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Has anyone ever actually used the rabbeting ledge on their jointer?
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Feb 25, 2021 18:34
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Don't think so.
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Feb 25, 2021 18:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Has anyone ever actually used the rabbeting ledge on their jointer? Yeah, but it's tricky poo poo, and I do not recall why I did this. If you set it too deep, you're gonna get tearout, from what I vaguely recall. Edit- in fact, if you go against grain, it'll tearout regardless, unless I imagine youv'e got one of those fancy new staggered carbide cutters I can't remember the term for. Discernibly Turgid posted:What’s up, old-rear end saw buddy? Yo, we're talking O.G. now not ogee, getme?  Unisaws are like Chevy trucks, they loving own. I went for years with no dust collection on that and the previous Delta contractor saw I had, and I know it took its But, I don't do this to make a living anymore, so what's cut is cut, what's inhaled is inhaled. And my lungs and sinuses are a lot better nowadays for not huffing that poo poo day in, day out, dayooooo. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Feb 25, 2021 |
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Feb 25, 2021 21:07
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Sadi posted:More stupid newbie questions. My printed router guide will have to be used on both sides of the raw birch table top that I am trimming the edges of. My printer isnt large enough to give me room to clamp it to the board. Can I use hot glue or an other adheasive to temporarily fix it to the surface with out hurting the finish that I will be applying? (General Finishes High Performance poly) Put blue tape on your template, and blue tape on the workpiece. Superglue the two together. You can then use the template and just pull the tape off afterwards. Its strong enough for most things.
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Feb 25, 2021 21:12
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Mr. Mambold posted:Yo, we're talking O.G. now not ogee, getme? Serious thread question, how many times per year does the O.G./ogee joke come around?
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Feb 25, 2021 21:41
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Not often enough to wenge about it.
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Feb 25, 2021 21:43
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Bubinga!
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Feb 25, 2021 21:51
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I walnut tolerate anymore bad wood puns!
Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Feb 25, 2021 |
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Feb 25, 2021 22:09
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epswing posted:Serious thread question, how many times per year does the O.G./ogee joke come around? Exact or round over?
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Feb 25, 2021 22:14
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Butternut even think about posting anymore woodplay
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Feb 25, 2021 22:14
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Butternut even think about posting anymore woodplay reported. mods?!
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Feb 25, 2021 22:17
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Butternut even think about posting anymore woodplay Turn yourself in, it just wasn’t sharp enough to cut through and be punny.
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Feb 25, 2021 23:19
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Listen here, you can't just cherry pick which rules to enforce.
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Feb 25, 2021 23:46
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Don’t ax the mod silly questions, he might birchslap you
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Feb 25, 2021 23:53
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Board of these plane replies
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Feb 26, 2021 00:11
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Can't teak it, sycamore puns here.
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Feb 26, 2021 00:52
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cone on guys this has gone to fur
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Feb 26, 2021 00:56
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So it a pears
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Feb 26, 2021 00:57
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I pine for the days before these puns were so poplar
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Feb 26, 2021 01:01
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i made a tapering jig out of scrap so my next sawbench can have tapered legs doesn't look quite as nice as paul's but hopefully it'll do the trick https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbedWFrnZxs
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Feb 26, 2021 01:52
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I made a mitt drying rack for my kids mitts and other winter gear. Cherry with an osmo oil finish. 
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Feb 26, 2021 02:06
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I walnut tolerate anymore bad wood puns! How long have you been saving that chesnut? Bet you were poplar in high school, always going against the grain. We're knot going to tolerate you trying to ply us with that kind of sappy stuff.
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Feb 26, 2021 02:26
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What's a good strategy to cut these dados without a tablesaw + dado stack? Using my router to cut those 3/4" rabbets on the ends of the top piece doesn't concern me. For the dados, in my head I roughly thought I'd clamp a guide and also use the router, but how can I make repeatable and perfect dados on two pieces, especially when they're not the same length (the shelf piece is 3/4" shorter than the top piece)? 
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Feb 26, 2021 03:20
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Side question, because I inevitably see myself getting a dado stack at some point in the future... Because for this application the dados are cross cuts, I'd want to use a sled, but I don't want to ruin the zero clearance of the first cross cut sled I made, so... do folks make multiple sleds for different thicknesses of dado stacks!? (The reason I'm all about sleds is the miter gauge that came with my table saw is garbage and wiggles around substantially, wouldn't at all support a 4' work piece.) epswing fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 03:37
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epswing posted:What's a good strategy to cut these dados without a tablesaw + dado stack? Did you already cut the shelf and top piece? If you haven’t, can you cut them from the same piece of wood? That way you can clamp your router, make one pass for each and when you make your cut to split the shelf and top piece you know they will be lined up properly.
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Feb 26, 2021 03:44
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AFewBricksShy posted:Did you already cut the shelf and top piece? Or if you've already cut them, center one 3/4 in or whatever the offset is, clamp it, and go wild.
