Feenix posted:My first official piece of furniture... I’ve only done some flower boxes before. (Also my first time using pocket holes, staining, protecting, using a table saw, buying and working with marble... LOL!) Looks great. What all did you do with the marble?
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Jan 1, 2018 04:44
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I had a couple of general questions. I got a bunch of the Taunton's manuals suggested in the OP and am reading up on a good bit before eventually starting up on building a few things. I have to wait until sometime later this year / early next until we move to really start fitting out a shop and building some simple 1st projects so for now it's just reading and maybe looking for steals on used or discounted smaller tools that I can store away until the move. Ideally I'd like to build some fairly simplistic dining room, coffee and end tables and possibly some mud room bench chests and a few other storage things like some book cases, maybe a small wetbar cabinet + table etc. From reading through the books so far I'm having a tough time knowing exactly how far to go in regards to tools to get. I won't have a massive amount of shop space so I am not sure if I can get large floor model tools for many things. I was thinking for certain I should get a table saw, router table and miter saw. I also want to get a drill press, but more for other non-woodworking projects. Are there any other non-portable / non-hand tool larger format stuff that would be considered a 'must get' for the stuff I am looking to build some day?
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Jan 9, 2018 18:54
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Thanks for the info all. I was also kinda looking on the level of Ana White pattern type stuff also (as that's far more likely for me to actually successfully build right now) and I hadn't even considered a track saw vs a table saw but for what I'm looking into the utility is definitely there. Any suggestions on 'must have' hand tools vs ones that are not worth getting early on? I was looking at used hand planers and used or new chisel sets and probably should get a couple of hand saw varieties as well. Those at least are things I can shop for over the year and toss into a tool chest until I move to a place with a better room to work in.
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Jan 10, 2018 14:36
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Thanks all. Is there anywhere to pick up the anarchist design book that's not $100? That's what I'm seeing so far on a 1st look.
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Jan 11, 2018 13:55
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Atticus_1354 posted:It's under $60 for the pdf and book at lost art press. Thanks!
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Jan 11, 2018 14:35
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Jaded Burnout posted:full time woodist. You'd want to see a doctor about that anyway.
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Jan 12, 2018 22:10
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Jaded Burnout posted:I know, I did this. Please don’t take this the wrong way but I didn’t ask for help with that. Don't get jaded or burn out ok?  After reading through the Anarchist Design book as well as Vic Tesolin's The Minimalist Woodworker I think I have decided that I'd like to go with an entirely (or almost entirely) non-powered shop setup. I'm doing this just as a pastime and to make some stuff for myself and learn as I go, and going that route seems quite appealing. So, I've been shopping for a mix of used and new tools and will doubtlessly have many questions as that unfolds. One I had right away was what peoples impressions were of Lufkin tools? While looking for Starrett squares, compasses etc I also see Lufkin ones of similar age and style popping up and was curious if they were worth considering. Any other 'gems' of old/used hand tools would be appreciated. Nothing much to choose from on my local craigslist, so mostly sticking to eBay to get the used things. I'd love to get just all premium / awesome right from the start but honestly I can't commit that much all at once and would gladly sub in a few '2nd best' things that were not mission critical to get started with and then spend more as I find out the things I really rely on the most, etc.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:40
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Tres Burritos posted:This is kinda how I started and every time I buy a new powertool I just look back and go "What the gently caress was I thinking, christ this is so much easier". Hahah yeah I imagine that may happen but for now at least I am working and storage space limited and have no practical woodworking skills outside of taking woodshop in the mid 90s. It seems like a place to start from that will hold my interest for now. Already been diving into dozens of plans and envisioning things I'd modify them into / simple versions of things I could potentially make right away. Was chatting with the wife about it last night at a restaurant and sketching out a low end table that we use to store plants on during the winter and making a version with a raised rail around it (since the cats knock off said houseplants with remarkable efficiency).
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Jan 18, 2018 22:56
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ColdPie posted:I wrote about this a while back, http://www.smokingonabike.com/2017/01/01/hand-tools-for-a-newbie-woodworker/ Thanks! Bookmarked and I've actually been reading the Wood and Shop articles for the past 2 days or so of vacation.
