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So I promised my girlfriend I would build her a new jewelery box since hers broke. I've never done any woodworking before, so I have no tools to speak of save a cordless drill I found in a box and a hammer thats probably older than I am. I want the box to have 1/2 inch finger joints and after some research decided the best way to go about it was to get a router table. I saw this little router table on my local craigslist going for $35: http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3262495322.html This router any good? Any things I should look for when checking it out, besides the obvious?
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# ¿ Sep 11, 2012 05:40 |
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2024 20:59 |
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Just got a Ryobi router + table off Craigslist for $40 Anyone know a place to get cheap router bits? The router has a 1/4" collet
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# ¿ Sep 30, 2012 21:21 |
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So I wrote earlier in the thread that I had bought a new router and table off craigslist. I've never really done any woodworking before but I promised my girlfriend I would build her a jewelry box. I'm pretty excited about it all and I've made a little progress. Heres the router I got, a slightly older model Ryobi, the one before the current model: I want the box to have finger joints so my first step was to build a jig for the router. I used a piece of scrap wood I've had forever, the miter rail that came with the router, and some old screws I found: For a thrown together thing made from literal garbage, the results were pretty good. I had to use a chisel to widen some of the gaps but I'm mostly happy with it:
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# ¿ Oct 9, 2012 20:34 |
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Turbo Impotence posted:Hey guys, just a beginner here looking to get into it as a pass time. Was hoping I could get some advice on starting for someone basically going into it blind, and being on a relatively restrictive budget, for a little while at least. I love this guy, his videos are informative and entertaining: http://www.woodworkingformeremortals.com/ As someone who just got into the hobby as well, I started with an idea. Find something you want to build, plan it out, have it all designed the way you want, then research what tools you will need to make it happen. For me it started when I promised my girlfriend I would build her a jewelery box, and I started with a quick sketch. From there I used Solidworks ( I'm an engineering student ) to make a model of it. I think the most important thing is to really plan everything out before you cut a single piece of wood and resist the temptation to just grab a saw and figure it out as you go.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2012 20:54 |
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So after nearly 6 months of working bit by bit and one night of scrambling before catching a 6am flight, I finished and delivered the jewelry box I promised my girlfriend. Considering this is the first wood thing I've ever made, and also considering I had nothing but a router table, two clamps, and a handsaw, I think it came out pretty good. The finger joints are pretty rough in places and gaps abound, the lid is slightly crooked, the finish is splotchy and rushed, and the screws on the lock aren't flush, but it was made with love and I poured my heart into the thing The body was precut red oak planks from Home Depot, which for the lid I had to trim down to 1 inch wide from 1.5 inches wide. I managed to fabricate a serviceable finger joint jig for the corners. The bottom, top, and inner walls were made from some 3/8th inch plywood also from Home Depot. I got some dark purple velvet from Jo-Ann's and used wood glue to coat the inside and bottom; I was worried about seep though but it turned out fine. Mirror was attached with a two-part epoxy, and the inner walls were attached to the sides using super glue (last minute thing). The half-mortise lock was from the local Woodcraft, as were the hinges. The mortises for both were done with hand chisels. The rose was transferred from a print out using graphite paper and hand painted, then stained with red mahogany Minwax and clear coated over.
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2013 02:30 |
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Bad Munki posted:Nice work! It's great to see someone new to the hobby actually pick a project like that and see it through to completion. I don't think the finger joints look bad, I think they work with it. It looks a little rustic, and that can also add charm. Thanks for the feedback. Next project is something considerably easier, a cutting board for my mom. Woodcraft sells a cutting board kit for $30 but it has mixed reviews. Some say its great, others say many of the boards are split or just bad. Would it be cheaper to just get my own wood?
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# ¿ Jan 9, 2013 20:49 |
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What kind of woods would be best for an end-grain cutting board? It will be a gift for my mother and she tends to like yellow and red in combination, are there any yellow and red woods suitable for this?
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# ¿ Jan 13, 2013 01:43 |
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Is there a Hand Planes for Dummies type guide anywhere? Whats the difference between a block plane, #5, smooth, jointer plane, etc? What do all the different parts do?
