|
I'm upgrading my current craptastic workbench and going with a Sellers design. It'll be all big box lumber. Any thoughts or additions? Would I be better off buy a bunch of 2X12's, curing them for a month, and then ripping down to size for the top? I've had my issues with the local 2X4 stock at Menards.
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2016 12:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 21:39 |
|
|
https://i.imgur.com/CJSz8bl.mp4 I made a bench! First of nine total. I wanted a low maintenance surface treatment. Wood is northern white cedar. Next benches will only have the top flame'd and that will be done pre-assembly in one big batch.     Dog for scale.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2020 00:38
|
|
|
Ranidas posted:I've seen that advice before when reading through this thread, and I looked, but it's a little intimidating as I don't know what I'm looking for. Do any of these seem like good options if people don't mind talking a look? GEMorris laid it out pretty well. I went down the vintage plane route and now they are all ornaments. (I use Lee Valley now) As far as what to look for...  This is your frog and the rigidity of your blade is directly tied to this. Stanley switched to a stamped steel frog instead of a forged one. But the era will define how well the forged one looks. The above frog is OK but would benefit greatly from lapping with a 220 grit pad glued to a piece of marble tile.  Woodcraft has this really good graphic. All of these points assume a decent plane. If the blade is warped beyond repair then you get issues, lay this on said marble tile and see if it rocks from corner to corner. You can adjust skew, but a terribly warped blade can be a nightmare. The next biggest spot is where the frog mounts to the plane body. I've seen planes where only the upper contact points are in contact leading to a weird chatter and diving cut. The last issue I've seen is the throat is terribly worn from a very well used plane. I picked up a monster #8 jointing plane with .030" sole wear and in hindsight I should've just bought a new one. Even with a full machine shop it was still a bear to surface grind it flat. There's also the japanese style of planes or the Krenov style. I like iron tools but I've seen some amazing results off of those and the price from Lee Valley is like $40. edit : Another good pic from Woodcraft about good-bad planes. 
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2020 14:23
|
|
|
Dewalt 735 question. I'm planing northern white cedar, about 1/32 per pass, 8" wide boards, standard blades (very sharp). It'll plane a couple of boards beautifully then the drive wheels are unable to propel the next one. It'll spin and leave black marks and I can push-pull it through, but I'm at a loss as to what is happening. I've cleaned the rollers, waxed the bed, cleaned everything. The really odd part is it always happens on the same boards. I struggled through the pile, but it was really frustrating. Is it some oddity with the cedar? Anyone have any ideas on how to up the grippiness of the roller?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2020 15:41
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:That definitely sounds weird, I've never had a feed problem that wasn't fixed by waxing the bed, or in one case, waiting until it was less humid (I won't try to explain that one, but it was extremely high humidity and it felt like the board kept sticking). Not a single bit. On the boards it planes fine, it'll take 1/16" no issue. The boards it won't plane still have that issue even if I adjust it so the cutter barely touches.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2020 16:10
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:You could run some sappy pine through, but that might make things worse overall. I never thought of cedar as being a particularly slick or oily? wood. I got some nasty spruce sitting around, I'll bust that done. Prior I'd used both mineral spirits and Purple Cleaner to get all the pitch off of the rollers.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2020 16:36
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:I had the same issue several years ago when I planed a whole bunch of northern white cedar for a fence. I never did solve it, just got used to having to push/pull some boards through. I also found when planing the cedar the breaker would trip every now and then, that never happened on harder woods or anything, only the cedar Huh, weird. Oh well, I've only got a few more boards to plane up and I should be good. It seems a bit better if I run the board through right on the very outside of the tray. I've tried skewed and it didn't seem to make much difference.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2020 19:45
|
|
|
Dewalt Planer update. Lower humidity today and zero issues. Planed a bunch of the same batch of cedar without a single hiccup. Weird stuff.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2020 02:40
|
|
|
