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Bad Munki posted:I don't know about you guys but mine always smells like freshly-cut aromatic cedar. v You might want to stop eating wood chips 
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Apr 8, 2013 18:32
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Bad Munki posted:That'll be awesome until the first time I find myself chasing my saw around the shop while trying to resaw something even a little large. One of the major draws of those mobile bases is that the wheels only engage when you step on the paddle to lock them down. Flip the paddle up and the base is sitting directly on the ground, immobilizing the equipment. I feel like you could make a movie about a killer mobile bandsaw along the lines of that movie Rubber or maybe The Mangler.
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Apr 26, 2013 00:17
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Nick Offerman (aka Ron Swanson) endorses a book called "Canoecraft" for building canoes if that helps any: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7qiXZqrvfI
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Jun 4, 2013 06:18
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I'm thinking about building my own computer desk. What I'm considering right now is getting hardwood plywood for the desk surface. Is that a good idea? I don't have a workshop so plane/clamp/glueing boards together would be rather challenging to me, to say nothing of having to buy a zillion clamps to do something that large I assume. I have a hand router, though no bits for it yet. I'd like to use that to round the edges. Is that even doable with good plywood or am I going to have to glue solid wood to the edge and router that? Without a table saw or anything it makes getting wood to the right size/accuracy rather challenging I think. For the legs I might use pipes or something like that. It'll be pretty basic but I like my desks to have lots of open space so I won't be doing any drawers or anything. The other thing I am thinking of is making a raised part on the desk for a monitor stand. My first thought was be dovetailing the sides of the raised part to the monitor platform but I guess dovetails don't work too well with plywood? After some googling I saw other joint suggestions that work with plywood though again most of them want a table saw to make them. So in short: Is high quality hardwood plywood a suitable material for building a desk? What is a good joint for joining 2 pieces of plywood at 90 degrees that doesn't require a table saw?
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Jul 18, 2013 23:40
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Guitarchitect posted:You'll have to go with a 90deg butt joint, I think, if you don't have a tablesaw. If you have a drill you may be able to put together a reasonably useful dowelling jig which will make for a very strong joint. You could also do some sort of locking joint, like a Lock Miter Bit or, cheaper, a drawer lock bit. I was looking at some router bits like that but without a router table will it even be possible to accurately use them? Maybe some kind of jig with the router to keep it from going too deep I suppose? I also saw finger joints suggested somewhere which might be more doable than dovetails I guess. Also, thanks for the info 
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Jul 19, 2013 00:20
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Thanks for the further advice. Gonna have to take a trip to windsor plywood and check out what kind of wood to get
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Jul 19, 2013 17:00
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Magnus Praeda posted:They don't? I wasn't really planning on making any storage. My current desk doesn't have any and I'm fine with it. As for legs I was thinking of using iron pipe. Oh also I noticed Lee Valley has plywood router bits I think. I'll take a look at that book!
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Jul 21, 2013 16:07
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Some Bosch stuff is on sale in the Amazon Gold Box today including their router table for under $135 which is a pretty nice deal I think. http://www.amazon.com/gp/goldbox/ Also some Drill bits, Jigsaw blades and oscillating tool thingies for pretty cheap.
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Aug 8, 2013 17:48
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squelch posted:Do any of you know anything about this Lumboo nonsense? All I know is that in Master of the Flying Guillotine the hero uses bamboo to destroy the blades on the villain's weapon due to its toughness.
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Dec 20, 2013 19:45
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Bad Munki posted:Uhh, what is "Nobody?" It's funny, I took wood working class in junior high and I actually can't remember them having a table saw. Band saw, drill press, disk sanders, scroll saw but no table saws.
