BMW Thread: this is the bmw thread. we drive blue cars

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > BMW Thread: this is the bmw thread. we drive blue cars

«‹›3 »

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Whoring out? Consider me in....

My 325 TDS SE

It may have neither the economy or performance of new diesels but I've loved every mile I've put on it, I got it earlier this year for �1000. Just fitted to some E46 wheels, i'm going to sort the suspension out (it rolls like a ship full of whales) and maybe chip it. It had 136.5k on it when I got it and I've taken it up to 139k now, which is pretty low compared to most of the other ones I've seen on ebay.

Fuel computer currently read 36.2 UK mpg average (30 US mpg), which seems a bit low, I'm not sure if perhaps there is something wrong with it or if I should just lay off the LOL pedal. Out of interest what mpg do you guys see out of your petrol models?

# ¿ Mar 28, 2008 21:06

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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 16:46

stump: Jan 19, 2006

People posted:

20-27 mpg

My 30mpg average doesn't sound too bad then, I guess bad mileage is just the price of having 6cyl and RWD.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2008 12:57

stump: Jan 19, 2006

This sounds like a stupid question but my only experience with coolant systems is with ones that have multiple and serious problems, so I'm not sure what is normal.

I was checking the oil on my E36 ('95 M51 2.5 tds 6 cyl) today and I noticed the top radiator pipe was soft (i.e. not much pressure in the system), I turned the engine on for a minute and it stayed soft.

I've not noticed any overheating hi-jinks and the coolant tank is at the normal level, no signs of oil and coolant mixing. I've not done any maintenance of the coolant system myself and as far as I know it's on it's original water pump (I should change it, I know). So is this normal, and if not what problems should I be looking at?

Edit: Reading my haynes (which only covers petrol models :argh:

) I just discovered the radiator is isolated from the engine till it comes up to temp, I'll go out for a drive later and see if it pressures up when it's warm.

I hope it's fine, thanks to the French I hate and fear coolant systems

stump fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Apr 6, 2008

# ¿ Apr 6, 2008 17:12

stump: Jan 19, 2006

TractionControl posted:

As far as I know the radiator pipes get hard when they get hot.

I could be totally wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's totally normal until it comes up to temperature, and then they harden.

Cheers, I didn't catch your post before I edited. I'll take it out for a blast later and check its OK.

# ¿ Apr 6, 2008 17:32

stump: Jan 19, 2006

clredwolf posted:

Wheels

I got a set of E46 16" wheels for �200 delivered from eBay, with decent quality tires, 2 almost new and 2 legal. But this was in the UK so your mileage may vary.

I'm not sure what model wheels they are, but I reckon they look pretty good on E36's and are cheap and pleniful (at least in the UK)

# ¿ Apr 13, 2008 18:28

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Does anybody have an experience with BMW Scanner 1.36 Software/Cables? I got a second hand unit from ebay but I can't get it to work. The laptop seems to be communicating with the box (I get a different error when the box isn't plugged in), and the box lights up (Power & K-Line) when plugged into the car, but it always says "Cannot find unit' or something along those lines.

# ¿ May 2, 2008 17:51

stump: Jan 19, 2006

TractionControl posted:

Why would a mid-engined supercar have a huge front hood bulge that looks conveniently almost identical to an E92 M3's?

Well the E46 M3 had a pointless power bulge too, so why not?

Although the b pillar back above the beltline looks like a veyron so who knows? It looks pretty sexy anyway.

# ¿ May 6, 2008 17:35

stump: Jan 19, 2006

TractionControl posted:

The E46 M3 has its engine in the front though. The M1 traditionally would not though, because it has its engine in the back.

Yeah I suppose a unnecessary power bulge is exponentially more retarded when it's not even above the engine.

# ¿ May 6, 2008 17:41

stump: Jan 19, 2006

CornHolio posted:

Is there somewhere where I can find a full listing, with photos, of the different stock E36 wheels?

I have no idea what '7JX16 double-spoke style 30' or ''7x15 20-spokes' are.

Try: http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com/

# ¿ Jun 10, 2008 16:32

stump: Jan 19, 2006

I gotta say i'm not a fan of coloured interior at all execpt cream or brown, unless it's just small highlights. My old Citroen had a black interior with a little bit of green in the cloth and it looked quite nice. I hate the blue cloth BMW and MB used in the 80's and 90's.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2008 19:16

stump: Jan 19, 2006

The gearbox in my E36 is quite notchy to shift, and feels jerky when bringing the clutch up. Occasionally when driving hard it will crunch and not go into gear, I'm not sure but I think its usually when going 3-4.

