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Get a riving knife, cost be damned.
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Jan 1, 2014 10:42
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Router sled, maybe? Either that, a shitload of time with some handplanes, or break into someone's cabinet shop and use their industrial size planer.
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Mar 10, 2014 06:21
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Tim Thomas posted:I currently own a very nicely tuned up Powermatic 64a contractor saw with an aftermarket Vega 50" fence with micro adjust. I am in love with the setup, but I have come to the conclusion that I should buy a sawstop given that my hands are my enjoyment and livelihood. So, given that I have never not had a huge rip capacity and micro adjust, what would having a smaller rip capacity and no micro adjust mean from a usability perspective? You should probably be able to just mount the Vega to the sawstop with a bit of work and have the best of both worlds, honestly. Personally, I've never been particularly unhappy with the T-Glide fence on the sawstop I've used, but I can see where having a precision micro-adjust would save some time and accuracy over having to gently tap things into place with the butt of your hand.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:40
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Tim Thomas posted:I'm getting married soon, and my lovely fianceé mentioned today that "instead of getting you the complete gently caress-off Omega that you mentioned as a joke that one time as a wedding gift, I get you a reasonable Omega and buy you a fuckload of Festool stuff? I think I'm allergic to dust and it can't be good for you, so you'd have to get an awesome dust extractor with whatever you get." The Rotex 125 is pretty rad, but also pretty beefy. Haven't used a Domino, but given that it's effectively a better version of a biscuit joiner, if you find yourself planning a lot of work using floating tenons, go for it. Their tracksaw is loving incredible if you work with sheet goods a lot, probably the best tool they sell overall.
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Jul 20, 2014 02:55
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Every miter box I've used (probably about six of them from the 1950s to current) has been out enough that I've had to fix/trim up things with a shooting board afterwards. On the other hand, I'm the kind of neurotic dweeb that would do it anyhow, so I guess take that with a grain of salt.
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Jul 27, 2014 03:26
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Crosscut Hardwoods at 4100 1st Ave S. in Sodo is always a good bet, and I'm pretty sure they carry walnut ply normally. Decent prices in general, and a lot of stuff you just can't get anywhere else.
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Sep 24, 2014 06:38
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If I had to guess, I'd say biscuited in at the top and bottom.
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Oct 19, 2014 21:12
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I've put in a few dozen hours of use in my shared shop's 3hp professional model, and have very few complaints. Biggest annoyance is having to swap in a different brand when you're using a dado stack, and after a few times through that setup process, that only takes an extra two or three minutes. The quality of the table, squareness to the blade, alignment with the miter slots, and quality/alignment of the fence were all of a high quality that I'd expect for what they charge. It's stood up to the probably thousands of hours of use it's seen in the shop pretty well, too. Biggest wear issue is the numbering on the built-in ruler near the blade getting a bit faint.
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Nov 13, 2014 22:24
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You can get perfectly acceptable routed mortises off a router table just doing stop-cuts (drop the workpiece onto the spinning bit, move it to a pre-set position at the end of your mortise, remove carefully). Just do it in multiple passes to reduce the likelyhood of your workpiece becoming a deadly projectile. You can also use a drill press and a chisel to flatten the sides out and leave the ends rounded. Cut your tenons on a band or table saw, then rasp them into shape on the ends.
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Nov 26, 2014 08:59
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Yeah, my bad, totally misread that. I have no idea if that'd work. It seems like it'd be fine if you go slow, but putting lateral force on a router bit in a drill press also sounds like a potentially scary projectile situation.
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Nov 26, 2014 10:15
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Check local community colleges, they often sell passes/run classes and rent out shop space. e: if you have a local Woodcraft or hardwood supplier, they often have a bulletin board full of people looking to rent out shop space. stabbington fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Mar 8, 2015 |
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Mar 8, 2015 07:21
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The people disagreeing with you are asserting that being bisected by a thrown sheet of plywood is significantly scarier than losing a finger, even if it's somewhat less likely.
