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What is a good babbys first chisel set to get? I am in the US (SF, NY) for a few weeks and was hoping to get something better/cheaper than I otherwise would be able to in Australia. Definitely don't mind spending more for something that will last. Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 16:34
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A friend made me this for my birthday and I couldn't be happier.
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Jul 12, 2015 02:45
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If you're ok with hand tools, a shooting board and a plane can do wonders, though you'd need to carefully select your registration face
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Jul 14, 2015 12:54
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Our bathroom was in need of some additional storage in a very narrow area, so I've been building this shelf/cabinet thing for the last few weeks. It's my first decently-sized woodworking project so it's been slow, and I've made heaps of mistakes even for something so simple, but there are lessons to be learnt from each of them  Should the edges be chamfered? Would it look weird not bevelling/chamfering the edges, and having such sharp edges all over it? If so how would I do that? I have a #4 plane which I assume would be the best option, except for maybe the curved part which I could do with a rasp.
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Sep 16, 2015 07:34
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Getting ot sorry, but you could look at diying it with a cheap bar fridge and a thermostat/relay setup to control the temperature to your liking. I've seen kits at the local electronics shop for exactly this purpose but depending on how much you're into electronics you could diy the whole thing pretty easy. A normal compressor type fridge sounds more reliable than some gimcrack peltier setup to me.
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Oct 9, 2015 11:11
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My mum got me an old plane for Christmas. Got round to fixing it up a bit today. The planeiron came up ok but my sharpening jig is out of square so it's not the best job. Got some good shavings out of i through, and it'll come in very handy when I start my workbench build this month. I'd date it between 1910 and 1960, but I couldn't really find any distinguishing features to narrow it down further. Before  After       Unfortunately Australia doesn't quite have a massive quantity of used hand tools. I'm having a hell of a time finding a rebate plane. They're either completely busted or missing parts, or people want silly money for them. Tool fairs seem to be the way to go but I have to travel >2 hours just to get far enough out of the city where they normally take place. You guys in the US have it lucky!
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Jan 2, 2016 03:38
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Paul Sellers has got you covered: Fantastic! Going to try this out. I even have a spare 12mm chisel.
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Jan 2, 2016 09:13
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Thanks for the suggestion Cpt.Wacky! I threw this together last night. It's not the prettiest or most accurate but amazingly it works! It all came together surprisingly easily. Still need to make the little bottom fence thingy. 
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Jan 3, 2016 23:27
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Respirator advice is the real deal. I have one and didn't use it while I was restoring a plane yesterday (after watching that video). I've had black poo poo in my nose for the past 6 hours 
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Jan 9, 2016 23:34
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I'm planning on building a laminate bench top and I only have a #4 with no jointer or whatever. Is this going to be a massive problem? I watched Paul sellers videos on making a bench and he just used a #4 from memory.
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Jan 22, 2016 12:50
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Are you using the reflection of the edge of the work piece in the saw plate to make sure the plate is perpendicular while sawing? I was just admiring how shiny my saw was today and have never thought to do that. Thanks for the tip! To answer the original question, when I've found myself doing that I've consciously accounted for it. I also found using the longer handle on my pull-saw to keep it in contact along the length of my forearm helped.
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Mar 25, 2016 11:22
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My weekend activities! I purchased a second hand grinder so I didn't have to spend so long sharpening tools by hand. This is a POWAMAC by Crompton Parkinson. They were an electrical appliance company from the UK and they also made products in Australia, of which this is one. It is incredibly solid with a solid steel housing and stand. It weighs around 10kg on its own. Also picked up the Veritas bench grinding stand, a matching straight jig, and a diamond dresser.  Using my exciting new tools, I modified a spare Stanley #4 plane into a scrub plane, by grinding down the planeiron to have a radius and re-sharpening it. Since the grinding wheels I have are original and not the new low-temperature type, I may have overheated the planeiron on one edge. Though the marks were removed once I honed the edge so maybe it's ok.   Using my new scrub plane, I could start cleaning up some of the timber from the tables I found during hard rubbish collection last week. The scrub plane made straightening the boards a lot quicker, though it was very easy to get splintering when going diagonally across. I learned that it's very important to read the grain to avoid this. After flattening them I smoothed them with a standard #4 then a #5 smoothing plane. Unfortunately the big wide boards are just lovely pine. Not sure what the legs and side are, but they are something a bit nicer at least. All-in-all a decent haul but I had hoped for some more quality timber. Maybe next year!     