I was thinking it could be one or more or all of these things...
Engine Mounts
Transmission Mounts
Diff Mounts
RTAB's (no knocking over bumps though)
Gubbed Clutch (Perhaps not disengaging properly?)
Knackered Gearbox

What do you guys think?

It's a '95 325 TDS (6cyl diesel M51 engine, 5sp manual) with 144k on the clock.

# ¿ Sep 2, 2008 20:23

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Sterndotstern posted:

Fluid/CDV..

Cheers, I've ordered some Synchromax and see I'll what that does.

I did wonder about it being the CDV when I read about them in the Porsche thread, my car has the characteristics of having one fitted but I assumed that the E39 5-er was the first one to have it. A bit of googling suggests some E36's had it so I'll check that out too.

If the diff/transmission/engine mounts aren't too hard to do I might do them when I finally get round to doing the suspension bushes.

# ¿ Sep 3, 2008 13:05

stump: Jan 19, 2006

I assume only E46 saloon seats wills fit an E36 saloon? The vert/coupe and touring one are different, right? I take it the back seats won't fit, too? I've been thinking about getting new seats for mt E36 for a while and I never realized E46 ones fitted.

Also, what kind of hassle am I looking at for changing the manual transmission oil? I've got two bottles of royal purple sitting but I'm a bit apprehensive about doing it. Do I need to drop the gearbox or use a syphon or any other kind of crazy hassle?

stump fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Oct 29, 2008

# ¿ Oct 29, 2008 13:57

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Doctor Grape Ape posted:

I think any E46 seat will work, the only difference between coupe and sedan seats is the latch that allows easier entry to the rear seats on the coupe.

They aren't a drop in fit, you have to enlarge the holes on the rails 1/8"-1/4", and then do all the wiring.

Cool,. The wiring wouldn't be too much hassle as I'm not fussed about electronic adjustment or heated buttcheeks.

CornHolio posted:

Incredibly easy.

Cheers, I've only ever topped up fluid on a FWD car before that was a pain, was expecting a RWD car to be worse.

# ¿ Oct 29, 2008 19:18

stump: Jan 19, 2006

I've had my "new" 1996 325tds se for just over a week a week now. I had a blue 1994 325tds se until christmas when I wrote it off and stupidly repalced it with a '99 VW Bora which handled like a wheelbarrow full of puppies and kept breaking. I think the only thing I'll miss about the bora is having AC, but I live in scotland so it is hardly a necessity*.

It had 144k and a bit when I picked it up in Somerset, but i've done a bit over a thousand now between driving it back up to Stirling via central London (which was nowhere near as terrorfying as I expected) and running about this week. For those who aren't familiar it has a 143hp M51 turbo diesel engine, or at least that's what it was putting out back in 1996, but power and economy seems to be short on my old one so I'll need to check out what's up with that. I assume nobody else here will be familiar with the M51 engine (it was also used in range rovers and omegas) but if anybody is I might have some brain picking to do.

It has a few issues though:
When I went to leave my parents place last night, I suddenly realised I had no dipped beam, but sidelights, mains, and fogs were fine. Today after checking the bulbs I swapped relays 5(fog) & 6(headlight) around and suddenly it I have all lights working. Which is nice, but I'd like to know what the hell was the problem in the first place, since headlights are kinda useful. Any ideas?

The miles/trip/service indicator is screwy as hell, is a new set of gauges a straight swap or will it need coded or anything?

There might be an issue with the front suspension, since the pass. side tyre was overly worn on the inside, there was some (probably old) rubbing on the back inside of the arches. and the steering did feel a tiny bit loose. I think I might just do a refresh of anything that looks a bit worn on the suspension

And it has a crappy Clifford concept 300 alarm which I'm just going to bin. I'm going to bin the clear corners for either smoked or orange ones, and a chip/wheels & tyres/suspension might be on the radar but then again I had my old tds for a year and never got round to doing anything but wheels. The optional M-spoke wheels it has are quite nice though, I don't fancy any other E36 or E46 wheels unless I find anything aftermarket that looks good in 17" I might just stick new rubber on what I've got. I had 18"s on the bora for a while and don't want to go that big again.

