for it. That's just a quick overview. I'm sure others will have more advice. Good luck with the search!
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Sep 24, 2008 16:01
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Sterndotstern posted:$25k than an M5. A $25k M5 will not be a $25k M5 after you replace everything that needs replacing. You need DEEP pockets to own an M5. The 330i ZHP is an excellent choice.
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Sep 29, 2008 17:11
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Filthee Fingas posted:I been looking and I'm liking the 330Ci model..is there any difference between that model and the 330i? Also, I found this car for sale in Vancouver: The difference is one is a coupe and one is a sedan.  The ZHP is a package that adds Alcantra seats (or optional leather) and Alcantra steering wheel, more aggressive cam, higher redline, a 3.07 (instead of 2.93) rear end, shadowline trim, different wheels, and an "M-sport" suspension that sits somewhere between the "normal" ZCP Sports Package and an M3's suspension. Probably a few other things I'm forgetting, but those are the big ones. It's regarded as one of the best examples of an E46 available and you can get the package in the 330i or 330Ci. No idea about Canadian prices on cars, but it looks like it's in good shape and was well cared for. Ask to see all service records and get a BMW dealer to check it out for you. The seller should agree if he's not trying to hide anything. Cost you about $150 (in the US, at least) and it's worth it.
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Sep 29, 2008 18:28
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Rakekniven posted:M50/M52 cooling issues Parts should be no more than $500 and figure a Saturday to put it all in. No special tools other than a 32mm wrench for the fan nut. Oh and make sure to put a new fan clutch in while you're at it.
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Oct 1, 2008 12:54
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ynotony posted:Figure out what caused the problem before you throw parts at it. Mine did the same thing but it was because the fan was an inch closer to the shroud/radiator than it should have been. It destroyed everything. This ended up being because of dead motor mounts and everything was sliding forward under braking. Trust me. You want to replace everything in the cooling system. Too many people have replaced just what broke only to find a few months later that something else breaks. These cooling systems are a very well known failure point and people don't even bother trusting old parts anymore.
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Oct 2, 2008 16:05
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CornHolio posted:This man is correct. I replaced my water pump and left my radiatior alone, and lo, three loving weeks later, I needed a new radiator. The fan clutch is less of a deal because if it fails, you end up with an engine that runs hotter than normal, rather than one that pukes all the coolant and overheats. It still isn't great, it's just not catastrophic. You can check your fan clutch by trying to turn it with the engine off. Give it a good push and see if it "freewheels". If it does, replace it. If it has enough resistance to stop itself from turning pretty quickly, it's fine. It just makes sense to replace it when you service the cooling system because it has to come apart anyway so why duplicate labor.
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Oct 2, 2008 17:29
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Chriskory posted:I just got a BMW, seems like the place to post it. A 1991 318is I picked up for a song. The power steering leaks, the cloth seats are ripped up, and it needs a new front bumper (what should I pay for one at a jy?). I ordered one of those control arm, bushing and tie rod ebay sets, ready to install when it gets here next week. Oh and the blower only works on speed 2, and the power window fuse has blown twice, and the odometer is broken. Old cars just have a way of starting run on sentences. Hello 318iS buddy! I just picked one of these up myself and they're fantastic cars. Where is the power steering leaking from? The rack or the reservoir? If it's the rack, you'll probably need another rack. You can also loop the hoses and disable the assist. Some people like no power steering, some don't. Reservoir leaks usually can be fixed with new hoses and clamps or safely ignored. EVERY BMW I've ever owned has leaked a little fluid from the hoses. Even after they've been fixed by the dealer. Those control arm kits from FCP Groton aren't the best parts out there, but their probably better than the worn ones that came on the car. They won't last as long as real OEM parts, but they are cheaper. The blower sounds like it might be the resistor pack or the contacts are dirty on the switch. You can disassemble the dash, change the resistor, clean the switch, and clean the blower to see if that helps. Odometer gears are a known problem on old BMWs. They get brittle and crack, but can be replaced with new ones from https://www.odometergears.com Not sure about the window issues, but it could be a bad/slow motor or a motor encountering too much resistance and blowing the fuse. Also, you should be able to get a set of vinyl sport seats for $200-300 if you're tired of looking at the ratty cloth. Enjoy your purchase!