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May 1, 2016 08:57
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Good point, I shouldn't be so disparaging of pine. I just wanted some harder woods to work with because pine is all I've really had experience with - since its so cheap it's what I've always bought because I'm scared of ruining more expensive wood. Also my clumsiness doesn't help when pine is so easy to mark
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May 1, 2016 22:57
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I followed a Paul sellers video on making a rebate plane out of a block of wood and a chisel. It was surprisingly easy and worked perfectly well. I'd highly recommend it especially if you aren't sure you'd need it for heaps of other projects. Only took me an evening and I'm an absolute beginner.
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Jul 15, 2016 12:26
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Im currently building a handtool-focused workbench, based on some plans I made after reading Chris Schwarz’s Workbench Design book. Originally, I was going to use Roubo-style dovetailed mortise and tenon joints to attach the top. However, I changed my mind as I want to be able to separate the top and the base for ease of movement. The top alone is currently around 60kg and is a pain to move even with two people. Instead, I’ll use some dowels inserted into the top of the legs to hold the top in place, and possibly a few metal brackets to prevent it from lifting off the base (unlikely, but the results would be unpleasant) The stretchers are 90mm high (3.5 inches), as this was the widest stock I could cheaply acquire in the species I wanted. The stretchers would be joined to the legs with internally-mitred mortise and tenon joints. The smaller stretches, coupled with no longer having the mortise and tenon joints for the top, makes me wary of racking. Is 90mm too small for the stretchers? I'd plan on having 30mm shoulders on both the top and the bottom of the tenon.
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Sep 28, 2016 13:47
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GEMorris posted:So I built my SYP Roubo many years back, so hopefully my recollections on the joinery are still valid. I wasn't going to bother with the drawbores but you've convinced me. As for removing the top, I'll probably have to move at least 2 more times in the immediate future. Straight tenons for attaching the top sounds like a good idea, but I won't bother drawboring them till I know I won't be moving (or if it needs more stability) since it seems I could easily do that after the fact. I've never used a leg vice, only face vices like that one. In future I could replace it with a leg vice and move it to the end. wormil posted:My former lathe stand was built with ~90mm stretchers and it was very rigid but much smaller than your workbench and didn't need to resist racking forces as much. My gut tells me 90mm is undersized for a bench this size, something more like 140-180 mm would be about right. Even Scandinavian benches usually have stretchers over 100mm. The shoulders are what prevent racking, here is a technique I've used in the past to get wider shoulders without beefing up the frame too much and you can make them decorative if you want. Thanks for the help! Looks like I can get 140x45mm for the stretchers which should beef it up considerably.
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Sep 30, 2016 00:09
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Check the rails were installed the right way up, and that the detent is at the back and on the bottom. I have fixed up countless relatives lovely IKEA drawers that have had the rails put on backwards/upside down.
