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So a few months back I made a coffee table out of some brazilian cherry flooring that I had laying around. Everything was fine, until I stored it in a basement that got *very* humid due to a little bit of flooding. Now the top is all bowed and hosed up. The construction of the whole thing is essentially a piece of plywood onto which I screwed the leg/shelf assembly, and then glued the top boards on. Basically the plywood bowed down the middle, lengthwise. Would screwing some sort of brace into the bottom of the plywood suck it back down, or should I just let it stay bowed, and sand/plane the top flat? (Edit: I can't work imageshack, 'cause I'm dumb, so picture attached below. Excuse the dust.) Slugworth fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Nov 17, 2008 |
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Nov 17, 2008 06:31
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 00:48 |
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Ta-da?
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Nov 17, 2008 06:38
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That looks to be the newest version of the model I bought a couple years ago, and I've loved it. I am just a hobbyist, not a contractor or anything, but I have absolutely no complaints with it at all. Used it extensively on 3/4" brazilian cherry, and it never slowed down.
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Nov 19, 2009 22:55
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wormil posted:I find Lowes to be more logically organized but otherwise, not really.
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Mar 26, 2010 05:21
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I certainly wouldn't go to Home Depot with any expectation of knowledgeable employees, but the chain itself, at least in my area, is pretty indispensable.
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May 3, 2010 03:06
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Anubis posted:Eeesh, that's an "interesting" fence you got there, anytime you move it your going to have to be super careful about how it's positioned.
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Aug 15, 2010 02:06
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theitguys posted:Maybe it's because I was drunk when I saw the commercial, but I want this seeing as I have no saws to speak of. Tell me it's as useless as all the other infomercial crap so I don't buy it. DANGEROUS BOTH HANDS I could see it being vaguely useful to someone who owns no other tools, but it's basically a tool that is capable of performing tasks that other tools do well, poorly. They show it being used to make miter cuts, but I wouldn't trust my unsteady hands to make a perfect miter cut. They show it ripping a piece of lumber, which would take *forever* and again, without a fence, probably not be the straightest rip ever. Might be a decent enough imitation of a bandsaw, but I'll let a bandsaw goon correct me on that. And then there's the other classic informercial catch - Even assuming it's a good idea, is it quality built? Probably not Slugworth fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Oct 22, 2010 |
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Oct 22, 2010 21:33
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GEMorris posted:If you happen to be in the Raleigh, NC area, the Knightdale Home Depot has two of these in stock, for $130, on a clearance marked end-cap near the tools section.
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Jan 26, 2011 02:45
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Guitarchitect posted:It could be Ipe, too - that stuff is a bit oily and hard as a rock. But cumaru is definitely the lighter of the two. In any case, if it's either of those that's one fancy palette you've got there.
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May 20, 2012 14:12
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Blistex posted:NO! These things are a waste of time, gas, wood, and money. They do not work as advertised and I've yet to meet one person who has had a good experience with these hunks of junk. The best thing to do is to find someone with a sawmill and give him the hangdog-look or some money so he'll cut the wood for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyvGCibr7ms Slugworth fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jun 10, 2012 |
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Jun 10, 2012 04:15
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Bad Munki posted:e: Oh man, you changed the video. The first one was waaaaay better for the crazy factor. Here, I'll post it myself because it was hilarious:
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Jun 10, 2012 23:51
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null_pointer posted:Is there a formula or a method to cutting crown moulding without a miter box that will allow me to keep my sanity? But it would be a lot easier to buy a cheap miter box. Or use those corner transition blocks that they make for miter-less corners.
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Jan 20, 2014 23:53
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Tool question time! This might be a better option for people with space issues. Or a couple clamps and a straight edge.
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Feb 8, 2014 03:19
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Do you trust yours enough to use for important jobs, or was it more a fun project that won't be replacing your bubble levels? Looks great
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Feb 23, 2014 20:05
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Blistex posted:We have this saw as my school. The kids and I loath it. Oh, angle guide is totally off. By like two full degrees. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Apr 3, 2014 |
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Apr 3, 2014 14:58
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jvick posted:Are both of those RX-7s? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3562990&pagenumber=1&perpage=40 His ongoing thread in ai, if you are interested in the cars
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May 1, 2014 19:56
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I am trying to refinish the doors in my house, but I have hit a dead end. The doors are recessed panel, with a roman ogee edge around each panel. Today, I spent about an hour using a little wood carving tool and a rolled up sheet of sandpaper to sand the ogee detail, and *thought* I had at least half-assed it enough that it might pass muster. However, when I stained it, the edge didn't really take any stain. A) I'm an amateur, but it honestly looked like I had gotten down past all the poly to bare wood - Why wouldn't it have taken stain? B) Holy hell, is there a better way to do this?
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Jun 26, 2014 04:20
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Frogmanv2 posted:Try a sanding sponge. Or maybe one of those sanding mop type things that you stick in a drill. I was also looking at videos of how to make a custom profile sanding block, but I am not sure it would work on such a small scale of detail - The videos I saw seemed aimed at sanding large pieces like crown.
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Jun 26, 2014 15:02
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Got another question about refinishing old doors. Why am I putting myself through this? But also, when I am using the belt sander on the doors to remove the poly, the poly keeps getting sort of gummed up, and I end up with long streaks of gummy goo all over the door, and then the belt gets all gummed up and useless. Am I correct in thinking this is related to the belt getting too hot, or does old poly just do that? Any way to avoid it?
