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oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005


Grimey Drawer

Sup scrap wood table buddy

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CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man




Update on my shelf:

My friends are happy with it, despite the small skew, so I'm going to make some small adjustments and finish it, including adding some adjustable feet to compensate forsaid skew. The shelf is about 40 inches tall with about 1/2 inch of displacement between the top and bottom shelf, but all of the glass bits fit pretty close to perfectly.

I want to add a mea culpa here because I don't want to be the guy who asks the thread for help and ignores it: I 100% appreciate and respect the advice I was given, and it made me wish that I had asked for your thoughts earlier while I was theorycrafting the assembly. Had I gotten that information earlier in the process I would have followed it for sure, and had I not gotten acceptable results from the path I was neck-deep in, I would have gone back and redone it along that path. I more or less just wanted to see how my approach played out, I guess, since I was so close to the end of it. Thank you for taking the time to respond to my post and share your expertise.

e. I'll add a picture once it's in its new home and set up.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.


Knot My President! posted:

Thanks for the info! I was planning on using either a heat-lock:

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Heat-Lock-Veneer-Glue.html

Or this cement:

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Titan-DX-Premium-Contact-Cement.html

Not sure if there will be much glue overhang with either option-- I plan on using a hobby knife or other flat surface to clean up the glue drip in the hole before it gets tacky prior to combining

For trimming the sides of the box, I'm definitely gonna get a bearing router bit if I go the palm router route-- that bit above would be for the 4.6mm speaker relief unless I can find a bearing-style that begins the cutting surface shallower than this (< 11/64")

edit: it looks like the site that has the prebuilt speaker cabinet sells the exact router bit I linked above and recommends it for the veneer-- I think this will be my first course of action and if it ends up being a bit too unwieldy then I'll do the hobby knife route. I'll pick up a bearing-style flush trim router bit for the cabinet sides as well

Use contact cement. And make sure you have plenty of batons to keep the pieces seperated while you stick them together. I used to use a bit of rag in my hand and push it down gradually to avoid any creases or bumps in a wiping motion. Kind of hard to describe but it just makes sure the contact cement binds well. The front and back won't be too hard but the sides are where you might get a bubble in the middle and you want to avoid that.

Knot My President!
Jan 10, 2005




serious gaylord posted:

Use contact cement. And make sure you have plenty of batons to keep the pieces seperated while you stick them together. I used to use a bit of rag in my hand and push it down gradually to avoid any creases or bumps in a wiping motion. Kind of hard to describe but it just makes sure the contact cement binds well. The front and back won't be too hard but the sides are where you might get a bubble in the middle and you want to avoid that.

Thanks for the heads upó I have a quite a few batons and Iím glad theyíll come in handy

Why do you recommend contact versus heat? Any advantages or disadvantages between the two? I used cement last time however I donít have the ventilation this time around for the usual stuff, hence those two I linked

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.


I don't like Iron on veneer for anything apart from Edge banding. Had too many bad experiences with it lifting in places or trapping a crease. I dunno maybe I was just bad at it but I used contact cement for years and it never let me down.

Its also simpler so you're only really worrying about the two surfaces coming into contact with each other and not having to worry about the iron or heat gun.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



I'm fixing a door frame from an old deadbolt well - the new piece of wood is nice and snug in the chiseled hole I made - should I use a screw or something to hold it in while the wood glue dries?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

The general increasing love of athletics is benefiting our young men, and making their lives better and more worth the living.

The Slack Lagoon posted:

I'm fixing a door frame from an old deadbolt well - the new piece of wood is nice and snug in the chiseled hole I made - should I use a screw or something to hold it in while the wood glue dries?

You need to keep pressure on the joint, so if you can't clamp it then a screw or two or some brads will help.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Deteriorata posted:

You need to keep pressure on the joint, so if you can't clamp it then a screw or two or some brads will help.

Thanks, tossed a few screws in. Can I take them out when the glue dries or should I just leave them in?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

The general increasing love of athletics is benefiting our young men, and making their lives better and more worth the living.

The Slack Lagoon posted:

Thanks, tossed a few screws in. Can I take them out when the glue dries or should I just leave them in?