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Oct 31, 2016 13:03
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Yet another bench build! Some of the other benches being posted look incredible, and are getting done a lot faster than mine (been in progress nearly a year now)  To see something go from a pile of parts to something that can stand up by itself and give an indication of the final object, is an exhilarating feeling. Can't do much else tonight since its too late, but I'm so close! Left to do
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Nov 27, 2016 12:42
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GEMorris posted:On the dog holes: Thank you, this is great info. I was going to start with a metal quick release front vice, recessed into the front face of the top so I could potentially clamp larger pieces. no tail vice. I guess it would be fairly hard to change to a wooden leg vice later though... I've watched a lot of Paul sellers and he seems to manage fine with a metal vice like the one I have. Had a read up on the crucible holdfasts. Have people really had problems with 3/4 inch ones? I'd never really heard about it tho I never went looking since it seemed like a simple enough tool. Unfortunately they don't ship to Australia anyway. Will do a bit more digging and see what's available locally. Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 13:05
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Workbench is functionally complete! Test-fitting the pieces. This was the stage where I realised I was building a thing that would free-stand and take up physical space. I'm not sure why but it took until then for me to realise how "real" this thing was going to be.  Drawboring the end frames went surprisingly well! Some of the joints are not perfect (see later pictures) but I'm confident these joints will hold up for a very, very long time.   Test-fitting the completed base in the top (upside down, obviously)  At this stage, I also mounted the vice. You'll notice it's not flush. I'm going to see how this goes, and as soon as I need to clamp something big that will require clamping to the front of the bench, I will move the vice slightly and recess it into the front face. This is mainly because I am very lazy, and mounting it this way just required I drill 4 holes and install the coach screws.  And finally, the completed bench!!!  Here are some close-ups of the less-than-perfect joints. Since these were my first mortice and tenons, I think they turned out ok. Also I wish people would post more of their imperfect work, it would make me feel better :P   Preparing the stock and laminating the top + legs took the longest time out of all the steps. Like, literally months of work, on and off. If I did it again I would find someone with a power jointer/planer, but I'm still glad I did it this way my first time - I feel like it was a good learning experience. Basically everything I did on this was new to me. Looking back, heres some more info from what I did. This kind of write-up helped me a lot when I was figuring out what to do, so I'm hoping this might be useful to someone considering doing the same. Skills I learned - Squaring and preparing stock - Laminating (for the top and the legs) - Mortise and tenon joinery - Drawboring The tools I used - #4 plane - #4 scrub plane (just a #4 with a cambered blade) - #5 plane - Morticing chisel - Bench chisels (for basic cleanup of joints) - Hand router plane - Mallet - General purpose japanese pull saw - Cordless drill and spade bits for the drawbore holes - Tape measure, square, marking gauge, pencil, marking knife - Clamps (I bought 1.8m ones for the long side of the base, but since I drawbored the joints I probably didn't need them. Wish I had have realised this earlier because that was nearly $200 in clamps, but I guess you always need clamps?) Materials - 120x35mm and 90x45mm Tassie Oak (aka Victorian Ash) sold as F17 structural hardwood - Some 12mm dowel for the drawbores - Glue - Bench vice - Coach screws and washers for mounting the vice - Some old bits of pine for the vice chops, plus some screws I had laying around for mounting them I'm stoked with the final product. It is heavy, but I can still move it myself (one end at a time) if I need to. There is zero play, and the legs were perfectly level :O unfortunately, the garage floor is not, in places, so depending on where I finally put it I'll have to prop up one leg. Just having a vice (even if its not perfect right now) is loving incredible. Workholding without having to use g-clamps on a lovely old kitchen counter? Amazing! Definitely worth it.
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Dec 5, 2016 10:45
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GEMorris posted:Your bench looks great, the fact that you did all that with no power jointer or planer (and with no handplane longer than a no5) is really amazing, most people would balk at the idea of all of that work, especially if they weren't already highly skilled. Falcon2001 posted:Man, this is pretty rad. I'm working on a very similar workbench right now and will be posting my build soon once we get all moved and I finish it. Your joinery is certainly tighter than mine is, so take heart on that. Thanks! Yep, dog holes and planing stop are the next things on the list. I bought a brace and bit just for doing those. Any recommendations on planing stop designs? Cpt.Wacky posted:Paul Sellers is doing his usual end of the year christmas gift project ideas: Thanks for reminding me about these! I spent 2 hours tonight trying out the stars project. Got the first one done, and it came together surprisingly fast! If I get enough time before Christmas I'll make a few as gift tags I think. Also, squaring small stock becomes way easier with a proper vice - only took 10 minutes from some rough-cut framing timber to a nice small, square block to use for the stars.
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Dec 8, 2016 11:25
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GEMorris posted:
I'd agree with this. A hand tool workbench is simply a thing that is in such a niche market, and is so hard to ship, that I seriously doubt you could buy an adequate one for any price. Get that book. I found it for $50 at my local tool shop but I'm sure you could find it cheaper. I found it invaluable when deciding what to build and it would be useful even if you decided to buy something instead. Also, think of building one as practice where the aesthetic results don't really matter. It's also a great way to find out if you actually like the hobby, before buying a bunch of tools or expensive timber.