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Jul 10, 2014 03:24
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Stultus Maximus posted:Add in wood windows and all the frames and I'm right there with you Thankfully the belt sander has had no issue with any of the trim so far. Just the doors for whatever reason. And whoever suggested a steel brush for detail work earlier - You are a wonderful person.
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Jul 10, 2014 04:03
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I am gonna be setting up a 125 gallon aquarium soon, and the stand doesn't have adjustable legs, so I am gonna need to fix that. Anyone have recommendations for affordable heavy duty (1500 lbs) adjustable legs? For reference, I am currently considering something like these - http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-lifting-leveler but need something a bit beefier. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Jul 29, 2014 |
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Jul 29, 2014 15:56
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I did demolition for 7 years and didn't wear respirators/dust masks as often as I should have (nobody in the company did). Slowly I started getting more sensitive to dust of any sort, and now *need* to wear a respirator for any woodworking or I quickly get a sore throat and a cough. My lungs have been xrayed and auscultated and given a clean bill of health, but yeah, don't be me.
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Sep 12, 2014 03:46
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I have some old boards (one by) that I want to rip down and use to build a picture frame similar to this - I am stumped as to how to build it though. Just a ton of half laps? That seems... Tedious. Someone tell me the really easy way that I am overlooking please.
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Nov 29, 2014 04:49
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captainblastum posted:Dadoes. I might not catch your meaning - Dadoes to hold the glass in place, or for the actual frame assembly? I was planning the former, but can't really picture how the latter would work. Essentially just a dado cut into the side of every member, and then tenons as needed? For now I am thinking half laps in a few spots to give the whole thing a bit of structure and then just glued butt joints where I feel lazy.
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Nov 30, 2014 07:08
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wormil posted:broad hatchet
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Dec 26, 2014 18:51
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revmoo posted:I'm not really very good with woodworking, but I'm welding together a sort of an end table for my living room to house all my electronics and I'm having trouble finding the wood I need for the top. What I want is a single piece of wood 22"x22" in half-inch thickness. I'm not overly concerned with the type of wood as long as it's flat and true without knots and can take a stain. What I'm finding is that all of the online wood suppliers only sell planks, not boards. Home Depot is the same situation. The only single pieces large enough that I've found have all been plywood. I'm trying to avoid the hassle of using veneer+ply, and I'd also rather not have to use multiple planks to make up the top. Home Depot should sell laminated pine boards that should be big enough for your purposes, at least the ones near me do. The misunderstanding here might be that the size of board you are looking for doesn't really exist. Table tops are either veneer, plywood, or laminated planks - That is, planks glued together. Past a certain width, maybe a foot or so, a single board would start warping and bending.
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Jan 12, 2015 18:28
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Bad Munki posted:I wear a full body condom when I'm in the shop. Well yeah, who's gonna take the time to remove their leisure wear every time they step into the shop? You'd burn through talcum powder way too fast.
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May 2, 2015 03:26
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In lieu of finding thinner maple to use for a little dovetail box project, can I rip some inch thick stock down in my table saw, or will that result in warping down the line?
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Jun 8, 2015 01:55
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Geop posted:As someone who is more starved for clamps than most, I'm thinking of jumping on this
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Sep 3, 2015 18:53
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What do the more experienced folks think? I think I see some longer clamps on here that look to be ~$100+ by themselves; not sure what the smaller blue things are on the lower part of the second pic, on the right.
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Decided to try dovetails for the first time, and not having a dovetail saw figured 'eh, my coping saw will probably work fine'. It did not. I get that it is a hard to quantify question, but will a cheap dovetail saw give me better results, or is the fault more likely in the user than the saw?
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Sep 26, 2015 05:15
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The Dave posted:We're refinishing a mantle and I'm wondering if anyone has any tools they recommend to get in the corners and cracks. Because at this point it feels like it's never going to be done. Stripper plus a wire brush is great for corners and grooves. Just use a light touch.
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Oct 23, 2015 19:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Mobile carpentry shop aside, how does she get out of that little cockpit thing?
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Nov 23, 2015 00:29
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I mostly use my belt sander for cutting boards.
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Feb 17, 2016 18:40
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They should make a device like the clapper, but it only responds to soul-rending screams of pain and terror.
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May 30, 2016 13:07
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Corla Plankun posted:From a machine learning standpoint, it would be really hard to differentiate pain and terror from normal, everyday router noises. Can't decide if it's horrifying or comforting that machines can't identify terror.
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May 30, 2016 18:46
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Is it as horrifying as I'm picturing when a bandsaw blade snaps?
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Aug 13, 2016 13:39
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All my joints are just wrapped in electrical tape.
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Oct 2, 2016 01:23
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Anyone have a set of plans for a small box that they'd recommend for a beginner that might result in a box worth giving as a gift? I get that this is fairly google-able, but I figured someone here might have a good suggestion.
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Oct 2, 2016 04:14
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wormil posted:Actually the Wood Whisperer has several excellent videos ...
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Oct 3, 2016 06:07
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 00:48 |
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Bad Munki posted:Why are mommy and daddy fighting
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Oct 4, 2016 02:00
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