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Jan 19, 2018 02:34
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So I had asked around in here months ago about reading materials and a few other general beginner questions and ya'll were super helpful. I ended up buying a ton of books recommended in the OP and by others and have spent most of my time going through The Anarchists Design book and Vic Tesolin's The Minimalist Woodworker after deciding I wanted to set up and run a totally non-powered shop. After happening upon a Craigslist sale run by a 75 yr old 3rd generation carpenter in my area I spent way too much money (but met a fantastic resource, seriously he spent 20 yrs teaching underpriveliged kids carpentry classes on the side and offered to teach me stuff whenever I wanted since he's retired and bored). Anyway, I got a few things from him, some from eBay and some from Amazon after using a few thread provided resources and recommendations. I'm planning on building a Nicholson knockdown workbench (living in a rental house for a year, shops gonna move after that) and I just got all the recommended lumber off the list from a Lowe's nearby. At the bottom of the stacks they actually had some pretty clear stuff and I managed to get 2-3 pieces that were very clear and a few others that were less clear but unbowed / not split and I can supposedly use them for the legs and aprons. Anyway, on to some questions: 1. How long should I let this wood acclimate in the shop area before doing anything with it? It's mostly all pine 2"x12" x 6', the guy on the floor said the 2x12 stock had been inside for nearly a month. I live in New England and it's cold and dry here, if that matters. 2. Without having a functional workbench, how does one go about planing stock 'good enough' to get this bench going? I'd mostly been going off the advice from books and from Chris Schwarz here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_96gNMMc_g 3. Any other tips / warnings for an almost completely novice person to know before taking on this project? I'm good mechanically with a lot of stuff and prepared to gently caress everything up and start over, just wondering if for this specific effort if there are some good lessons others might be able to share. Ultimately I want to build some interior stuff for the house (shoe racks, a few storage boxes, gardening bench and a few plant tables with rails to keep the cats from tipping things over, etc).
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Mar 19, 2018 01:06
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GEMorris posted:K, so if you don't have a bench the progression goes: Thanks. Going back through The Minimalist Woodworker there's a seemingly simple plan and instructions for a saw bench + saw bent in there. Guess I will make those 1st on a pair of buckets.
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Mar 19, 2018 18:31
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ColdPie posted:FWIW a sheet of 3/4" plywood along with some F-clamps can make a good-enough work bench until you have a better one. I built several pieces of furniture like that. You can use a couple screws into the top to make a serviceable planing stop, and the F-clamps coupled with some scrap can do most other workholding tasks not-terribly. Thanks! I have a flat wood top tool cabinet on casters that I mounted a 3" vise to the end of it with softjaws on it. That has served me well for hobbyist gunsmithing / metalworking stuff. It was fine to hold up my 1x12 stock for cross cutting and for planing on the 1" side of the boards. I think I'll screw down a shim on one side of the wood top to use as a planing stop for now when I have to work the board faces. Last night I marked out all my pieces on the floor, made all my crosscuts as mentioned above and all my rips just putting them on a chair and using my knee and opposite hand. Longest item I had to rip was 24". Felt pretty good. Outside of one term of woodshop >20 years ago I think this is the 1st time I've ever hand sawed anything. I used my chisel to make saw grooves for the crosscuts and despite scoring down the measurement line I had a good bit of tearout on the backside of each board. I was using a cheap lovely crosscut saw that I had in my random toolkit, but I have a (hopefully) decent Disston D-8 filed for crosscut and an old Sandvik ripsaw arriving later this week. I planned on building two of these anyway, so the 1st one was just to get hands on the wood and tools and see where I hosed up. My board ends are pretty rough, so much so that I'm scared to use a plane on them yet. I had read / youtubed that I should chamfer the edges then very finely start planing the end grain down, but these are pretty gnarly ends. Should I hit them with a coarse file 1st, then chamfer, then plane? Just wondering what a good order of operations are for taking a pretty messy face down to something suitable to start planing on.
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Mar 20, 2018 13:47
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GEMorris posted:Do you have a shooting board or a bench hook? Both of those appliances will make planning the end grain of a board much easier. However it's even easier to just use a good saw, so hopefully your other saws that are on the way will do a cleaner job. I have neither of those but plan to build them along with a Nicholson Bench. I can probably start working on a shooting board now and clamp it to my current benchtop on the toolchest. My bench vise is holding the boards well enough though but not going to be used once the Nicholson is done. And yes, I'm planning on an entirely unpowered shop. I'm not building much volume of stuff, doing it as a hobby so going about it using older methods seemed like a fun thing to do.