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Oct 3, 2008 12:54
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Chriskory posted:I was thinking of a Z3 or E36 rack swap, is that any harder then putting the standard one back in? Also, do people have bad experiences with FCP groton quality? What are the best parts. The interior needs a lot actually, cracked dash of course the door cards are cloth and even the back seats are a little ripped. Might it just be easier to find a non running E30 parts car for all this stuff? The E36 rack swap isn't much harder than a normal replacement. There is some minor fabrication (cutting mostly) to make it work. Here is a great writeup: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=66247 You should probably join that forum as well as https://www.m42club.com Lots of good E30 318i info between the two. There are people who are selling complete interiors, but if you can find a parts car with a decent interior for cheap, it's probably your best bet. As far as FCP Groton, they are well respected on the Volvo boards and most owners are happy with the parts they get. BMW people aren't as much. I ordered some stuff from them and it really is sub-OEM quality for the most part. For some parts it doesn't matter as much, but BMWs put a lot of demands on control arms and the like. I bought a complete front-end refresh kit for my E28 and installed it as per BMW-specs. Within 5000 miles, the upper control arms bushings were beginning to wear (cracked and tearing) and the car was shimmying again. Replaced with factory OEM parts (for twice the cost), and it was trouble free for the next 10,000 until I sold it. I followed up with the new owner a year later and he reported no issues with the car. People in bimmerforums and the like report similar experiences. I deal with a guy named Steve Haygood (https://www.stevehaygood.com) and he can get just about every OEM BMW part for less than Pelican can. The ones that aren't cheaper are close in price. He's also fast and dependable. I just bought all new cooling and vacuum hoses (there are ALOT of them) plus a waterpump and thermostat from him for $213 shipped. Pelican was $268 + shipping. The dealer wanted $253 for the hoses alone.
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Oct 3, 2008 17:01
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Sterndotstern posted:As I understand it, until you cross some threshold of failure, the O2 sensors will work. As they degrade, they allow the engine to run rich, which results in progressively crappier performance and mileage. So you're fine to let them ride, as far as I know. Pretty much, yeah. Also, the O2 sensor isn't the only way an engine adjusts mixture, it's more of a fine-tuning. When the ECU sees a sensor's values go too far out of spec, that's when it will throw a CEL and, as long as it isn't another bad part causing the problem, that's when you replace the sensor. The post-cat sensors should take a LONG time to go bad because your catalytic converter is cleaning the exhaust. EDIT: More info. When an O2 sensor goes bad, it gets "slow". An functioning O2 sensor will quickly switch between seeing a lean condition and seeing a rich condition many times a second. As it ages, its ability to switch quickly diminishes. ECUs can see this and trigger a CEL when the switching gets too slow to be effective. Brock Landers fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Oct 9, 2008 |
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Oct 9, 2008 20:06
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wwb posted:I have a 2002 530 w/ 96k miles on it. It has been very well cared for, but the 100k wear items are starting to worry me. Took it into the shop for an oil change, and I asked them to look at the cooling system to see if it was getting ready to explode on me. The response was that they couldn't tell, but I should just replace it. Anyhow, does $1700 sound right for a full cooling system replacement on an e39 530? Parts cost will be about $500-600. So you could spend $1100 on tools and end up with a kickass toolset and be able to do just about any other maintenance, or give that money to the dealer. $1700 is about what my buddy was charged at a BMW dealer to replace all the cooling system parts. Make sure they do ALL of them. Waterpump, thermostat, thermostat housing, upper and lower hoses, radiator, expansion tank, fan clutch, tensioner pulley, and the serpentine belt.
