|
Sup scrap wood table buddy  
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 17:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 10, 2021 12:23 |
|
|
Update on my shelf: My friends are happy with it, despite the small skew, so I'm going to make some small adjustments and finish it, including adding some adjustable feet to compensate forsaid skew. The shelf is about 40 inches tall with about 1/2 inch of displacement between the top and bottom shelf, but all of the glass bits fit pretty close to perfectly. I want to add a mea culpa here because I don't want to be the guy who asks the thread for help and ignores it: I 100% appreciate and respect the advice I was given, and it made me wish that I had asked for your thoughts earlier while I was theorycrafting the assembly. Had I gotten that information earlier in the process I would have followed it for sure, and had I not gotten acceptable results from the path I was neck-deep in, I would have gone back and redone it along that path. I more or less just wanted to see how my approach played out, I guess, since I was so close to the end of it. Thank you for taking the time to respond to my post and share your expertise. e. I'll add a picture once it's in its new home and set up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 17:51
|
|
|
Knot My President! posted:Thanks for the info! I was planning on using either a heat-lock: Use contact cement. And make sure you have plenty of batons to keep the pieces seperated while you stick them together. I used to use a bit of rag in my hand and push it down gradually to avoid any creases or bumps in a wiping motion. Kind of hard to describe but it just makes sure the contact cement binds well. The front and back won't be too hard but the sides are where you might get a bubble in the middle and you want to avoid that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 18:37
|
|
|
serious gaylord posted:Use contact cement. And make sure you have plenty of batons to keep the pieces seperated while you stick them together. I used to use a bit of rag in my hand and push it down gradually to avoid any creases or bumps in a wiping motion. Kind of hard to describe but it just makes sure the contact cement binds well. The front and back won't be too hard but the sides are where you might get a bubble in the middle and you want to avoid that. Thanks for the heads up— I have a quite a few batons and I’m glad they’ll come in handy  Why do you recommend contact versus heat? Any advantages or disadvantages between the two? I used cement last time however I don’t have the ventilation this time around for the usual stuff, hence those two I linked
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 19:54
|
|
|
I don't like Iron on veneer for anything apart from Edge banding. Had too many bad experiences with it lifting in places or trapping a crease. I dunno maybe I was just bad at it but I used contact cement for years and it never let me down. Its also simpler so you're only really worrying about the two surfaces coming into contact with each other and not having to worry about the iron or heat gun.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 20:02
|
|
|
I'm fixing a door frame from an old deadbolt well - the new piece of wood is nice and snug in the chiseled hole I made - should I use a screw or something to hold it in while the wood glue dries?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 22:08
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:I'm fixing a door frame from an old deadbolt well - the new piece of wood is nice and snug in the chiseled hole I made - should I use a screw or something to hold it in while the wood glue dries? You need to keep pressure on the joint, so if you can't clamp it then a screw or two or some brads will help.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 22:10
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:You need to keep pressure on the joint, so if you can't clamp it then a screw or two or some brads will help. Thanks, tossed a few screws in. Can I take them out when the glue dries or should I just leave them in?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 22:56
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:Thanks, tossed a few screws in. Can I take them out when the glue dries or should I just leave them in? The strength of the joint will be from the glue, so you can pull them out or leave them in as you wish. Leaving them in will probably add some shear stiffness, so that may matter. It probably doesn't make a lot of difference.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 22:59
|
|
|
Elysium posted:Oh poo poo, now we’re in my wheelhouse. I feel like Red Green would be really loving proud of you.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 13:26
|
|
|
OgreNoah posted:I feel like Red Green would be really loving proud of you. If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 13:31
|
|
|