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Mar 20, 2018 16:28
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 Fitted everything together before making some angle cut outs down to the feet on each side panel. I learned a poo poo ton while putting this together so far about tool use, behavior of the wood etc. Lots more to learn but this was definitely fun and a better workout than I expected. I cut half of the inserts (lap?) on the side plates with a hammer and chisel alone for practice and the other half with a box saw and a coping saw then cleaned them up with a chisel afterwards. It's actually level on my rubber mat as-is and the corners are actually pretty square! It could be a bit better, but it's not glued and screwed yet so I wasn't gonna stress for now. I'm just glad it actually all fit and seems like it will be a functional thing I built. It's been 20+ years since I built some random crap in wood shop and haven't touched any woodworking stuff since. 
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Mar 21, 2018 19:24
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So I used Paul Sellers video on how to sharpen saws on my ancient Sandvik crosscut saw that I got the other day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fNosQU1Ujg And well, holy poo poo now I can see why all the guys in videos etc just effortlessly cut things and why I was also have a lot of tearout issues and rough edges before. This is awesome! Also, as a total beginner I've really liked Paul Sellers youtube channel. He's quite thorough and typically goes through a few different methods to accomplish the same goal using a variety of tools. Really makes it nice for me since I am juuust starting to build up a small collection of tools and might not have the 'best' one for the job just yet.
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Mar 23, 2018 00:17
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Falcon2001 posted:As someone who came from the same place...just take Sellers with a grain of salt. Thanks. I have done a lot of other DIY stuff from the ground up in the past so I just kinda took that on assumption about skills vs reality and didn't immediately think 'oh thats easy'. I've definitely sought out other places for info too, ie Chris Schwarz has a very good video on prepping / planing rough stock that I have used a bit also. I have just kinda liked the quality and pacing of Sellers stuff so far and when I've needed to find a video on a basic thing it's delivered almost constantly so far.
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Mar 23, 2018 00:56
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Also if you have the wrong angle when sharpening something you will completely blow the edge out so something will seem sharp but then won't hold its edge for any length of time. The angle relative to the sides of the sawblade or relative to the top? I did as he had it set up in the video and built two wooden guides and sketched in 65 degree lines on each side and then again in the opposite direction and followed that as faithfully as I could manage. Fortunately I have a ton of experience with metal filing, just none with carpentry, so that whole step was pretty comfortable compared to everything else so far. I guess I'll wait and see how well it holds up. Any way to gauge how long it would be if it's good vs bad? Not even sure what units of time / cuts to use here.
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Mar 23, 2018 01:00
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So I finished up the bench and bent from the minimalist woodworker book and they came out ok! Hand cut / chiseled my 1st mortise and tenons ever. They are pretty rough and the tenons are a bit too narrow so they fit into the mortises fairly loosely but I learned a lot as I went about how to handle them better. Plus I think the singular crosscut backsaw I own just isn't really up to it, but it's probably just that I suck right now. On the upside, it all came out quite square and level! Also, it functions and I can use it to build more stuff. Next up I'll build a shooting board and then start on the Nicholson workbench. Pretty fun! 
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Mar 24, 2018 21:27
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Is it common to get a lot of variation within the same species of wood? I am cutting 2"x12"s down for my Nicholson workbench with handsaws and yesterday had little issues with freshly sharpened saws. Did more or less the same cuts today on a different 2x12 and it was massively harder in the sense that the blade kept jamming up, there was a lot of drag the whole time etc. I even put in a shim upstream into the kerf and that barely made a difference. I don't think my saws lost their edge from just a few cuts on a single 2x12x6' yesterday. Just was curious as it was substantially more difficult with this one board, all were white pine, relatively clear, this one had a little tighter grain than the last, but not tremendously different to my untrained eye.
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Mar 29, 2018 02:00
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Were these the handsaws you bought used and sharpened yourself or is it a new tool? It sounds to me like one side is more sharp than the other if you're getting some variation in your cut. It could be technique? I bought them used and sharpened them myself. But, I had cut a few of the same dimension pieces before sharpening and this was even more laborious than those cuts and much more than the cuts I made with the sharpened saws, using both a ~7pt crosscut and ~8pt rip. I'll know for sure tonight when I go back and cut a separate piece again with them. If they are still tough then it's likely the saws. I am betting on the wood though as they were cutting great all the day before and the difference was pretty instant when moving to another piece. My technique is definitely sloppy since I am a literal beginner and I'm sure that will improve. Was just curious since it was like working with something totally different compared to 24h before. It wasn't pressure treated either.