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Dec 19, 2016 14:13
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Some finishing questions! The house I'm renting has some wonderful bench tops, however, they got damaged a few months back and so I sanded one section back a bit to remove some obvious scratches. From memory I went up to 2000 grit dry sanding 2/3rds of the bench, then applied some mineral oil. Unfortunately, it ended up with a very matt finish and didn't match the original finish at all. Colour and everything is fine, its just entirely matt compared to the very glossy surface of the back part of the bench. In a small area I applied some boiled linseed oil mixed 50/50 with metho, and also tried rubbing in some wax as well, but it didn't really change it much. What do I need to do to get it looking like the existing benchtop? The world of finishing is entirely new to me and I don't want to gently caress this up since they aren't my benches   (You can see the front part of the bench in the photos is matt while the back part is nice and glossy)
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Dec 20, 2016 11:22
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Corky Romanovsky posted:2000 is still rather coarse when you want a mirror finish. If you suspect it is polyurethane, I think another coat on top of a clean and sanded one will restore it. Is there an easy way to tell if its polyurethane? Whatever was on before seemed to be either very thin or wasn't really a distinct layer based on what I sanded down. I'll try and hunt down some finer sandpaper anyway and see if that helps. I've also got 1000 grade steel wool but I don't really know how that compares to sandpaper.
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Dec 20, 2016 12:47
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm glad to say I've solved the problem of tearout and bothering with grain orientation in my smoother planes. Basically, fettle the chip breaker to the right specs and put it very close. Basically this 3-part guide should set you on the right way: Thanks for posting this! I spent this morning re-sharpening and setting up my number 4 and number 5 in this way and it made a big difference to planing over difficult grain. I'd previously spent a bit of time getting the edge of my cap iron sharp, but not this much. I also set the distance from the edge of the plane iron to the start of the cap iron to about 0.4mm. Going against the grain and over knots was quite successful! That final video really demonstrates the relationship between cutting depth and cap iron distance.
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Jan 2, 2017 05:29
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Got some Queensland walnut when I was back in my home state for Christmas, and had it shipped across the country. It's so nice to work with, quite hard and very crisp. Takes to end grain planing incredibly well. Went from rough sawn to perfectly flat and square in an afternoon, with a #5 and #4. It had to eventually stop when I kept dripping sweat all over the workpiece. Also the toe of my #5 got incredibly hot after a while, even though I keep it fairly well lubricated with mineral oil. Is that something to be concerned about?   Pile of shavings after, with thong for scale
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Jan 8, 2017 13:59
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The tote on my #5 has always been broken, with the plastic handle cracked around the bottom screw from over-tightening. After getting my walnut I finally had some nice material to make a new one which matched the dovetail daw I made a few weeks ago. I used the Lee Valley plans which were excellent, though I wish I had have made it a bit bigger rather than following the plans to the letter. Maybe I'll do that for some of my other planes... (images are broken till I install an SSL cert on my site, whoops. ) http://graniteoctopus.com/media/images/IMG_4338.original.jpg Holes are bored and rough outline done on the bandsaw http://graniteoctopus.com/media/images/IMG_4341.original.jpg Shaping done with some rasps, files and sandpaper, and first coat of shellac http://graniteoctopus.com/media/images/IMG_4345.original.jpg Mounted! A lot more secure than the whole handle. Not bad for an afternoon! It's a really great project for someone new to carving I think, and I wouldn't hesitate to suggest it as a project for any experience level woodworker. Hardest part was probably boring the main hole since it has to be perfectly straight, and you have to come at it from both sizes. I spent more time than usual in stock preparation to make sure both top and bottom edges were perfectly square and co-planaer. I had to borrow a friends drill press as well since I wasn't confident doing this with a hand drill.
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Jan 14, 2017 09:28
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Falcon2001 posted:Man, waxing my plane is like the craziest thing. I have a solid hunk of beeswax that I just rub on and suddenly that thing flies across the wood. It doesn't even look like it leaves any residue, but there you go. Handy tip for anyone that uses hand tools I guess. Curious to here about the difficulties you've had building it. I didn't consider it because I didn't like the big aprons, but it *seemed* simple enough at a glance. And yeah I was never selective enough about the quality of my timber. You can't spend too much time looking over pieces before you buy them.