The strength of the joint will be from the glue, so you can pull them out or leave them in as you wish. Leaving them in will probably add some shear stiffness, so that may matter. It probably doesn't make a lot of difference.

OgreNoah
Nov 18, 2003



Elysium posted:

Oh poo poo, now weíre in my wheelhouse.

I made this stupid thing over the weekend, for putting drinks down on the couch when we want to sit back and canít reach the table:





Made out of one scrap piece of plywood. I got real impatient with the stain and finishing so that looks a bit half assed. ďItís fine.Ē

I feel like Red Green would be really loving proud of you.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

Official Forums Path of Exile Expert


OgreNoah posted:

I feel like Red Green would be really loving proud of you.

If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy

Knot My President!
Jan 10, 2005




Does anyone have any good examples of various kinds of finishes on walnut? I'm trying to specifically see a difference between amber and garnet shellac

For my prior speakers, I used Tried & True Danish Oil & Original Finish and I'm wondering how much different using dewaxed amber or garnet shellac as my base prior to danish would look compared to danish all the way through? Reason being is I need to use dewaxed shellac to seal the plywood prior to the pressure-activated veneer and I don't mind buying a bit more shellac if it will add a nice color to the walnut.

Speakers with Tried & True Danish Oil on walnut here:



The closest example I can find online is someone comparing super blonde shellac (right) to garnet shellac on walnut with a Old Masters water-based satin poly top coat (left)



I love the look of the garnet shellac personally but I wish I had a direct comparison

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

Hubris

Fun Shoe

I don't think photos are really going to tell you much of use, unfortunately. What you really want to know is how the wood's going to look in its final installed home, which depends on the wood, the finish you use, and most critically, the lighting. Photos online are going to be taken with a wide variety of different lightings.

Also, as pieces age, they change color. For example, cherry gets darker with age. I don't know how walnut changes, but I assume it does at least a little.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man






Does this one look like it's possibly worth getting, or is it a potato? A jointer is the only thing I'm lacking right now and this is the first one I've seen listed locally.

CommonShore fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Apr 9, 2021

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass


Looks like either a type 13 or 14, so late 1920s. I can't make out if the lateral adjustment lever is there, but if all the parts are there it ought be decent enough.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man




Just Winging It posted:

Looks like either a type 13 or 14, so late 1920s. I can't make out if the lateral adjustment lever is there, but if all the parts are there it ought be decent enough.

I can see the lever in a different picture on the listing. Buddy wants CA$90 for it. I might wait a few days and see if the price goes anywhere.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006



Hair Elf

FWIW it looks nice to me. I paid more than that for my No8, and that was years ago. If it checks out in person, I think it's a good deal.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I don't think photos are really going to tell you much of use, unfortunately. What you really want to know is how the wood's going to look in its final installed home, which depends on the wood, the finish you use, and most critically, the lighting. Photos online are going to be taken with a wide variety of different lightings.

Also, as pieces age, they change color. For example, cherry gets darker with age. I don't know how walnut changes, but I assume it does at least a little.

Walnut darkens too, especially if its in direct sunlight. Also brings out some colours that aren't immediately obvious. I used to pull walnut off the shelf that had gone this purplish grey in places. Was a very interesting effect.

Also the best finish for Walnut is a lacquer. Gloss if you can do it right. Makes the piece just look so expensive.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!


CommonShore posted:

I can see the lever in a different picture on the listing. Buddy wants CA$90 for it. I might wait a few days and see if the price goes anywhere.

In this market that is a good price. (Just gonna start emptyquoting ColdPie)

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.





CommonShore posted:



Does this one look like it's possibly worth getting, or is it a potato? A jointer is the only thing I'm lacking right now and this is the first one I've seen listed locally.

I picked up a #6 at an estate sale a few years back. Grooved sole, handle was broken but gluable. Idk its genealogy, but it's a solid piece of steel. Estate sales are where you can get lucky.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man




I missed out. Oh well.

Yeah I have lines on estate sales. I've started to build up a bit of a network of people who know to call me if an uncle is getting rid of his old tools.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.