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Jan 5, 2014 01:07
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I'm very new to woodworking. I was cutting some plywood today with my cheapo circular saw and it seems like the blade is not parallel to the saw guide? Is that a thing? Do saws usually have some kind of adjustment for that? For instance, I can clamp down a parallel bar for guiding the saw, measure both sides to make sure it is indeed parallel but the saw wouldn't run along that guide evenly. The front edge of the metal plate on the saw touches the guide but the back edge sits about 1/8" or more away from the guide as it cuts. It's quite possible I just suck at using the saw but it's also a super cheap "Haussmann" brand saw I picked up on clearance at Rona (like Home Depot in Canada). Haussmann is their house brand. I also noticed a stupid design flaw of the saw while I was cutting. The bottom of the aluminum plate that the saw blade sticks through is screwed to the body of the saw which is fine but where the screws are countersunk there's a raised lip around the screw heads that digs into whatever you are cutting and prevents it from sliding smoothly. I'll have to file those down or something.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:33
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I'm building an enterntainment unit with drawers for DVD's. Due to my own ineptitude the internal walls where I plan to hang the drawer slides are not entirely perpendicular to the front of the unit. Plus the drawer holes are (intentionally) smaller than my internal supports. So I need spacer blocks to the left and right of my drawer holes. What's the best way to taper some pieces of wood by a few degrees? The drawers are 20 inches deep and the depth of my spacers required vary from about 1" down to about 1/4". Some of the internal panels are out of square by maybe 3/8" or so from the front to the back. Which means I'll need spacers 20" long, a couple of inches high and let's say one might be 1" thick at the front and 5/8" at the back. How do I make that taper? I don't have a table saw so a tapering jig is out. I don't have a plane or a spokeshave. I do have a router, router table, belt sander, some chisels, a circular saw, jig saw, hand saw, and umm, a small drill press. I wouldn't be opposed to buying something like a plane if that's what the job requires though.
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Feb 5, 2014 07:08
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Seems reasonable, thanks.
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Feb 5, 2014 17:51
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Not sure the router bits would be long enough to cover something that might be 2 inches tall though.
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Feb 5, 2014 19:30
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Yeah, these ones http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=46576&cat=3,43614,43616 I don't want to make the spacers too small vertically because a drawer full of DVDs will be quite heavy I think which would put a lot of strain of them.
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Feb 5, 2014 20:34
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I don't know if this picture helps: I cut holes in the front plate seen in the image for the drawers. The dividers between the drawers are what I didn't get lined up 100% due to my being dumb, so at least one of them is askew. I'm not really sure what you mean by face frame brackets. It's not attached yet in this photo but there is a back to the unit though it does not extend all the way to the floor.
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Feb 5, 2014 23:12
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When I fill a box with DVD's it sure gets heavy though. Those 2 boxes on the left are full of DVD's and are very heavy. I'm currently using them to clamp down the ends of that unit while the glue dries. Going by a quick calculation, I think the inside of my drawers will be around 19 inches deep. That means each drawer should be able to hold up to 114 dvd's if I cram it full (38 dvd's deep and 3 wide). Google tells me a DVD in case weighs around 3-4oz. That means each drawer is going to be holding up to about 25lbs plus the weight of the drawer itself. I guess that isn't really all that significant really. I probably way overbuilt this thing. Speaking of which, when I make the insert for the bottom of the drawers does anyone know what thickness of wood I should use for that? I was thinking maybe 1/4" ply? Will that hold up to the weight of 100+ dvd's or should I use something thicker or reinforce it? Squibbles fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Feb 5, 2014 |
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Feb 5, 2014 23:50
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Tim Thomas posted:The brackets are intended for this application. Buy a set of these for each set of drawers: http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping/AddViews.aspx?p=48645 They screw to the back of the case, not the sides. The drawer slides are then constrained by the face frame. oh wow, ordering those now. Wish I had known about those before!
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Feb 6, 2014 20:36
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How much/little do you sand varnish between coats? I'm using some General Finishes water based semi-gloss varnish. I did the 3rd coat last night and am wondering if when I was sanding I was going all the way through to the previous coat on my sandings. I'm using 320 grit paper on a sanding block and rubbing enough that there's visible dust on the surface. I don't know if I am pressing too hard or not. It seems like I'm seeing more imperfections every time, but maybe that's just because I'm spending more time looking at it as I go over it. So do you just sand with barely any pressure or do you add a little weight as you sand? And how do you normally get rid of the dust? i'm just using rags/paper towels to wipe down the surface.
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Feb 12, 2014 18:06
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mds2 posted:I use very light pressure, basically the weight of the sanding block itself. You are really just trying to knock down any high spots. You arent trying to remove the finish. Then I wipe down with a tack cloth to pick up the dust, or blow it off with an air compressor. Alright, I'll go easier with the sand paper tonight then. Thanks
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Feb 12, 2014 18:41
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Not the nicest and many many mistakes were made but I'm about finished the finishing of my entertainment unit. The next stage is to build the drawers. I am thinking of using knotty pine for the drawer fronts, hopefully that will have a nice contrast with the super dark walnut stain. We'll see!
