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Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Are expensive pocket hole jigs worth it? I am just getting started with out wood working. I have some c clamps, and a drill and a couple saws from my home improvement projects.

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Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I underestimated the amount of saw dust involved with using a router. I regret not just buying the stupid $25 edge guide right away. I spent way to much time trying to make a jig to put a dado in 4”x4”x8’.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

now it’s too short so you cut the opposite side down....

I am perfectly capable of doing this without miters being involved

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I need more clamps, I have a cheap set of spring clamps from one of the box stores. I would like to be able to clamp some bigger pieces down, so I am thinking 6" to 12" inches. Do I just buy a a couple of cheapest bar clamps I can find online? Is there some super value brand out there?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I sanded what was left of clear coat off my cheap kitchen table then applied polyurethane. I really should have stopped after 3 coats. Coat 4 looked bad, I tried sanding it off and applying another coat. It didn’t help. Now I am 5 coats in the and sick of the project.

Also labeling drying time using an ambient temperature of 77 degrees is complete trash.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

If you sand the last coat level and then rub it out with 000 steel wool/maroon scotchbrite pad and wax it with clear, it makes a world of difference. Most mediocre finishes can be made excellent with rubbing out.

Thanks I will give this a try, the table is back in kitchen right now so that might be a project for next weekend.


On the topic of pressure treated lumber and decks, I want avoid replacing a couple 2"x6"x12' on my deck. Delivery/truck rental would more than double the price of a lumber I need. What is this problem called and recommendations on fixing it?

My current list of ideas:

- just fill if full of epoxy that I have
- find some out door rated wood filler product at a box store
- square up the hole using chisels(maybe use a router?) and make a insert out of scrap and apply wood glue

Example A:

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Not sure if it even reaches the level of "it's fine wood working" but I spent most my afternoon working my scrap wood work bench complete with old pasta sauce jar full of screws. I still need to make legs for the little section in the corner.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Is that half shank rule of thumb for hardwood? I am trying to figure how dumb I been cutting 1/2” deep grooves with a single pass in pine with my Dewalt trim router.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I have purchased, used and miss placed a clamp in less than 3 hours.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I found it clamped to the underside of my bench while cleaning up with the shop vac.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I think I found my next project.

https://twitter.com/paulabke/status/1385165573382938629?s=21

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Is there a idiots guide to picking hardwood somewhere? Second want to make a desktop, is there anything I should know before buying butcher block from a big box store?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Do you mean like ‘what wood should I use for this purpose’ or ‘when I’m at the lumberyard, how do I know which boards to buy’?

There’s a lot of stuff that gets sold as ‘butcher block’ these days. Especially at the big box places a lot of it seems to be really soft wood like aspen that I would avoid. Birch is a good choice that stains pretty well, as is oak. Those are the two species you’re most likely to find. Beech is a good choice too if you want something easy to stain.

Also yeah lol do not go the Bad Munki route.

Which wood should I use for what purpose? All my woodwork up to now has been in cheap pine and scrap wood that came with the house.


I am thinking about birch butcher block from Home Depot. Maybe drill a whole or two, then sand and stain. Finally mount to a metal frame.

Edit: When it comes to quality, I have more time and money than skill.

Calidus fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Apr 28, 2021

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I put a bottle of wood glue in my back pocket and forgot about it…

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
If the pieces were all cut before hand, connecting different joints could be cool. Kids could feel how the different joints come together.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I would like to be installed in my basement and possibly also in my garage.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I have decided to pick up a piece of Acacia butcher block. I already have some mineral oil, polyurethane and a couple different colors of stain from other projects. I am thinking I just have to try out options on the under side and see what I like? I have seen a number of pictures of tung oil on butcher block so I might also pick some of that up.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Tung oil is amazing

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Google and the local hardwood dealer make it sound like finding Acacia lumber is going to be pita. If I want to make a small shelf to match anyone have recommended on another wood to use?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Leperflesh posted:

Where do you live?

