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Rock My Socks! posted:I’m building a simple pine salt cellar as a first project...it’s not exactly pretty but I’m reasonably happy with it. You could flip the top over. The lid will be tight at the long edges and you won't notice it as much. You could also screw/nail (don't glue) some battens or cleats cross grain to hold it flat. Sometimes I've had good luck wetting the concave side and setting it out in the sun with the convex face up, but that's usually a temporary fix. The best fix is planing and dressing it flat. Softwood lumber like that isn't dried to a very low moisture content and tends to warp a bit after it gets inside conditioned space. For future reference and to add to Leperflesh's excellent diagrams-the way boards cup isn't random. In a plainsawn board like yours, the growth rings almost always try to flatten out and the side of the board facing the heart of the tree(the bottom of your warped board) will will try to become convex. It's much harder to predict how a board will become crooked down it's length, but cupping like that across the width is fairly predictable (but gets more complicated if you start resawing or have badly dried wood) calandryll posted:Had some more fun with my friends mill. This time I was around long enough to help cut some large trees.
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Oct 27, 2020 01:46
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GEMorris posted:If you are going super budget why not just attach the router directly to the underside of the table and forego the plate altogether? The plate was $25 while t-channel and the fittings would have come to ~$70. I like the plate because it provides a large, flat, and stable surface, and has easily swappable inserts for different sized bits. Also there are measuring increments on it as well to assist in lining things up. Today I fastened the fence to the sliders and wired up a switch. Going to add some storage for my various bits and router accessories.
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Oct 27, 2020 02:44
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I'm looking at making a wheeled kitchen island with an unfinished maple counter top, and I'm getting overwhelmed by the finishing options. I've been looking at this butcher block oil at HD. Would it be appropriate if I want something low maintenance to protect against moisture and stains? In case anyone asks about usage it's going to be used as a prep area and as a small dinner table. I won't cut directly on it either.
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Oct 27, 2020 16:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That's a super cool (and terrifying mill!) I was treating it like my tablesaw, assume it will kill you at a moments notice. The hardest part was moving 2 inch thick slabs of wood. It also vibrated a lot when wood was going through the blade, but it was a fun time though I was a bit sore the next day.
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Oct 27, 2020 17:06
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My latest project is (mostly) finished! I hope none of you fancy wood workers recoil in horror  I have been struggling with a black & decker clamping sawhorse for a long time, and turning wood on the floor. I never had any kind of solid work bench, just a couple flimsy card tables. Well I decided to change that. I posted earlier about the old pallets I had collected, now it is time to put some of them to work. First I collected two pallets and broke one apart to get at the juicy wood core. Pulling rested nails out of old skids is tedious!      Then I cut the legs to correct length with a hand saw and fixed them to the bottom with some nails    I bought a wood vise on Amazon, so I mounted that and added a shelf on the bottom:  
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Oct 27, 2020 18:04
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Sashimi posted:I'm looking at making a wheeled kitchen island with an unfinished maple counter top, and I'm getting overwhelmed by the finishing options. I've been looking at this butcher block oil at HD. Would it be appropriate if I want something low maintenance to protect against moisture and stains? That stuff is fine, or plain mineral oil from the drug store is good too and cheap. calandryll posted:I was treating it like my tablesaw, assume it will kill you at a moments notice. The hardest part was moving 2 inch thick slabs of wood. It also vibrated a lot when wood was going through the blade, but it was a fun time though I was a bit sore the next day. Yeah in my limited sawmilling experience, most of the time and labor is in moving and stacking the wood, not in cutting it.
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Oct 27, 2020 18:25
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I buy mineral oil in 16oz bottles for about $3 from the drug store (the stuff labeled as a laxative). Don’t put wax on it if you’re likely to put hot things on it. I like to rub in olive oil on days I’m making pizza too, and just clean off with a wet rag. Reapply mineral oil as necessary.
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Oct 27, 2020 18:31
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Jhet posted:I buy mineral oil in 16oz bottles for about $3 from the drug store (the stuff labeled as a laxative). Don’t put wax on it if you’re likely to put hot things on it. I like to rub in olive oil on days I’m making pizza too, and just clean off with a wet rag. Reapply mineral oil as necessary. I was/am under the impression that olive oil can cause cutting boards to smell rancid.