nosleep posted:I am still in the process of finalizing plans to get my 10x20 carport closed in to shop and got some great advice here a few weeks ago and just wanted to ask a couple follow-up questions. Check with your electrician, he'll have an idea on what is standard in your area (code) for poo poo like that. Lights are marginal amps (LED), table saw FLA will be 10-15 amps, and is pretty common for stationary 120V AC tools. You should be able to google your equipment name followed by "amps" or "fla" (full load amps). Forced air gas, like a Modine, would be one option. Another is a portable oil or water filled space heater. No moving parts, nothing exposed to flame, exterior will never get hot enough to combust dust. I heated a similar sized small garage last winter with a ceramic element electric space heater. My climate sees winter temps down below 0 F. It isn't toasty warm, but I was able to get things done.  I'm now out of the spacious 10X20 garage and into an 8X10 shed... Still a work in process. edit : You could ask the Wiring thread too, https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739&pagenumber=336#lastpost Yooper fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Sep 17, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Sep 17, 2020 00:27
|
|
|
El Mero Mero posted:It doesn't have any sort of finish right now and I've been thinking about whether it needs a finish or treatment of some sort. Curious to hear what folks in this thread think. I wouldn't do poo poo. And if I did do anything it would absolutely not be polyurethane unless you want to slip in your socks getting out of the loft and smash your face down 7 rungs. If anything I'd try to match the color of the other woodwork around it and use a stain. If you're dead set on a smooth finish then I'd look at adding PSA anti slip pads. That place looks cool, I'd sleep there. The timberframed look is spot on.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2020 13:10
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:There are goons in the audience. That might be exactly what they want. Only if op posts it in the Schadenfreude thread.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2020 15:17
|
|
|
cheese eats mouse posted:What’s the general consensus on restoring and maintaining teak? It’s for a lamp so dust is a concern and it’s pretty dry and brittle (some cracks/warps have popped up). Oof. The arc itself it cracking across the grain, it's going to be tough. Ideally you'd give it a support on the inside and outside of the strip. Anything I can think of to reinforce it would be pretty drastic. First thing that came to mind was a thin strip of fiberglass epoxied to the arc. Unless it's really high up you'll notice it and it would definitely change the character. You could try removing the arc strip and gluing in a new replacement. If it's hide glue steam will take it out.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 23, 2020 02:23
|
|
|
Anyone have experience with Wahuda jointers? They offer a tabletop 8 inch with helical cutterhead for a decent price but I can't find much info.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 23, 2020 18:33
|
|
|
Elem7 posted:I was looking at those several months back, looks an awful lot like they're just selling a rebrand of nearly identical Rikon models under the name of a new Chinese company and being that they're such an unknown I don't know why you'd go with them over the Rikon because there's not a big price difference. That is unless you're like me and you can't get Rikon equipment shipped here cheaply whereas Amazon is happy to ship the Wahuda for free. Yup, you're right. Spitting image of the Rikon. I'll go with the Rikon if anything for that price.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 24, 2020 01:18
|
|
|
Bondematt posted:It's all out of the same factory. The Wahuda 8" comes with cast iron tables, the Rikon does not, but the Rikon has a 5 year warranty and you can pretty much guarantee they will be there for it. Wahuda was known as Cutech until a year or two ago, so I don't exactly expect them to be around for their full 2 year warranty anyway. Cool, thanks dude. Rikon it is. cheese eats mouse posted:I live in a NYC apartment with only basic tools and definitely no woodworking experience. Best I can do is approach my luthier friend about taking on/helping me with a weird repair project when I go back home to visit family in KY since he’s the only one I know with any wood shop tools. A luthier would be probably the most qualified person to make a repair like that out of any woodworking specialty. Gorilla glue, at least the basic one, will foam as it cures. But there are like 90 flavors of Gorilla glue now. If yours is the original it's probably not the right one for this job.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 24, 2020 12:24
|
|
|
I'm using a 10" Kobalt slider and a 12" fixed. The slider will cut a 12" wide board, while the Bosch 12" will top out at 7 1/4" wide board. Regardless how finely I tune the 10" it will not cut as cleanly, sharply, or squarely as the 12" does. So I keep a generic blade on the 10" slider and use a fine tooth Forrest blade on the 12" for pretty much all my finish cuts. Maybe if I had a Festool Kapex the slider would cut as cleanly as the fixed, but I can't justify $1500 on a miter saw.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2020 15:39
