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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Doing a mockup in 2x4s sounds like a great idea, thanks! And yeah, making the legs extend further towards the narrow end would help with stability quite a bit. As for the plumb bob trick...do you have any other context? Just searching for "plumb bob tip over" isn't turning up anything that looks relevant. It'll tip over if the center of mass (the point on which it balances) is not over the base—I'm guessing the plumb bob trick involves dropping a bob down from the center of mass and making sure it's inside the rectangle formed by the feet. The farther from the edges of the rectangle your center of mass is, the more margin you have for it to remain upright when pushing it/stacking books on the far end.
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Mar 21, 2020 04:01
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 14:06 |
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Using a magnet in the center is always going to make the structure unstable under load because all of the forces decrease as the top moves downward—the air gap is increasing and the wires are relaxing. Also, don’t forget to account for the tension in the outer wires when you compute the force on the center member. You need the outer wires to be tensioned to provide stiffness and stability, which has to be balanced at the center.
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May 17, 2020 05:04
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CommonShore posted:I've never used a track saw either but from what I've seen and read, they tend to be plunge cut and the saw is attached to the track, and set up so that the edge of the track is your cut line so you just plop the track's edge on your line and zip zip, whereas if you're using a circular saw with a straight edge you need to do more measurements to line it up (in my case, the straight edge has to be 4 7/8 inches away from the line, yes I made a template to speed up that alignment). And also they have way better dust collection, but the big difference IMO that you don’t appreciate until you use one is they have speed control, so you get a much cleaner cut (and soft start is nice too).
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Feb 24, 2021 03:23
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CommonShore posted:I considered that design but one of the constraints is that they wanted copper spindles (with visible edge birch plywood), so I'm putting the dowels inside 1" copper pipes. That means I can't access the wood to put the cross pins in. Why not have single piece dowel with copper sleeves only between the shelves? You could drill out your mortises to the dowel diameter and use the copper pipe pieces you already cut as essentially big spacers between shelves and they’d take some of the vertical load.
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Apr 6, 2021 16:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Danish oil is just very very thin polyurethane. Are you sure this is true of the Tried and True Danish oil? The packaging + SDS suggests it’s linseed oil.
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Dec 7, 2021 19:27
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GEMorris posted:My fav budget try plane option is the LV #6 and the LV Small Bevel Up Smoother. I own both and think they are great, but I won't argue that a LN #7 would make a better try plane. Can you comment on the small vs regular bevel up smoother? I‘ve had my eye on the latter because the blades are interchangeable with the low angle jack plane (which I have) but I’ve also seen you recommend the SBUS a lot in here.
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Feb 9, 2022 19:22
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 14:06 |
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El Spamo posted:I have learned firsthand why hickory is a synonym for being hard and ornery. Yeah, we put hickory floors in our kitchen. I spent a whole day sanding on 60 grit and still have a few low spots I missed. It is really pretty though, I made this salt cellar as a gift this past Christmas using leftover floorboards.   e: Also—try a card scraper instead of sanding korora fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Apr 19, 2022 |
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Apr 19, 2022 18:06
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