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Feb 13, 2014 22:47
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Will I have problems with warping/cupping of my drawer fronts in this scenario: I plan to make my drawer boxes out of 6" (5.5") pine. They'll be about 25" wide and attached at the corners via box joints. I was thinking of making the drawer faces out of knotty pine and they will be about 7.5" tall and 27" wide. Attached to the drawer box via glue/screws. Will the inch above/below the drawer box start to pull away? Should I look into using a different wood since I know pine isn't the most stable?
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Feb 15, 2014 20:48
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wormil posted:Pine is plenty stable, it just gets a bad rap because construction grade isn't fully kiln dried and warps like crazy. Sticker and let it sit for a few months in your shop before using and it'll be fine, or buy actual kiln dried. Then cut to rough size, let sit overnight before cutting to final dimensions as with any wood. Interesting to know, thanks
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Feb 16, 2014 01:16
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There's a number of results if you GIS for diagonal wood table https://www.google.ca/search?q=diag...fe=off&tbm=isch First, twelfth, and a few more on the first page. Most seem to use pretty narrow boards.
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Feb 20, 2014 01:07
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Frogmanv2 posted:I vote router sled. Because really, who doesn't like sledding? It's fun! I think someone linked these bits earlier, might take a bit of time off the job I guess: http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z
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Mar 10, 2014 16:48
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Man, I'm on vacation right now on the west coast of Vancouver island (Tofino) and it seems like it could be a wood workers dream out here. Posting from my phone and I didn't take any pics yet anyway but the place where we just ate dinner had solid wood table tops about 3 inches thick, 3-4 feet wide and 5+ feet long, and they didn't appear to be glued/joined up. As in they were all cut from cross sections of absolutely huge logs. The wood types seemed to vary, our table was some kind of soft wood, others were maybe cedar. I'm not sure but I think they may cut them out of driftwood. The place we ate yesterday had beautiful rounded picnic tables outside and every other place we stop at seems to have wonderful wood accents and details everywhere.
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Mar 15, 2014 05:31
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JEEVES420 posted:I have broken so many of those plastic ones youd think id buy better but they are cheap enoughi dont care when they do break. And here I thought I was being all smart and original earlier this year when I used tiedowns to hold my entertainment unit together while I was gluing it up.
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Apr 2, 2014 06:06
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If anyone here lives around Vancouver, Canada you might want to check out this sale in a couple of weeks: http://www.leevalley.com/en/home/page.aspx?p=71946 For some reason Lee Valley Tools has a huge collection of (mostly) wooden hand planes and is selling off over 1000 of them? Gonna see if I can get some cheap planes to screw around with if I remember to head over there on the 19th.
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Jul 5, 2014 03:31
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Finally finished my first real woodworking project. An entertainment unit. The drawers are designed to hold all my dvds, 3 wide and 20+ deep in each of the 9 drawers. I was in a rush so the finish on the drawer faces is not great and has a lot of flaws. Also, some of the drawers were not quite square. The wood was cheap home depot stuff some of which was pretty warped and I don't have a jointer or plane. Oh well, it will be functional and I learned a lot. My next project will be much better. http://imgur.com/a/rG70R Squibbles fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Aug 12, 2014 |
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Aug 12, 2014 05:11
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There's a lot of good reviews for the Ridgid one I think. Also keep an eye out for sales as I think they often knock $50-100 off the price plus if you are in the US apparently you can get harbor freight 20% off anything coupons and some home depots will match them.
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Nov 7, 2014 03:57
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LordOfThePants posted:I feel like kind of a dick for not bringing this up in the thread a week ago, but every year for Cyber Monday, Lee Valley sells "second quality" planes for significant discounts. I got a Jr jack plane in that sale. Their site got kind of crushed for an hour or so. It was fine for the first few minutes but then the cart stopped showing my items and I wasn't able to check out. After an hour or two of occasional refreshes it finally worked well enough for me to buy my stuff.
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Dec 8, 2014 02:29
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Broke my first router bit today. I was using a 1/4 inch up cut spiral bit to cut a 1/2 inch deep groove down the middle of some fir on my router table. I heard a weird noise so stopped pushing the piece and shut off the router. The bit had snapped into 3 pieces in the collet. The top 3/4 of the bit looks pristine but the bottom was broken into 2 pieces, one had fallen down into the bottom of the router and the middle piece was lodged in the collet. I had to use a hammer and a screw to get it free. Also it seemed to have beat up the upper lip of my collet. Doh. Had to finish my cuts on the table saw.