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Jan 17, 2017 12:36
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Yes, yes it is! What plane is that? It looks really pretty.
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Jan 28, 2017 13:36
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I followed Schwarz's advice and mine is low. It's fantastic for planing but for anything else my back does get sore. Having a higher assembly/general bullshit table would be a good addition. If I used power tools more there is no way I would want one this low. Schwarz also mentioned a secondary bench you can put on top of your main bench to increase the height. Considering doing this, but I don't know how useful it would be considering all the stable work holding would be down low still.
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Feb 2, 2017 08:08
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GEMorris posted:As for drill press, I highly recommend finding a $200 or less older floor standing drill press on Craigslist. For whatever reason used drill presses are drastically cheaper than new ones, they just seem to depreciate more than other tools, and it isn't difficult in my experience to find a used one that is in good shape. Also there isn't much that can go wrong with them, as long as the bearings and motor are ok. I picked up one for nearly free, and all it needed was a new return spring and a chuck key.
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Feb 4, 2017 21:29
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What about staked? You'd get your through-tenon fix and it would have a bit more stability. Not sure how it would look without turned legs though. Also maybe it's too tall to stake? Disclaimer: I'm basing all this solely from pictures earlier in this thread.
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Feb 11, 2017 22:50
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GEMorris posted:Holy poo poo the level of passive aggressive here is off the charts, bravo. Got any progress pics? My work has the most garbo furniture and I want to make nice things but it seems like the cost would be way too high for materials alone.
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Feb 26, 2017 21:06
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Real nice. Wish there was a mill like that near me. What kind of design are you using?
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Apr 8, 2017 23:21
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Sounds like you took a good approach (its what I would have done, anyway), and its great that you had 20 to practice on! A couple of things you didn't mention but you probably learned along the way: - going parallel with the grain, but against it, could cause issues when flattening. If that was the case, I would go across the grain instead, but it would really depend on how aggressively the grain was moving vertically and how likely the wood is to splinter - scoring the bottom edge of the rebate with a marking gauge/cutting gauge can help with getting a crisper joint and avoiding tear-out, though probably not relevant if these are all half-laps and you cut with the grain - only move towards the middle, never right through the joint, to prevent tear-out (again, may not be applicable if you are going with the grain) - angle the chisel slightly towards the sky so you don't end up dishing out the middle of the joint - use your knife or the corner of the chisel blade to clean up the inside corners The only thing I would do additionally is use a router plane (or the potentially-dangerous-but-still-effective Paul Sellers poor-persons router) for levelling out the bottom of the joint after removing the bulk of the waste with chisels. These seem fairly expensive in the US and Australia compared to bench planes, but I use mine all the time for doing rebates, lap joints and cleaning up mortice cheeks. I'd highly recommend one if you're getting into hand-tool stuff. Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 07:52 on May 5, 2017 |
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May 5, 2017 07:41
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Skippy Granola posted:I took a mill file and just broke the sharp corners on my chisels about an inch back from the bevel. Saved me a whole lot of tiny cuts from the 90 degree corner when I was stabilizing paring cuts Ohh i need to do this. I didn't want to because I was worried about the reduced effectiveness when cutting deep mortices but I am getting sick of having hundreds of tiny cuts from those incredibly sharp edges. Falco posted:I asked generally in the Tools thread, but does anyone have any suggestions for a decent drill bit set. I've always gotten by with Skill or Ryobi sets, but if there is something decent out there that doesn't break the bank, I'm willing to pony up a bit for it. Then I could replace bits one by one as they break with again decent quality bits. I'm not ready to throw down $2-300, and most of the work I do is woodworking over any metal work. I can't offer any brand advice, but if you are just using these for wood, get some brad point bits instead of your standard speed drills. They leave a much cleaner hole and don't wander at the start. You'd have to keep your existing speed drills if you ever want to drill metal (and maybe plastic? idk i've switched to step drills for thin plastic and mild steel and they are incredible) but they are so much nicer I don't mind having two sets. I paid maybe $25? Also are you actually breaking your existing ones? I've never had that happen, aside from when I've been a big stupid gorilla with tiny drills. Buying them individually is going to be way more expensive than just getting a set, surely.
