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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Finished shaping the handle last night.





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Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy
Nice axe

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

FWIW - the ryoba brand I see recommended a lot, Suizan, sells a folding ryoba. Looks neat.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075L4P4FN

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting

tracecomplete posted:

FWIW - the ryoba brand I see recommended a lot, Suizan, sells a folding ryoba. Looks neat.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075L4P4FN

They also sell a folding dozuki, which as far as I can tell is the exact same handle but with a different connector included for each. Notably, the blades used for the folding saws use a different connection than the blades of the non-folding saws, and those blades intended for the folding saws cost 10-20% more than the non-folding type.

In the case that price is not really a factor, but space is absolutely a factor and you want everything to be as collapsible as possible, I would opt for the Kakuri flagship series which has a variety of handles and blades that can be swapped around however you see fit, and can be quickly changed by lifting a lever on the back of the blade to release it. The handles are more expensive than Suizan's, but the blades are about the same. They do not offer a double sided blade for this type of handle, but if the ability to conveniently pack it all up in a small kit is the priority, this is an option. None of the blades use a spine either, which can be good or bad depending on your purposes but it's good information if anyone cares about this enough to consider it https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Woodworking-Cutting-Trimming-40361/dp/B08SJ7F671

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

His Divine Shadow posted:

Finished shaping the handle last night.







That is really cool. What is the wood?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
The traditional wood here for axes, Birch. The design of the head with the long sockets is like that because they where designed to work with birch handles, which are not as strong. Birch is the only real commonly available domestic hardwood historically speaking.

With a collared axe design like this though, it's strong enough and has advantages over hickory, much less vibration in your hands and hickory tends to become brittle in real cold temperatures.

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 13:47 on May 6, 2021

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


lmao my lumber autosearch for craigslist is getting dumber and dumber.

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/for/d/2x6x8s-pine/7317429591.html

lovely used warped 2x6ers with nails in them going for $8 a pop. Used to be people begging for you to come take stuff away like this for free a couple months ago.



e: also love the thread title :peanut:

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I swear I could build a shed out of red oak for the same price as pine right now (ignoring that sheet goods are outrageous too)

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



His Divine Shadow posted:

Finished shaping the handle last night.







Nice. In New York, you'd have a vanity license plate like Axeman.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Have the opportunity to buy some air dried rough sawn cherry at 3.30/bd ft. Good deal?

Little gun shy about it being air dried since my last Craigslist wood purchase ended up being full of bug holes.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


NomNomNom posted:

Have the opportunity to buy some air dried rough sawn cherry at 3.30/bd ft. Good deal?

Little gun shy about it being air dried since my last Craigslist wood purchase ended up being full of bug holes.

Powderpost beetles mostly don't get in cherry heartwood, but they will get in the sapwood. That's a good price if it's decent looking stuff.

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

NomNomNom posted:

Have the opportunity to buy some air dried rough sawn cherry at 3.30/bd ft. Good deal?

Little gun shy about it being air dried since my last Craigslist wood purchase ended up being full of bug holes.

Thats cheaper than the red oak I can buy here, which is usually the cheapest.

Numinous
May 20, 2001

College Slice
I'm building shop cabinets out of birch ply and red oak for the drawer fronts and looking for an easy to apply, fast drying, durable finish.

I am considering TotalBoat Halcyon. Anyone have experience?

I'm more concerned with durability and ease of application than cost if anyone has recommendations.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Numinous posted:

I'm building shop cabinets out of birch ply and red oak for the drawer fronts and looking for an easy to apply, fast drying, durable finish.

I am considering TotalBoat Halcyon. Anyone have experience?

I'm more concerned with durability and ease of application than cost if anyone has recommendations.

If you are set up to spray, it doesn't get better than pre-cat lacquer for 'easy, fast, durable.' Varnish and 'fast' don't usually go together in my mind, but that stuff seems much faster drying than traditional oil based varnish. Reading the TDS "Depending on temperature and environmental conditions, you have only 45-90 seconds to maintain a workable edge, so it is recommended that you work diligently" seems like it might be a pain? It says it is a water based poly that I guess has something in it to make it dry super fast.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

The house renovation nears completion and I almost have a shop space to get rolling with. The basement of the old house was unusable for woodfuckery (though I did try) due to low ceilings and massive dust and me not wanting to really get into hand tools, so I'm excited to get back to it. I grew up doing low-key carpentry type stuff with my dad and I've done some of the house renovation along the way, but I want to get into Actual Woodworking (tm) and have been idly performing retail therapy over the last ~10 months while I waited for the renovation to get to a point where I get to do stuff in a space I actually fit into. So I've got some modestly priced toys to play with and some ideas for what to do. I am a videographer for the day job so I'm excited to figure out how to apply some of that to this new hobby, too.

Also, dog.