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Mar 29, 2018 09:48
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ColdPie posted:Bad technique will definitely cause that. If you're wandering or twisting in the cut, you're going to be getting a lot more friction than if you are cutting straight in the kerf. It's also helpful to wipe a little paraffin wax on the blade before a long cut. It ended up being definitely just that particular board. I went back last night and finished up all the remaining cuts for my Nicholson bench and things went back to being relatively smooth except for when I had to rip a few pieces from that same stock.
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Mar 30, 2018 16:03
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I'd like to get some advice on joinery for a simple(ish) thing I'd like to build. We have a shoe rack by the front door that takes up a bit of space and I'd like to take up that same footprint with something a little more useful. I just sketched up a quick 2D model, the depth of this will be about 15" from the outside measurements.  Basically, vertical stringers are 2"x2", planks for the shelves are going to be 1"x8" and the stringers running underneath the shelves are 1"x2". As sketched this is using mortise and tenon construction with the shelves glued into the top of each stretcher (may brad them in). The entire thing isn't going to be loaded with much weight at all, so it doesn't need much load bearing, so before I do a shitload of mortise and tenon cuts I was wondering if there was some other type of joinery others might recommend?
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Mar 31, 2018 01:14
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Thanks! Yeah will probably do it the lazy way since this isn't gonna be holding much more than shoes and a few cloth boxes full of hats, gloves etc. Just wanted an entryway shelving unit that fit in the same footprint as the shoe rack and had a little better vertical storage space. Seemed like a simplish project that wouldn't cost a ton if I gently caress up and it's just needed in the rental for a year, can probably ditch it when we move if it comes out looking like poo poo (it probably will).
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Mar 31, 2018 02:39
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I've found an issue that sucks to deal with and being super naive on all this stuff am wondering if there's an easy solution or not. I'm doing my final dimensioning on my 2x12"x6' boards for the Nicholson bench I am building. For a few boards so far I've got like 3/16" or 1/4" of overhang to crosscut off the ends. The problem I run into is that just crosscutting it off with my larger crosscut saw ends up forming a kerf and starting the cut and as soon as I get 1/4" or so deep on the cut I am starting the end portion starts to snap or flake off. Once this happens I can't keep sawing and have to form another kerf, rinse and repeat and it takes forever and I end up with like 1 little section at the corner cut to size. Doing it this way to cut the entire end off would take a very long time. I don't have a backsaw tall or long enough to nibble off the end either. Right now I am chiseling it off and that seems to be working but again, quite labor intensive so am wondering if there is a better way, or just any tips on a quicker way to chisel off the end of a board maybe. I don't have any power tools etc. Any ideas? This has popped up a few times and it ends up eating up like 80% of my time compared to the rest of the dimensioning work.
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Mar 31, 2018 19:13
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Falcon2001 posted:I'm not really picturing this correctly; is the issue just that you're cutting off a very small amount at the end and it's causing it to break off? I think maybe putting a sacrificial board clamped to the other one might help. Thanks for the reminder about the glueup, I had read that somewhere also but had totally forgotten about it. I will likely glueup the benchtop tonight. You got it, I am just cutting off a small amount at the end and once a good enough kerf is established to start crosscutting at speed the end breaks off just even with however deep the saw cut is (not very) and I have to restart the whole process. Very tedious and the cut comes out pretty bad. GEMorris posted:Shoot the ends with a plane (chamfer the back edge first) or use a straightedge with a router. That'd be endgrain planing 2"x12" to about a 1/4" depth. I tried this actually and it's still faster just using the chisels in that case (at least with my current setup of just some tiny knee high saw benches I built).
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Mar 31, 2018 22:16
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GEMorris posted:You can also use a straightedge with a circular saw. The exact situation you are describing is just difficult for hand tools to deal with. Either leave more excess so that you have support on both sides of the kerf or get your cuts spot on from the beginning. All of the solutions require either electrons or a lot of time. It's not a big deal, but now you know. Yep, thanks! Figured that was the case. I had the 12' boards cut at the big box stores so I could fit them in the car and one half of each is spot on but the other halves of each is a tiny bit long.
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Mar 31, 2018 22:47
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Leperflesh posted:Would it help to clamp something (a chunk of wood) to the end, not like, squeezing the cut shut, but just to back up the sliver of wood you're cutting off so it doesn't flex and then flake off? Thanks, you and another person above had mentioned this. I'll try this or use the coping saw where it's more applicable next time. Just was looking for options here as the current process sucks up waaaaaay more time than anything else I am doing, wondered if there was a better way I did not think of yet.