Who was crying about dimensional framing lumber and white oak and how far are you from central Arkansas?
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mat/d/mulberry-pine-pine-pine/7300171287.html

https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mat/d/mulberry-planed-red-white-oak-boards/7302626821.html

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008



Hi Thread. Due to moving into successively smaller and smaller places, I havent been able to do much woodworking for quite a while, but I have recently joined a mens shed and now I have access to a whole bunch of good machinery, so I want to get back into it. I have decided on trying my hand at a jewellery box for my partner, and I want it to match a dresser she already has.



Im pretty sure this is mid century modern from Scandinavia. Does anyone know where I could get some plans for a box in roughly the same style?

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008


Knot My President! posted:

Does anyone have any good examples of various kinds of finishes on walnut? I'm trying to specifically see a difference between amber and garnet shellac

For my prior speakers, I used Tried & True Danish Oil & Original Finish and I'm wondering how much different using dewaxed amber or garnet shellac as my base prior to danish would look compared to danish all the way through? Reason being is I need to use dewaxed shellac to seal the plywood prior to the pressure-activated veneer and I don't mind buying a bit more shellac if it will add a nice color to the walnut.

Speakers with Tried & True Danish Oil on walnut here:



The closest example I can find online is someone comparing super blonde shellac (right) to garnet shellac on walnut with a Old Masters water-based satin poly top coat (left)



I love the look of the garnet shellac personally but I wish I had a direct comparison

I have been playing with adding dyes to shellac via denatured alcohol to basically make a toner sealer, which so far seems to go on with no fuss. You can make it with no experienced and easily experiment with it on scraps.

I'll take pics soon.

Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Apr 10, 2021

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

Official Forums Path of Exile Expert


NPR Journalizard posted:

but I have recently joined a mens shed


Thank you for this keyword. No more maker spaces for me

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013



Bloody posted:

Cool I'm definitely giving this a shot, worst case I wreck some cheap lumber and waste some time. It's green lumber that's been in the elements so it's definitely on the wetter side. Should I let it dry before trying to resaw, resaw before drying, or just do whatever is convenient?

trip report i got through a couple feet of board in like half an hour, worked up a nice blister on my thumb, and got pretty far off my working line on the back of the board in the last 4 inches before I stopped. not sure what to do with this leftover lumber now, but this ain't it. It'd be pretty decent for a workbench, I suppose, but idk that I really have the space to do that.

at least my shed-corner shop is clean:

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

I sanded what was left of clear coat off my cheap kitchen table then applied polyurethane. I really should have stopped after 3 coats. Coat 4 looked bad, I tried sanding it off and applying another coat. It didnít help. Now I am 5 coats in the and sick of the project.

Also labeling drying time using an ambient temperature of 77 degrees is complete trash.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 28, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns




Calidus posted:

I sanded what was left of clear coat off my cheap kitchen table then applied polyurethane. I really should have stopped after 3 coats. Coat 4 looked bad, I tried sanding it off and applying another coat. It didnít help. Now I am 5 coats in the and sick of the project.

Also labeling drying time using an ambient temperature of 77 degrees is complete trash.
If you sand the last coat level and then rub it out with 000 steel wool/maroon scotchbrite pad and wax it with clear, it makes a world of difference. Most mediocre finishes can be made excellent with rubbing out.


Knot My President! posted:

Does anyone have any good examples of various kinds of finishes on walnut? I'm trying to specifically see a difference between amber and garnet shellac

For my prior speakers, I used Tried & True Danish Oil & Original Finish and I'm wondering how much different using dewaxed amber or garnet shellac as my base prior to danish would look compared to danish all the way through? Reason being is I need to use dewaxed shellac to seal the plywood prior to the pressure-activated veneer and I don't mind buying a bit more shellac if it will add a nice color to the walnut.