|
|
|
 I'm trying to make a sliding joint. Ideally I'd have an old school shaper and grind the blades as I need, but I don't, so I'm curious if you folks have any ideas? Initial thought is plunge with a straight router bit then go to a plunge router bit with a 20 degree bevel, or whatever near there I can find, and remove the rest. Am I on the right path?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2020 00:18
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:Do you have a tablesaw? That's a pretty simple groove and two bevels on the concave side and what amounts to an angled rabbet on the other. Probably also doable with some careful jig setup with a circular saw, but that wouldn't be fun. A table saw would work. I'd just need to keep the meeting point clean so I don't get a weirdo transition burr.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2020 00:55
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_edgeband_ogee.html Edge band set looks neat, just not quite the angles I need. Might still work though, will have to test first variants and see. Granite Octopus posted:How many times will you need to repeat this operation? 6 sets, though if it goes well probably more. Hypnolobster posted:I'd say cut just barely shy of them meeting perfectly and just clean it up with a chisel, since you're already cutting a nice big clean reference surface to work from. Though, the blade on the angle cut will present a pointy edge that you should be able to sneak up to the groove perfectly so that might not be necessary. I'm going to give that method a try, should give me the most control. Will have to get a fresh zero clearance insert for this sort of thing. Thanks dudes! Going to be making a clone of a Berlebach tripod for a telescope of mine.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2020 03:19
|
|
|
SouthShoreSamurai posted:Has anyone here built a fold down desk? With the wife and I working from home, her office is our bedroom and her desk has been a foldable TV dinner stand. She's requested I build her a fold down desk. Looking around on-line for inspiration, and it's mostly just pinterest garbage. Lee Valley has some cheap folding leg brackets that work surprisingly well. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/hardware/table-hardware/legs/leg-brackets/40035-folding-leg-bracket?item=00T1601
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2020 04:03
|
|
|
poopinmymouth posted:Sad my windows didn't get any comments. Your windows are solid dude. I like 'em. Windows are kind of like picture frames, finicky, often looked through and not looked at, and not something I'd ever think of making. Mainly because in my climate vinyl windows with triple pane is becoming the norm. I've got the LV Large Router plane and really like it. It feels nice and solid.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2020 12:32
|
|
|
poopinmymouth posted:If you have a brain that visualizes things in 3D, and don't mind learning programs, I highly suggest giving at least SketchUp a try, or Blender. It can be very enjoyable for the right sort of brain. That's super sweet dude. More woodworking projects need exploded animated drawings. I use Fusion360 professionally and also for my woodworking projects. I found Sketchup to be a terrible hateful thing but I know some folks get good use out of it. It is surprisingly popular in the timberframing world. But for a solid parametric modelling program that is free I like Fusion. If you're a Solidworks person you can get a $40 membership to the EAA and get a student license of Solidworks with it. One really nice thing about Fusion and SW is the wealth of online tutorials. You can google "dovetails Fusion360" and some turbonerd will have a 4 minute step-by-step video on how to do it way easier than whatever you planned on.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 12:39
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:The "which saw" debate shows up fairly frequently, though not so often that I can just point you to the last time it happened. Let me see if I can sum up the pros/cons of your various options: How does this differ from a European woodworking standpoint? I'm thinking products like Festool that focuses on guide rails for circular saws or sliding tables for table saws. (Not necessarily a question for TooMuchAbstraction, but a EuroGoon in general)
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 20:05
|
|
|
