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z0331 posted:I have an old Stanley no.5. I can use the adjuster knob to retract the blade, but going the other way, trying to advance it, it won't automatically do it. Instead, the Y-lever will stay where it is while the knob goes backward (so a gap will form between the lever and the adjuster nut). I have to unfasten the lever cap in order to loosen the Y-lever so it will move backward against the nut and let the blade/chip breaker to sort of fall forward into the new position. I have a Lie Nielsen no. 4 which works fine that I can use for more careful planing, so this isn't necessarily the end of the world, but it makes it hard to be careful when starting out, and fine adjustments are difficult. Does anyone know if this is something wrong (and maybe fixable) with the plane or if this is just how this particular generation is? You should disassemble, clean, and oil the nut and its post. First remove the lever cap and iron. Remove the tote if it's in the way, and remove the frog from the plane iron if you want to get easier access. Then back the adjuster nut (part 8, below) out all the way: it's screwed onto or is part of a threaded post and should come all the way out of the frog. The wishbone-shaped lever called " "Y adjustment" (part 7), is designed to be able to tilt far enough to allow the nut to come all the way out. I think on some planes the nut and threaded post are all one part, and in some they're separate parts. Just unscrew it all and you'll figure it out. Once the nut is removed, clean and oil the threads. Do not attempt to spread or squeeze closed that Y adjustment part: it's made of cast iron and will snap instead of bending, and adjustment of it isn't necessary. It should fit over the thin section of the knob with maybe a little play, it doesn't need to be tight. 
Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 07:03
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JEEVES420 posted:What saw do you have that would trip at 15? As long as it's on its own circuit you should be fine. It definitely wouldn't be on its own circuit, but yeah. I had to be smart about this with my last place too, although my washer had it's own 20amp circuit that I could use. I could get away with doing small things certainly, but I can't trip circuits during the day while everyone is using everything. The electrical is mostly very old, and it makes me sad.
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Sep 22, 2020 08:54
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Rock My Socks! posted:Anyone here have experience with the Dremel router attachment? Is it garbage, or good enough for very small/casual projects? In my experience with rotary tools having owned a Dremel and a WEN: never, never buy "Dremel" branded anything. It has at least a 100% markup over WEN, and the quality is no different. For example you can buy the Dremel Brand router attachment for $30, where as you can buy an entire WEN rotary tool kit (than includes the router attachment) for $25 https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4/ https://www.amazon.com/WEN-23114-High-Powered-Variable-Accessories/dp/B07FCRH3XG/ I use my rotary tool a lot and I can tell you there is no difference in quality. Rutibex fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 11:50
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Theres some decent 3d printable designs for a router base if thats your thing.
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Sep 22, 2020 12:44
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The junk collector posted:I just want to say that this is a great post. Truly, once you have a lathe and a grinder you never need to buy lathe tools again. I was looking at making a skew out of M4 steel because of how expensive they are to buy but it turns out just getting M4 is stupidly expensive and I don't think I could justify it over M2 unless I turned every day. Actually, I need to find a good place where I can buy wood and metal. I haven't put in the legwork since I moved to Austin and I've never been super happy with online. I got the HSS drill rod from here http://www.hssblanks.com/hssblanks/index.htm because they were the only place I could find longer than 6", but it looks like they only have round rod. The folks in the metalworking thread didn't think M42 was really worth it over M2 for a woodturning tool.
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Sep 22, 2020 13:57
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Leperflesh posted:You should disassemble, clean, and oil the nut and its post. First remove the lever cap and iron. Remove the tote if it's in the way, and remove the frog from the plane iron if you want to get easier access. Then back the adjuster nut (part 8, below) out all the way: it's screwed onto or is part of a threaded post and should come all the way out of the frog. The wishbone-shaped lever called " "Y adjustment" (part 7), is designed to be able to tilt far enough to allow the nut to come all the way out. In the process of taking it apart, I happened to glance at the Lie Nielsen plane and something clicked and I realized what was wrong... The Y lever was all the way inside the adjuster nut, instead of sitting inside the nut's groove/slot. In other words, there was nothing on the inside of the Y lever to push it out when retracting the nut.  I sat the lever properly and it works perfectly. I bought the plane from a collector who restores them before reselling. I guess he just didn't put it back together properly when he reassembled it. I've had this thing for like a year and never looked closely enough.
