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Any good tips for getting boards and ripping them straight with a circular saw? Idea being get like, a 2x6 and ripping it down to a 2x4 size but with actual straight edges. I don't have a table saw sadly
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Apr 12, 2021 00:23
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KKKLIP ART posted:Any good tips for getting boards and ripping them straight with a circular saw? Idea being get like, a 2x6 and ripping it down to a 2x4 size but with actual straight edges. I don't have a table saw sadly Circular saws have rip guides.
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Apr 12, 2021 00:44
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The Locator posted:Grabbed one of my larger pieces of boxwood to start jointing the stuff that I am actually going to use to cut pieces from for my work... got everything set up, hit the power switch.. and nothing. /sigh.. Test it on another circuit just to make sure you didn't trip a breaker or something. Might just be defective, but it'll save you a lot of time if it's just something silly.
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Apr 12, 2021 00:52
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I'm building some new MDF cabinet fronts to replace some hosed up disasters in the new-to-us house we just bought and I did some test cuts and chamfers and I'm like really understanding why router tables exist right now after chamfering both sides of four pieces of MDF that are frankly not that large with my ryobi trim router and some clamps
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Apr 12, 2021 01:22
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more falafel please posted:Test it on another circuit just to make sure you didn't trip a breaker or something. Might just be defective, but it'll save you a lot of time if it's just something silly. Probably should have mentioned - I plugged a power drill into the same outlet and it works fine. I even pulled the plug from the cord-strip that they were both plugged into (after the drill was confirmed running) and plugged the jointer in directly... nada... It's exactly like a fuse blew, but there is no way that's true since the drill still works (and the power indicator on another cord-strip plugged into the same wall outlet is on). If there is an internal fuse on the jointer it's well hidden and not mentioned anywhere in the manual. My guess is that the cheap power-switch is broken internally, just because it feels strange and doesn't have a crisp 'break' when switched. It's a 4-terminal switch so I need to see if I can figure out how to jump it to check if I just need to replace the switch.
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Apr 12, 2021 01:55
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If you have a multimeter you can probe the switch contacts and see if it changes continuity when flipped. Might take a few tries to make sure you're checking the right contacts. I was going to recommend disassembling the switch to see if it's gummed up but if its brand new 
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Apr 12, 2021 02:22
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:If you have a multimeter you can probe the switch contacts and see if it changes continuity when flipped. Might take a few tries to make sure you're checking the right contacts. My multimeter bit the dust a while back and I keep forgetting to replace it, but I pulled the switch and it had the schematic on the side, it's a simple dual-pole design that is open/closed on each pair (4 wires). I stripped some solid-copper wire and jumped the two pairs so that they would be in the switch 'on' position (completely bypassing the switch) and plugged it in... nothing. Drill in same outlet still works... welp. Guessing there is some small electronic part either in the small circuit board for the variable speed, or in the large heat-sinked area that gave up it's magic smoke for some reason. It's just so strange that it fired up and worked perfectly for the 'see if it works' run, and then again for the 'test the adjustments' run, and then.. nada. Normally I would expect it to fail during a run, or if it failed on start, make at least a small sound and smell of electronics magic-smoke, but there was nothing.
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Apr 12, 2021 03:30
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I got to spend a couple of hours today on a work in progress. I bought this router on super sale from blow’s and havent used it much. I had forgotten how much fun they are. It’s a coffee table for my loft.  
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Apr 12, 2021 03:36
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The Locator posted:Probably should have mentioned - I plugged a power drill into the same outlet and it works fine. I even pulled the plug from the cord-strip that they were both plugged into (after the drill was confirmed running) and plugged the jointer in directly... nada... Do you guys not have fuses in the plugs over in the US?
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Apr 12, 2021 07:09
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I think the only country that does that is the UK, because of ring mains.
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Apr 12, 2021 07:31
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serious gaylord posted:Do you guys not have fuses in the plugs over in the US? You can buy them but they’re unusual.
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Apr 12, 2021 08:22
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Regardless of the dumbassery of ring mains it's still a great idea. Isn't it?
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Apr 12, 2021 10:23
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So you're telling me other countries don't use residual current devices in their mains power?
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Apr 12, 2021 12:03
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McSpergin posted:So you're telling me other countries don't use residual current devices in their mains power? Usually only in the bathroom
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Apr 12, 2021 12:21
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Bathrooms and kitchens. We call them ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) here. Some folks are a little more paranoid and have them on any circuit with a plug on it that could conceivably end up near water (all of the outlets in my basement and shop/garage are on GFCI breakers) but that's unusual.
