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Very fine steel wool (000 or finer) doesn't mess up furniture, and in fact you can use it as an applicator for some finishes. It's more like a buffing pad. Just make sure you go with the grain, no need to apply heavy pressure. If you're really nervous, try it out on the underside of the tabletop or on a leg or somewhere where nobody will see it.
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Dec 3, 2021 23:37
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Thanks, I might as well just try to post some pics now. It's hard to capture but you can kind of see it in these, although it's exaggerated by the light in the second pic. Flea Bargain posted:What's a birds mouth marking and why is it better? Bird's mouth on right:  I know exactly where the line goes with a bird's mouth, it's a little less clear with a plain mark: 
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Dec 3, 2021 23:46
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 Got the band saw for under $350 after bidder's premium, got the table saw for $660 after bidder's premium, also picked up a Smithy Granite 1324 for $550 after bidder's premium. Now I have to figure out how to get 1500 pounds of tools 25 miles into my garage. (Smithy is on a bench with casters, and table saw is on a caster base, so I'll probably rent a trailer tomorrow to strap them to and haul them home.)
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Dec 4, 2021 01:49
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EVERYWHERE 
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I took shop in both middle and high school and don't recall my shop teachers being drunk or inappropriate with anyone. I must not have been paying attention. One of them did ask me to code another kid's project because I was the only person that figured out how to do circles and curves on the CNC mill, he had no idea how to make it work.
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Dec 4, 2021 02:06
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:I assume everyone itt swapping shop class stories is like 70 because I've seen one high school that even had a shop ever, and it was specifically a technical school for baby electricians or some poo poo That would be me as of this past October.  But you all pretty much knew I was past it.  Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Pretty happy with my latest ‘turn cherry into old walnut’ attempt: drat pretty, and rather convincing.
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Dec 4, 2021 02:49
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Sometimes you make a bowl. Sometimes you make a funnel. 
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Dec 4, 2021 03:11
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I'm building a bed (rapidly, with what I have on hand) and the ash I had was far more warped and tragic than I thought. Ended up getting the side rails out of the single piece of 8/4 that I could mill down to something long enough. I've got 5.25" wide, 1 3/16" thick rails to use, and I'll be gluing on a solid rail to the inside for slat supports which will beef it up considerably. The center slat will be screwed in as well to avoid any bowing. I'm pretty confident that's more than enough strength on an 80" span, but I'm here for any extra thoughts.
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Dec 4, 2021 03:35
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Hypnolobster posted:I'm building a bed (rapidly, with what I have on hand) and the ash I had was far more warped and tragic than I thought. Ended up getting the side rails out of the single piece of 8/4 that I could mill down to something long enough. I've got 5.25" wide, 1 3/16" thick rails to use, and I'll be gluing on a solid rail to the inside for slat supports which will beef it up considerably. The center slat will be screwed in as well to avoid any bowing. E: It may not matter in your design, but if you shrink the inner rail down to an inch or something it will hide more of the box spring. Low profile box springs are usually 5-6” thick and when I use angle irons the side rail hides most or all of the box spring and it looks a little neater. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Dec 4, 2021 |
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Dec 4, 2021 04:19
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I'm avoiding a box spring altogether, the goal is something that's almost a platform bed, but about ~1" of depth just to keep the mattress in place. I want the final height to be about 19" to the top of an 8" mattress, so it'll sink down into a nice comfortable sitting height. Super low compared to normal, but I'm used to a mattress on the floor so it's actually pretty drat tall for me  The slat support might end up at 3/4", it'd save me some milling, as I've got some various hardwoods floating around that are long enough and already finished 4/4. I really wanted to end up more like 1.5" thick on the rails so I could fit in beefier tenons, but oh well.
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Dec 4, 2021 05:04
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Hypnolobster posted:I'm avoiding a box spring altogether, the goal is something that's almost a platform bed, but about ~1" of depth just to keep the mattress in place. I want the final height to be about 19" to the top of an 8" mattress, so it'll sink down into a nice comfortable sitting height. Super low compared to normal, but I'm used to a mattress on the floor so it's actually pretty drat tall for me
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Dec 4, 2021 05:14
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NomNomNom posted:Sometimes you make a bowl. Looks to me like you're just one dish short of a planter pot for growing herbs, friend
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Dec 4, 2021 05:17
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Or that's a place to keep your keys, wallet, etc. near the door Or you can use it for your cereal, if you just eat it really really fast, like, very very very fast maybe oatmeal
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Dec 4, 2021 07:35
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Slap it on some melamine and fill the hole with black dyed resin.