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Oct 27, 2020 18:46
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Where do y’all find plans? Anyone have plans for an easy kids desk? I’m no where near great at this carpentry thing (see my comics cabinet that I still need to finish but it’s cold out and I don’t wanna), but feel like I could put together a desk for my niece pretty easily.
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Oct 27, 2020 18:55
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Rutibex posted:My latest project is (mostly) finished! I hope none of you fancy wood workers recoil in horror This is absolutely amazing. This loving rules. Your leg to top joinery isn't going to last blah blah blah whatever... You improved your situation with the resources you had at hand in a way I haven't had to for at least a decade and my hat is off to you sir. Goddamn this owns. Add cross bracing to the back or attach it to the wall to resist racking. Throw some sandbags on that shelf to increase mass, etc. etc. Do you see this as a step towards your next bench or do you plan to stop here and build things with this setup? (There's no wrong answer!) GEMorris fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Oct 27, 2020 |
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Oct 27, 2020 19:09
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GEMorris posted:This is absolutely amazing. This loving rules. Your leg to top joinery isn't going to last blah blah blah whatever... You improved your situation with the resources you had at hand in a way I haven't had to for at least a decade and my hat is off to you sir. Thanks!  Yeah its a bit more wobbly that I would like, that's a good idea to nail it to the wall I think I'm going to try that.Yes, I would like to build a few more benches to replace the card tables I am using now, and improve the one I have here. But I think that will wait for after Christmas, right now I want to work on making presents
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Oct 27, 2020 19:35
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There are several ways to resist racking; nailing it to the wall is one, but if you want to be able to move it around: you can nail a sheet of ply to the rear legs, or you can put in angled braces between the legs, or you can add skirts that nail into the legs, or some combo.
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Oct 27, 2020 19:49
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To add more to the bench reinforcement chat, this article from Schwarz is a good catalogue of the different reinforcement options available to you Link
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Oct 27, 2020 20:11
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 I knocked this together for my mom and it was so solid after I screwed on those angled braces. It could have held my weight except for the legs being a little thin (it's holding up three potted plants, so gently caress it).
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Oct 27, 2020 20:15
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AFewBricksShy posted:I was/am under the impression that olive oil can cause cutting boards to smell rancid. It could if you just leave it to sit. But I rub it on and then wipe it down with a warm and wet rag so I’d guess that very little stays longer than I’m making the pizza. I also use the butcher block surface heavily, so maybe if you were wiping on olive oil and then leaving it to sit on an unused serving board then it’ll definitely go rancid. It’s not a finishing oil definitely, but it won’t hurt to leave it oily from cooking.
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Oct 27, 2020 20:21
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GEMorris posted:To add more to the bench reinforcement chat, this article from Schwarz is a good catalogue of the different reinforcement options available to you Oh awesome, this entire blog is getting bookmarked. Uthor posted:
 I have been meaning to get a miter box.....
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Oct 27, 2020 20:34
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Rutibex posted:I bought a wood vise on Amazon, so I mounted that and added a shelf on the bottom: Agreeing with GEMorris on this one - looks good. That's also the same vise I use, I just added a piece of maple faced with cork so I had a bit more clamping area.
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Oct 27, 2020 21:09
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Anyone have strong opinions or experience with African mahogany vs sapele as far as rot resistance? I’ve used both extensively for interior work and generally prefer working with African mahogany and the Forest Products Laboratory puts them both in the same ‘moderately durable’ category, but I have no experience using them outside. This is some boat stuff that should hopefully be completely encapsulated by finish and I could theoretically use poplar, but I’d rather play it as safe as possible, esp. seeing as they are the same price. Spanish cedar is also an option but it’s so soft and stinky I’d rather not use it.
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Oct 27, 2020 22:26
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Replying from like a week/a few pages ago...TooMuchAbstraction posted:The "which saw" debate shows up fairly frequently, though not so often that I can just point you to the last time it happened. Let me see if I can sum up the pros/cons of your various options: GEMorris posted:Track saw is notably absent from that list, which is otherwise a good list.