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Apr 12, 2021 14:12
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tracecomplete posted:Some folks are a little more paranoid and have them on any circuit with a plug on it that could conceivably end up near water (all of the outlets in my basement and shop/garage are on GFCI breakers) but that's unusual. They're getting more and more common as a code requirement, I think. When I built my workshop, the city classed it as a garage and required all the circuits to be GFCI protected.
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Apr 12, 2021 14:22
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Our house is old and not up to the current Australian wiring code but during the building and pest inspection when we bought it they recommended we upgrade it. All it means is we change the fuses in the fuse box over to RCD's but we also have a several thousand dollar list of work (I just want a single 15A outlet in the garage so I can get 15A equipment and run my mig), and better garage lighting
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Apr 12, 2021 14:39
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tracecomplete posted:Bathrooms and kitchens. We call them ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) here. This is a code requirement now
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Apr 12, 2021 14:41
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McSpergin posted:So you're telling me other countries don't use residual current devices in their mains power? GFCIs as said, they're in the breaker panel and connected to the outlets, nothing in the plug here in europe. I don't really think it's necessary. I think every single phase outlet in our house (2013) is GFCI.
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Apr 12, 2021 14:45
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Then there's AFCIs which are more to prevent arcing that can cause fires. Industrial pigtails with GFCI circuits for work in construction areas and in some common bathroom appliances like plugs for hair dryers are also pretty standard in the US.
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Apr 12, 2021 15:28
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serious gaylord posted:Do you guys not have fuses in the plugs over in the US? That doesn't really have anything to do with his jointer not working though? edit- also, c'mon man, there's 1 gun per capita in this country. In case someone grounds themselves on a live circuit, you're supposed to put them out of their misery.
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Apr 12, 2021 17:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:That doesn't really have anything to do with his jointer not working though? I was wondering if he was missing a fuse in the plug which would be my primary suspicion for something working then suddenly not over here.
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Apr 12, 2021 19:30
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I need a way to sharpen my chisels. I was looking at this honing guide: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/veritas-mk-ii-honing-guide It's a little pricey, but seems like it would work best for me (the angle setting guide appeals to me and the way my brain works). I do have a digital angle finder, so maybe a basic guide would be alright instead? I was also going to get this stone kit as it's very affordable: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/6-x2x1-2-hard-blk-hard-soft-3-stone-kit Anything wrong with those or something that I'm missing? However, I've also seen this system utilizing a glass plate recommended: https://www.rockler.com/plate-glass-sharpening-system-fine Not sure how much I like having to buy replacement sticky sand paper. I wonder what the longevity would be and it it's cost effective.
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Apr 12, 2021 20:09
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I've got the Veritas guide and I like it, fairly simple and easy. The little micro bevel setting is a cool touch. Initially I used the glass plate method but settled on a pair of water stones and a nagura stone.
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Apr 12, 2021 20:17
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serious gaylord posted:I was wondering if he was missing a fuse in the plug which would be my primary suspicion for something working then suddenly not over here. My own thought is maybe a lead contact to the motor is loose and was jarred by the move, since I think he indicated trying to hotwire the switch and got nothing.
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Apr 12, 2021 20:32
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Uthor posted:I need a way to sharpen my chisels. I was looking at this honing guide: I really like my Mk ii, a bit bulky, but it does a great job, super consistent, which is what you want for sharpening. Lee Valley also just released a side clamp honing guide https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/guides/111759-veritas-side-clamping-honing-guide?item=05M0940 not as versatile as the Mk ii and you'd need to make a setup guide, but depending on what you plan to sharpen you can save a few bucks. edit: I looked at those stones and while they would be adequate, they are only 2" wide, so doing wide plane blades would be a huge pain. I'd save yourself the trouble and get 3" wide stones now because you're going to get them eventually. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 21:15
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The mark 2 guide is nice but also overkill. I like it
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Apr 12, 2021 22:05
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Mr. Mambold posted:My own thought is maybe a lead contact to the motor is loose and was jarred by the move, since I think he indicated trying to hotwire the switch and got nothing. Whatever it was, it's their problem now, took it back and got a new one after work today. Now have to find the time to put this one all together and hope it keeps working! I agree based on how it stopped working that there was either a wire that came loose internally, or it poofed a small electronic part somewhere. Since it was brand new I was unwilling to disassemble it enough to figure it out.
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Apr 13, 2021 05:03
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Glued up a desk top made with leftover white oak flooring today for my kid and with my kid on his spring break. He helped put the pieces in their places and I’m happy to have a work area again where I don’t need 35’ of extension cord and to carry all my tools through 4 rooms to get outside to use them. I’m hoping to get the body and legs built and glued up this week too, so this will be a fun week.