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Sep 22, 2020 16:25
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Rutibex posted:In my experience with rotary tools having owned a Dremel and a WEN: never, never buy "Dremel" branded anything. It has at least a 100% markup over WEN, and the quality is no different. For example you can buy the Dremel Brand router attachment for $30, where as you can buy an entire WEN rotary tool kit (than includes the router attachment) for $25 Generally I’m with you on that- pretty much all of my Dremel bits and accessories are either Wen or generic Amazon poo poo. But the Dremel router looks way more like a “real” router base; the Wen is just a “cutting guide” to manage the depth of your cuts.
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Sep 22, 2020 16:59
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Hello wood fanatics! DIY Secret Santa signups are open! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941260
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Sep 22, 2020 19:22
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z0331 posted:In the process of taking it apart, I happened to glance at the Lie Nielsen plane and something clicked and I realized what was wrong... Hah! Yeah I could see accidentally doing that while assembling, but it should have been noticeable when he tested it before selling it, which I guess he didn't do. I find restoring old planes very rewarding, although sometimes a bit time-consuming. I've just about finished this old #2 I've been working on, need to post photos when it's done.
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Sep 22, 2020 19:55
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So I'm making a built-in bookcase, and I'm using poplar, which I'll be staining cherry. What should I use on the wood post-stain to seal it?
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Sep 22, 2020 20:37
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careful - poplar often has sorta greenish colors in it which don't always stain the way you intended. Do a test piece on an offcut with some green in it to see how it comes out. You have a world of different finishes to choose from, depends on durability concerns, what you're putting on the shelf, whether you care about water vs. oil based varnish, how you want to maintain it, whether it'll be in sunlight that could fade the wood, etc. etc. etc.
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Sep 22, 2020 21:59
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What’s the general consensus on restoring and maintaining teak? It’s for a lamp so dust is a concern and it’s pretty dry and brittle (some cracks/warps have popped up). Also how could I mend this crack so it doesn’t get worse?  
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Sep 23, 2020 00:46
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cheese eats mouse posted:Also how could I mend this crack so it doesn’t get worse? Do you have some glue? Wood glues together extremely well. Once it sets glue is stronger than the wood itself. Though that looks like it would be awkward to clamp together to give it time to set.
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Sep 23, 2020 01:13
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Man, if I had a drum sander I would 100% copy that lamp, that looks awesome. No idea on the repairs though. 
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Sep 23, 2020 01:21
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cheese eats mouse posted:What’s the general consensus on restoring and maintaining teak? It’s for a lamp so dust is a concern and it’s pretty dry and brittle (some cracks/warps have popped up). Teak needs some oil and love, although I was always under the impression it is naturally oily and has a high mineral content. Teak knowers, please correct any misinformation. It is a godly wood. That crack is going to be wicked, since it's bentwood and just saying "use glue" is wrong and noobish. You may have to glue something thin alongside underneath (which is kinda sacrilegious) for support. edit TooMuchAbstraction posted:Man, if I had a drum sander I would 100% copy that lamp, that looks awesome. That's some resaw work with a capable bandsaw, and I like it too. I don't see a particular need for a drum sander. fakedit2 You may be able to glue it using cauls on either side of the crack, and then sand- but it's very iffy because of the stress. It may be more practical to just have someone copy and replace that one...slice? if possible, rather than try to repair it. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 01:22
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's some resaw work with a capable bandsaw, and I like it too. I don't see a particular need for a drum sander. I haven't had great luck getting better than maybe +- 1/16" of consistency of thickness on resawing, and I'd guess those pieces need to be under 1/16" to flex that well. Maybe I'm wrong. In any case, cleaning up a bunch of veneers that thin without a drum sander sounds tricky at best.