Does anyone have any good examples of various kinds of finishes on walnut? I'm trying to specifically see a difference between amber and garnet shellac For my prior speakers, I used Tried & True Danish Oil & Original Finish and I'm wondering how much different using dewaxed amber or garnet shellac as my base prior to danish would look compared to danish all the way through? Reason being is I need to use dewaxed shellac to seal the plywood prior to the pressure-activated veneer and I don't mind buying a bit more shellac if it will add a nice color to the walnut. Speakers with Tried & True Danish Oil on walnut here:  The closest example I can find online is someone comparing super blonde shellac (right) to garnet shellac on walnut with a Old Masters water-based satin poly top coat (left)  I love the look of the garnet shellac personally but I wish I had a direct comparison 
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 17:29
|
|
|
I don't think photos are really going to tell you much of use, unfortunately. What you really want to know is how the wood's going to look in its final installed home, which depends on the wood, the finish you use, and most critically, the lighting. Photos online are going to be taken with a wide variety of different lightings. Also, as pieces age, they change color. For example, cherry gets darker with age. I don't know how walnut changes, but I assume it does at least a little.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 17:34
|
|
|
 Does this one look like it's possibly worth getting, or is it a potato? A jointer is the only thing I'm lacking right now and this is the first one I've seen listed locally. CommonShore fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Apr 9, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 18:24
|
|
|
Looks like either a type 13 or 14, so late 1920s. I can't make out if the lateral adjustment lever is there, but if all the parts are there it ought be decent enough.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 18:37
|
|
|
Just Winging It posted:Looks like either a type 13 or 14, so late 1920s. I can't make out if the lateral adjustment lever is there, but if all the parts are there it ought be decent enough. I can see the lever in a different picture on the listing. Buddy wants CA$90 for it. I might wait a few days and see if the price goes anywhere.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 18:40
|
|
|
FWIW it looks nice to me. I paid more than that for my No8, and that was years ago. If it checks out in person, I think it's a good deal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 18:56
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't think photos are really going to tell you much of use, unfortunately. What you really want to know is how the wood's going to look in its final installed home, which depends on the wood, the finish you use, and most critically, the lighting. Photos online are going to be taken with a wide variety of different lightings. Walnut darkens too, especially if its in direct sunlight. Also brings out some colours that aren't immediately obvious. I used to pull walnut off the shelf that had gone this purplish grey in places. Was a very interesting effect. Also the best finish for Walnut is a lacquer. Gloss if you can do it right. Makes the piece just look so expensive.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 20:06
|
|
|
CommonShore posted:I can see the lever in a different picture on the listing. Buddy wants CA$90 for it. I might wait a few days and see if the price goes anywhere. In this market that is a good price. (Just gonna start emptyquoting ColdPie)
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 01:15
|
|
|
CommonShore posted:
I picked up a #6 at an estate sale a few years back. Grooved sole, handle was broken but gluable. Idk its genealogy, but it's a solid piece of steel. Estate sales are where you can get lucky.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 01:40
|
|
|
I missed out. Oh well. Yeah I have lines on estate sales. I've started to build up a bit of a network of people who know to call me if an uncle is getting rid of his old tools.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 02:10
|
|
|
Who was crying about dimensional framing lumber and white oak and how far are you from central Arkansas? https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mat/d/mulberry-pine-pine-pine/7300171287.html https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mat/d/mulberry-planed-red-white-oak-boards/7302626821.html
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 02:56
|
|
|
Hi Thread. Due to moving into successively smaller and smaller places, I havent been able to do much woodworking for quite a while, but I have recently joined a mens shed and now I have access to a whole bunch of good machinery, so I want to get back into it. I have decided on trying my hand at a jewellery box for my partner, and I want it to match a dresser she already has.  Im pretty sure this is mid century modern from Scandinavia. Does anyone know where I could get some plans for a box in roughly the same style?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 04:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 10, 2021 12:23 |
|
|
Knot My President! posted:Does anyone have any good examples of various kinds of finishes on walnut? I'm trying to specifically see a difference between amber and garnet shellac I have been playing with adding dyes to shellac via denatured alcohol to basically make a toner sealer, which so far seems to go on with no fuss. You can make it with no experienced and easily experiment with it on scraps. I'll take pics soon. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Apr 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 04:43
|
|