*Edit: Oh and getting 47uk mpg in the bora while driving like a tit was nice... my old e36 only got 37 average but at least I had a smile on my face. I though about stretching to an e46 320d but from what i've read the only advantage for the extra �2000 would be better fuel economy. I paid �1120 for it on ebay, fyi.

stump fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Aug 10, 2009

# ¿ Aug 10, 2009 18:47

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Cakefool posted:

BMW nerds, I need diesel advice.

I want to put a decent diesel engine in a volvo 240, complete with manual box & was wondering about BMW's offerings. I'm after about 200ftlb torque, nothing monstrous, bonus points for a simple electrical job - any particular engine come to mind?

How about a M51? In 325/525tds guise its a good engine for it's age, although economy isn't as good as newer diesels. I've had two 325tds's and power is good but I only get 37mpg(UK) on country roads, 40+ on the motorway UK. It has a electronic throttle though, and if it has EWS you'll need to keep the transponder key. �500 would get you a donor car probally.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M51

A peugeot/citroen XUD9TE (1.9td) would be a cheap alternative, not as powerfull but just meets your requirements. Most applications are FWD but the LDV pilot van used an XUD engine with RWD. I got an engine for �150 for my old ZX. Headgaskets are the only weak point I know of.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_XUD

# ¿ Oct 22, 2009 18:26

stump: Jan 19, 2006

I've noticed my 325tds has quite a lean to the drivers side. Anythis in particular I should check for in the suspension? Both the front and back are lower. As far as I know suspension is standard and original, and it has 148,000 miles on it.

Low side, note how low the back wheel looks. There isn't anything heavy in the boot.

Gangsta lean

Back wheel, low side.

Back wheel, high side.

# ¿ Oct 22, 2009 21:18

stump: Jan 19, 2006

CornHolio posted:

I dunno but man I like those wheels.

Ta, they are 16's off a cooking model e90, but I think they look quite good on the e36 I reckon. Not bad for �140 posted with four nearly new continetnals.

Click here for the full 800x435 image.

# ¿ Oct 22, 2009 21:43

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Cakefool posted:

E28, E30, E34, gotcha, will have a look.

For what its worth I don't think I've ever seen an M21 diesel BMW. I think they are pretty rare in the UK.

Another non-bmw engine but mkiv VW Golf era tdi's are pretty sweet, but I don't know what this issues of putting one in a in Volvo would be but i'm pretty sure I saw a Caterham with a Audi tdi engine in Practical Performance cars a year or so back.

stump fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Oct 22, 2009

# ¿ Oct 22, 2009 23:38

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Cakefool posted:

Alright, so what am I looking for?

The M51 (x25tds etc) is the common one, the M21 (x24td)is less common.

Pilsner posted:

Look at the belt line. The wheel well in the back is simply seated lower than in the front. Same with the E34.

As for the driver's side lean, I'd say the shocks, one side has probably started to go. Original shocks at 148k miles = busted for sure. Replace both.

Ah, I've always assumed the back looking lower was just because of the wheel well heights, but there is a definite lean from the passenger to drivers side front and back. As long as it's just worn shocks/spring that's ok, I plan on replacing them at one point (and doing the bushes at the same time). I wish I'd jumped on the set of Bilstein B12 demon tweaks had on clearance sale for a while.

# ¿ Oct 26, 2009 19:03

stump: Jan 19, 2006

buildmyrigdotcom posted:

A study recently ranked the most reliable vehicle manufacturers, and the winner is... BMW! Wait, what?

http://www.gizmag.com/most-reliable-vehicles-in-uk/13298/

All I ever hear about from BMW owners is how their poo poo breaks constantly.

My only thought on this is that it's a study done by a UK fleet magazine, of fleet vehicles. So that means lots of base models, diesels and 4cyl petrols, and perhaps not many vehicles over 3 years old. I would be unsurprised if that gave quite different results to your experience of (assuming you are in the US) mostly 6cyl petrols, many of which will be older.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2009 23:49

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Jerk McJerkface posted:

Thanks!

One question regarding appearance. If I go from 16 to 17's, and get new tires, They should end up with about the same outside tire diameter, right? I'm new to buying performance tires/wheels and I really know nothing about it, and need all the information I can get.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

You can use this to make sure you get the same outside diameter, or at least know how far off you are.