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Sep 23, 2020 01:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I haven't had great luck getting better than maybe +- 1/16" of consistency of thickness on resawing, and I'd guess those pieces need to be under 1/16" to flex that well. Maybe I'm wrong. In any case, cleaning up a bunch of veneers that thin without a drum sander sounds tricky at best. Looks like 1/8" to me, and yeah a drum sander would be ideal, but that's not one of the major must-have tools for everyone. And why not use a planer like God intended?
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Sep 23, 2020 02:01
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cheese eats mouse posted:What’s the general consensus on restoring and maintaining teak? It’s for a lamp so dust is a concern and it’s pretty dry and brittle (some cracks/warps have popped up). Yikes that's a tough one to fix. My first inclination is do nothing and just handle it very carefully to prevent further damage. Hang it high enough that nobody ever bumps it. If you had to do something, I'd say thin CA glue/superglue or maybe epoxy is likely the best option, but both tend to make a mess. It's a cross grain crack which is even more perilous than a long grain one, and normal yellow wood glue isn't going to help much. Masking tape or packing tape will help prevent further damage while you are working on it. It would be good if you could get some kind of reinforcement over the crack to stabilize it. Either some matching veneer or something like thick brown kraft paper or some kind of fabric like muslin would help stabilize it, and you may be able to put it on the inside where it wouldn't be visible? Glue a fabric patch on the inside with hide glue and paint the grain in to make it not stand out? Glue a small veneer patch on the inside? Veneer is thick and idk how much it would show, and how likely it is to really stay put. You need to sand the area you're gluing down to bare wood to get under any finish, and wipe that area down lightly with acetone immediately before glueing to remove the natural oils in the teak. You don't really need to do anything to it finishwise. You could wax it, but it's so delicate I would say the less done the better as you are likely to damage it further. Same goes for oiling, except oil will attract dust so I really wouldn't go that route.
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Sep 23, 2020 02:13
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cheese eats mouse posted:What’s the general consensus on restoring and maintaining teak? It’s for a lamp so dust is a concern and it’s pretty dry and brittle (some cracks/warps have popped up). Oof. The arc itself it cracking across the grain, it's going to be tough. Ideally you'd give it a support on the inside and outside of the strip. Anything I can think of to reinforce it would be pretty drastic. First thing that came to mind was a thin strip of fiberglass epoxied to the arc. Unless it's really high up you'll notice it and it would definitely change the character. You could try removing the arc strip and gluing in a new replacement. If it's hide glue steam will take it out.
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Sep 23, 2020 02:23
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I got this idea watching a restoration/conservation of a split wood panel painting that had a significant bow to the overall shape. This is not based in any experience.
Would this work?
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Sep 23, 2020 02:51
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It’s on the third to the largest hoop at the top and it’s a hanging/ceiling lamp so visibility on the repair is not a no-go. I’d like to just keep it from getting worse. It’s pretty one of a kind and I love it gingerly.
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Sep 23, 2020 02:59
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Mr. Mambold posted:Looks like 1/8" to me, and yeah a drum sander would be ideal, but that's not one of the major must-have tools for everyone. And why not use a planer like God intended? Because like an idiot I forgot that you can send a bit of veneer through a lunchbox planer as long as it's tack-glued to a backing board.
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Sep 23, 2020 03:36
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Unless it’s curly maple, in which case gently caress you, enjoy your exploded wood.
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Sep 23, 2020 03:43
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cheese eats mouse posted:It’s on the third to the largest hoop at the top and it’s a hanging/ceiling lamp so visibility on the repair is not a no-go. Thin CA glue then. It will turn it rock hard and have a gloss to the area but it will keep it from getting worse. Just squirt it on and let it absorb.