Speakers with Tried & True Danish Oil on walnut here:



The closest example I can find online is someone comparing super blonde shellac (right) to garnet shellac on walnut with a Old Masters water-based satin poly top coat (left)



I love the look of the garnet shellac personally but I wish I had a direct comparison
Personal preference and all, but I much much much prefer walnut with a film finish (shellac or lacquer, preferably) vs an oil finish. With oil it can get really dark and black, but film finishes really bring out the warmer/amber tones and depth and chatoyancy. Modern kiln dried walnut is almost always steamed to help blend the sapwood with the heart and it all goes sort of grey and really benefits from a little bit of dye. W.D. Lockwood's' #98 American Walnut is my go to, but #848 French, light Yellow, and #916 Old World Yellow-Brown are good too depending on what color you want. I use water dye's and I think they would be okay with contact cement but you might want to check with the contact cement manufacturer. I usually put a little bit of yellow in a toner coat of the finish-it really warms it up and helps it look like old faded european walnut as well as blend different boards. I think a garnet/yellowish shellac would do the same thing and like Wasabi the J said, you can tint the shellac with alcohol soluble dyes if you want. Shellac is the easiest finish for DIYers at home IMO. Here is A Post about matching new/old walnut that may or may not help:

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Finish 'Spergin Ahead
I got into the weeds a bit on that walnut and trying to blend the colors and do a bit of sapstaining. I usually do this with toner/shading lacquer later in the finishing process but I've been trying to get better at color matching with water based dyes and decided to do it that way instead. I took a bunch of pictures of the steps for reference and so I guess
The problem:


There's some real warm/tan/orange/red old walnut at the top and the rest is new cool/grey new walnut. It's got a big strip of sapwood in it I'm gonna try and blend a bit better because this is on an antique and for the most part they didn't like sapwood back then (and they had a bunch of 24" wide walnut boards sitting around).

To make these disparate parts match, the new wood needs to warm up and the old wood needs to cool down/grey out , and hopefully they meet in the middle. The sapwood also needs some color, and then when everything is in the same neighborhood, it'll all get a coat of the same color to help tie it together. Hopefully.

I know how to warm up the new, grey walnut- Lockwood's American Walnut dye is a nice amber for warming steamed walnut back up and bringing the warm browns back. Because it needs to match this old, (really pretty red) walnut, I added a tiny bit of Georgian Brown Mahogany which has some strong red undertones.

Greying out the old walnut was trickier. Lockwood's Nut Brown Walnut is a greyish brown, but not grey enough so I added some Silver Grey which always works to cool stuff down. There were still some strong orange undertones and I wanted to kill those some more, so I added a little tiny bit of blue. After a few experiments, this is where I wound up:

Since we are goons here and would rather touch computers than stain and color theory is tricky, I picked some colors out of those dye samples and used them as a transparency in GIMP:

Not perfect, but maybe helps. Dyes act basically like transparencies-they add a transparent layer of color to the existing wood without obscuring the figure of the wood underneath like a pigment based stain. Unfortunately, that also means they can accentuate differences in color between boards, where pigment stains will do a better job of making everything look consistent at the cost of hiding some grain/figure.
First I hit the sapwood with the grey stain:

The brush can leave hard edges so I followed up with a wet rag on the edges to help the stain bleed a little.

Forgot I put blue in there-whoops.


Put some of the American Walnut on top of that to start giving it the warmer tones:

Water based dyes like this don't really have a binder or fixative, but if you let one color dry well and then put another over it, it doesn't lift the first color too much, just don't scrub it or really soak it. (If you screw up, you can really soak it down and scrub it and get alot of the color out. Water based dyes are very forgiving and easy to work with)

Hit the old walnut with the grey stuff. Sapwood has grey stuff + Am. Walnut:


Do all the new walnut with the American Walnut:

Again I lightly wiped/wetted the hard edge between new and old wood.

I thought the sapwood still looked a bit light/yellow, so I hit it again with the grey stuff:

A heat gun helps if it's a humid day and you are super impatient like me!

Now everything has been stained to match its neighbor reasonably well. Wiped on a coat of the american walnut over the whole thing-this always seems to help pull everything together:


This honestly came out a whole lot better than I thought it would. The old wood is a bit redder than the new, but it's much much better than before. The sapwood streak is also still visible, but it looks a lot more like a natural variation in the heartwood than an odd streak of white wood in the middle of a headboard


I think it'll come out fine after a little glaze and toning, but I definitely would have been better off using african mahogany(right) instead of walnut. A coat of Nut Brown Walnut to kill some of the orange/pink in it and a little toner and it's a perfect match for warm walnut (left).