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Dec 4, 2021 10:27
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Woodworking adjacent question, didn't get a response in fix it fast so I'm cross posting here. My toddler's room has a funny little closet raised 2.5 ft off the ground (if you're wondering why, this is at the edge of the 1-and-a-halfth floor, and the closet is raised to the level of the 2nd floor).  She finds it really funny to go inside. She's getting old enough to play semi on her own, so we're thinking of building a little ramp with climbing holds for her to get up there, and make it into a little fort. Anyway I know how to build the ramp (3/4" birch ply with T-nuts for the holds, veneer on the edges to make it nice); I'm looking for ideas on how to attach it though, in a way that is both safe/sturdy, and removable. Going for an angle of like 60 degrees (so 30deg angle from the wall). It doesn't have to be mega easy to remove, it would just be nice to be possible to remove and then put it back, i.e. without unscrewing screws that go right into wood. So, bolts and nuts, shafts and cotter pins, something like that (the mount on the wall does not need to be cleanly removable, just the ramp itself). My challenges are: 1. How to attach. I could see either some very sturdy hinges, or some kind of shaft hinge with a cotter pin. Or maybe some 30deg angle brackets with bolts and nuts attaching the ramp, to make it removeable. However I'd prefer to avoid a rigid solution like angle brackets, as then my measurements on the ramp itself would have to be absolutely perfect and even then the bottom might end up slightly floating above the floor. Hinges/pins are a bit more forgiving and won't over-constrain the system. 2. Where to attach. Plaster walls so I can't really use a studfinder. Is it reasonable to assume there are studs right around, and a horizontal stud below, the doorway though? Alternately I could drill into the uh, sill? The horizontal face of the piece at the bottom of the door. Obviously then the door couldn't close but I'm willing to sacrifice the door itself if necessary. diagram  This is less of a "how do i fix" and more of an invitation for ideas, any creative ideas? 
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Dec 4, 2021 17:54
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NomNomNom posted:Sometimes you make a bowl. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gerNUNbR-YY
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Dec 4, 2021 18:08
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alnilam posted:Woodworking adjacent question, didn't get a response in fix it fast so I'm cross posting here. I wouldn't attach it at all. Make a triangle out of it, and extend it so it goes to the far corner so it won't slide around much. Extend the ramp itself a bit so your supports can clear the baseboard but the ramp is flush. If you're feeling fancy, notch the top so it fits under and around the sill so it's snug and doesn't move easily and makes a gapless transition to the doorway.
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Dec 4, 2021 18:09
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Hmm that might be a good idea, putting the structural load onto the ramp itself so the only attachment that needs to happen is to keep it roughly in place. Then maybe some kind of simple hook and eyelet would be enough to keep it steady. Also of course the woodworking thread solution is more wood
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Dec 4, 2021 18:23
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alnilam posted:
Well it does grow on trees
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Dec 4, 2021 18:47
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alnilam posted:
If you make it a ramp, it will get used as a slide, is my guess. So you may as well design it as a slide, and add a level platform at the tall end, and a ladder to climb up too. (Of course, with a ladder be careful with the spacing, so your child doesn't risk getting her head stuck between the steps.)
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Dec 4, 2021 18:58
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alnilam posted:Woodworking adjacent question, didn't get a response in fix it fast so I'm cross posting here. Steps?
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Dec 4, 2021 19:02
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Not pictured: rock climbing holds on the ramp
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Dec 4, 2021 19:25
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Got 3 new pieces of equipment in my garage. God drat this was harder than it looked. The bandsaw and table saw were no big deal. Band saw is about 200 pounds and the table saw is on casters. The lathe, though, was a bastard. It was on a custom heavy-built table, but not bolted to the table, so there was 670 pounds of sliding weight that I had to securely rig to the trailer to make it the 30 miles home. It wasn't fun. Everything seems to be complete and in good condition, though. The table saw is a Delta Unisaw 34-814, with a nameplate rating of 230v / 20A. That's a beefy motor.  I'm going to have to look at the motor, though, I'm not sure what's in there and the power cord is a 20A plug that I've only seen with 110v before, then it has an extension cord from that plug to convert to a twist lock connector.  I'll have to check stuff out before I try to fire it up. Also, I need a riving knife solution -- is there one for this saw, or am I looking aftermarket? I haven't found a good parts / workshop manual yet. The bandsaw is as expected. Fires up, needs adjusted, probably needs tires, but has a nice, beefy blade on it, so that's good. The Smithy 1324 is not for this thread, but it's a damned beast. So heavy for such a small thing.