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Apr 1, 2018 13:16
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Embrace non-Euclidian geometry. On that hard to cut board I had a while back, while I was working over another part of it I found a very tiny stamp on it that said 'White Fir". I guess this got slipped into the yellow pine 2x12" stack. The grain and color were a bit off from the others, but I haven't worked with enough stock to know if that was normal variation etc. Like, I can tell if its red oak or cedar, but these were a bit closer.  I guess?
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Apr 2, 2018 17:42
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Tim Thomas posted:pretty much all construction lumber is sold as spf so your 2 x 12 might be pine, fir, or spruce depending on the region, the size of the board, etc Gotcha. I did not know that about mixing species. Figured pine was all going to be pine, especially since they had separate lots for poplar etc. Either way the bench is coming together, had a few hiccups and a few things I'd do differently next time but so far it's coming out level, square, and pretty ugly. 
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Apr 2, 2018 22:01
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So the bench is nearing completion:   One odd thing was after laminating the top, gluing and screwing and letting it sit clamped for 36h (after gluing and clamping the two top pieces edge to edge for 24h) it started to separate a bit. I bolted the table down after making the aprons and legs as co-planar as I could. The very top boards now have about a 1/16 to 1/8" gap between them. There's no flex or wobble anywhere, just those came apart a tiiiiny bit. Personally I wouldn't worry over it, but wanted to mention it to see if it might be a future problem and if I should consider filling in the gap with glue or something? As is it's nicely level, one tiny rise near the middle on one side but otherwise it's awesome. Looking down the top lengthwise there's about a 1/8" dip in the middle, so I'll need to plane down the outside edges and there's no obvious twist, so it seems like the planing will be much less than I was anticipating. After that I need to chisel out a spot for the large planing stop, then auger in 3/4" holdfast holes and then build and mount a crochet for the front side of it and then give it a coat of linseed. Should have it all done and operational this weekend and I can start on building a wall rack for some more tool storage! Everything except some of the drilling was done completely unpowered. I had to use my cordless drill for some of the drilling to set the 3/8" bolts and the hollows around them since the bits I had for that were too large for my eggbeater drill and weren't compatible with the brace I had.
That Works fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Apr 4, 2018 |
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Apr 4, 2018 15:03
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Hypnolobster posted:Leg vises are awesome and I'll never understand the weird disdain some people have for them. Got a link to an example of this hardware? New to this
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Apr 4, 2018 17:41
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Or if you don't want to put in all that effort for a vise (like me) you can just use one of these guys: http://a.co/603Udiz GEMorris posted:Yep, a screw like this along with a paralell guide and pin is all you really need. There are nicer slicker options, but you can get a leg vise added on the cheap. Do either of you have a pic of how you ended up mounting it to your bench? Just trying to think of ways to set up something like this. Also, looking into using some other types of vices as well. Money isn't a giant factor, I am not wealthy but I don't mind spending a bit on something that I recognize as being fairly important either. In addition to your uses, was wondering about how feasible / difficult it would be to mount a quick release vise like one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Eclipse-EW...nch%2Bvise&th=1 Just wondering if cost was less of an option if that might be a good alternative to a leg vise or if there were inherent flaws in using one that I am not considering, etc. I liked the idea of a holdfast only bench, and will go with that in the interim, but open to other options that will be fairly simple to install on the KD Nicholson bench design.
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Apr 4, 2018 21:59
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Hypnolobster posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjecdEB7qaU Awesome, thanks for the info. I've been looking into this now and one type that piqued my interest was this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyRcdhpsGwA Can use the same screw type as the leg vise you linked. I was curious if there was any disadvantage to this design vs a leg vise? Both seem within the realm of something I could do, but had no idea if one was preferred over the other or why if so.
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Apr 4, 2018 22:41
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Is it common for holdfasts to not hold very well initially? I cut my 1st 3/4" hole into the top with my auger last night to test one out just before bed. I hammered it in pretty good but it didn't hold down a piece of 3/4 inch board worth a drat. Googled around a bit and found that sanding / filing the stem of the holdfast could help. I just spent a little time running a strip of 100 grit around the stem and it seems to have improved somewhat, but it's still a bit slippery. Before I go and take a coarse file to it I figured I'd ask here in case there was another problem I might be missing. The laminated benchtop is about 3" thick at the point of this hole. I hand augered it with a brace and I might have not been perfectly steady. The hole doesn't seem to be sloppy or oblong though, so I am hoping that's not it but figured I'd ask before I go and drill a bunch of possibly useless holes into the top.  In better news I got the planing stop hole mortised in and it's quite snug and sturdy. Might switch over to a laminated bit of red oak instead so it looks nicer on the bench than the current stop I have. Parts for a screw vise of some kind are arriving by Monday. Still deciding if I should use a leg vise or a large horizontal face vise off the side of the apron. Honestly it seems like the leg vise may be a bit more sturdy, but I kinda think they are ugly and I like the idea of having a much larger horizontal surface area to grab with for a face vise setup. But, I don't know poo poo about poo poo here so if this still sounds like a bad idea please feel free to weigh in.