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Feb 26, 2021 04:48
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I've been restoring a #7 plane, and, having spent a couple hours on the iron, putting a nice ~9" radius on it and getting it wicked sharp... I've discovered the chipbreaker is too long. Even with the depth adjustment wheel bottomed out, and the chipbreaker as close to the bevel on the iron as I can possibly get it, there is no frog position in the mouth that doesn't leave the blade sticking at least an eight and usually as much as a quarter out of the mouth. From thinking about it and a bit of googling I've realized that since the chipbreaker is the piece that engages with the depth adjuster, it's the distance from the little slot in the chipbreaker to the leading edge of it that determines minimum extension of the iron in the mouth. Googling also suggests people fix this by either buying a replacement shorter one, or, grinding down the chipbreaker. Mine is the style with the curved end that gives a sort of "springloaded' pressure onto the iron, so if I grind it I'll be reducing that arced piece. I suppose that might be OK but I feel like I need to take at least a quarter inch off this thing and ideally maybe more, to give me actual room to adjust the iron all the way out of the mouth. That will eat a lot of that arc. I could try re-shaping the end, bending it up, etc? Just wondering if anyone here has done that before and if so, if there's any trick to it or if I should just go to town with my belt sander and then with my favorite ball peen hammer and metal vise and just like impose my will on the goddamn thing. Worst case scenario I have to replace it anyway but since I paid $35 for the whole plane I'm not super excited about spending nearly that much just for one replacement part for it.
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Feb 26, 2021 06:01
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epswing posted:What's a good strategy to cut these dados without a tablesaw + dado stack? I've seen a bunch of diy guides like these. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhZSS-VFf6Y I made a pair without the connecting cross pieces. Those just seem to add complexity that I don't need and I can get away with clamping two pieces independently (note to self, get more clamps). Mine are set up as guides for 1/4" and 1/2" straight bits as that's what I use.
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Feb 26, 2021 06:34
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Uthor posted:I've seen a bunch of diy guides like these. I built one of these and they're really, really useful for dados. Especially since we cant* use dado stacks over in the UK.
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Feb 26, 2021 08:40
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Oh my loving god im an idiot, this is a bevel down plane, disregard this stupid question
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Feb 26, 2021 09:43
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Leperflesh posted:Oh my loving god im an idiot, this is a bevel down plane, disregard this stupid question Lol. FWIW I was going to suggest maybe punching a new hole for the depth adjuster thingy to slot into.
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Feb 26, 2021 14:17
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serious gaylord posted:I built one of these and they're really, really useful for dados. Especially since we cant* use dado stacks over in the UK. I meant to include this photo of the absurdly simple design I'm using.  There's two, so I can clamp them on either side of the dado and just router out everything in between. Theoretically. I haven't used them that way in the week since I've made them, just as a straight edge guide.
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Feb 26, 2021 16:06
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Leperflesh posted:Oh my loving god im an idiot, this is a bevel down plane, disregard this stupid question I had the exact same issue with my #5 but I thought "surely no one would be as dumb as me and have the blade upside down, he must be talking about some other legitimate issue  "
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Feb 26, 2021 16:12
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Super Waffle posted:I had the exact same issue with my #5 but I thought "surely no one would be as dumb as me and have the blade upside down, he must be talking about some other legitimate issue Note the time stamp, I posted that from my kindle after midnight last night when I was supposed to be asleep. That was when it dawned on me. I haven't actually gone and checked, and honestly I think the drat thing is longer than it should be anyway, it's probably not the original. But when I get out to the garage later today I suspect I'll find it'll just barely fit.
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Feb 26, 2021 18:50
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Leperflesh posted:Note the time stamp, I posted that from my kindle after midnight last night when I was supposed to be asleep. That was when it dawned on me. I haven't actually gone and checked, and honestly I think the drat thing is longer than it should be anyway, it's probably not the original. But when I get out to the garage later today I suspect I'll find it'll just barely fit. Share some more of your adventures in making a cambered plane. I've been thinking about putting an 8 or 9 inch camber on an extra iron I have to convert one of my three no4s into a scrub. Specifically I bought this busted-rear end old smoothing plane and I've been scavenging it for parts, and its iron is narrower than the standard. I might camber that one and throw it into a 1980s era plastic knob black body no4 Stanley which has an notably wide mouth. So yeah share adventures.