Northwest Ohio. Indiana and Michigan are both drivable.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

From your pictures though, I’d look for black locust (a close acacia relative, but mostly the color is what I’m thinking of) or mesquite. Walnut would be close too but it’s a little darker/purplier than your picture, especially if you oil it. If you’re in the Midwest or Northeast there’s a good chance you can find locust at a small hardwood sawmill fir fairly cheap. There’s some exotics from Africa that have that same tan/brown color-sipo, Utile, and iroko are the names that come to mind but they might be too red. Look them up on wood database though and see. You could also go for something completely different and contrasting like blonde maple or dye/stain something black or something.

Thank you! I definitely go see if I can get some black locust. Now I am wondering if need to start mapping out hardwood dealers and how close they are to relatives.

Calidus fucked around with this message at 02:03 on May 25, 2021

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I have a bottle of Howard feed-n-wax beeswax and orange oil. Can I apply that over tung oil finish with steel wool?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
It looks like a really fat router table

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Quick sanity check, threaded steel inserts are best way to attach this butcher block to a metal desk frame right?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Wasabi the J posted:

I watched a vid of some guy who makes a lot of big slab desks saying that he uses those with slotted bolt holes in the legs so the wood can expand and contract without tension or compression.

Hopefully the temp and humidity in my house don’t change that drastically but it’s something I wouldn’t have thought about on my own.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Me while applying oil: these knots are really pretty

Me sinking nuts: knots in acacia are really hard to drill though and I hate them

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I worked at glass fabrication company for 5 years (in IT but you still pick up stuff at a small business).

Scoring and snapping glass by hand is pretty easy to get the hang of if you are just making rectangles out of thin glass. That said putting glass that isn’t tempered or laminated in your house is asking for big messy cuts. Depends on your area but I believe most buildings codes required tempered or laminated glass in residential buildings.

I would recommend finding a commercial window installer or a shower door installer and ordering tempered glass cut to size. 3/16 and 1/4 clear tempered glass is pretty cheap.

Edit: buy your self a pair of cut resistant gloves

Calidus fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jun 14, 2021

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Lowe’s clearance has a bunch of Swanson straight edges. I picked up 100” straight edge for $8. Who needs a track saw.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I want make a coffee bar for my kitchen. Two shelves in the 14”x 72” range would do it. My first thought was float a piece butch block with pocket holes. The construction would be simple assuming pocket holes could hold the weight. Could I reasonably I stain birch butcher block to match the red oak in the rest of the kitchen?

Other option that came to mind was use red oak for the shelf and make some Corbels but this would require me to get good.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

extravadanza posted:

Can you diagram what you are planning? I wouldn't trust pocket holes on a cantilevered board. They are great when supporting on both sides like a bookshelf or something, though.

Thanks I needed to know how crazy the pocket hole idea was. I work on drawing something up, everything is very pie in sky right now.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
When a stain is something like “Red Oak”, what would you need to do to actual red oak to get a similar color?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
All the wood(trim, paneling, doors) in my house is a “red oak” color. I have used minwax red oak stain to do some repair work. I want make some shelves to match. I bought a piece of scrap red oak to play with. Guess I try mineral oil and fake tung oil before I buy more finishes.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Does this style of plywood have a special name?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Thanks so much

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I found it in my house from the previous owner. It probably from building the house in the 80s. I think it’s leftover shelf boards. It seems very nice to work with so far.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Making a coat rack for the garage.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Shipping is only $15 to the East coast….

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
The problem with ripping 2x4s with a circular saw is clamping them down.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I am considering trimming an oak cabinet to make a new fridge fit. I have a local guy who can make me new doors and color match at reasonable price.

1. Remove doors
2. Measure
3. Clamp a straight edge to the cabinet
4. Measure again
5. Remove/cut bottom rail
6. Cut Center Stile
6. Remove bottom/shelf (I see this potentially being a pita)
7. Raise (maybe replace) Bottom/shelf
8. Trim stiles
9. Figure out how of the original material I can reuse and cut replacement pieces
10. Put back together

This is a reasonable thing to attempt right?

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Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Mr. Mambold posted:

A drawing instead of this list would be much more informative.

Couple more experienced guys said they wouldn’t touch the project so yea this idea is DOA.

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