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man






Here's my shelf. I would do better if I did it again but they're pleased, and I'll be rolling in free coffee all summer.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008


I'm not finished playing with things but here's an example of how good the dyes + shellac work.

Birch plywood and birch hardwood face framev


1 cup Zissner shellac, 1 cup alcohol, and like 5 drops of medium brown + Watch Danish Oil finish.


A bit more golden than IRL, and I'm going to probably add some red.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

Official Forums Path of Exile Expert


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSADqs0Lj_Y

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013



This is why I prefer a corded circular saw: it can only chase me a few feet

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man




Ok next project and this time I'll ask questions early instead of when I get stuck:

66 inch by 8ish inch sofa table. I'll be using that same birch ply with sanded edges as on the coffee dripper for the top. I have several options of material for the rest.

Any suggestions for the structure underneath? I was thinking about a few options such as sawhorse-type a-frame legs, or something like a shaker table (or two) with mortised aprons and legs.

Anything that might surprise me or prove challenging in a structure like this?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013



Staked legs

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006



I've been putting off making some flower boxes for a porch that I had promised to make once it got warmer and I finally got started. I haven't had any reason to purchase PT lumber recently and you guys weren't loving kidding about prices. They want a full $37 for a single PT 2"x12"x8'.

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler


PT was the first to be hit. Last summer everyone decided to work on their decks/fences since they were stuck at home staring at their back yards.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

If you sand the last coat level and then rub it out with 000 steel wool/maroon scotchbrite pad and wax it with clear, it makes a world of difference. Most mediocre finishes can be made excellent with rubbing out.

Thanks I will give this a try, the table is back in kitchen right now so that might be a project for next weekend.


On the topic of pressure treated lumber and decks, I want avoid replacing a couple 2"x6"x12' on my deck. Delivery/truck rental would more than double the price of a lumber I need. What is this problem called and recommendations on fixing it?

My current list of ideas:

- just fill if full of epoxy that I have
- find some out door rated wood filler product at a box store
- square up the hole using chisels(maybe use a router?) and make a insert out of scrap and apply wood glue

Example A:

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.





Calidus posted:

Thanks I will give this a try, the table is back in kitchen right now so that might be a project for next weekend.


On the topic of pressure treated lumber and decks, I want avoid replacing a couple 2"x6"x12' on my deck. Delivery/truck rental would more than double the price of a lumber I need. What is this problem called and recommendations on fixing it?

My current list of ideas:

- just fill if full of epoxy that I have
- find some out door rated wood filler product at a box store
- square up the hole using chisels(maybe use a router?) and make a insert out of scrap and apply wood glue

Example A:


Bondo.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Not sure if it even reaches the level of "it's fine wood working" but I spent most my afternoon working my scrap wood work bench complete with old pasta sauce jar full of screws. I still need to make legs for the little section in the corner.

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The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.






Well I bought a cheapo 6" Craftsman benchtop jointer since it's big enough to do all the wood I use. Took my time and set it up exactly per the book, got the stops set perfectly to keep the fence at 90 degrees, plugged it in and made sure it ran, got a little piece of boxwood and jointed one edge down 1/32, then put that edge up against the fence, jointed the next face, got the square out, and it's perfectly flat and the corner is perfectly 90 degrees. Yay..

I even got it set up to spew all the sawdust into my shop-vac and that worked perfectly also.

Grabbed one of my larger pieces of boxwood to start jointing the stuff that I am actually going to use to cut pieces from for my work... got everything set up, hit the power switch.. and nothing. /sigh..

So damned frustrating.. now I have to wait until they are open tomorrow and call their customer service line and I'm sure they'll want me to send it back for repair (or take it back to Lowes).. after all that time getting it set up just right. It's probably something incredibly stupid like the power switch too. I pulled the switch and made sure no connections came loose, but to get to anything else is a major disassembly.

Of course it will take almost as much time to take it all back apart to fit it back into the box to return it as it took to set up.

Edit: I got my wood for my ship.

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