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Mar 21, 2015 03:27
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Seems like the same basic principle as a lock miter, with a little less work and a table saw instead of a router/shaper, but good on him for having the ingenuity to come up with a different (and perhaps better, depending on your shop situation) way to do it.
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May 17, 2015 06:57
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I have a veritas jig because I honestly didn't think it was that expensive (I think I paid $30 for it?), and it's pretty goddamn foolproof. Would recommend.
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Jul 12, 2015 01:15
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His Divine Shadow posted:Pocket hole hate is nothing surprising or wrong, it is a beautiful thing that should be encouraged. Eh, his attitude of "they're not the best way to do things, but they do make it happen fast" is pretty much dead on in my book. They're great for a pretty limited set of applications when it comes to "fine woodworking", mostly shop furniture and face frames, but when it comes to just putting stuff together when you don't have a planer/table saw/whatever and are stuck using S4S lumber and the like, pocket holes are great. I jammed together a quick cedar side table in like an hour over the weekend because it was nice out and I wanted somewhere to rest my beer using like ten bucks of wood, a miter box + saw, a kreg jig, a cordless drill, and a block plane. It's hardly the prettiest thing I've ever made, but in terms of price, durability, and time spent, it beats the pants off of the ones I was looking at from garden shops and the like.
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Aug 14, 2015 08:36
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Geop posted:Saw this on Reddit, and it's a video showing a luthier make a violin! Edited to 30 minutes, of course, but still! It's a wonderful little video Great video. Of course, not shown are the literal hours of tool upkeep and French polishing, among other things, but still. Really cool.
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Aug 18, 2015 06:51
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Make friends with a local arborist and get him/her to hook you up. Most of the decent ones have a lot full of freshly-cut logs somewhere, just waiting for some chainsaw loving.
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Oct 4, 2015 07:42
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4" at least lets you do edges for glue-ups really easily. If the price is good, I'd probably go for it.
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Jan 18, 2016 08:51
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I ended up buying a bunch of festool stuff for my small, poorly ventilated shop. Having incredible dust collection is where the exorbitant price tag is actually worth it, in my experience.
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Jan 28, 2016 02:28
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Biscuits are good for getting your boards aligned vertically so that you can get a relatively even surface across the face you reference with the biscuit joiner. You still need to put in the work before you glue up to make the board face you're referencing flat and even. It doesn't have to be finish sanded or anything, but taking out the cup and unevenness of each board with a jointer (or planer sled) is pretty important. Your choice if you want to plane to your final dimension before or after you glue up, but generally doing it beforehand is easier if you don't have a giant drum sander or wide enough planer for your completed slab. In the end, though, if you want boards you don't have to plane as much, be pickier with your lumber. Hopefully you live in a place where you have a good hardwood supplier that'll let you rifle through the boards as much as you want until you grab the ones you're satisfied with. If you're stuck shopping at Home Depot or the like, ignore the dirty looks the staff give you as you go through a pallet and a half of lumber looking for the five straight sticks you need, they're not getting paid enough to gently caress with you over it.
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Jan 28, 2016 06:27
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Frogmanv2 posted:You guys dont use titebond? Glue dries in the cap and cleaning it out all the time is a pain in the rear end. Titebond is good stuff, but their bottle design isn't perfect.
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Feb 23, 2016 10:06
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GEMorris posted:If you're buying new and not a lunchbox, I'd personally save up to get a 12" JP combo. Any recommendations on those? Thinking ahead to after my bandsaw purchase here, have pretty much everything else I want covered, and finding comprehensive recent reviews has been a bitch and a half.
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Mar 9, 2016 02:55
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I did that with the lid of a box in my second week woodworking. Had a bruise from having that poo poo thrown into my gut for like a month and a half. Have never been a dumb piece of poo poo with a table saw since (and am honestly not planning on buying one as I outfit my own shop). Further reflection makes me glad the machine I was using was a sawstop, just for the added layer of "maybe that wouldn't have cost me a hand".
