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Since this thread is huge and daunting, sorry if this has already been addressed (it probably has; I looked a bit and didn't see). Very little experience here (a bit of home repair with my dad, a bit of making lovely tables purely for practical value). I'd like to get into woodworking, and I'd like to specifically get into old-school woodworking (i.e. little to no power tools) for various reasons, mainly (1) small budget, (2) I like old-school methods and things, (3) better apocalypse preparedness  Also, I'm not necessarily looking to do the really neat curvy stuff like in the OP, but more nice-looking, sturdy, and practical woodwork. So I found the following via a link from a link from a link in the OP: The Index of Fossil-Fuel-Friendly Woodworking Knowledge (Okay, I'm a tree-hugging hippie who is very careful about energy use, but even I don't think power tools are a misuse of energy) That list of literature is a bit...daunting, although I'll keep it on hand as a reference. As I happen to have the fortune of a very well-stocked public library, I'm going to go investigate the book situation, as I think that might be a bit more manageable for me (by the way, any recommendations on the book front?) But since you folks seem to enjoy discussing it, I figure I'd jump the gun and post... Any glaring advice (or if you point me to somewhere where this already happened in the thread), major dos and don'ts, etc., for someone brand new looking to get into most-or-all-hand-tools woodworking?
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Jan 21, 2010 17:41
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I'm the guy from before looking to get into all-or-most handtool woodworking (pending finding out whether I'm moving soon). Can anyone recommend which tools are best NOT to get used? I have a feeling chisels and planes are among them, since I'll be using them so extensively and they need to be sharp. I don't know about handsaws, or how they stand up to wear, but a nice sharp one of those might also be good. Other than that, I imagine most things would be just fine used. Advice?
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Feb 8, 2010 18:23
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Right, I've been told I'll need to sharpen them all the time anyway. I'm planning on getting a water stone. I was just worried about getting used ones that someone just let go for too long, or abused or something. But if you think older tends to be more reliable, maybe it's worth looking for old ones that didn't get abused? Tricky thing is, since I'm inexperienced, I wouldn't know how to tell if they'd been abused. Would it be obvious?
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Feb 8, 2010 19:27
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Hello thread, I built a stepstool for my toddler, fairly improv-style, it's very simple but I'm proud of how it turned out    As you can see, I don't have a very fancy setup, just some hand tools and a chair (drill is my only power tool). I also really need to get my handsaw sharpened  Anyway, e: just as I posted this KS gave more info on paint in the other thread alnilam fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 16:10
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Rather than felt I was hoping to use something non-slip on the feet, like soft plastic or rubber pads, since she will be standing on it and leaning against e.g. the sink and I don't want it to slip back on her. But regardless those should still be able to be trimmed by razor blade to even it out. Maybe I will try that before I spend ages with a coping saw or a plane trying to get it perfect 
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Apr 5, 2021 17:35
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Rutibex posted:Maybe instead of buying wood you should buy a chainsaw My cousin's next door neighbor has a small sawmill setup and built his entire house from cedar growing on the property, it's badass as hell
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Apr 6, 2021 15:38
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Idk how well they go over glasses, but I like the 3M ones that are all clear plastic. Cheap enough that I can have 5 pairs floating around the shop (and still not be able to find any of them) Yeah these ones go over glasses well enough ime
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Apr 7, 2021 14:54
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Making a carrying tray out of two 1x8 boards. It's going to be supported by a 1x2 lip around the edges but i wanted a little more support between the two bottom boards too, so I improvised this little dowel joint. I don't have a jig so I drove some small nails part way into board 1, clipped off the heads, then lined the boards up and hammered them together a little bit to mark the spots. It worked surprisingly well, the glue is drying now and my square shows them as being pretty drat flat together  I don't have a clamp big enough so we'll see how well this actually holds up though.