# ¿ Dec 7, 2009 23:21

stump: Jan 19, 2006

I found the E36 to be incredibly planted in the snow, back end rarely steps out and is easily controllable when it does. I didn't have weight in the back or snow tyres either. My old flat was at the bottom of an unploughed hill and it coped very well.

# ¿ Dec 16, 2009 23:59

stump: Jan 19, 2006

I currently drive an 155k '95 E36 325tds and I'm looking at upgrading to a E46 320D. Is there anything in particular I should look at other than the usual? Anything that sucks in the E46 that didn't in the E36? What are repairs and servicing like in comparison, I do whatever work I can be bothered doing myself and get the rest done by a reliable backstreet place if that matters.

I'm looking at later 320d's (150hp, 6 speed) with less than 100,000 miles. I'm hoping they'll feel a bit less tired and wooly than my two e36's which where both a bit long in the tooth (but still awesome). I have considered spending money sorting out the e36 instead but the 320d's extra power and economy are pretty tempting. I'm all :dance:

and

.

I might go see this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280477760006#ht_768wt_1165

# ¿ Mar 22, 2010 22:10

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Saga posted:

Not an E36 expert, but the E46 diesels featured plastic manifolds which are known for self-destructing (have seen it happen in a 330d myself). Not a whole lot you can do about that one as long as everything looks sound on the one you buy - other than that, they're good engines.

The E46 has solid fundamentals combined with a long list of absolute arsearche trim and minor mechanical issues, some of which are either time consuming or expensive. UK cars are also usually massively overtyred, but you knew that. They are such a PITA - compared to my E46, and despite a lifetime of abuse as a beater before I got it, my E30 is a tank. My running repairs bill last year was approximately equal to two tyres for my 330. I would not own another E46, let's put it that way. Also, too fat to be fun on b roads.

The petrol cars had issues with sludging caused, the theory goes, by BMW extending service intervals by stroke of the keyboard (and some rewriting of the service indicator logic ). Needless to say, they then ended up being driven past the Oil Service interval (wait for the light to come up, faff for a month and do 5,000 more miles of sales repping) by some owners and given the cheapest possible oil. 3rd owner then peeks under the cam cover and breaks down, much like the car shortly thereafter. No idea whether this has been a problem with the diesels.

Final thing - if you're willing to spend �5k+ on that ebay car, you could probably stretch to a BMW approved 1 series from a dealer, complete with warranty. Last time I looked, I was surprised to see them coming in under �10k. They drive well, especially if you ignore anything labelled M Sport or other pimp wheel options, and are obviously lighter cars (1375 dry or so v. 1500+?). Unfortunately, unless you can stretch to �12,500+ and sell an e36 or two, you probably won't get the post-2007 ED cars, which not only have the nicest t-diesels I've ever driven (the its-just-like-a-petrol type...), but eye-wateringly good claimed MPG.

Thanks, I'll bare all that in mind. I've been considering spending a bit more, early 120d's and E90's are at the top of my price range (although only after 6+ months of saving or having a bigger loan). I'm only looking to finance about �3000 of my purchase so if I'm spending about �8000 i'm looking at doubling my monthly payment. I've always bought cars cash and the most i've ever spent was �1500 (VW MKIV Bora, king of reliability!) so I'm not all that keen on having a lot of credit.

I'll take into account the maintenance issues, but since (other than keeping the E36 which needs work itself) I'm only cross shopping other newish BMW's or perhaps a Mondeo TDCI so I doubt I'll get anything without potential maintainance headaches.

What's the verdict on the factory M-Sport suspension on the E46? Is it any good or just needless audi-style back breaking? I'm going to look at a car tonight that has it.

stump fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Mar 23, 2010

# ¿ Mar 23, 2010 16:31

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Well I went to look the E46 320d I'd posted earlier and it seems to be in great condition.... apart from the service history.

18062: Inspection 1 (BMW)
35664: Inspection 1 (BMW)
61170: Oil Service (BMW)
92179: Inspection 2 (Private)
30k between services, unless they happen to not have been marked in.
:derp:

Other than this I'm buying it, but this is making me nervous.

# ¿ Mar 23, 2010 22:21

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Saga posted:

Stuff.