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2013 05:58 |
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LumberingTroll posted:Whats so special about a SawStop? I am not seeing anything that has some kind of special no amputation of fingers attached to it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FquL0GG9RGI
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# ¿ May 2, 2013 18:36 |
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Here's an art deco kinda lookin box I thought up. 3/4 walnut sides and lid, maple splines, ebony and maple inlaid compass rose on top. Bottom is 1/8 maple set flush into rabbets. Can't wait til I have the tools and space to make it.
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# ¿ May 8, 2013 03:03 |
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How heavy is that slab? Did you do any kind of structural analysis on the legs? I hope they hold up
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2013 22:48 |
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polyfractal posted:Is there a go-to place to get plans (either free or for sale)? And/or anyone have a nice plan for a jewelry box? Do you have a router table or just the router? I made a jewelry box for my girlfriend last year that turned out pretty-sorta-ok-for-a-first-project. I used a straight bit and a haphazrdly assembled jig to make finger joints for the corners: I had no access to a table saw or circular saw so I used precut red oak boards from Home Depot. 1/8th plywood for the top and bottom.
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2013 22:09 |
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LordOfThePants posted:Where did you get the chain you're holding the lid up with? I need something like that and am having a hell of a time finding it locally. Just from Home Depot, nothing special about it.
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2013 16:28 |
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I think I've seen some of that stuff. I was at a Foot Locker last week and there were some benches made from 3-inch cubes of a wood with the endgrain facing outward. I had never seen a wood like that before but it looks similar to this stuff. There were definitely no voids in the wood I saw
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2013 00:15 |
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This is incredible
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# ¿ Dec 22, 2013 06:03 |
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My school didn't have a shop
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# ¿ Jan 5, 2014 03:50 |
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Whats my best option for ripping boards without a table saw? I have a circular saw and a jigsaw. I imagine some kind of jig or fixture for holding the board but what if I want to rip a thin board in half?
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# ¿ Jan 5, 2014 23:29 |
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You know our measurement system is in denial when engineering calculations are done in kilopounds.
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2014 14:32 |
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Find a Harbor Freight Tools, they got F-clamps for super cheap and they've never let me down (yet)
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2014 13:54 |
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Just bought a Zhen santouku knife blade from the Woodcraft and a scrap of Bocote for the scales. Has anyone assembled these before? The guy at the store was pretty skeptical about using an epoxy to attache the scales to the tang, but I was under the impression that was pretty standard practice? Also how should I see them, lots of layers of poly?
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# ¿ May 4, 2014 23:43 |
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Can anyone recommend me a pair of earmuffs with built in radio or a aux in Jack?
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2016 17:06 |
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I'm sure this comes up like every 5 pages, but I have as of yet been unable to find a table saw worth a drat, in my price range, on craigslist. I've been looking for a few months now and everything I come across are either terrible Craftsmen portables or several thousand dollar Deltas and Powermatic cabinet saws. At what point do I give up and buy something new? I've seen the $600 Lowe's Delta mentioned before, is this the go-to Affordable New Saw? http://www.lowes.com/pd_510897-52010-36-725_0__?productId=50081568 EDIT - this is what I mean https://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/5514326617.html Super Waffle fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Apr 10, 2016 |
# ¿ Apr 10, 2016 14:18 |
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tater_salad posted:I own the delta and your choice is this or the $50 less rigid at home depot.. the delta is so popular I got mine on a whim by asking the Power tool manager if he knew when he was getting another one in and he said Tuesday.. so I paid for it and picked it up. He said he had 2 people try and buy it between 10 when it came odd the truck and 6 when I came to pick it up. The rigid always seems to be in at ok at hd, it had some arbor runout issues but I guess those are fixed now. This one? http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206 Looking at the specs, it seems the Delta can cut 1/2" deeper than the Rigid, but the Rigid is 70lbs heavier, which means better stability in my mind. The Delta is a bit faster, at 3600 RPM versus the Rigid's 3450 RPM. They both have the same rip capacity and look like the have the same style fence. Both have an integrated wheel base for mobility. Can either of these take a dado stack? The arbor length is not mentioned on either.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2016 02:09 |
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Suspend it from the ceiling!
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2016 22:54 |
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I seem to have found myself in possesion of 4 or 5 oak logs of various dimensions. Has anyone built a chainsaw mill? What chainsaw did you use and how did you go about it? I would much prefer an electric chainsaw.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2016 15:22 |
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A bandsaw mill would be a dream but I am nowhere near having the capability to pull that build off. Jesus I don't even have that many clamps The logs aren't very long (sadly), and I figured an electric chainsaw plus home made mill jig would be an inexpensive way to at least get these logs sliced up so they can start drying out. I don't have a band saw yet, and even if I did I would have to cut the logs down into more manageable chunks to resaw anyways. Should I look into a splitting axe and wedges or something then?
