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oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005


Grimey Drawer

Sup scrap wood table buddy

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CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man




Update on my shelf:

My friends are happy with it, despite the small skew, so I'm going to make some small adjustments and finish it, including adding some adjustable feet to compensate forsaid skew. The shelf is about 40 inches tall with about 1/2 inch of displacement between the top and bottom shelf, but all of the glass bits fit pretty close to perfectly.

I want to add a mea culpa here because I don't want to be the guy who asks the thread for help and ignores it: I 100% appreciate and respect the advice I was given, and it made me wish that I had asked for your thoughts earlier while I was theorycrafting the assembly. Had I gotten that information earlier in the process I would have followed it for sure, and had I not gotten acceptable results from the path I was neck-deep in, I would have gone back and redone it along that path. I more or less just wanted to see how my approach played out, I guess, since I was so close to the end of it. Thank you for taking the time to respond to my post and share your expertise.

e. I'll add a picture once it's in its new home and set up.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.


Knot My President! posted:

Thanks for the info! I was planning on using either a heat-lock:

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Heat-Lock-Veneer-Glue.html

Or this cement:

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Titan-DX-Premium-Contact-Cement.html

Not sure if there will be much glue overhang with either option-- I plan on using a hobby knife or other flat surface to clean up the glue drip in the hole before it gets tacky prior to combining

For trimming the sides of the box, I'm definitely gonna get a bearing router bit if I go the palm router route-- that bit above would be for the 4.6mm speaker relief unless I can find a bearing-style that begins the cutting surface shallower than this (< 11/64")

edit: it looks like the site that has the prebuilt speaker cabinet sells the exact router bit I linked above and recommends it for the veneer-- I think this will be my first course of action and if it ends up being a bit too unwieldy then I'll do the hobby knife route. I'll pick up a bearing-style flush trim router bit for the cabinet sides as well

Use contact cement. And make sure you have plenty of batons to keep the pieces seperated while you stick them together. I used to use a bit of rag in my hand and push it down gradually to avoid any creases or bumps in a wiping motion. Kind of hard to describe but it just makes sure the contact cement binds well. The front and back won't be too hard but the sides are where you might get a bubble in the middle and you want to avoid that.

Knot My President!
Jan 10, 2005




serious gaylord posted:

Use contact cement. And make sure you have plenty of batons to keep the pieces seperated while you stick them together. I used to use a bit of rag in my hand and push it down gradually to avoid any creases or bumps in a wiping motion. Kind of hard to describe but it just makes sure the contact cement binds well. The front and back won't be too hard but the sides are where you might get a bubble in the middle and you want to avoid that.

Thanks for the heads up I have a quite a few batons and Im glad theyll come in handy

Why do you recommend contact versus heat? Any advantages or disadvantages between the two? I used cement last time however I dont have the ventilation this time around for the usual stuff, hence those two I linked

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.


I don't like Iron on veneer for anything apart from Edge banding. Had too many bad experiences with it lifting in places or trapping a crease. I dunno maybe I was just bad at it but I used contact cement for years and it never let me down.

Its also simpler so you're only really worrying about the two surfaces coming into contact with each other and not having to worry about the iron or heat gun.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



I'm fixing a door frame from an old deadbolt well - the new piece of wood is nice and snug in the chiseled hole I made - should I use a screw or something to hold it in while the wood glue dries?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

The general increasing love of athletics is benefiting our young men, and making their lives better and more worth the living.

The Slack Lagoon posted:

I'm fixing a door frame from an old deadbolt well - the new piece of wood is nice and snug in the chiseled hole I made - should I use a screw or something to hold it in while the wood glue dries?

You need to keep pressure on the joint, so if you can't clamp it then a screw or two or some brads will help.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Deteriorata posted:

You need to keep pressure on the joint, so if you can't clamp it then a screw or two or some brads will help.

Thanks, tossed a few screws in. Can I take them out when the glue dries or should I just leave them in?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

The general increasing love of athletics is benefiting our young men, and making their lives better and more worth the living.

The Slack Lagoon posted:

Thanks, tossed a few screws in. Can I take them out when the glue dries or should I just leave them in?

The strength of the joint will be from the glue, so you can pull them out or leave them in as you wish. Leaving them in will probably add some shear stiffness, so that may matter. It probably doesn't make a lot of difference.

OgreNoah
Nov 18, 2003



Elysium posted:

Oh poo poo, now were in my wheelhouse.

I made this stupid thing over the weekend, for putting drinks down on the couch when we want to sit back and cant reach the table:





Made out of one scrap piece of plywood. I got real impatient with the stain and finishing so that looks a bit half assed. Its fine.

I feel like Red Green would be really loving proud of you.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

Official Forums Path of Exile Expert


OgreNoah posted:

I feel like Red Green would be really loving proud of you.

