|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think it is a dining room thing for storing linens and serving vessels like others have suggested. You could call it a server or a buffet or a small sideboard. It's not particularly old. Very likely from the 1940s-60s, but it might be from earlier in the century. It's a bit hard to tell from your pictures, but the drawer fronts appear to be mahogany, thought they are maybe some striped red tupelo or sweetgum and probably veneered as well. The doors/drawer faces that show are some kind of curly wood-again hard to say from your pictures. Maybe mahogany, maybe maple, maybe just some figured gum or something. It was factory made, and looks of decent quality. I would guess it has machine dovetailed drawers and a plywood back/drawer bottoms. If there's a label, it's probably on the inside of a drawer side, a drawer bottom, or somewhere on the back/bottom of the piece, but they aren't always labelled. I don't really know what style I would call it. It's not particularly valuable-$200-500 tops on a good day? Agree with most of this, but to add it's a quality build with plenty of charm and use life ahead of it. It's a keeper imo.
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2020 17:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 22:38 |
|
|
Thanks! I'm certainly going to hold on to it, it's a neat piece and has a lot of memory attached to it. And it's not made of particle board which makes me real happy. Still not sure what I'm going to store in it, but I'll find something. I also got a pie safe, which is a hilarious piece of furniture imo.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2020 18:27
|
|
|
You can't just say you have a pie safe and not show it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2020 18:49
|
|
|
anatomi posted:You can't just say you have a pie safe and not show it. A pie safe:    The top section is probably where you keep either finished pies or pie creation implements. You can see on the lower of the two shelves there's a hook that will latch the left door closed, and a simple latch on the right door to keep it in place well. The same arrangement is on the bottom cabinet as well.   The bottom is where you store hot pies out of the oven, it's vented so they can cool but won't be bothered by bugs, grandchildren, or other ne'er-do-wells. Like the mystery cabinet this was acquired by my grandmother at some point, possibly from her mother or grandmother. No clue. Forgive the dust, this just came out of a shipping container. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jun 29, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2020 19:20
|
|
|
That pie safe is a nice arts and crafts/stickley style, definitely oak and probably white oak, late 19th/early 20thC and neat and handsome and somewhat collectible. Mambold is definitely right-that server is much much better built than most anything factory you’d buy today, and I didn’t mean to give any other impression.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2020 19:44
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think it is a dining room thing for storing linens and serving vessels like others have suggested. Also the literal silver ware. Back in the mid century and earlier, your full set of nice silver tableware often came in a special box for it all to fit in, and some of the shallower of those drawers are just the right height to store one or two of them. This sort of thing:  It was not uncommon to have a set like this, and then maybe another set with larger stuff like ladles and big meat forks etc. Or sometimes they were whole chests like this  So, grandma's good silver went in the sideboard or hutch or whatever that lived in the formal dining room, and then the regular steel tableware for normal people and for eating in the dinette or wherever was in the kitchen drawer, and you busted out the nice stuff only for special occasions, along with the special linens.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2020 19:53
|
|
|
I started asking about this in the Discord but I have more focused questions now. I moved into a new place a few months ago and it's white everywhere. The walls, the trim, the countertops, cabinets, tile, literally everything. I want to get this done well from the get-go so things actually match around the house. I'm planning to start un-whiteing it by adding wood trim to places that don't have trim, and eventually replacing the existing making GBS threads trim to match. Since all the premade trim I can find is white or totally unfinished, I need to figure out a plan to finish everything. I've already started color experimenting with a couple of sample pieces of pine and red oak with a few misc stains I had lying around and will continue to do that with new wood and stain samples as I find decent options. Based on the descriptions gel stain seems like a great option for ease of use and because it'll help avoid the blotchiness that comes with most cheaper woods (pine, hemlock). Does anyone have experience with gel stains and can recommend one? Regardless of what color and species I end up with I'll need to have a protective finish. I was reading Flexners book but he doesn't recommend specific brands very much. In the Discord chat I was recommended Emmet's Good Stuff. Is that considered a gel varnish? Is it appropriate for large scale application on trim or is it overkill? loving finish labeling sucks so bad.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2020 06:49