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2016 15:28 |
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I think I realize now that a chainsaw mill is a bit overambitious and overkill for me. I think I'll just get a medium sized electric chainsaw and quarter the logs like in that Wandel video, mill them down when I get my bandsaw. Thank you for all the advice!
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2016 00:53 |
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Just hock a big phlegmy blob of sinus pudding into your butt joint and you're good to go
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# ¿ Oct 2, 2016 03:50 |
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What about making a zero-clearance insert? Or use a router table with a chamfer bit?
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2016 21:07 |
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Really wishing I had picked up some carving chisels and a board to mess around with while I wait this hurricane out
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2016 03:54 |
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Finally got the jointer moved into the workshop from the garage
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2016 01:15 |
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Parts Kit posted:I didn't realize some common exotics can cause allergic reactions but fortunately was warned last week before I decided to mess with some cocobolo. poo poo that would have been bad. what? I have a small piece of cocobolo I was going to use for knife scales. For a kitchen knife. For my mother. Do you have a link?
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2016 15:36 |
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I never really understood the need for a planer until now. I'm trying to make a simple mitered corner box and nothing is lining up right. After hours of fiddling I realized that my jointer gave all my boards taper and one side is slightly thicker than the other
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2016 02:15 |
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2016 05:55 |
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Amazing work!
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2016 16:05 |
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Gonna be hard to follow that beautiful dresser but heres what I got: Picked up my first peice of exotic hardwood bigger than a scrap, 1.5 BF of Paduak. Seemed like a reasonable price at $7.50/BF but what do I know I wanted something bright to liven up a cedar box I have been making for a friend; I wanted Redheart but they only piece they had that would have been big enough was like $30 so I went with this stuff. I am reasonably happy with the end product, I plan to use a boiled linseed oil finish in the next day or so. This lid doesn't line up with the box perfectly, as the box isn't perfectly square; thats something I'm still struggling with but I'm sure I'll get it eventually. It was a great experience finally being able to use all the knowledge Ive been slowly absorbing over the last few years. I'm so happy with my new table saw, its opened up a world of possibilities and projects.
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# ¿ Nov 7, 2016 02:56 |
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Skippy Granola posted:Holy hannah where are you getting Padauk for $7.50? My usual place is charging something like $22/bf The local Woodcraft, it was $7.50 for 4/4, $9.00 for the wider 10/4 boards. They had a pallet of each, maybe it was a shipping error or something, I'd never seen so much padauk there And thanks for the complements on the box :3. I wish I hadn't glued the bottom on before I decided to grab the padauk, or I would have cut the box and continued the strip down the sides. I'll save the idea for the next one! Super Waffle fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Nov 7, 2016 |
# ¿ Nov 7, 2016 05:13 |
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Try that BLO on some of the scraps first. It can give lighter colored woods a yellowish tint that not everyone likes. Danish oil might be a good alternative. I already have, it didn't affect the padauk too much but it did yellow the cedar. Its not what I had originally envisioned for the box but I think it'll come out nice.
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# ¿ Nov 7, 2016 17:44 |
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I'm ready to call the box finished. That BLO really put an amazing satin finish on the box, I am ecstatic with how its turned out. The padauk looks almost holographic/translucent with the finish, and turns out theres even a little but of curl on one of the corners. I was a little disappointed with how pale it had turned out before but now it looks perfect. I wanna thank everyone in this thread for all the amazing advice and information I've gotten, couldn't have done it without y'all
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2016 03:04 |
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2024 20:59 |
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Minorkos posted:Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to picking wood thickness when building stuff? I'm planning out a new box that's going to be the size 350mm x 250mm x 130mm. I'm not sure what thickness of wood to use though. I feel like 10mm is what I should go for but I'm worried it's going to be too frail. But then 15mm seems a bit too thick. Assuming I'm using oak, would 10mm be enough? After a certain point, I feel like thickness is a design choice. What is the box going to be used for? As long as it won't fall apart during normal use, it can be any thickness you feel would look good.
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2016 15:28 |