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Apr 13, 2021 19:29
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So, I've determined that the most cost-effective way to do my woodworking project is to make a block out of laminated plywood or something like that, and then carve out the shape that I want. I am now needing to think about a couple of things with it. 1- With wood selection, plywood will allow me to just do away with planing stuff before lamination, I think, because it should all be flat already. I don't really want to deal with dimensioning stuff, and dimensional lumber is more expensive. This is really only a concern because I feel like it will be cheaper than buying a bigass block of something else, given that the dimensions should be like 16"x10"x4" for the block before carving it. I am concerned that if I go with plywood, then I might get some lovely plywood that has gaps or something like that in the middle layer, which would mean I'd have to do gap-filling. I don't want to deal with wood quality issues. Is there a different kind of wood I should consider? If I am right with my concern with bad plywood for this project, are there types of plywood I should look for, or do you think I should just get dimensional lumber and make a box so I don't have to really core it in the first place, given it would be less material and supposedly less cost? 2- The reason I'm not really concerned with it being plywood is because I plan to paint the thing. I'm not interested in having a nice stain or whatever for this particular project, just paint. Depending on the wood I use and the paint I use, should I bother with a coat between the sanded wood surface and paint I apply to it, before putting a topcoat on? Side note with this, anyone have any recommendations for a topcoat that is both high durability and as low gloss as possible?
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Apr 13, 2021 20:08
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If you're going to paint it just laminate some mdf together. Void free. If you're power carving it do it outside.
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Apr 14, 2021 00:36
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So, I snapped a router bit tonight trying to rout some slots in a piece of acrylic, a little less than 1/4" thick. I was using a Ryobi 1/4" straight bit in a makita cordless trim router. I probably should have been taking it in more than one pass. I think it the chips were melting and mixing with the chips from the backing piece of plywood I had it on, and they hardened around the bit or something? It just... broke off, it didn't go flying or anything, but I must have done something wrong, so I'd like to figure out what.
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Apr 14, 2021 05:08
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more falafel please posted:So, I snapped a router bit tonight trying to rout some slots in a piece of acrylic, a little less than 1/4" thick. I was using a Ryobi 1/4" straight bit in a makita cordless trim router. I probably should have been taking it in more than one pass. I think it the chips were melting and mixing with the chips from the backing piece of plywood I had it on, and they hardened around the bit or something? more passes, slower speed, check your bit often for build up. A rule of thumb in wood is passes no deeper than half the shank size. Acrylic will want to melt and clog up so I'd cut in half again at 1/8" passes and slow the speed down to prevent heat build up. Check out CNC speed and feeds for acrylic and you can figure out what will work best.
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Apr 14, 2021 05:55
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more falafel please posted:So, I snapped a router bit tonight trying to rout some slots in a piece of acrylic, a little less than 1/4" thick. I was using a Ryobi 1/4" straight bit in a makita cordless trim router. I probably should have been taking it in more than one pass. I think it the chips were melting and mixing with the chips from the backing piece of plywood I had it on, and they hardened around the bit or something? You shouldn't be using a trim router to do that sort of stuff. It's possible sure, but it's not powerful enough really. High chance of the bit getting stuck and flying across the room. Or even worse the router jumps and comes back down on your hand. A proper plunge router would be best. Much safer. More control and you can use 1/2 shank bits which are more robust.
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Apr 14, 2021 12:24
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Is that half shank rule of thumb for hardwood? I am trying to figure how dumb I been cutting 1/2” deep grooves with a single pass in pine with my Dewalt trim router.
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Apr 14, 2021 13:11
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Calidus posted:Is that half shank rule of thumb for hardwood? I am trying to figure how dumb I been cutting 1/2” deep grooves with a single pass in pine with my Dewalt trim router. I've been doing that for a long time and then last week the bit snapped because I shouldn't have been doing that.
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Apr 14, 2021 13:33
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Calidus posted:Is that half shank rule of thumb for hardwood? I am trying to figure how dumb I been cutting 1/2” deep grooves with a single pass in pine with my Dewalt trim router.
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Apr 14, 2021 13:56
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It depends a whole lot on species/hardness and your router bit. Spiral bits cut and clear chips a lot more efficiently for the most part and can usually handle a deeper cut. Even with plain straight bits, a really sharp one make heavy cut better than a dull one etc. What kind of bit should I use for clearing out MDF?
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Apr 14, 2021 14:26
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signalnoise posted:What kind of bit should I use for clearing out MDF?
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Apr 14, 2021 14:57
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Right on, thanks!
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Apr 14, 2021 15:29
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