|
|
|
I don't have a ton of experience using it myself, but I see painters using Minwax Polycrylic on interior woodwork frequently. It's water based and doesn't stink as bad as alot of stuff. It's also water-white and doesn't yellow. Because it is water based, you may want to wet the bare wood to raise the grain, and then sand with 220, or else scuff sand after the first coat. Sometimes it seems a little flat/dull to me, but that's probably just the gloss level someone was using. Shellac is an option too-it's what everything got finished with before polyurethane came around. The fact that it has a color to it can help blend different stuff together and get the color more consistent. You can wax over either to get a really nice soft shine, but that makes it more complicated if you ever change your mind and want to paint over it. https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2020 12:39
|
|
|
Call for a DIY IK https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3930843
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2020 15:54
|
|
|
A lot of boxes (jewely boxes etc) I've been looking at have lids made by table sawing the top off and then putting hinges in. Is there a reason for this beyond continuity of grain?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 16:47
|
|
|
Stultus Maximus posted:A lot of boxes (jewely boxes etc) I've been looking at have lids made by table sawing the top off and then putting hinges in. Is there a reason for this beyond continuity of grain? That's the exact and only reason.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 16:56
|
|
|
Stultus Maximus posted:A lot of boxes (jewely boxes etc) I've been looking at have lids made by table sawing the top off and then putting hinges in. Is there a reason for this beyond continuity of grain? Also helps out if your box is out of square a bit, the top will match the bottom perfectly vs trying to glue up two half boxes to have the same inconsistencies. However, if you're careful it doesn't really matter, I've done it both ways.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 17:10
|
|
|
I have somehow ended up with around 10 off cuts from FD30 fire doors from https://www.pacifire.com/pacifire , all at least 2400x370x40 in size. I am trying to find out if there is really anything I can do with them? The cores look like this  Should I just arrange for disposal?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 21:11
|
|
|
Do you need any shelves?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 21:26
|
|
|
Keep every last scrap of wood, IMO. Hoarding scraps is an attribute of a True Slatflipper. (In all seriousness, I use scraps for shims, paint stirrers, cauls, impromptu painting stands, etc. but eventually you have too much and should throw the smallest and shittiest bits away, or burn them or something.) That's likely just soft yellow pine scrap though, so not something you'd want to use for a cutting board or whatever. Unless you have one of those projects people do with other trash pine like pallets, it's just more pine scrap. e. Yeah cheap garage shelving, sliced up for support members for something that will be hidden inside cabinetry, whatever you'd normally just use cheap ply or pine for, that stuff would likely work well.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 21:27
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Keep every last scrap of wood, IMO. Hoarding scraps is an attribute of a True Slatflipper. We're not talking small scraps here though. FD30 fire doors are heavy as gently caress and those offcuts are 8ft long.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 21:29
|
|
|
Huh. I missed the dimensions, I thought they were the offcuts from cutting the doors down to size, e.g., just slim bits. How is an eight foot fire door an offcut? ...is that stuff actually hardwood? poo poo, maybe strip the veneer and recover a shitload of nice hardwood?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 21:34
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Huh. I missed the dimensions, I thought they were the offcuts from cutting the doors down to size, e.g., just slim bits. Often two slightly thinner doors are better than 1 super wide one, especially when they weigh 200lbs+
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 21:40
|
|
|
That’s neat construction. It looks like it is cross laminated timber with plywood on either face. I hope we start seeing more cross laminated timber used. It’s a good, fairly green way to use up the massive amounts of plantation grown yellow pine and Douglas fir leftover from the paper industry and it allows construction of tall, fire resistant buildings out of wood instead of concrete and steel. It does look like yellow pine to me, and being basically really thick plywood covered with more plywood, I bet it is stiff as gently caress. It would make great shelves, or brackets for shelves, or glue a bunch of them together for a workbench top or something.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 21:42
