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Guinness posted:For under 5k you could get a running E34 or E36 in decent to good shape. It likely will not be "perfect", but 5k should get you a pretty all-around solid car. Man, maybe it's because I'm in CA or something (which you'd think would make it EASIER, not HARDER) but I've very rarely spotted an E36 under 150k miles for anywhere near 5k. Every time I look up Autotrader or craigslist, I see them closer to 8k than 5k. I'm actually really miffed because I saw a green 1990 E30 in GORGEOUS (at least outside) condition, and I remembered someone in AI once saying that you can tell a lot about the condition of the car based on how the owner treats their seats, and these were in great, if not perfect, condition. The kicker: it was $2200, and I couldn't see the odometer from the window since it was really bright out but I think it was around 150k. I was out jogging, so I start sprinting to the nearest store to get a piece of paper and pen to write down the phone number in the window, but by the time I came back it was gone. Also, regarding the DIY crowd, how "friendly" are the E30s/E34/E36s to someone who is still learning, as far as car mechanics go, and what's a recommended toolset for someone who would get one?
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Apr 16, 2008 21:20
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:38 |
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I'm about ready to finally pull the trigger on an E36 at the end of this month (when I should have my tax refund too), and I'm trying to figure out if I'm missing anything. What I want: E36 92-95 (I hear about VANOS issues 96+), as close to, preferably under, 100k miles, manual (duh) preferably 2 door but will settle for 4, and paying about 3500-4000 in California. I've read up on all of the maintenance for the E36s of about that mileage (IE: http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=55), have about 1500 budgeted for the said parts (car will not be a daily driver, or at least one that I will DEPEND on, as I don't commute to work, public transportation) My questions are these: For the maintenance stuff above, what am I looking in terms of "skill" and tools needed to get that stuff done on my own? Time is not a factor, as, like I said, I don't have to drive it to work or anything. I've done maintenance and part replacements on my Sentra but nothing really crazy like messing with the engine/transmission/suspension. What should I look for as being signs of "something bad" while taking it out on a test drive from a potential seller? What's a shop that's NOT filled with shady assholes in the entirety of San Jose, CA that I could trust should something go amiss that's good with BMWs? I swear to God when I had my Sentra I used the mechanics as a diagnostic tool only and they STILL never found the correct thing that was wrong with the car at any given time, and this was about 6 shops total. Finally, what's a good community resource (other than Bimmerforums which I've registered on) for other "work on your own car" enthusiasts around the San Jose area? Thanks, I look forward to joining this thread proper soon. :p
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Jan 9, 2009 04:51
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So here I was about 2 months go blabbin' my head off about almost having the funds to pull an E36 off the market. And suddenly, all the good ones VAMOOSED. Seriously, within 4 months the market went from sweet deals for 3k to $7.5k 98 318 autos with 200k miles. (Yes, i really did see this. Yes, he was 100 percent serious) I did find one interesting deal, however, not a 3. A Z3. (so yes, a 3 in a "I'm not quite gay enough for a miata mode). And that's no exaggeration, because it's the 96 1.(9?), aka basically a 318 gimp the little motor that could. So here's the good, paraphrased from the horse's mouth: quote:The engine has 142k miles on it, but had a complete rebuild at 123k, and a new clutch 5k miles ago. When the engine and clutch were done, I also replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, wires (IIRC)... I think that's it. All of that was just under 20k miles ago. Given that he's got the records for the major stuff and the carfax checks out, I talked him into doing the brakes if I pay in full cash, and I can probably talk him down to 5k. I also asked him about the common subframe issue and he said that he had it checked out and it is fine. Considering I"ll probably have to do the suspension bits (if it's anything like the normal E36 rubber bits), should I bite the bullet and do it? I saw the turbo options and at 3K to basically get it to a regular 325 E36 engine, and it doesn't seem worth it. Any cheap bolt-ons to get that 138hp up?
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Feb 24, 2009 05:22
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So the guy whose Z3 I was going to get decided he needed the whole payment in cash, and then some jackass from Seattle payed him 6k cash on the spot and flew down there to pick up the car the car pretty much the next day. Every single person I call in San Jose, CA that has a DECENT E36, has been, without fail, someone who either speaks NO english, or very LITTLE english. The ad is there, written in the grammar of a 16 year old, then I call to go "hey man how many miles on this car?" and am responded to with either "que, no engles", or "eh man yeah it's got like 130k on it or something around there joo no but if joo what joo no you can get it mang I'm selling it like right now man joo know just drop by" Any other questions are met with uncomfortable silence and a repeat of the above. 3 months of looking so far, no results. Too bad EVERY SINGLE REVIEW on Steadfast Motors says they're lovely, shady rear end dealers 'cause they seem to have stuff I want and would pay for, but apparently all of their craigslist ads are bait and switches, cars aren't in the condition they're claimed on in the ad, wrong cars are pictures, more mileage is on them, etc.