Thanks again. The car I drove last night had m-sport suspension & 17" wheels and it didn't seem too bad, but I'd imagine 19"s would be pretty harsh. I decided to leave that one because of the service history, shame since it was otherwise immaculate and cheap (I had him down to 4800, which is pretty good for an 04 plate with 97k). I did however fall in love with the bloody thing, so I'm glad I decided to sleep on it otherwise I'd have bought it last night!

I've been looking at some other e46 tourings (preferably 04+ which had some engine problems sorted) online, and a 1xxd's are tempting (but small & expensive), I might go have a look at one this weekend anyway. I'm looking at pistonheds, but mainly ebay, autotrader, bmw approved and just generally keeping my eyes peeled driving about. I'm up in scotland so the market isn't massive, I've bought cheaper cars from england without seeing them before, but I sure as hell aint buying a �5000 car without testdriving it!

# ¿ Mar 24, 2010 19:57

stump: Jan 19, 2006

A few weeks ago I asked about buying an E46 320d, and in typical AI style I ignored advice that the engines like to poo poo the bed and bought one anyway.

It's a 2004/03 320d touring and it had 100,617 miles on the clock, decent service history and I paid �6000. It's got bluetooth, climate control, rear parking sensors, a tape deck and a cd changer. It came with 16" wheels but I curbed one (arse) and bust a tyre, so instead of buying a new tyre I got a set of 17"s with decent tyres for �155.

I'm pretty chuffed with it and I've been getting good fuel economy compared to my old 325tds, and it's quicker too

These figures are for about 60% country roads, 10% urban and 30% motorway, UK MPG.

Since I have a silly gay phone I had to mount it somehow, this is how I had it mounted in my E36, it's a holder from a cheap dealextreme suction mount ziptied to the vents.

To mount it in the E46 I bought a brodit clip and used double sided sticy pads to mount the holder. I'm using a tape adaptor and the charger hides in the ash tray when I'm not using it.

The major failiure points for the 320d are the turbo and the swirl flaps. I have the stronger, revised turbo and I'll be fitting a revised manifold with stronger swirl flaps soon. Other than that my plans are probally a chip at some point and roof bars with bike racks and probably a fairing.

I might fit an OEM cd head unit & a USA-Spec iphone in kit but I'm not keen on losing the cd changer. The speakers are a bit gash, but am I right in assuming they are a pain to replace or is that just the upgraded (HK? Bose?) stereo.

Only issues so far have been the shifter wobbling by about 1-2cm at speed. Is this normal or do I need new shifter bushings or something?

stump fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Apr 28, 2010

# ¿ Apr 28, 2010 21:16

stump: Jan 19, 2006

MajesticTrout posted:

Because I'm an idiot, my E36 328 is sitting in the driveway with all the doors locked and the key in the ignition. I don't have a spare key but the trunk is still open.

Is there a good way to unlock it? I have folding rear seats but there doesn't seem to be a way to unlatch them from the trunk side.

Done this :/ Called out the RAC (breakdown people) and he levered the top of the door frame out and popped a thing down to pull the door pin up. Didn't damage the door but he used various tools to lever it gently.

# ¿ Oct 22, 2010 11:47

stump: Jan 19, 2006

It think it comes back to a basic rule I remember hearing in AI,

Modifying a car to make it go fast = Good
Modifying a car to make it look good = Fine
Modifying a car to make it look fast = Silly

# ¿ Oct 22, 2010 14:44

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Taco Box posted:

Don't know much about the e39 but car logic tells me throttle position sensor (or pedal position sensor if e39s are DBW)

Your car might have the DBW throttle that adjusts to your driving style? Resetting it wouldn't hurt, although I doubt that's what it is.

See: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=575701

# ¿ Nov 11, 2010 16:15

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Ice Road Roundels...

e46 320d + Dunlop Winter Sport 3Ds = Best thing I have ever driven in the snow. Only reason I've been stuck so far was because I missed a motorway exit (it was just two slushy black lines), I decided to cut across virgin snow and plowed / bottomed out :rolleyes:

Dug less than half the snow away, rocked back and forth with DSC off and just drove out

# ¿ Dec 6, 2010 19:40

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Cheers for letting me know why my washer wasn't working! Luckily my front washers have only frozen up twice so far, -8.5c seems to be too cold for them. Not sure how much difference switching DSC off makes but it did seem to help me get moving when I was proper stuck. Otherwise DSC does magical things to keep me in a straight line, although it mostly only comes on if I try and provoke it!