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Oct 14, 2008 16:53
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Stefan Prodan posted:This might be a really stupid question, but I don't get the climate control on my 5-series (2002). There's the auto setting, which normally is pretty self-explanatory, but there's also the temperature setting on the top vents. Do those work independently or together? Like do I need to worry about changing the temp setting from cool to heat every time it gets cold or warm or whatever or can I just set the temp on the auto to 72 or something and not worry about it? Also, despite the two temperature settings for passenger and driver, I've never seen a difference in the air coming out from either side. Does it only affect the air going at your feet or something? The adjustment dial on the vent is to let you setup the stratified airflow. BMW did lots of research on cabin comfort back in the early 80's and determined that for optimal comfort and to reduce driver fatigue, you should set the cabin temperature to about 72 degrees and direct cooler air towards the driver's face. Naturally, not everyone likes cold air blowing at them, so they put in the option for you to adjust it. The auto climate control will try to keep the overall temperature at what you set it to, and you can determine what type of air blows at your face. As for the driver/passenger settings, I've found that BMW has the best driver/passenger settings because it works so invisibly. Yes, it works mostly with the air at your feet. You won't be able to immediately feel a difference in the air that comes out, but both passengers will be comfortable and be reasonably close to their set temperatures. When you get to 100,000 miles, you should think about replacing the rest of the cooling system. I have 98,000 miles on my original cooling system, but that's just because it's still under CPO warranty and if it dies before 100k, I'll have BMW foot the replacement bill. I'm selling the car, but if I were keeping it, all of that lovely cooling system would be replaced at 100k.
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Oct 21, 2008 15:28
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TractionControl posted:I think something got tangled in the SRS wires though, because something went "plunk" and now my SRS lights are blinking so I will have to take the whole thing apart again to find out what is going on there. Just disconnect all the airbag poo poo. Use it as an excuse to get a Mtech I or II steering wheel. You'll have to take apart the check panel and remove the TWO SRS lights (one is hidden and soldered in place). Or get a check panel from a non-SRS E30. Even if you get things hooked back up right, I was reading on one of the E30 boards that even the dealers can't turn the SRS lights off anymore.
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Oct 24, 2008 03:21
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EvilMoFo posted:are stock bmw wheels from an e46 and an e39 interchangeable? E39 wheels have a larger hub bore and will fit other cars with a smaller bore (like the E46) as long as you use hub-centric rings, but it's not recommended. E39's will take nothing but E39 wheels because of the larger hub bore. Hub-centric rings will make the E39 wheels "fit" an E46, but people have reported weird shakes/shimmies running in this configuration.
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Oct 27, 2008 13:53
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Guinness posted:From my own personal experience with swapping BMW wheels, I have to disagree with this. I put some Style 25s from an E39 onto my E34 without hubcentric rings, and I would get some pretty significant vibrations above 80-85mph. I ordered some $15 hubcenric rings from eBay, threw them on to fill the hub bore gap, and the vibration is entirely gone. Smooth as butter at all speeds. This is what I've heard as well. Also, some people who got crappy hub rings have vibrations too. Not saying it can't be done, just that BMWs are touchy when it comes to wheel balance.
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Oct 28, 2008 00:30
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CornHolio posted:This is exactly why I was confused as hell and put the wrong stuff in mine at first. I read online to use gear oil, but my tranny had a big sticker that said to use ATF. Most BMWs from the 90's on use ATF in their manual transmissions. It's perfectly safe to use Redline MTL as well. The ATF helps gear engagement in colder environments, but with MTL, you can just slow your shifting down a bit. If you want to be truly "by the book", you have to find BMW's "Lifetime" fill MTF. They sell it in 5 gallon drums only, AFAIK.
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Oct 29, 2008 22:42
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CornHolio posted:It looks like Pelican Parts has 'Karyln' brand tie rod ends for a mere $16, this is a lot cheaper than the OEM 'Lemfoerder' brand (those are $60). Should these be avoided, or what? Karyln parts are hit or miss. Some people have them and think they're fine, other people have bought them and the joints were loose right out of the box. I fall into the latter group. I was burned twice with Karyln parts and won't buy them again. I had control arms where the bushings were torn within 500 miles of installation and I bought tierods where the ball joint was loose out of the box. It's OEM or nothing from now on. You can't really judge motor mounts by feel when they're installed on the car. If they are torn AND leaking, twisted, or collapsed, then you need to replace them. Those surface cracks look pretty normal and are probably nothing to worry about. A good way to check is to open the hood, set the E-brake, and slowly let the clutch out in 1st gear with the engine running. Give the car a little gas to keep it from stalling and watch the motor. If it moves more than just a smidge, you have bad mounts. EDIT: At your mileage, new mounts will probably reduce vibrations in general, but if the motor isn't moving around a lot, you're in no danger of anything breaking loose.