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Dec 4, 2021 20:54
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meatpimp posted:Got 3 new pieces of equipment in my garage. God drat this was harder than it looked. Looks good! If you take the blade insert out, you should hopefully see a little screw thing on the rear casting where you can put a riving knife behind the blade. What does the motor nameplate say? It could be one of the smaller motors that will run 110v or 220v Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Dec 4, 2021 |
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Dec 4, 2021 21:12
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Looks good! If you take the blade insert out, you should hopefully see a little screw thing on the rear casting where you can put a riving knife behind the blade. What does the motor nameplate say? It could be one of the smaller motors that will run 110v or 220v Motor nameplate says it's a 4hp 220v Leeson. From a quick search, one of the beefier motors offered on a Unisaw, so I'm happy with that. I'll look into the riving knife next, along with getting a non-janky insert plate.
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Dec 4, 2021 22:20
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I also made a plant stand thing. I believe the style is referred to as 21st Century “It’s Fine”
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Dec 4, 2021 22:23
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Elysium posted:I also made a plant stand thing. I believe the style is referred to as 21st Century “It’s Fine” That does look nice and fine. It will hold your plants and I like the cutout for the tall one. I also have one of those owl pots from HD. Nothing manages to stay small enough for long enough to keep in it.
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Dec 5, 2021 01:09
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alnilam posted:ramp stuff
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Dec 5, 2021 01:35
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meatpimp posted:Got 3 new pieces of equipment in my garage. God drat this was harder than it looked. You. Bid wisely. meatpimp posted:I'm going to have to look at the motor, though, I'm not sure what's in there and the power cord is a 20A plug that I've only seen with 110v before, then it has an extension cord from that plug to convert to a twist lock connector. No worries about the plug being weird, although if you look again, I've seen 220 connectors use the 90° twist on the one leg. The previous owner probably had that on there for convenience. 110 or 220, it's still going to wire the same on those older beasts.
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Dec 5, 2021 01:57
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meatpimp posted:The table saw is a Delta Unisaw 34-814 It looks like this saw originally came with a blade guard and splitter, not a riving knife: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/725906/Delta-Unisaw-34-801.html?page=9#manual Some but not all parts of the guard and splitter are still available to order from various places. If you're comfortable with fabricating with sheet metal, you can make a splitter or riving knife and mount it, there's plenty of mounting hardware in there and it will tilt with the blade. There are aftermarket and "compatible" splitters: my saw is setup different from yours (I have a 36-451) and I have not found a satisfactory one that I can mount, but it looks to me like there's more available with your unisaw, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007SXGQ0/ (amazon's out of stock on that one and I am not sure if it's compatible with your saw, it's just an example). Alternatively, you can buy an MJ Splitter system, which requires a new zero-clearance insert (cheap on amazon etc.) and an hour or so of initial setup using the instructions (which are cramped and not well presented) or by following their video (which is much clearer IMO). The EJ Splitter setup does not tilt, so it's only a solution for 90 degree saw cuts with one specific kerf width per insert you're willing to buy, and it can be a bit fiddly, but it's better than nothing and mine works fine, for cuts within the parameters they say it supports. You can also drop $300 on one of these: https://www.thesharkguard.com/product/delta-ark-package/ I've never felt like spending more for one than I spent for my whole saw, but it'll give you as safe a setup as you can get short of buying a sawstop.