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Sep 23, 2020 04:25
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Wasabi the J posted:I got this idea watching a restoration/conservation of a split wood panel painting that had a significant bow to the overall shape. This is not based in any experience.
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Sep 23, 2020 04:28
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JEEVES420 posted:Thin CA glue then. It will turn it rock hard and have a gloss to the area but it will keep it from getting worse. Just squirt it on and let it absorb. What’s does CA mean?
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Sep 23, 2020 13:12
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cheese eats mouse posted:What’s does CA mean? Cyanoacrylate
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Sep 23, 2020 14:13
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Ah ok. I'll repair then teak oil it then. Thanks everyone.
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Sep 23, 2020 16:08
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cheese eats mouse posted:Ah ok. I'll repair then teak oil it then. Thanks everyone. Make sure to get "Thin" version. Thin will absorb into the fibers. Medium or more will absorb a little but will puddle up and form big bumps.
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Sep 23, 2020 16:37
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cheese eats mouse posted:Ah ok. I'll repair then teak oil it then. Thanks everyone. I'd recommend you proceed the way Wasabi the J laid out, because as K-S said, it's standard SOP. Use some sort of curved cauls (you may have to use your imagination if you're tool and woodworking poor), a clamp and a non-contact like waxpaper because even superglue doesn't set up immediately. Let us know how it turns out?
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Sep 23, 2020 16:50
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Just to be clear, CA glue will not repair it. It will only stabilize it in its current state. Oil will not penetrate that area after but oiling the rest of the blades would help prevent cracking in those areas. If you want to repair it then the other way is the way to go.
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Sep 23, 2020 18:26
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Anyone have experience with Wahuda jointers? They offer a tabletop 8 inch with helical cutterhead for a decent price but I can't find much info.
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Sep 23, 2020 18:33
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Yooper posted:Anyone have experience with Wahuda jointers? They offer a tabletop 8 inch with helical cutterhead for a decent price but I can't find much info. I was looking at those several months back, looks an awful lot like they're just selling a rebrand of nearly identical Rikon models under the name of a new Chinese company and being that they're such an unknown I don't know why you'd go with them over the Rikon because there's not a big price difference. That is unless you're like me and you can't get Rikon equipment shipped here cheaply whereas Amazon is happy to ship the Wahuda for free. I never looked any deeper than that as I decided to try and get away without a Jointer and do what I can with jigs.
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Sep 23, 2020 20:43
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Elem7 posted:I was looking at those several months back, looks an awful lot like they're just selling a rebrand of nearly identical Rikon models under the name of a new Chinese company and being that they're such an unknown I don't know why you'd go with them over the Rikon because there's not a big price difference. That is unless you're like me and you can't get Rikon equipment shipped here cheaply whereas Amazon is happy to ship the Wahuda for free. Yup, you're right. Spitting image of the Rikon. I'll go with the Rikon if anything for that price.