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Feb 26, 2021 19:21
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Sure. So yeah first off, with the iron the right way round, it fits with the existing cap iron. Barely. I've got about a half-turn of travel in the adjustment knob before it starts to take a shaving. This would be more if I hadn't radiused the iron, because the chipbreaker needs to sit behind the uh, furthest back corners of the curve, if that makes sense? Basically though it'll work for now, but if have to remove more than another maybe 1/16" from this iron over time due to sharpening I'm going to run out of play and have to start grinding back the chipbreaker. Anyhoo. This plane was kinda rusty and both sides of the plane iron needed to be flattened for a while on various grits of sandpaper stuck to my stone tile I use for this sort of thing. Once I had the steel fairly clean, I had to cope with high spots on both leading corners - essentially you can fix this in two ways, either sand/grind down the entire surface to meet those low spots, or, grind back the edge far enough that they're gone. The first method thins the steel of the iron, the second grinds away the end, shortening the whole iron. Probably pluses and minuses to each method. But you want to be working with the thing flat to begin with. Then you need to put on the radius. I got mine by tying about eight or nine inches of string to a pencil, holding the string down, and drawing an arc on a surface. then transfer that arc to the plane iron in whatever way you feel like. It does not need to be perfect because I'm gonna be honest with you, you are not gonna get a perfect arc on the iron without some kind of fancy jig and I'm too lazy to try to do that. So I get my arc on the iron and then I take it to the grinder or to the bench sander and grind the arc into the iron. I always work with a cup of water and I do about one second of grinding and then dip. You need to keep the steel cold. If it gets warm enough to start to discolor you have already gotten too hot because that is a loss of the steel's hardness, you are in a tempering temperature as soon as you have a faint golden/amber color and if you see blue you've tempered to much softer than you want a blade edge to be. The thicker the iron the more mass you have absorbing heat, but I don't like to flirt with danger so I just go with one second as a good rule of thumb. You don't have to do this this way by the way, you can also hand-file your iron's radius, and in fact I find I can't get a really clean nice arc on a machine, so I just rough it out on the power tools and then clamp in a vise and use a good machist's file to clean it up. I keep comparing my blade to the arc I drew and based on that I get "close enough". Once you have your arc you gotta put on an edge and this is the tricky bit. You can't use a normal flat sharpening jig because that'll only sharpen the very tip of the arc. There's probably some other jig you can rig up to let you do the sweep of the curve but I figure this is a scrub plane for hogging off lots of material, it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect, so I just do it by hand with no jig. Same as sharpening any plane iron by hand, use whatever sandpaper or stones you got, but sweep back and forth across the curve and try to keep it the same angle of bevel across the whole edge. 100 grit, 120, 220, 400, 800, 1500, 10,000 is more than enough, you can go higher if you want but by this point you should have a mirror finish and a plenty sharp iron. Anyway that's a whole lot of words that amount to "just kinda wing it" but if you're like me you might be doing this once or twice a year? And I don't like to make jigs for something I'm rarely doing. Once it's sharp, maintaining the edge is as easy as stropping frequently and then occasionally going to your finer stone/paper and again, by hand, just work the flat usually, occasionally work the edge to keep your bevel.  e. oh yeah, 8" on a #7 plane seems super aggressive. I'm at around 9" and it looks like a pretty aggressive curve. I've seen 10" recommended as more of a norm. I'd suggest aiming for 9-10" ish, and don't sweat it if you don't get it exactly, and then maybe take more off if you decide that's just not aggressive enough. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 20:11
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First of all, thanks for humoring all my dumb questions. Second y'all were right, it it weren't 20ft of edge, a hand tool might have been a better idea. My 3D printed corner template worked well enough for the first 7 cuts. On the 8th cut it melted at the bearing and I gouged the hell out of the corner with the flush trim bit. At the end of the day ended up doing a ton of sanding to make things look ok, and tucking the fubar corner in the back. The general finish high performance satin poly was 100% the way to go. It looks super nice, and feels really nice to the touch.  Also lets me have my god awful huge supplier prints all spread out, plus sit or stand options. I couldn't be more pleased.
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Feb 26, 2021 20:53
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Leperflesh posted:Sure. thanks!
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Feb 26, 2021 20:56
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Sadi posted:First of all, thanks for humoring all my dumb questions. Second y'all were right, it it weren't 20ft of edge, a hand tool might have been a better idea. My 3D printed corner template worked well enough for the first 7 cuts. On the 8th cut it melted at the bearing and I gouged the hell out of the corner with the flush trim bit. At the end of the day ended up doing a ton of sanding to make things look ok, and tucking the fubar corner in the back. My friend, every one of us has a gently caress up hidden in the back corner. Good work
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Feb 26, 2021 21:13
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Leperflesh posted:A Good Post. I did a 10ish" radius on the iron in my #5. Maybe not aggressive enough to call it a scrub plane, but it wastes away material fast, especially when traversing, to taking off a maximum of about a skinny 1/16" each pass (any more and the shaving can't pass through the mouth anymore). I picked up a trick to sharpen a radiused blade using a sharpening jig from Chris Schwarz, and that's to put alternating pressure on the left and right side, rocking the jig as you sharpen. I've done it and it works, but with more aggressive radiuses it gets rather awkward, so I just freehand those.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:19
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