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Dec 29, 2014 03:08
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Doctor Zero posted:Basswood isn't as soft as balsa but it's still pretty soft. I use it for models and prototypes but I don't think it would be good untreated for a nice box if you wanted it to last. I don't even know how it would take a finish TBQH. Maybe go to a hobby/train/crafts store and get a small piece to experiment on? It does have the advantage of being pretty inexpensive and light. Don't people make guitars out of it? It must be OK at taking some kind of finish... Here's a quick video from a few weeks ago on how to make a wine box: http://youtu.be/-QXnu_mUcPc Jimmy Diresta also has some recent videos where he makes wine and bourbon boxes I think too. Squibbles fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 05:29
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What's the best way to resaw an already somewhat thin board if I don't have a bandsaw or thickness planer? I have some 3/4" x 6" maple that I would like to cut in half into thinner sections. I was thinking of doing it on my table saw, I started with the blade lower and intended to do a bunch of passes, raising the blade each time, then flip the board over and do the same from the other side. I got a couple of inches in and the sides of the board started to curl inward really badly. To the point that when the cut got about 2 1/2 - 3 inches deep the bottom edges were curled in so badly they would have touched if not for the sawblade continually removing material with each pass. The boards would come out super warped if I continued with that. Am I going to have to break down and spend an hour with a hand saw trying to cut all the way through 6 inches of maple for the 12" or so of length I want to be 1/4" thick or so?
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Feb 5, 2015 06:25
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Skinny Bins posted:No matter which way you cut it (literally,) you're going to have a similar problem. The wood is under tension and when you remove a bunch of material, it gets released. While the effect may be less dramatic with a handsaw, you're still going to have the same problem. This is very common with maple and I tend to allow myself a bit of extra material to allow for squaring and straightening when working with it. Cool, thanks. Now I just need to figure out a way to clamp down this thin piece of wood so I can try to plane it flat. I got my plane to work nicely last night actually. It works great on edges and I get wonderful thin shavings from end to end using any part of the blade but when I try to hit the flat, large surface area it either slides right over to doing nothing or digs in and stops dead. Probably just more adjusting to do on my part. Plus a better way of holding the wood down would be good probably
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Feb 5, 2015 16:53
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swampface posted:Yeah, that's just the blade and cap iron. Having never bought replacement parts it's a bit unnerving when you get two in a row that are messed up in the same way. Granted the first one wasn't quite so bad, but you could still slide a piece of paper about halfway between the two. Makes you feel like you're going crazy a bit! I'll send the caliper picture back to them and see what they have to say. Yeah, as far as I know the cap iron should only touch at the leading edge of the blade and then further back there you screw them together. There's a diagram that shows that on Lee valley: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,230,41182&p=66868
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Feb 12, 2015 22:56
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Made a little box that looks like a book for the wife. Pales in comparison to that blanket box though, wow! Cherry wood and finished with beeswax and orange oil.   http://imgur.com/a/y2Or0
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Feb 15, 2015 01:32
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I can't take credit for the book box. Steve Ramsey did the original concept: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LXxQreDmW8 I remember seeing some ideas in the comments such as using plywood for the inside edge that might give more illusion of pages. I could have rounded the spine more so it looked more like a real book spine. I was also thinking it would be neat to carve some little lines across the back to give it more detail like an old book, similar to this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Old_book_bindings.jpg And yeah later on I definitely was thinking it would be cool to carve a design on the 'cover' and/or spine. Even something like what Paul Sellers did for the detail work on his hand saw would probably look really nice (https://vimeo.com/31152321 6 minutes in)
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Feb 15, 2015 02:28
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On the topic of chisels I was reading through Paul seller's blog tonight and saw this little article about chisels. https://paulsellers.com/2014/12/changing-the-shape-of-ash-chisel-handles There's a link to a set in the comments
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Feb 21, 2015 05:35
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ReelBigLizard posted:The correct number of clamps, like any tool, is n + 1. I am of the opinion that claps should be bought in pairs so the ideal number of clamps would be n + 2. Thank you for your attention in this matter.
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Mar 3, 2015 16:05
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