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Apr 6, 2018 11:15
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GEMorris posted:I've already weighed in with my preference for leg vises. I also think they look better, so Thanks. Yeah I am like 60/40 on the vise choices and its mostly just on looks. For some reason I just don't like the look of the leg vise all that much. With the wood / equipment I have on hand I can build it either way once the parts show up so will continue to think it over.
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Apr 6, 2018 12:22
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GEMorris posted:I've already weighed in with my preference for leg vises. I also think they look better, so I snagged a pair of those and they showed up this morning, did not expect that fast of a turnaround. Yes, they are really much better. Thanks for the recommendation. I am finishing up the bench and while waiting on the vise parts to arrive have started building a wall mounted tool shelf / hanging rack type thing and have a bunch of fairly poorly dimensioned red oak 1x8" stock to work with. It's got a pretty gnarly cap across the middle of the board (like 1/4" or so above what would be a flat face). For cleaning up rough stock I'd been kinda loosely following a video from Chris Schwartz that was pretty detailed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_96gNMMc_g One thing he does though is use a cambered jack (scrub?) plane to go across the board. I only have a Stanley 4 and 5 and a really large antique wood joiner plane with a massive iron on it. None of them have a cambered blade. Without this type of plane should I still try to even out the face with say the #5 as is? Or, is there a better way to do it apart from just buying a dedicated scrub plane? Just wondering if the benefit is worth investing in another tool again so quickly or not. I tried to just knock down the middle with the joiner plane by successive passes with the grain down the middle of the board. That worked more or less but it took loving forever for just a single 1x8"x22" board and I've got to do like 5 of those so just wondering if I need to suck it up and accept the time spent or not.
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Apr 8, 2018 03:59
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Awesome, good to know! Was not sure if I needed to widen the throat as well, possibly necessitating a while other plane.
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Apr 8, 2018 05:45
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Since we are kinda on the subject already, Any recommendations on chip breaker and camber settings for a giant old joinery plane? Here's the setup I have:  When I bought it the blade was ground with no camber and I just honed it flat and straight as is. It works, but I've not been able to find a good middle ground when using it. It either just baaaarely takes out a few thin un even shavings, or it's gouging out stuff way too thick and leading to tearout / really binds up on any small knots in the wood. The blade itself is sharp, but I am wondering if I have the chip breaker set too close for this type of plane. A lot of it is due to me still learning how to adjust these kinda planes with a hammer etc I am sure, but was curious about the iron and chip breaker config as well.
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Apr 8, 2018 14:31
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Thanks all, super helpful. Decided to go ahead and put in a leg vise instead of face, so gonna start working on that today.
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Apr 8, 2018 15:44
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| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 09:35 |
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I am starting to plan out the 1st thing I actually want to build that is not a sawbench, workbench or tool storage device of some kind, ie the poo poo I wanted to actually learn some woodworking to build in the 1st place. We have an entryway and a lovely shoerack near it and this was designed to fit into that same dimensional space and provide a bit more vertical storage on the end butting up against the wall. Apologies for the sloppiness of this sketchup model but I am still just learning to use it. However you should see more or less what I am trying to do. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/c1b9b57f-306b-4736-a7e1-b7a64732eb90/Shoera The entire thing is made out of (maybe) red oak 2x2" vertical and horizontal stringers that are attached by dowels. The horizontal faces are (maybe) pine 1x6" boards and anchored to the horizontal stringers also by dowels. Just wondering if anyone can see any potential problems with this in regards to stability, needless difficulty, or something that I am lacking in the design that should be there. It's not going to hold massive amounts of weight etc, just shoes and a couple of fabric boxes that will hold gloves, hats scarves etc. I may elect to make the very top surface a solid plate instead of the two separate boards, so I can put random small things on there (keys) without risk of falling through.
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Apr 11, 2018 15:46
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