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Mar 17, 2009 08:11
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peterjmatt posted:If you're willing to live with an underpowered, impractical, tiny roadster, just go with a Miata. Sure you have to forfeit your balls on delivery but it's as much fun to drive as a 1.9 z3 and a hell of a lot cheaper all around. I test drove the very same "gutless" 96 Z3 and I've driven my buddy's 90 Miata, (both stick) and yeah, basically this. I'm not saying don't get it because I would have bought it if some other dude hadn't offered more for it (it was private party), but if you're looking for a cheap roadster, you can find a decent condition 97-98 Miata for 3500-4000 with 75-100k miles on it and though the z3 has that "planted" speed feeling, the Miata definitely has a nice feel to it as well and cornering just feels ridiculously planted for how light and floaty the car feels. Also, I'm pretty short, and you'd think that'd be an advantage in the Z3, but I could never get into a position where I had what I'd consider a proper close view of the road. if I got too high, my head would hit the soft-top, lower than that, half of my view is the hood. I prefer the Z for the road feel, and the Miata for stupid fun.
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Mar 31, 2009 07:09
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Well, after bitchin' earlier last month about my impossible quest to find a BMW, I've finally found a BMW! I'm blueballing with no pictures as I haven't had a chance to take any yet, unfortunately. I wanted to get something in decent condition I could build up myself, but ended up settling for someone else's work due to the hardship in FINDING something I'm pleased with. Black on black 95 325i 4 door, mantran. 130k on engine and tranny (ouch, only bad about it, although the car has been babied and well taken care of, the clutch and transmission feel smooth) Stuff put into it: quote:m3 suspension: Suspension bits have less than 5k miles on 'em, haven't been driven hard, and nothing is older than 8k. Bought it from a total enthusiast, whose entire household owns E36 M3s. (Yes, I almost wanted to keep the guy talking just 'cause every time I was there he was working on SOMETHING and I wanted to just drop the shop talk and help him out) I feel I overpaid by a bit for it but eh, got rid of the headache of not finding anything I liked and getting SOMETHING. I feel like I'm driving someone ELSE'S car but I hope that I'll soon get acquainted and get that "you're MINE" feeling. A few questions: There's some heavy oxidation nasty stuff on the battery in the trunk, how would I go about cleaning it, and if not possible, replace it ASAP? Can I still find random E36 trim bits at dealerships? I need one little rubber corner bit for the rear window which I figure won't cost more than a few bux, and I'm wondering that, if I have the key and bring the car in, can they make me a new keyless entry/alarm key fob, as the old one has been lost to the dusts of time. OxMan fucked around with this message at 08:38 on Apr 7, 2009 |
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Apr 7, 2009 08:35
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I can not find that piece on that list. It's not even trim, I guess it's considered moulding. Basically on the rear window, the rubber that goes around on the edges, there is a little corner piece that's its own piece, that is missing on the right side, and I for the life of me can't find it on that list. Am I just looking in the wrong sections? (I checked mouldings and trim)
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Apr 8, 2009 05:48
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peterjmatt posted:Its probably in 51 05 with the glass. That's such a small piece you might as well go to the dealer and have it ordered. I believe all that edge trim is glued, so you'll need to get someone to install it for you anyway. Ah, thanks, I saw it there. The whole thing was 37 but it did have a corner bit, which I should hopefully find at the dealership. Thanks, I feel like an idiot for not looking there :p
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Apr 8, 2009 06:53
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:38 |
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Overture posted:Just snagged this from what turned out to be my boss getting rid of it to upgrade to an M5. He didn't think anyone in the office would want it for some reason and only mentioned it casually when a buyer backed out. It was meant to be, I had been looking at 3 series for the last month, and never thought I'd be able to snag such a sweet M3 for this price (everything checks out and it seems to BB for 3k or so more, it's in excellent condition). Oh you lucky bastard. I was offered a 98 automatic 4 door hellrot M3 with 110k miles on it for 10k and I thought THAT was a decent deal. Your boss is awesome.
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Sep 29, 2009 07:27
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