You can get OSHA approved bluetooth hearing protection as well, so if you want to listen to a podcast or something you can and still be OSHA (or whatever is in Canada) compliant. A basic cloth mask is better than nothing, but it's worth knowing what you're breathing. If someone sticks you on a HVLP spray station, you will likely require different respirator or catridges. Depending on what you're breathing, it may be the employers responsibility to provide this. For example woodworking dust below a certain threshold would be optional, ie on your dime. But if it's a nasty chemical then your employer would be required to give you (not make you buy) a P100 or Acid Gas Respirator, or whatever you need to be safe. Know how to read an SDS and recognize when there's an issue. A good family friend is in his mid 50's with terrible COPD. He was a union carpenter / cabinetmaker until 5 years ago.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2020 19:19
|
|
|
Bi-la kaifa posted:I should probably shave my great big bushy beard then, eh? It depends on what you're exposed to. We have some nasty stuff that requires P100 Acid Gas cartridges and fitting tests with operators. If they have big beards they tend to have issues with the fitting tests. However if it's just normal dust, then your beard isn't going to make a big difference unless you're the guitarist from ZZ Top or something. Your mask will still catch a majority of the poo poo, it's only when its terribly toxic is missing that 1% going to be an issue.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2020 22:43
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Pocket screws always seem to pull things OUT of alignment for me, so I wouldn’t recommend them. Dowels are better, biscuits are best. You can also break it down into several different glue ups and just use cauls across the joint. If it’s a tight joint, you can usually move things around with a rubber mallet when the bar clamps are about 3/4 of the way tight to do it by feel. I did a dozen cedar benches and used a combination of pocket screws and dowels that solved my pulling issue. Otherwise yes, totally, regardless how much clamping force I use that pocket screw seems to tweak it just enough to piss me off.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2021 18:56
|
|
|
Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of, is there some weird tool supply issue? I was going to get either the Porter Cable 450 or DeWalt 611 compact router this winter and they are either out of stock or listed at ridiculous prices. Supply chains continue to be really bonkers right now. Not as bonkers as they were 6 months ago, but still really crazy. The normal forecasting tools that a lot of these firms use just poo poo the bed with covid, so the forecast said zero sales yet everyone is stuck inside going batshit crazy and just wanting to buy. Same thing is happening with camping-hiking stuff, astronomy, basically anything you can do outside and not in a crowd. Purchasing a kayak was virtually impossible a few months ago.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2021 17:09
|
|
|
I just sold a 3phase milling machine to a guy who put it in his garage and is using a Digital Phase Shifter instead of a rotary converter. He picked it up on Amazon for $105 for a 2 hp motor. It's light duty stuff but he's had no issues with it. All of his gear head buddies are switching to those from the old rotary phase converters. Previously I've installed the Automation Direst GS line but after having quality issues we swapped to a ABB ACS150's for approximately the same money.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2021 19:18
|
|
|
Bouillon Rube posted:I found this pallet in a trash pile on a construction site near my house. Seems like the slats might be usable, any easy way to tell what kind of wood it is? Cedar maybe?  If it's a locally made pallet then it's probably whatever wood is common in your area. The grade is likely about the worst possible. Sawmills will take the straight-clear stuff and sell it for the highest value. Then things like the core get sold for railroad ties (at least in my area with hard maple) and the slats or lower quality bits get trimmed into pallet wood. Sawmill operators are extremely clever at getting every single piece of usable wood out of a log. The thing that can make pallet wood so attractive is the defects because it is poo poo they would normally throw away. It'll have a HT stamp on it somewhere, or a certification mark, if it's heat treated. If you see that just throw it away. They assemble the pallets with green wood and heat treat the whole works. So once you start cutting and pulling nails you'll find that the wood is breaking apart or warping. The nails are not normal nails, they will be pneumatically driven, spiral, glue coated nails. We had an all birdseye maple pallet come in once and I snagged it. Instead of pulling the nails I just used a circular saw and cut parallel to the stringers. After about a month it had all split apart and was useless.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 30, 2021 15:23
|
|
|
CommonShore posted:WTF is going on with this saw It's a metal cutting bandsaw. A Harbor Freight or some such knock off. 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2021 15:47
|
|
|