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Oct 28, 2020 16:17
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Good job Rutibex. I made the Rex Kreuger low Roman style laminated dimensional lumber workbench and I'm quite happy with it. I'm not short of space, but I was unhappy with the counters in my new garage for sawing especially, so I did it up and designed it to slide it out of the way into an otherwise nul space underneath the counter counters. Just throwing that out there for anyone who is facing work bench problems.
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Oct 28, 2020 18:14
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CommonShore posted:Good job Rutibex. I watched that same Rex Kreuger video and I plan to make one of those eventually too I took some advice about my bench and cut these 90 degree wedges to put into the corners. Now it's a lot more rigid! There were other thing I could have done, but this seemed the laziest:  
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Oct 28, 2020 18:44
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Rutibex posted:I watched that same Rex Kreuger video and I plan to make one of those eventually too When you do it the biggest hassle is the leg holes and getting a big enough bit. Every other part is more or less a cakewalk.
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Oct 28, 2020 19:18
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I was gifted my Grandpa's old planes, he was a carpenter his whole adult life, and I'm very excited to use them after a bit of care.
OgreNoah fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Oct 28, 2020 |
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Oct 28, 2020 19:52
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Your grandad was a smart dude because those are the two sizes I recommend folks start with (no 6 and low angle block plane) I know Schwarz and other say start with a no5, but my take it that a no6 can serve as a jointer in ways that a no5 never will, and any smoothing situation that a No5 will outperform a no6 can be handled by judicious use of the block plane. Buy a high quality blade+chipbreaker for the No6, sharpen it with a slight arc and use it for jointing and smoothing. Take the original blade and chipbreaker and sharpen it with a more significant arc and use it for roughing work. Because your new blade will be significantly thicker, you'll be able to swap blades for tasks without having to adjust the frog/mouth. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Oct 28, 2020 |
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Oct 28, 2020 21:15
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It's my belief that the advice to start with a #5 is based at least in part on the fact that they sold in far greater numbers than the #6, and therefore should be much easier to find and at a lower price point too. Whether that's true I can't say for certain as I don't really follow the old tool market but it feels plausible. Regardless, I never really got the aversion against the #6 and cleaned up it should be a solid plane. Also, because they are so much thicker, if you do buy an aftermarket iron+chip breaker, you may find that you need to open the mouth a bit to actually pass shavings without clogging.
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Oct 28, 2020 22:36
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Just Winging It posted:It's my belief that the advice to start with a #5 is based at least in part on the fact that they sold in far greater numbers than the #6, and therefore should be much easier to find and at a lower price point too. Whether that's true I can't say for certain as I don't really follow the old tool market but it feels plausible. Regardless, I never really got the aversion against the #6 and cleaned up it should be a solid plane. Yeah, for setting a target I get it, the 5 was the everyman homeowner plane for sure. The aversion to the 6 is almost entirely due to Patrick Leach who made the first attempt on the internet to catalogue Stanley planes, his opinions got perpetuated for quite a long while. Just Winging It posted:Also, because they are so much thicker, if you do buy an aftermarket iron+chip breaker, you may find that you need to open the mouth a bit to actually pass shavings without clogging. True. I personally didn't have this happen and have now replaced all my Stanleys with Veritas stuff, but this can happen. A file fixes it but some folks can be too scared to take this on (there's good videos on youtube for setting up a plane, including this one)
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Oct 28, 2020 23:22
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I bought a Kreg pocket hole jig (it's fun to use!) and am wondering if I need to use their screws or if I can use some generic ones for less? https://www.kregtool.com/shop/pocket-hole-joinery/pocket-hole-jigs/kreg-pocket-hole-jig-320/KPHJ320.html
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Oct 29, 2020 03:46
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Uthor posted:I bought a Kreg pocket hole jig (it's fun to use!) and am wondering if I need to use their screws or if I can use some generic ones for less? There may be cheaper ones out there, but you can't just like, use a drywall screw and expect the same results. The washer head and the smooth shank draw the pieces together super tight and square. IMO just suffer the price of the Kreg screws, they're pretty great.
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Oct 29, 2020 03:55
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Uthor posted:I bought a Kreg pocket hole jig (it's fun to use!) and am wondering if I need to use their screws or if I can use some generic ones for less? Pocket hole screws have 3 features
Based on this, I'm pretty sure you can join pocket holes with cabinet screws, but I would defer to other opinions.