Three 120V circuits, with two of them intended for power tools (alternating on the right wall with two on the left wall as well, plus switches for hard power cutoffs) and one for utility stuff (the back wall, most of the ceiling outlets). Two 240V in the garage for future expansion, too. Rough layout is going to be the tablesaw around the midpoint of the shop with an outfeed/assembly table behind it; plans get hazy from there. Dimensions are about 22' x 12', and the oil shed to the left of the garage runs the entire length of the house, so it's roughly 33' x 5'; that'll be for storage, as it's basically empty save for an oil tank at the waaaay back of it. I've had a 120V and a 240V run to there for future dust collection (and, y'know, lights--lights are cool) and I should be able to, eventually, vent to an outside collection bin. But that's pretty far down the road.

Getting started on shop furniture this weekend. Knock together some boxes, annoy the neighbors with power tools. Good times. It's super nice finally being able to do stuff.

My local Home Depot won't cut 3/4" MDF though, so I gotta figure out a way to get a full sheet (a few, really) home for a tabletop...

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 6, 2021

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


NomNomNom posted:

Have the opportunity to buy some air dried rough sawn cherry at 3.30/bd ft. Good deal?

Little gun shy about it being air dried since my last Craigslist wood purchase ended up being full of bug holes.

If it were me I would jump on it, bugs or no if you could store it outside the house covered somewhere.

I definitely have some beetles in the cherry I bought but they just live in the bark / not in the wood and I've had it just stored in the concrete tub basement / pretty well covered with some DME etc.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


tracecomplete posted:

The house renovation nears completion and I almost have a shop space to get rolling with. The basement of the old house was unusable for woodfuckery (though I did try) due to low ceilings and massive dust and me not wanting to really get into hand tools, so I'm excited to get back to it. I grew up doing low-key carpentry type stuff with my dad and I've done some of the house renovation along the way, but I want to get into Actual Woodworking (tm) and have been idly performing retail therapy over the last ~10 months while I waited for the renovation to get to a point where I get to do stuff in a space I actually fit into. So I've got some modestly priced toys to play with and some ideas for what to do. I am a videographer for the day job so I'm excited to figure out how to apply some of that to this new hobby, too.

Also, dog.



Three 120V circuits, with two of them intended for power tools (alternating on the right wall with two on the left wall as well, plus switches for hard power cutoffs) and one for utility stuff (the back wall, most of the ceiling outlets). Two 240V in the garage for future expansion, too. Rough layout is going to be the tablesaw around the midpoint of the shop with an outfeed/assembly table behind it; plans get hazy from there. Dimensions are about 22' x 12', and the oil shed to the left of the garage runs the entire length of the house, so it's roughly 33' x 5'; that'll be for storage, as it's basically empty save for an oil tank at the waaaay back of it. I've had a 120V and a 240V run to there for future dust collection (and, y'know, lights--lights are cool) and I should be able to, eventually, vent to an outside collection bin. But that's pretty far down the road.

Getting started on shop furniture this weekend. Knock together some boxes, annoy the neighbors with power tools. Good times. It's super nice finally being able to do stuff.

My local Home Depot won't cut 3/4" MDF though, so I gotta figure out a way to get a full sheet (a few, really) home for a tabletop...

Rent a truck from the same HD. Or if you have a vehicle that can accommodate a trailer hitch a cheap 4x8 or 5x10 trailer off of craigslist are great for HD lumber runs etc if you're like me and don't have a truck.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

That Works posted:

Rent a truck from the same HD. Or if you have a vehicle that can accommodate a trailer hitch a cheap 4x8 or 5x10 trailer off of craigslist are great for HD lumber runs etc if you're like me and don't have a truck.

I haven't driven a truck in a decade. I am probably just going to hilariously overbuy sheet goods and tell myself I'm amortizing out the delivery costs.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


tracecomplete posted:

I haven't driven a truck in a decade. I am probably just going to hilariously overbuy sheet goods and tell myself I'm amortizing out the delivery costs.

During the beginning of covid we absolutely did that here and I justified it by buying about five or six extra sheets of plywood along with a bunch of 2x4s etc at the time. These were in pre-panic prices so now I'm really glad I did.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Yeah, I think I have talked myself into MDF for shop furniture for now. I like the painted look and I really like that it's only ("only") $40 a sheet. Plywood and dimensional lumber when it makes the most sense, MDF for the rest. If I don't like it later, rip it out and redo it.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
I'm under contract on a house so my shop is going from a corner of a two car garage to half or more of a basement. Previous owner did a lot of woodworking down there so here's to hoping losing my 10' garage ceilings won't make me lose my mind.

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

GEMorris posted:

I'm under contract on a house so my shop is going from a corner of a two car garage to half or more of a basement. Previous owner did a lot of woodworking down there so here's to hoping losing my 10' garage ceilings won't make me lose my mind.