# ¿ Dec 6, 2010 20:36

stump: Jan 19, 2006

The back end can still get a bit lairy with traction control on when pulling off from a standstill junction if you aren't careful in snow and slush. Once it is going DSC keeps things going straight very well, but it still needs provocation/carelessness to get the DSC light flickering. Not had much of a chance to play with DSC off, I've been concentrating on staying out of ditches as opposed to opposite lock fun times

# ¿ Dec 7, 2010 16:52

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Saga posted:

I thought DSC was only amusing in the snow. I remember it being fun to just floor the throttle in 1st in my 330 and have the dsc sort it out.

The system was a loving pain otherwise - getting out of junctions for example, or trying to clip an apex, not drive into the inside curb. If you didn't turn it off, the DSC would tuck the nose in so you had to let off lock to get round the corner.

To be honest I've rarely activated DSC outside first gear in other than in the snow. The limits of the car are above how fast I feel comfortable going on public roads, I guess the downside of having a car the handles well is that you have less chance to explore it's limits :smith:

I need to get my rear end to a trackday.

# ¿ Dec 7, 2010 19:30

stump: Jan 19, 2006

wolrah posted:

I have an '02 and one press of the DSC button is good for the usual situations you'd want to disable traction control in normal driving, holding the button turns it all off for racing and/or loving around.

Never realised that it had three modes, I always assumed it was just on and off! Will have to find an empty car park and experiment!

# ¿ Dec 8, 2010 23:50

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Well, gently caress you BMW for making the air filter on the 320d an absolute bitch to do. Just done a well needed service after 15k miles since I bought it 8 months ago... with the service indicator telling me I had 6k to go till the next one :pseudo:

I think after seeing the coal I drained out I'll do the next one at 10k... either that or the place I bought it from didn't bother with the service and just reset the indicator. Which would be it about a 30-40k service interval :derp:

# ¿ Jan 24, 2011 23:26

stump: Jan 19, 2006

tesko.pk posted:

That service countdown indicator on your OBC screen doesn't actually lower with the mileage, but by the fuel consumption IIRC. Oil changes every 6500km (about 4k miles) is what I go by.

4k? That's keen! I usually just stick roughly to the manufacturers recommendations, but since BMW kinda messed up on this one I'll reduce it.

# ¿ Jan 25, 2011 11:00

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Saga posted:

The consensus on bimmerfest when I had an E46 (don't know if yours is a 46 or a 90) was definitely not to listen to the service indicator. That way sludging lies. Many people seemed to do 5-7.5k intervals. e: the place you got it could also have "serviced" it but just used the cheapest possible multigrade mineral oil with the appropriate numbers and not changed the filter. Which could also account for the muck.

4 does seem a bit over-cautious with a top-quality LL01 (or whatever they spec for the E90) oil, I guess, given that those oils should be shear-stable and still lubricating happily well past 5k.

If you haven't turned your waste oil over to the council and actually want to know, you could have it analysed. More of a US thing, but I'm sure there's a UK equivalent of Blackstone Labs.

It's an '04 e46. I've used the correct quality oil, although I wouldn't be surprised if they used cheap crap last time. I had intended to change it just after I bought it to be safe but couldn't be arsed in the end, and the suddenly I realised I'd done 15k! I would send it off the be analysed but it's all mixed up with other oil in my drain tray, along with the excess diesel from my old fuel filter.

I know the service indicator isn't to be trusted, but I didn't expect it to be telling me I could do 21k without changing the oil... no wonder every e46 I've seen has awful service records!

I've got the later engine with the uprated turbo, and I plan on blanking the swirl flaps, if I do sensible oil changes the it should hopefully keep going for another 100k or so

# ¿ Jan 25, 2011 14:21

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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 16:46

stump: Jan 19, 2006

Yeah, I think I might fit a de-cat downpipe and get it remapped at some point this year, pennies allowing. From what I've head a remap should actually improve my fuel economy. To be honest it has just the right amount of power already, but I wouldn't mind at more.

# ¿ Jan 26, 2011 11:08

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > BMW Thread: this is the bmw thread. we drive blue cars

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