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Dec 5, 2021 03:10
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Mr. Mambold posted:No worries about the plug being weird, although if you look again, I've seen 220 connectors use the 90° twist on the one leg. The previous owner probably had that on there for convenience. 110 or 220, it's still going to wire the same on those older beasts. With the motor discovery, I hope it's just like you said, that they used the 20A 110v plug to run 220v to the machine. I'll probably remove that plug, check the wiring, and add a big-blade 220v plug like my garage heater uses so I can use the same outlet. Leperflesh posted:It looks like this saw originally came with a blade guard and splitter, not a riving knife: Awesome info, thanks. I'm trying to get up to speed with this, but with 3 new pieces of equipment, it's a lot to sort, evaluate, and process. I'll need to make a knife/splitter decision, I'd never seen the MJ Splitter, seems a bit sketchy? But nicely modular for different kerf widths. The Delta bracket you linked looks perfect, but as someone warned here earlier -- I think it may have slipped into unobtanium. I'm going to have to go through the fence, too. I've only took a quick look, and the rear nylon rider block is out of adjustment (you can pull the back of the fence up 1/4" when it's locked in the front). It also has a number of nylon pads on the front of the fence that I'd like to replace, but haven't found the right parts diagram. I did find an upgrade, though, that seems smart to do from the start: https://imgur.com/gallery/EIAHaP3 I'll probably do a full teardown and refresh of this and the bandsaw. I've seen enough evidence of "somebody's been in there before" that I need to make sure that everything is properly sorted and not some backyard mechanic hack that'll get me killed. 
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Dec 5, 2021 12:58
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ok after some loving around and being a project coward and having my bench top commandeered for two weeks by someone else's work, I'm working up the guts to do my drawbores for my workbench and then the mortises for the legs. Wish me luck.
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Dec 5, 2021 17:37
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I found an old broken shovel and wanted to fix it up. It had a broken handle full of glue. I dug out all the glue and old wood with a chisel then gave it a new handle so its now a shovel again. I made the handle out of a gnarly branch from the back yard. There was a rivet holding it together originally, but I had to file that down to get rid of the old handle pieces. I replaced it with a thick nail. The handle is now easily replaceable! 
Rutibex fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Dec 5, 2021 |
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Dec 5, 2021 19:14
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Leperflesh posted:It looks like this saw originally came with a blade guard and splitter, not a riving knife:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjEMLt2SFXQ&t=558s I should deffo get myself one of these. My unisaw came to me via someone else's missing fingers and angry wife.
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Dec 6, 2021 02:42
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I don't care if it's a good deal, I don't care if it often turns out fine, I'm just not buying a power tool that's tasted human blood
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Dec 6, 2021 05:23
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the OP mentions a book called "box making." there are a lot of books that are either named that, or whose names could be easily abbreviated that way. no publisher or author is mentioned any clues what'd be good? i have no idea what i'm doing and little in the way of power tools (though im ok to buy stuff that's generally useful around the house) - i'm looking to try my hand at making a box and other such simple and useful projects. i haven't worked wood since 8th grade shop class.
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Dec 6, 2021 06:16
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Leperflesh posted:It looks like this saw originally came with a blade guard and splitter, not a riving knife: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeMDZPWjvAs&t=365s Here's a video of a riving knife retrofit. This one seems pretty involved, you'd have to be comfortable getting up in the guts of the saw. I love this channel. Eloise is a great woodworker and has good youtube presence
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Dec 6, 2021 06:57
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:I don't care if it's a good deal, I don't care if it often turns out fine, I'm just not buying a power tool that's tasted human blood Probably for the best
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Dec 6, 2021 12:40
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Achmed Jones posted:the OP mentions a book called "box making." there are a lot of books that are either named that, or whose names could be easily abbreviated that way. no publisher or author is mentioned I like the Taunton books for getting a basic intro to furniture construction and overview of joinery. You can get them with a Fine Woodworking Unlimited subscription, or of course buy them physically.
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Dec 6, 2021 13:13
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ColdPie posted:I like the Taunton books for getting a basic intro to furniture construction and overview of joinery. You can get them with a Fine Woodworking Unlimited subscription, or of course buy them physically. Seconding these. Also if you're hard up for money you can often find used ones of these, especially paperback versions, for really cheap on eBay now and then. Couple years ago I bought several of them this way without having to look very hard / very long.
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Dec 6, 2021 13:32
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:I don't care if it's a good deal, I don't care if it often turns out fine, I'm just not buying a power tool that's tasted human blood  Radial arm saw production line.
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Dec 6, 2021 14:26
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