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May 6, 2016 07:40
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Having recently bought a Domino thanks to having more money than time to do woodworking and a severe aversion to tools that generate a lot of uncontrolled dust (not coincidentally why I was already in the festool ecosystem thanks to their sanders), holy poo poo is that thing easy to use and fast at what it does. They really gently caress you on the extras, though, additional cutters besides the default 5mm are ~40 USD a piece, or ~300 USD for a set of 5 (4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm) and a T-Loc full of ~1000 dominos of various sizes. It's not the messiah unless you're doing a lot of production work, in which case I'm pretty sure the time/labor savings would pay for the thing pretty quickly, but it is certainly a very nice, useful tool that fills a niche. For me, it lets me set up and execute joinery that would take me hours in a fraction of the time (partially because I turn into the slowest worker alive when you put a chisel in my hand, admittedly  ), with a minimum of fuss or mess.If you can afford/justify one, I would definitely recommend it more than basically any other festool item. Definitely also interested to see what people come up with in the way of copycat/variation tools in the future. I'd love it if there were a comparable alternative that doesn't cost a thousand loving dollars, but the closest I know of is a beadlock jig, which still takes a lot more time to set up/use.
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Jun 3, 2016 09:22
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Especially in cases of end grain to long grain gluing, tenons of any sort provide you significantly more long grain glue surface to work with, in addition to creating a stronger mechanical bond. Floating tenons like dominos are superior to dowels because they have a larger long grain surface area than dowels. If you're gluing long grain to long grain, there's no real need for tenons outside of alignment purposes, and dowels/biscuits/dominos all work perfectly fine for that. Think of joinery operations in terms of maximizing the long grain to long grain glue surface available to you, and any method that does that is going to be pretty good. Dominos are rad because of how quick and easy they are to use, but beyond that don't offer any other advantages over more laborious (floating) tenon processes.
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Jun 20, 2016 20:42
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Endgrain over the slab if you've got the height (and it's a barn, so you probably do!). Great on your knees, lasts forever with minimal maintenance, easy on dropped tools.
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Sep 14, 2016 00:37
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Can't speak for that particular one, but both the Rotex and ETS-EC that I've used heavily have really, really good dust removal, assuming you've got them hooked to a vac. The pad brake is a pretty nice feature, too.
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Oct 5, 2016 04:58
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The prices are a bit on the high side of fine because they get to charge for the name, but they're not much higher than you'd pay for something similarly-sized/styled without the drop-top and other nerd features at a place like Pottery Barn or whatever. That said, you can probably do a lot better in terms of time to delivery and getting exactly what you want by finding someone local to work with. I bought a table from Geek Chic several years ago, both before I got into woodworking, and before they both raised prices across the board and discontinued their discount for ordering one at a convention. The one I have is solidly well-made of good wood, nicely finished, with nice construction benefits like removable legs that mate very stably with the tabletop when installed. If I were contemplating another piece of furniture from them, the biggest dealbreaker would be their turnaround time - my table took 10 months from order to delivery, and that was in 2012 when they were significantly less well-known and popular, and with the advantage of them being local to me and not having to wait on their cross-country delivery scheduling. Basically, no harm in finding someone local to you and seeing what they quote you for the thing you want.
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Nov 5, 2016 07:44
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If you're doing something with expensive wood, don't be afraid to make a cheap poplar/plywood prototype first. It can save money in the long run, you learn a whole lot about what can go wrong and get to troubleshoot it before you're loving around with your bocote or whatever.
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Dec 13, 2016 02:41
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My only complaint about K-bodies outside of the price is that if they happen to fall wrong, those plastic feet that keep them stable while you set up your glue-up break like they're barely there. Wish they'd gone with a more resilient material for them.
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Jan 24, 2017 05:29
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Those are knife hinges.
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Oct 24, 2017 06:09
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I finished a project that wasn't shop furniture for once in my life! Sure, it's just a live edge cherry slab table on some steel legs I bought off the internet, but damnit, it's a real thing that looks god instead of just being functional. Better lit slab close-up:  Had to fill a bunch of cracks and knotholes with epoxy, can't say enough good things about the West Systems stuff. Absolutely worth the money for the lack of hassle. Also my first time using Minwax Polycrylic (satin) as a finish, very happy with both the end product and ease of use there. We'll see how it holds up, but given that it's just a console table, I'm not expecting it to be taking much in the way of day-to-day wear unless my cats decide they need to fight on it.