|
|
|
What's throwing me is that while it looks like pine in that photo, the website saysquote:Solid Timber
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 21:47
|
|
|
e: I had like 4 different theories but tldr they're full of poo poo. That's softwood. ee: the posted photo I think is not Litewood. I think the photo is of a similar but different product called Pacfire SPF. The Litewood version has albasia falcata for a core. Absolutely keep it, that'd make great workbench tops, shelves, etc. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Jul 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 22:37
|
|
|
Just so others know fire code doors can simply be wood. Chipboard solid core doors are 20min doors here in the US. A solid softwood would be 30min but when you get into the 60, 90, and above you are talking compacted chemical compounds that are nasty to cut. If you want to know what the core is without a cloud of whatever the new Asbestos is, drill a hole in it and see what fills the bit groves.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2020 23:15
|
|
|
Thanks for the ideas, going to strip one into pieces later, I might be able to make a workbench from a few but they are not very wide.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2020 08:06
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:Just so others know fire code doors can simply be wood. Chipboard solid core doors are 20min doors here in the US. A solid softwood would be 30min but when you get into the 60, 90, and above you are talking compacted chemical compounds that are nasty to cut. If you want to know what the core is without a cloud of whatever the new Asbestos is, drill a hole in it and see what fills the bit groves. Yeah I don't want to make assumptions about what the insides are, but they're definitely 30 minute doors (hence FD30).
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2020 08:14
|
|
|
Today's offcuts are tomorrow's jigs
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2020 09:04
|
|
|
These might be a bit too thick to make any jigs from. It would be interesting if I could split them in half from 40 to 20cm they might be more useful.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2020 12:39
|
|
|
Vier posted:Thanks for the ideas, going to strip one into pieces later, I might be able to make a workbench from a few but they are not very wide. There are ways of recombining them and people itt are here to tell you about it. Workbench sounds like an intriguing notion.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2020 15:58
|
|
|
First "serious" project is nearing the final stages. I did not design this piece for aesthetics, ease of construction, or lumber economy; I wanted to make something that required literally every single machine, tool, bit, brush, plane I owned, just so I could practice using all of them. The lumber store had some gorgeous "African Mahogany" (whatever that actually is...) on special for ~$3 bd/ft. So that's what I used, and well, 10 layers of hand-brushed shellac later, another important lesson learned about the difference between closed and open-grained woods. Going to polish the poo poo out of this tomorrow with 600/800/1500 grit and olive oil tomorrow to give it a faux-French polish look. IDK. We'll see! 
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2020 06:53
|
|
|
I love it! Are you going to build a drawer to match? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2020 12:54
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:There are ways of recombining them and people itt are here to tell you about it. Workbench sounds like an intriguing notion. I am more than happy to take advice on how I can use them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2020 13:16
|
|
|
forbidden dialectics posted:First "serious" project is nearing the final stages. I did not design this piece for aesthetics, ease of construction, or lumber economy; I wanted to make something that required literally every single machine, tool, bit, brush, plane I owned, just so I could practice using all of them. That looks great! I like the design. African mahogany is one of my favorite woods, and $3/bf is a good price. It's a first cousin to genuine mahogany and is the best substitute for it imo in terms of looks and workability. Is that a jointer/planer to the left?
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2020 15:23
|
|
|
Vier posted:I am more than happy to take advice on how I can use them. I think you can dowel or biscuit pieces together to make a wide enough work surface to suit. You can then brace it horizontally underneath when you add legs. There have been some good plans for workbenches posted itt, I just don't have any at hand atm.. fakedit- I 2nd Schnitzel re: African Mahogany, 3 bucks a board foot is like 1980's price (ie.good!)