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May 27, 2021 21:22
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alnilam posted:Making a carrying tray out of two 1x8 boards. It's going to be supported by a 1x2 lip around the edges but i wanted a little more support between the two bottom boards too, so I improvised this little dowel joint. I don't have a jig so I drove some small nails part way into board 1, clipped off the heads, then lined the boards up and hammered them together a little bit to mark the spots. This ended up being surprisingly flat and strong for being kind of a hackjob. The rest of the project turned out awesome too.  A simple tray. For carrying? Oh no, not quite. Our small 2nd floor deck , just off the kitchen, does not have stairs down to the backyard where our outdoor eating area is. So i built a dumbwaiter.   It's so awesome, I love it so dorkily much.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:33
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Woodworking-adjacent question! My wife and I are looking at a walnut dining table that we really like. It's... a bit spendy (sale price of just over 3 grand), and crucially, we have a toddler. But we also kind of want to buy once cry once and get a nice table to enjoy for a while, instead of getting a lovely sacrificial table for the next 10 years and then getting a nicer one. I mean I grew up with a table that had been around when my mom was a kid, clearly a good table can last more than a lifetime even with kids around. The risk of course is that toddler will bang silverware and stuff on it and cause some major denting. Who knows, maybe even color on it (hopefully with washable markers). There could also be a 2nd toddler at some point. Please help me think through potential mitigating factors to toddler. Thoughts I've had so far: Walnut is a pretty hard wood and will resist scratching and denting We could put a mat down in her spot We could even cover the whole table until she's a little older (not ideal as it's very pretty as it is) Another thought I had is that worst case scenario, if it ends up badly scratched, the top surface could probably be refinished post-toddlerdom and still be a good lifelong table. As far as I can tell, it would just take some sanding and re-coating. I know sanding can be quite a task but it doesn't seem too bad - am I right that it wouldn't be too hard to refinish the top later on?
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Jul 9, 2021 17:49
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tracecomplete posted:"You can sand it down" is technically true, but other pieces in the same collection mention a "pre-catalyzed lacquer finish", which kinda makes me wonder if you will not be opening a can of worms later when you seek to match the finish (either partial matching or redoing the whole table but getting the same look you paid for). Ah drat, yeah the coating has a really nice matte look that I was wondering what it was.
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Jul 9, 2021 18:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:My question, since it's in the woodworking thread after all, is for 3k, can you not....oh hell, I won't go there. lol I definitely thought about just building one. Thing is, I know enough to make functional things, but not really nice things. A dining table seems like an ambitious place to start. Also while it could perhaps technically be done with a handsaw, mediocre block plane, palm sander, and 1" chisel... I'd probably be looking at 3k anyway after wood and tools lol
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Jul 9, 2021 20:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Step 1: don’t let babby turn into a little hellion. Thanks for your input. Yeah it's normally 4.4k here but the local store that has it is going 35% off next month. Can you elaborate on keeping the top waxed?
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Jul 13, 2021 03:32
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At most big hardware stores you can buy metal square structural tubing, or right-angle bar, that would do the trick i think. They're usually in the same area as the threaded rod and metal rod stock.
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Aug 4, 2021 21:41
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Woodworking adjacent question, didn't get a response in fix it fast so I'm cross posting here. My toddler's room has a funny little closet raised 2.5 ft off the ground (if you're wondering why, this is at the edge of the 1-and-a-halfth floor, and the closet is raised to the level of the 2nd floor).  She finds it really funny to go inside. She's getting old enough to play semi on her own, so we're thinking of building a little ramp with climbing holds for her to get up there, and make it into a little fort. Anyway I know how to build the ramp (3/4" birch ply with T-nuts for the holds, veneer on the edges to make it nice); I'm looking for ideas on how to attach it though, in a way that is both safe/sturdy, and removable. Going for an angle of like 60 degrees (so 30deg angle from the wall). It doesn't have to be mega easy to remove, it would just be nice to be possible to remove and then put it back, i.e. without unscrewing screws that go right into wood. So, bolts and nuts, shafts and cotter pins, something like that (the mount on the wall does not need to be cleanly removable, just the ramp itself). My challenges are: 1. How to attach. I could see either some very sturdy hinges, or some kind of shaft hinge with a cotter pin. Or maybe some 30deg angle brackets with bolts and nuts attaching the ramp, to make it removeable. However I'd prefer to avoid a rigid solution like angle brackets, as then my measurements on the ramp itself would have to be absolutely perfect and even then the bottom might end up slightly floating above the floor. Hinges/pins are a bit more forgiving and won't over-constrain the system. 2. Where to attach. Plaster walls so I can't really use a studfinder. Is it reasonable to assume there are studs right around, and a horizontal stud below, the doorway though? Alternately I could drill into the uh, sill? The horizontal face of the piece at the bottom of the door. Obviously then the door couldn't close but I'm willing to sacrifice the door itself if necessary. diagram  This is less of a "how do i fix" and more of an invitation for ideas, any creative ideas? 
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Dec 4, 2021 17:54
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Hmm that might be a good idea, putting the structural load onto the ramp itself so the only attachment that needs to happen is to keep it roughly in place. Then maybe some kind of simple hook and eyelet would be enough to keep it steady. Also of course the woodworking thread solution is more wood
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Dec 4, 2021 18:23
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Not pictured: rock climbing holds on the ramp
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Dec 4, 2021 19:25
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Thanks for the suggestions on the climbing ramp, I went with the suggestion of supporting the ramp itself rather than trying to hang it on the wall. It turned out extremely Just Fine. My trigonometry was impeccable, but my ability to use a rafter square and handsaw to cut a 60 degree angle was not, so there is a maybe 5 degree tilt on the legs, i.e. the ramp stands up fine but the legs are not square to the ground. Next time I will remember to dry-fit instead of relying on blind measurement, as attaching the legs a little lower would have fixed it. But my kid had a friend over and I was in a hurry to get it up. I actually got pretty drat close all things considered. I think I'll just cut and glue some shims to the bottom and call it a day. To keep it from sliding I used some hooks on the ramp and eye-bolts in the wall.  Still need to put some veneer stripson the ply edges and maybe sand and paint the vertical supports. But hey it was a big hit!