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Sep 24, 2020 01:18
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It's all out of the same factory. The Wahuda 8" comes with cast iron tables, the Rikon does not, but the Rikon has a 5 year warranty and you can pretty much guarantee they will be there for it. Wahuda was known as Cutech until a year or two ago, so I don't exactly expect them to be around for their full 2 year warranty anyway. I bought the Wahuda 8" Spiral Head on sale and its fine, the only issue I have is the fence isn't great, but that seems to be one of the weakpoints of benchtops in general. The Wahuda fence is better than the Cutech per the reviews, but I still adjust it whenever I move the fence around. Also I love the phrase "Helical Style" that Rikon uses, since none of these cheap jointers are actually helical. Edit: Lol, they now make a 10" benchtop jointer https://www.wahudatools.com/10in-benchtop-jointer-p/50110cc-whd-early-bird.htm Bondematt fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 02:17
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JEEVES420 posted:Just to be clear, CA glue will not repair it. It will only stabilize it in its current state. Oil will not penetrate that area after but oiling the rest of the blades would help prevent cracking in those areas. If you want to repair it then the other way is the way to go. I live in a NYC apartment with only basic tools and definitely no woodworking experience. Best I can do is approach my luthier friend about taking on/helping me with a weird repair project when I go back home to visit family in KY since he’s the only one I know with any wood shop tools. I do have gorilla glue which I know is water soluble? Or oil it and leave it to someone with more skill 
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Sep 24, 2020 04:45
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Bondematt posted:It's all out of the same factory. The Wahuda 8" comes with cast iron tables, the Rikon does not, but the Rikon has a 5 year warranty and you can pretty much guarantee they will be there for it. Wahuda was known as Cutech until a year or two ago, so I don't exactly expect them to be around for their full 2 year warranty anyway. Cool, thanks dude. Rikon it is. cheese eats mouse posted:I live in a NYC apartment with only basic tools and definitely no woodworking experience. Best I can do is approach my luthier friend about taking on/helping me with a weird repair project when I go back home to visit family in KY since he’s the only one I know with any wood shop tools. A luthier would be probably the most qualified person to make a repair like that out of any woodworking specialty. Gorilla glue, at least the basic one, will foam as it cures. But there are like 90 flavors of Gorilla glue now. If yours is the original it's probably not the right one for this job.
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Sep 24, 2020 12:24
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cheese eats mouse posted:I live in a NYC apartment with only basic tools and definitely no woodworking experience. Best I can do is approach my luthier friend about taking on/helping me with a weird repair project when I go back home to visit family in KY since he’s the only one I know with any wood shop tools. Do not use gorilla glue!!!! It’s fine glue for some stuff but it is basically always the wrong thing for repairs imo. The foam makes a huge mess and makes clamping even harder and usually results in a bad repair. To properly make the repair, ALL the gorilla glue has to scraped out of every nook and cranny so that real glue has something to stick to. This is a repair your luthier friend probably has experience with-the bent parts of guitar bodies occasionally crack similarly. Gorilla Glue, Pledge, and husbands-the bane of furniture restorers everywhere.
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Sep 24, 2020 16:57
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Gorilla Glue, Pledge, and husbands-the bane of furniture restorers everywhere. This reminds me of the time in my mid 20s when I didn't know any better, my wife's front fender came loose and started slapping on a road trip. We pulled into a hardware store and, without asking for any advice or guidance, reattached the bumper to the fender with an entire bottle of the toughest looking epoxy I could find. A year later we had an incident and insurance was paying to replace the entire bumper, the body shop guy called me and was like, "What the gently caress did you do to this car?" I told him the truth and his response was a totally flat, kind of dead inside, "OK." Good god that was ... 17 years ago.
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Sep 24, 2020 17:16
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Yeah just to be 100% clear, Gorilla Glue is a brand. They do make a cyanoacrylate, but I believe it has additives to add flexibility or something. What we want here is a very fluid CA glue, not a gap-filling/thick/viscous CA glue. Any hobby store will have a range of glues and you can get a thin glue from there. This is the one I use: https://smile.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Insta-Cure-Super-Thin/dp/B001NI4JWI/ "bob smith industries" sells several glues in these bottles and they are sometimes branded differently in-store, but the glue labels are easy to spot and they're all the same exact glue. Note that this specific glue works very very quickly, you can get a slower-curing one if you prefer, but it's mostly a tradeoff of thickness vs. cure speed so the really thin ones all need you to work very quickly to clamp (if you're going to clamp) before the stuff dries. You also need quite a lot of it to glue wood because the wood fibers soak up a lot of the glue and you need enough left in the actual break to bind it. I would normally advise someone to test on scrap but in this case you don't have any scrap. Seconding the luthier-friend can probably help suggestion. e. oh yeah. CA glue bond doesn't have to be permanent, if you gently caress it up there's a de-bonder made by bsi: https://smile.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-161H-Debonder/dp/B0166FFC96/ This stuff isn't cheap but it does work, and is handy to have around if you do a lot of CA gluing. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 17:37
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