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May 5, 2017 22:43
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This is a bit of a shitpost of my incredibly slow bedside table project progress. Sickness and cold weather has kept me away. Also lots of mistakes. Anyway I realised the winding sticks I made ages ago weren't actually... in wind. I got out my piece of granite and made them actually straight and true and now its much easier to tell if a board is twisted.  A fairly big error I made when planning these: there are multiple mortise and tennon joints overlapping inside the legs. Once this is glued up I think it will be fine but right now I'm treating it as very fragile since there isn't much supporting material around the joints.  Today I also realised I need to do the shelf for below the drawer before I can continue. There are some offcuts from when I rip sawed the sides of the drawer I can use, but they're a bit too small so will need to be edge-jointed. They're only 9-10mm thick, but I might see if a 3mm tongue-and-groove is going to work. There will be breadboard ends supporting the span of the shelf and its only ever going to have light things on it so I'm not too worried about weight now. Alternatively.... Because the entire table will be made of Tassie oak (a fairly light-coloured timber with a slight pink/reddish tint) except the top, which will be in Queensland walnut (slightly lighter colour to American walnut) I *could* rip down an oak board to have the bottom shelf be the same species as the top. But I need to do it by hand and it will be a shitload of work. I also don't realistically have a handsaw big enough. And other experiences with ripping down large boards by hand hasn't gone too great, with my saw wandering quite a bit, I think due to the grain of the wood. Is it going to look silly having only the top be a different colour to the rest of it? \Edit: I made a crappy drawing  Hypnolobster posted:I've had a thing for box joints/cantilevers lately, so I made a headphone stand for a birthday gift. Wow this looks amazing. The box jointing into the base is so good. Makes me sad that it won't be seen that often. Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 08:37
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That's a really nice bench. Did you use brackets to join the top to the base, or some kind of mortise and tenon? Work continues on the inbuilt shelf in my bedside table. Ended up breadboarding the ends and doing tongue and groves to join the panels. Doing that with just a shoulder plane and grooving plane was fairly difficult. Do not recommend. Couldn't really get the shoulder accurate enough to have snug, gap-free joints, but they will do. Was more an excuse to try it out than anything. The ends would hold everything together more than tight enough without the t&g. Tools:   An okay groove  All the joinery done. Mortise and tenons are random sizes just to try them out, and so I don't mix them up.  Test fit  Glue up. Clamping such thin pieces with f clamps was a pain in the arse cause they kept slipping off.  After a bit of planing. Fortunately I was clever and got the grain running in optimal directions for planing, but it does need a bit more attention with a scraper.  Next up is rebating the legs to take the shelf, then tapering the legs. After that, the top, then glue up and finishing the drawer.
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Jul 9, 2017 08:46
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I got a 12mm narex morticing chisel. It seemed ok, the extra heft and rigidity was nice, but I found it twisted almost as much, and actually did more damage when it did twist because it was so thick. It's possible I was tempted to take too much off at a time, and maybe going slower I could have prevented it twisting. I have noticed in Paul sellers videos that he backs off and takes a smaller slice if it starts to misbehave.
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Sep 12, 2017 14:28
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Feenix posted:Gonna be getting some Kreg plugs. It was suggested I get a flush trim saw. Japanese, maybe? I don't know. If I'm buying a tool I don't want to buy crap but I don't wanna spend a ton if I can help it. Also ideally something I can Amazon or order simply enough... You don't absolutely need one imo. Depends how many you are going to have to trim really. Do you have a saw with a thin and flexible blade already? I got pretty close with a regular spineless japanese saw (dont remember the proper name sorry). Then I trimmed the rest with a really sharp chisel, which you would probably want to do anyway even with a flush cut saw to get rid of the teeth marks. I made a "Now playing" record holder thing for my sister. Turned out pretty well though I need to learn way more about finishes - didnt really know what I was doing with the shellac and I think I used too much because it built up around the bottom edges. How do you avoid getting glue stains? You can see in the photo at the bottom of the channel there is a dark patch where the glue seeped into the end grain even though I wiped it off straight away.
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Sep 29, 2017 07:03
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