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Feb 3, 2018 05:58
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DreadLlama posted:Neato! Love that wood grain. What grit did you sand it up to? Polycrylic produces a real nice finish. But I can't seem to find the right kind. Do they make an outdoor floor version? I sanded to 220, which wasn't a hard task considering this is the first board I've run through my planer since I put new knives on it. I don't think they make an outdoor/heavy wear version, but there are plenty of polyurethanes out there that fill that niche. If you're looking for something that'll really take a beating, I recommend investing the money in some Epifanes stuff and following the directions carefully, it's the stuff they coat the bottoms of boats in and is pretty much bulletproof if applied correctly.
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Feb 3, 2018 10:33
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Leperflesh posted:Have you guys ever heard of an "expansive bit"? I heard of them shortly after hearing a sharp bang and a shop manager shouting "YOU rear end in a top hat" across a makerspace while I was in another room. Everyone got remedial drill press instruction afterwards.
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Jan 28, 2020 05:12
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Rufio posted:Track saw havers: do y'all connect two 55" tracks for full sheet rips or is the long track necessary? I connect up a couple of tracks and it sucks, there's a little ridge between the 2 regardless of what I do and it's always a problem because I make full sheet rips pretty infrequently and always forget about it. Low frequency of needing to do it is also the reason I haven't dropped the hundreds of dollars on a long track.
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Feb 9, 2021 10:14
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The knives on my DW735 finally got trashed beyond the point of being fixable with a light sharpening, so I pulled the trigger on a shelix upgrade, and holy poo poo. Kind of a pain in the rear end having to pull the entire thing apart to swap spindles, but the difference in cut quality and overall performance is definitely noticeable. Easily handled the curly maple scraps I had sitting around that I ran through it as a test, and runs noticeably quieter, too (still loud as poo poo because of the blower, but a few decibels matters when you're starting in the 90s). Not having to resharpen a whole knife every time something gets a nick in it is going to be really nice. Would definitely recommend if you've lived with the planer long enough to know if it suits your size needs.
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Feb 25, 2021 09:27
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Mederlock posted:Just buy a drop-in spiral cutter head into your 735. There's a couple company's that are offering them. Seconding this, unless you need the extra capacity the helical upgrades are well worth it. Couple hours of work (or like twice that if you don’t have snap ring pliers) and the thing cuts like a dream.
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Mar 4, 2021 22:01
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Tried resawing a 6” wide 8’ long board of cherry on my table saw today, just as a test, creeping the blade up slowly and swapping sides, working towards the middle. Even with featherboards, infeed/outfeed support and all the other reasonable precautions I could take, things got too spooky around 2” into each side, and I just stopped what I was doing and set it aside. Probably more reasonable on shorter boards, but unfortunately that’s not what I need. Definitely cemented my decision to move a bandsaw up my tool buying list; the table saw is nice for the amount of sheet goods I work with, and repetitive tasks that I do, but having the right tool for the job is definitely important.
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Mar 29, 2021 01:50
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Jhet posted:Dunn lumber is just expensive. There's a lumber place on Market St in Ballard that has better prices called Limback Lumber. It's still going to have the covid and Seattle markup, but they've been good for what I've needed. Limback’s is good, crosscut in sodo is my go-to for hardwood but they have a solid plywood selection too. Alki lumber in West Seattle is also decent, but lmao at going there with the bridge out if you don’t live in West Seattle already.
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May 28, 2021 23:59
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:58 |
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I've only just removed every single one today to try to fix this very issue. Might just be lovely machining, this stupid thing was like 40 weeks back ordered. I have an identical issue with my shelix-converted 735, and have just been living with it since I have a drum sander to chuck things through to clean them up. Hope you find a solution I can copy, though.
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Nov 17, 2021 11:16
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