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Oct 29, 2020 04:12
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I've looked for cheaper screws and I haven't really found any that meet all the criteria you need for pocket hole screws. Everything I've found that's worth using is comparably priced to Kreg screws, so I just use Kreg screws. Also, Kreg screws are square drive and that alone is enough to make me pay the extra for them.
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Oct 29, 2020 04:40
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There are knockoffs, but it’s always hard to tell if you are getting something decent or complete crap. If you buy the packs that are like 250 or 500 of one length screw they don’t seem that expensive, it’s the small boxes and variety packs that are insane.
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Oct 29, 2020 04:45
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I've taken to using GRK cabinet screws when it comes to 2 1/2 ones at least. You aren't going to save any money but personally I've always had issues with camout using Kreg's square drive screws despite that being one of the things square drive is supposed to be good at avoiding. I don't think they make the pocket deep enough and if you don't get just the right angle you can chowder the screw head pretty easily and I've noticed the longer ones especially tend to squirrel around a little as they go in making that difficult. The GRK cabinet screws are torx heads. Milescraft is another alternative, they also use torx heads and are even a little bit cheaper, no idea about quality but I don't actually think the Kreg screws are anything special construction wise. Oddly enough the best screws I ever used for pocket holes were #9 Simpson Strong-Tie SD screws I had leftover and used finishing up some shelving in a shed, if you have a thin walled 1/4 bit they just barely fit and the socket heads drive fantastic. Pricey though.
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Oct 29, 2020 04:47
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The real trick is you need a long shaft bit to drive the screws deep enough, and the one in the kit has that square proprietary head. Just buy their screws, I say. 95% if your usage is going to be either the softwood 3/4 or 6/4 appropriate lengths, anyway.
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Oct 29, 2020 05:32
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Get a machinists lathe and a tap&die kit and make your own screws. Steel rod is cheaper than any box of screws!
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Oct 29, 2020 06:02
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So I spent the afternoon learning Sketchup to model the workbench I want to build. It's basically the Moravian workbench from here but modified for timber that I have easy access to, plus different vice hardware (that's what the bit on the left is). I'm pretty happy with the results, but would love it if people had feedback/suggestions. More images here. There's pegs to hold the bottom rails on, but I haven't modeled them yet.
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Oct 29, 2020 08:38
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Flea Bargain posted:So I spent the afternoon learning Sketchup to model the workbench I want to build. It's basically the Moravian workbench from here but modified for timber that I have easy access to, plus different vice hardware (that's what the bit on the left is). I'm pretty happy with the results, but would love it if people had feedback/suggestions. My only feedback is that will make an awesome bench. Actually, you may want to think about the tool well, seems to take away from the actual bench space. I've never had one on any of my benches, and can't say I would want one.
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Oct 29, 2020 14:10
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Or at least consider its depth vs your workspace. I see in the video yours matches his, and I'm sure it's fine, but others I've seen have been more like 20% of the total workbench area and yours looks more like 40%. I'm sure it's got its advantages that big, but if I were building it myself I'd probably keep the total width and expand the flat-top area by 2-3 board widths. Either way, show us process/completion pics!
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Oct 29, 2020 14:14
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The obvious shortcomings of the moravian are: Not enough benchtop (as stated above) Its a knockdown bench that will come loose over time, requiring frequent re-tightening Also I'm not sure what you are gaining by going with a quick release vise other than ease of construction? To each their own but I've grown to love leg vises.
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Oct 29, 2020 16:48
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GEMorris posted:
I have an old quick release record as my end/tail vise and I really love it. Working with stuff flat and squished between bench dogs was kind of revolutionary. If I could only have 1 vise on my bench, it would be there at the end of the bench and give up the leg vise. Thirding or 4thing whatever that tool wells are wasted space. Just pile all your tools up in a giant mess on the top of the bench like the rest of us.
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Oct 29, 2020 17:43
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Preferring a tail vise over a face vise (leg or quick release) is certainly an unexpected take. Not saying your preferences are wrong, but based on your comments, have you used the combination of a planing stop and a does foot before? I ask because I went from "tail vise is critical" to "my next bench won't have a tail vise" after using that combo.
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Oct 29, 2020 19:49
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