Same but the exact opposite. Going from half a basement to part of an attached garage. It is a big garage, though.

Also less space to fill up with clutter. Half my current workspace is taken up by stuff that's going directly to the dump.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

GEMorris posted:

I'm under contract on a house so my shop is going from a corner of a two car garage to half or more of a basement. Previous owner did a lot of woodworking down there so here's to hoping losing my 10' garage ceilings won't make me lose my mind.

I managed okay with about 6.5' ceilings, but I would still try to put a board through the floor above every once in a while. Even just an extra 6-12" would have made all the difference in it. So if you have a decent ceiling height you'll bump it a few times, but it's definitely workable.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

This could go in this thread or the ADHD thread.

I'm really bad about de-tensioning my bandsaw* and I also wanted task lighting on the saw. I combined the problems a few weeks ago and it's been kind of a perfect solution.




Just some 24v led strip and a bonus loc-line flexy light (3d printed base and lamp)


And the ridiculous idea that makes it solve my de-tensioning problem. The light turns on when the tension lever is down, so the only way to turn it off is to de-tension. Really hard to miss the giant glowing bandsaw when I walk out of the shop.







*there are lots of arguments about if it's necessary but regardless of what it does to blades or tension springs, it's pretty unarguably bad for the tires. especially when I've generally got a 3/4" blade on there with as much tension as the saw can provide

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I bought the wood.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

NomNomNom posted:

I bought the wood.



You made the right choice. Maybe think about putting some bars on that window:

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

cherry prices here haven't changed since at least last summer

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


My buddy who builds outdoor bars for a living just told me that Burma stopped all exports so not much in the way of teak coming over indefinitely.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
People really are going to start using red oak for construction lumber, an 8' 2x4 at $10 is $2.85/bd ft

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


This was a neat podcast about the softwood lumber market etc. It’s kind of financial and he mostly just deals with Canadian lumber but he does explain a good bit of what’s going on in the lumber market and thinks at least somewhat higher prices are basically here to stay and this was a needed, if abrupt, market correction. It’s probably gone too far, but the floor on lumber prices is likely to be substantially higher for the foreseeable future. We built too many houses pre-2008 but haven’t been building enough houses for the past decade, and now we’re starting to build the right amount of houses again and until someone starts building more sawmills in 5 years (which will be slow because sawmill operators got burned hard in 2008), lumber prices are going to be higher. https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/why-the-price-of-lumber-has-soared-day-after-day-after-day/id1056200096?i=1000518629853

Almost nothing he talks about applies to the hardwood world, which as far as I can tell is still 200 lumber yards calling 200 mills and very few middlemen or traders. ‘Lumber’ is a traded commodity, whereas with hardwood lumber, grade and species is everything and there’s not really a bulk hardwood lumber price for the most part.

That Works posted:

My buddy who builds outdoor bars for a living just told me that Burma stopped all exports so not much in the way of teak coming over indefinitely.
There wasn’t much coming in anyway. Even plantation grown stuff (and there’s plenty of that growing) has been $20/ft for years. Most of those SE Asian teak growing countries (India, Malaysia, Indonesia etc) want to add the value in country and have really restrictive export rules for teak lumber, but not finished teak goods like patio furniture which is why all the teak patio furniture in the universe is made there. I think Burma/Myanmar was one of few places that didn’t make exporting teak lumber really difficult.m


E:

NomNomNom posted:

People really are going to start using red oak for construction lumber, an 8' 2x4 at $10 is $2.85/bd ft
I want to watch the look on a farmer’s face when they try nailgunning an oak 2x4, lol

E2: the guy kind of knocks SYP as being heavy and hard and wet vs. Canadian spruce and all of that is true x3 for most hardwoods. We use softwoods to build houses not just because there are a lot of them and they grow relatively fast and tall and straight, but also because by and large they have really exceptional strength and stiffness values per pound vs any hardwoods. I think SYP is stiffer pound per pound than steel or something, idk.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:06 on May 7, 2021

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Douglas Fir is $2.18 a board foot at my Home Depot.

How are hardwoods doing? I haven't gone by my local place in months, but it didn't seem up by much then.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Double post but whatever, I learned a new thing today.

My curved moulding adventures I posted about a while ago were successful, but now I've got to put it together and it turns out straight miters don't work then joining curved parts:


The right way to do this is a curved miter that its called a hunting miter for whatever reason. It's a little tricky to layout, and I don't think I could have done it without a full scale mockup. I traced my pattern pieces and drew all the details from the moldings on:


Where those elements cross each other is where the miter line has to go, so I found a curve that hits all those points:


I had made plywood patterns to flush trim route my parts from, so I used those to lay everything out on and that worked really well:

Good fit and the lines line up:


Because I already had the pattern boards and could index off the old screw holes, alignment was really easy and I just buzzed the ends off on the router table:


That'll do, especially for painted stuff:


I'm usually lazy and don't bother making patterns and flush trim routing off that to have interchangeable parts, but it's something I should do more often. I'm usually making one-offs so it doesn't seem worth it, but it really made this a whole lot easier and I could make the same headboard again in no time, not to mention having a trial run on the fit of the parts. All in all this (admittedly fairly simple) curved molding experience has been much much easier than I thought it would be.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Bondematt posted:

Douglas Fir is $2.18 a board foot at my Home Depot.