epswing posted:I’ve gotten the sense from this thread that planes are worthless unless they’re older than my grandfather and can only be found at garage sales and estate auctions. As someone who knows nothing about planes, why is that? That's for used planes. You can buy a perfectly excellent new Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or a wide variety of wooden bodied Japanese or Krenov style planes. From some time in the 1930's up to today, there are mass produced planes that are sub standard. A $30 Stanley plane from Home Depot will not perform as well as a $250 Lee Valley plane. The crapshoot is like Hypnolobster just ran into, is that garage sale plane the desirable model? Or the one that's all stamped sheet metal brazed onto a craptastic base?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2021 01:33
|
|
|
I've got the Veritas guide and I like it, fairly simple and easy. The little micro bevel setting is a cool touch. Initially I used the glass plate method but settled on a pair of water stones and a nagura stone.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2021 20:17
|
|
|
Harvey Baldman posted:I agree with everything you've said, but my boss is cheap and would likely do nothing to remedy the situation if it costs that much, so the DIY solution I'm pitching is meant to bridge the gaps and at least keep my coworkers from being exposed to too much. Look up a copy of the ACGIH Industrial Ventilation handbook. In a nut shell you can draw air 1.5 duct diameters from the entrance point of the duct. The sloping on the sides will help draw air in along that flow vector but if your parts have any height to them you will get zero dust collection action. I recently evaluated a downdraft setup for a welding operation and found it to be inadequate for parts that were not directly on the table. The work envelope was really small. Is what you're sanding harmful, or does it contain materials that OSHA will dislike? If it does then you need to call your State Air Ventilation OSHA dude and ask for a consult. In my state it's free, there's no penalty, and they can help point you in the right direction. If it's not on the bad list then things get funky. Indoor dust is 5 mg / m3, which is a shitload of indoor air contaminants. But you need to know what exactly it is, so dig out the SDS sheets for your material and see if it's on the list. If it is on the list then your employer needs to be in compliance.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2021 13:15
|
|
|
Uncle Enzo posted:I've had a chunk of rock maple bowling alley flooring for a while: I tried to make one into a workbench and it was a terrible experience attempting to disassemble it. Not only was it nailed, glued, and screwed, but once I relieved the pressure on the planks they split left and right. Eventually I had to burn the whole works. If I did it again I'd build a solid base and then make a router sled to flatten the top without disassembling anything. Woodwhisperer has a good video where he flattens a big surface with a router sled.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 10, 2021 19:53
|
|
|
Got a line on a $500 Powermatic 54A in rough shape. Looks like a pretty good deal and I'm equipped to refurb it. Am I on the right track?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2021 13:03
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend a good book on making kitchen cabinets? Particularly euro style.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2021 22:39
|
|
|
Granite Octopus posted:Project complete! That's really nice man, awesome work.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2021 13:29
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:One of the junior engineers was using a planer (alone in the shop over lunch) and... got his arm pulled into it. Mercifully, a coworker discovered him a few minutes later and drove him to the ER (v risky, paramedics exist for a reason). In High School woodshop the teacher told a story of coming back from lunch and finding a blood trail leading to the parking lot. He followed it back to an enormous Oliver jointer, upon opening the chip tray he found perfect slices of finger with a white ring of bone in the center. His best guess was someone came in and had their finger on the back of the piece of wood. He never did find out who it was. Dude was a really great teacher, years later it came out that he'd killed a man in a bar fight when he was like 19 years old. Went to prison, got out, reformed himself, and got a great education. A few folks in the community tried to get him fired when this came out but there was a huge uprising of support for how great of a guy he was.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2021 15:53
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:I think I'll be selling it, though, and taking the profits from that and the Smithy and getting maybe a Festool track saw and domino cutter. Oh? This is good to know! Is there other clones in the works?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2021 21:53
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 21:39 |
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:I didn't know that either. drat, and I've been looking for a used-in-good-condition one. Thanks, pimp. Quick Googling says 2024 expiration.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2021 01:57
|
|