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Nov 3, 2008 01:31
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CornHolio posted:How hard is it to replace tie rods (do I need a puller) and do I need to replace the whole thing or just the ends? It's not particularly hard, but sometimes the ball joints are tough to pop out. On an E36, you should be able to use a pickle fork (you'll destroy the boots, but you're replacing them). You can get under the car and wiggle the tie rods to see if there is play on just the outer or both the outer and inner joints. It's not that much more difficult to do the inners. You'll need new boots (if yours are torn), new boot clamps, and new locking plates for the inner joints. Yes, you will need an alignment after all of this. Be sure to count the exposed threads on the old parts before removing them. You'll want to get the new parts close so you can drive it to the shop. RANT: The E39 (and probably other BMWs) uses ball joints that are placed such that a pickle fork can't get any leverage to pop the ball joint free. Also, the bolts are extra long, so a standard clamp-type ball joint puller won't work either. You need to spend upwards of $150 for the "special" (extra wide opening) clamp-type ball joint puller to pop the joints the correct way. I ended up grinding down a pickle fork until it fit properly, and even then it took forever to pop the joints. 
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Nov 3, 2008 17:05
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CornHolio posted:Now, is this something I can wait until spring for, or is it a safety hazard? I'd hate to destroy my new tie-rods in the winter. Are you worried about them being exposed to the elements, or hitting something? If it's the former, don't worry. If it's the latter, then as long as the balljoints aren't crazy loose and clunking, you should be able to get through winter. I'd still replace them though. Piece of mind and all...
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Nov 3, 2008 22:06
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Arwox posted:Ceramic brake pads for an e36 m3. Special? No. New rotors are always a good idea when replacing pads because the old pads imprint a wear pattern on the rotors. This can cause an imbalance when you brake with the new pads unless you get the rotors turned, which BMW doesn't recommend (takes too much material off the rotor).
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Nov 6, 2008 03:52
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Lufiron posted:While I do agree with this, BMW doesn't. Not too long ago, techs at the dealers were replacing rotors with everyone brake service, regardless of the actual rotor specs. BMW didn't like this, and are now enforcing rotor measurements. If your rotors are above minimum thickness and don't show any damage or weird wear going on, you get just a pad slap now. This only applies to cars under their maintenance plan. Everyone else still gets new rotors. Why am I not surprised. It's amazing how little maintenance these new BMWs require now that BMW is footing the bill for maintenance!  My 318iS has 189,000 miles on it, doesn't burn a drop of oil, shifts crisply, still has the original, leak-free radiator, doesn't have diff-whine, brakes evenly and doesn't have any funny squeaks or rattles. The original and second owners followed BMWs original maintenance schedule to the letter, including a 1200 mile break-in service, coolant and brake fluid flushes every 2 years, diff and tranny fluid changes at Inspection II, oil changes every 5000 miles, and so on. These cars will truly last forever if you just take care of them.
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Nov 6, 2008 14:50
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I've also found that gkeuroparts.com and bimmerparts.com have good prices. The frustrating thing is, if your shopping for 10 parts, one place will have the best price on one or two parts, another place on 2 other parts, and so on. Sometimes the differences don't outweigh the shipping costs, sometimes they do.
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Nov 6, 2008 19:10
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 14:54 |
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CornHolio posted:Speaking of this, what years and models had the CDV? Hard to tell. Some early E46's didn't have it and most later (2002+) did. My early production 2001 did NOT have it, but my buddies later production 2001 DID. Most E39's had it as did most E36 M3's. I'm not convinced the CDV is as big a deal as people make it out to be, or maybe what they are feeling is in their heads. I've driven plenty of cars with and without and I can't feel a difference. My E46 330i didn't have it but my E39 530i did. Same engine and transmission and I could still drop the clutch and light up the tires with DSC off on both cars and I couldn't feel anything "funny" with the clutch in the E39 that I didn't also feel in the E46. I drove my 330i without a CDV back to back with my friends 330i with a CDV and neither of us could feel anything different between the cars. I'm sure some are sensitive enough to feel it, but I'd wager, given a double-blind test, most people wouldn't be able to tell a car with and one without, apart. Xenoid posted:If you have to ask if it's the mod for you, just remember that no M cars have it. Not true. It was on later E36 M3's and people have found them on E46 M3s from about 2003 on. Brock Landers fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Nov 10, 2008 |
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Nov 10, 2008 04:16
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