If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy

Knot My President!
Jan 10, 2005




Does anyone have any good examples of various kinds of finishes on walnut? I'm trying to specifically see a difference between amber and garnet shellac

For my prior speakers, I used Tried & True Danish Oil & Original Finish and I'm wondering how much different using dewaxed amber or garnet shellac as my base prior to danish would look compared to danish all the way through? Reason being is I need to use dewaxed shellac to seal the plywood prior to the pressure-activated veneer and I don't mind buying a bit more shellac if it will add a nice color to the walnut.

Speakers with Tried & True Danish Oil on walnut here:



The closest example I can find online is someone comparing super blonde shellac (right) to garnet shellac on walnut with a Old Masters water-based satin poly top coat (left)



I love the look of the garnet shellac personally but I wish I had a direct comparison

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

Hubris

Fun Shoe

I don't think photos are really going to tell you much of use, unfortunately. What you really want to know is how the wood's going to look in its final installed home, which depends on the wood, the finish you use, and most critically, the lighting. Photos online are going to be taken with a wide variety of different lightings.

Also, as pieces age, they change color. For example, cherry gets darker with age. I don't know how walnut changes, but I assume it does at least a little.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man






Does this one look like it's possibly worth getting, or is it a potato? A jointer is the only thing I'm lacking right now and this is the first one I've seen listed locally.

CommonShore fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Apr 9, 2021

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass


Looks like either a type 13 or 14, so late 1920s. I can't make out if the lateral adjustment lever is there, but if all the parts are there it ought be decent enough.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man




Just Winging It posted:

Looks like either a type 13 or 14, so late 1920s. I can't make out if the lateral adjustment lever is there, but if all the parts are there it ought be decent enough.

I can see the lever in a different picture on the listing. Buddy wants CA$90 for it. I might wait a few days and see if the price goes anywhere.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006



Hair Elf

FWIW it looks nice to me. I paid more than that for my No8, and that was years ago. If it checks out in person, I think it's a good deal.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I don't think photos are really going to tell you much of use, unfortunately. What you really want to know is how the wood's going to look in its final installed home, which depends on the wood, the finish you use, and most critically, the lighting. Photos online are going to be taken with a wide variety of different lightings.

Also, as pieces age, they change color. For example, cherry gets darker with age. I don't know how walnut changes, but I assume it does at least a little.

Walnut darkens too, especially if its in direct sunlight. Also brings out some colours that aren't immediately obvious. I used to pull walnut off the shelf that had gone this purplish grey in places. Was a very interesting effect.

Also the best finish for Walnut is a lacquer. Gloss if you can do it right. Makes the piece just look so expensive.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!


CommonShore posted:

I can see the lever in a different picture on the listing. Buddy wants CA$90 for it. I might wait a few days and see if the price goes anywhere.

In this market that is a good price. (Just gonna start emptyquoting ColdPie)

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.





CommonShore posted:



Does this one look like it's possibly worth getting, or is it a potato? A jointer is the only thing I'm lacking right now and this is the first one I've seen listed locally.

I picked up a #6 at an estate sale a few years back. Grooved sole, handle was broken but gluable. Idk its genealogy, but it's a solid piece of steel. Estate sales are where you can get lucky.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man




I missed out. Oh well.

Yeah I have lines on estate sales. I've started to build up a bit of a network of people who know to call me if an uncle is getting rid of his old tools.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.





Who was crying about dimensional framing lumber and white oak and how far are you from central Arkansas?
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mat/d/mulberry-pine-pine-pine/7300171287.html

https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mat/d/mulberry-planed-red-white-oak-boards/7302626821.html

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008



Hi Thread. Due to moving into successively smaller and smaller places, I havent been able to do much woodworking for quite a while, but I have recently joined a mens shed and now I have access to a whole bunch of good machinery, so I want to get back into it. I have decided on trying my hand at a jewellery box for my partner, and I want it to match a dresser she already has.



Im pretty sure this is mid century modern from Scandinavia. Does anyone know where I could get some plans for a box in roughly the same style?

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Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008


Knot My President! posted:

Does anyone have any good examples of various kinds of finishes on walnut? I'm trying to specifically see a difference between amber and garnet shellac

For my prior speakers, I used Tried & True Danish Oil & Original Finish and I'm wondering how much different using dewaxed amber or garnet shellac as my base prior to danish would look compared to danish all the way through? Reason being is I need to use dewaxed shellac to seal the plywood prior to the pressure-activated veneer and I don't mind buying a bit more shellac if it will add a nice color to the walnut.

Speakers with Tried & True Danish Oil on walnut here:



The closest example I can find online is someone comparing super blonde shellac (right) to garnet shellac on walnut with a Old Masters water-based satin poly top coat (left)



I love the look of the garnet shellac personally but I wish I had a direct comparison

I have been playing with adding dyes to shellac via denatured alcohol to basically make a toner sealer, which so far seems to go on with no fuss. You can make it with no experienced and easily experiment with it on scraps.

I'll take pics soon.

Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Apr 10, 2021

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