How are hardwoods doing? I haven't gone by my local place in months, but it didn't seem up by much then.

They've gone up a bit, but not a whole lot. Log prices haven't really moved at all which is even more interesting.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Double post but whatever, I learned a new thing today.

My curved moulding adventures I posted about a while ago were successful, but now I've got to put it together and it turns out straight miters don't work then joining curved parts:


The right way to do this is a curved miter that its called a hunting miter for whatever reason. It's a little tricky to layout, and I don't think I could have done it without a full scale mockup. I traced my pattern pieces and drew all the details from the moldings on:


Where those elements cross each other is where the miter line has to go, so I found a curve that hits all those points:


I had made plywood patterns to flush trim route my parts from, so I used those to lay everything out on and that worked really well:

Good fit and the lines line up:


Because I already had the pattern boards and could index off the old screw holes, alignment was really easy and I just buzzed the ends off on the router table:


That'll do, especially for painted stuff:


I'm usually lazy and don't bother making patterns and flush trim routing off that to have interchangeable parts, but it's something I should do more often. I'm usually making one-offs so it doesn't seem worth it, but it really made this a whole lot easier and I could make the same headboard again in no time, not to mention having a trial run on the fit of the parts. All in all this (admittedly fairly simple) curved molding experience has been much much easier than I thought it would be.

This is absolutely fascinating.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


serious gaylord posted:

This is absolutely fascinating.

Yeah it was pretty neat! I remembered reading that curved mouldings had to have curved miters in some old book, but I found some guide online that helped a lot because I don’t think I would have figured it out on my own. I guess the problem with straight miters is that because they are cutting across different curves at different angles, the miters are different lengths, whereas the curve makes sure the miter overall-and the different details within-are the same length on both pieces.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Double post but whatever, I learned a new thing today.

My curved moulding adventures I posted about a while ago were successful, but now I've got to put it together and it turns out straight miters don't work then joining curved parts:


The right way to do this is a curved miter that its called a hunting miter for whatever reason. It's a little tricky to layout, and I don't think I could have done it without a full scale mockup. I traced my pattern pieces and drew all the details from the moldings on:


Where those elements cross each other is where the miter line has to go, so I found a curve that hits all those points:


I had made plywood patterns to flush trim route my parts from, so I used those to lay everything out on and that worked really well:

Good fit and the lines line up:


Because I already had the pattern boards and could index off the old screw holes, alignment was really easy and I just buzzed the ends off on the router table:


That'll do, especially for painted stuff:


I'm usually lazy and don't bother making patterns and flush trim routing off that to have interchangeable parts, but it's something I should do more often. I'm usually making one-offs so it doesn't seem worth it, but it really made this a whole lot easier and I could make the same headboard again in no time, not to mention having a trial run on the fit of the parts. All in all this (admittedly fairly simple) curved molding experience has been much much easier than I thought it would be.

This is cool. How did you cut the plywood template?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


SouthShoreSamurai posted:

This is cool. How did you cut the plywood template?

Bandsaw and disk/spindle sander.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I'm having trouble with my bandsaw, a Grizzly 14" "Ultimate" saw. Awhile back I put a 3/4" blade on it, which it wasn't really sized for, and I had to muck around with the tensioning system to get it to work right. Now I'm trying to downsize to a more properly-sized blade, and I'm having trouble with the tensioner.



A is the tension adjustment knob. B is I have no clue on, but it has a set screw in it. C is described in the manual as a "spacer", and also has a set screw, but it's really not clear to me how it works.

The problem I'm having is simply that I can't turn the tension adjustment knob, in either direction! I'm hitting some kind of resistance. Previously I could turn it a few times (though it was never exactly easy to turn) before getting stopped, now it's like half a turn at most. I think that maybe the spacer or the "B" component are blocking movement somehow, but I don't understand how all the different systems interact, so I don't know what I need to do differently to get the behavior I need.

I also suspect that the system may be gummed up with sawdust and needs to be cleaned. Does anyone know how feasible it'd be to disassemble it for cleaning, or what kind of lubricant ought to be used?

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!
They show it in use here, maybe that will help? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxAfPq6ZcUA

Also the top comment on that video talks about their screw being stripped and having to replace it. Perhaps that happened to you given the higher than normal tension that had to be applied?

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Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I put a bottle of wood glue in my back pocket and forgot about it…

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