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2020 16:53
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:fakedit- I 2nd Schnitzel re: African Mahogany, 3 bucks a board foot is like 1980's price (ie.good!) My old boss remembers buying 36" wide genuine mahogany boards for $1/bf and thinking it was expensive 
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2020 18:27
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I've been paying like $3.50-4.50/bf for it lately. It's half what genuine costs and there's still some nice wide stuff in there sometimes. I don't know how long it and sapele are gonna last, but I hope they can figure out how to harvest them in a sustainable way. Tropical Africa is big but not near as big as all of tropical central and south america. Oh gently caress him, I don't believe that for a minute. Unless he was living in Central or South America at the time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2020 20:17
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That looks great! I like the design. African mahogany is one of my favorite woods, and $3/bf is a good price. It's a first cousin to genuine mahogany and is the best substitute for it imo in terms of looks and workability. I just checked my receipt and it was actually $3.80 bd/ft...so closer to $4 than $3 but still good for how beautiful the wood was. I got a couple boards that were almost 8" wide, but they were on special because they were pretty banged up and almost all of the boards had a pretty decent twist. Here's what it looked like jointed, planed, and ripped to width:  Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is that a jointer/planer to the left? Yep! It's the Hammer A3-31. I ordered it back in January and it finally arrived about 2 weeks ago. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2020 21:46
|
|
|
"Mahogany" is so widely misapplied in the woodworking world that I wouldn't take any description of any wood as "mahogany" at face value. https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/mahogany-mixups-the-lowdown/  Unless your source is giving you an actual species name, there's a good chance it's not really mahogany. Especially if the price is good. The source of the problem isn't just suppliers being dishonest, though. It's woodworkers being too lazy to learn the common or binomial names of a whole host of good mahogany-substitutes enough to actually seek them out and being willing to buy them. Suppliers call woods "mahogany" because they're similar in characteristics and quality and woodworkers will buy it, not because they just especially feel like lying. e. Also, note that mahogany trees are exported as part of a lot of unsustainable logging and habitat destruction. I know I'm practically pissing into a headwind here but: it'd be super cool if we all tried to seek out sustainably-sourced wood for our projects.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2020 04:58
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:e. Also, note that mahogany trees are exported as part of a lot of unsustainable logging and habitat destruction. I know I'm practically pissing into a headwind here but: it'd be super cool if we all tried to seek out sustainably-sourced wood for our projects. It may not be a popular opinion in many circles, but you're right and should you should say it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2020 13:28
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:"Mahogany" is so widely misapplied in the woodworking world that I wouldn't take any description of any wood as "mahogany" at face value. African mahogany has been long considered an adequate substitute for 'genuine', but I totally agree with you. Idk how endangered now african mahogany has become. The actual swietenia genus is unique among wood species in that it really does not move like other lumber variants. English cabinet makers went gaga over it whenever they discovered it, oh in the 17th century I'm guessing? A quickie wiki says earlier https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swietenia_mahagoni by the Spanish and gently caress them and their Armada. I'm a big proponent of plantation raised lumber like (i.e. sustainable) South American eucalyptus- at least that's what the guy called it, when we got it as a substitute. Similar coloring, very dense and heavy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2020 16:13
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:African mahogany has been long considered an adequate substitute for 'genuine', but I totally agree with you. Idk how endangered now african mahogany has become. The actual swietenia genus is unique among wood species in that it really does not move like other lumber variants. English cabinet makers went gaga over it whenever they discovered it, oh in the 17th century I'm guessing? A quickie wiki says earlier https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swietenia_mahagoni by the Spanish and gently caress them and their Armada. Like doesnt move as in checking or cupping or.. Anything?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2020 16:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 22:38 |
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Like doesnt move as in checking or cupping or.. Like STEEL! But, seriously it is extremely stable wood so things like cupping are minimal. Although everything wood will move with humidity, mahogany is one of the least in that respect. Also rot resistant, so good in water. That's what I was taught, in any case.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2020 17:12
|
|