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Dec 7, 2021 19:14
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I'm looking to make a long skinny table (to go behind a couch), but looking to make it kinda style i.e. finish the tabletop slab and slap on some premade legs. What's a good source for mid century modern ish metal table legs for projects like this? I know I've heard of them being a thing you can get.
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Feb 14, 2023 22:42
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HappyHippo posted:Maybe "hairpin legs" are what you're looking for? Yes that search term brought up a lot of what I'm looking for. Thanks!
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Feb 15, 2023 17:03
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You could do whatever and then use drywall/plaster anchors
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Mar 7, 2023 23:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I suppose, but I've never been comfortable relying on anchors for any substantial load. I don't know what they'd plan to store on these shelves, but the goal is to give them more storage options in a small, cramped apartment. Yeah true, highly depends on how big of a shelf and what they're being used for. Going into studs is definitely best when it works.
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Mar 8, 2023 00:31
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Baby level post compared to much of the other stuff itt but, My walnut tables and shelves, which were very simple projects consisting of cut, sand, finish, and screw on hardware, turned out very nicely. Mainly posting to say I switched from water to oil based polyurethane and it is a million times nicer, oil 4eva The entryway shelf:   The table: 
alnilam fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Mar 14, 2023 |
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Mar 14, 2023 18:02
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Wallet posted:Which one? General Finishes' water based poly is amazing. Oh I'm working with what they have at the tru value down the block so I'm comparing Minwax water based, which was okay but a little milky and bubbly and hard to get even, vs Minwax premium oil based, which looks warm and amazing and went on like a dream
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Mar 14, 2023 20:21
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PBCrunch posted:Oil-based poly forever. Except for wintertime when it is too cold to use in the garage and too stinky to use in the basement. Yeah I couldn't wait until spring so I commandeered the basement bathroom and left its fan running. With proper ventilation it didn't stink up the house at all.
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Mar 14, 2023 21:59
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If you really want to replicate that some-assembly-required furniture feel, use metric bolts and barrel nuts
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Apr 12, 2023 23:42
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That looks fantastic, nice job on the adjustable step tracks.
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Apr 23, 2023 23:57
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Sockser posted:Go spend money on a sander. If this were a small project, whatever. Hand sanding an entire desk top? gently caress that dude, go grab some piece of poo poo from harbor freight and save yourself two hours I used to sand by hand and eventually picked up a piece of poo poo sander for $30 and it was such a good decision
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Apr 29, 2023 23:31
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Leperflesh posted:This is a recent Rex Kruger project, the Moravian Stool. He's got two videos about it: It's very pretty! But I have to ask, does the sliding dovetail bit serve any purpose other than decorative? e: question got answered while I was watching the video lol
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May 4, 2023 18:09
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Leperflesh posted:It is also an odor absorbent. My parents used to keep an open box in the fridge, to absorb fridge smells. It's also added to kitty litter, to keep down cat piss smell. Bicarbonate of soda is useful stuff. I think it's a "my dog has no nose" style joke
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May 17, 2023 03:07
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Reading that post with the  of watching Bob Ross paint a big brown streak over his already beautiful landscape, only to turn it into a happy little tree
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Jun 7, 2023 03:19
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Looking for recommendations for a general-use plane, like if you're going to have just one plane. My woodworking is very much "it's fine" / handyperson level stuff so please keep that in mind here... I'm just tired of struggling to adjust my Stanley 110 block plane that I found a decade ago in my grandparents ' basement. I was going to try to up my plane game by sharpening the blade but I looked up how to adjust it and found a video called "Stanley 110: the plane that nobody likes" and decided maybe I should just get a better plane.
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Jun 30, 2023 19:49
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Has anyone built Rex Kruger's minimum timber bench? I'm finally thinking of upgrading from my current "clamp stuff to a chair or sawhorse" style to a proper workbench. I like his videos so I wouldn't mind tossing him $15 for the plans.
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Apr 4, 2024 18:54
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Apr 5, 2024 22:26
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If your goal is to carry a big heavy box on a frame pack, can't you just use straps/webbing?
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Apr 12, 2024 22:15
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