Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

how do I get started with, like, real woodworking? I've done lots of rough stuff over the past ~year as we work on house projects - we built a shed from scratch and did a gut rebuild on my girlfriend's house, but her dad handled planning and most of the trickier bits. he's moved back home now that our house is livable, but we've still got a good set of tools (miter, table, jig, and circular saws, a decent workbench in the driveway, plus a smattering of other stuff) and projects that I want to do. at the top of my list right now are a few adirondack chairs and a bathroom medicine cabinet.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

crossposting from house stuff because i did some woodworking and also don't know what i'm doing:

Bloody posted:

okay so we've been working on our home renovation forever and this past weekend started working on the new access hole for the attic space. here's the hole:



current plan is to have a 5-sided box plug filled with insulation that you can just... shove... into the attic to get in. here's the box plug in its current state:



my original plan was to mount this frame to the ceiling around the hole. it's a 22x22" opening, the hole is 24x24", so it has a 1" lip all around. i was going to drive wood screws around the perimeter into the framing above. the plug would then rest on the frame and be flush with the rest of the ceiling


last night several things occurred to me:
* why did i screw the drywall to the plywood box base from the front instead of the back? fortunately i have enough drywall scrap to replace this piece and screw it from the back so there's no screw heads to deal with on the visible face
* maybe i should build a frame around the interior edge of the base of the hole? like 3/4" strips around the base of the hole and then don't have the drywall sheet go flush to the edges of the plug so that the plug is supported by the 3/4" strips that can be screwed into the framing perpendicular to the load force instead of the trim frame
* if i do that, then i could screw the trim frame into these strips from the back and hide their fastening while i'm at it too

alternatively, are there any decent hardware options that i could use to allow the plug to drop down out of the hole instead of having to push it up? it passes upwards cleanly but it's pretty heavy. im thinking like either some kinda long pieces of metal that can be rotated from the drywall face to hang it from the attic floor or maybe some kinda latching mechanism on the bottom? I've got 1/8" all around on the face sheet and more like 3/8" clearance from the box sides to the framing. this would create separate issues for the framing but i'm not opposed to coming up with a way for that to be removable with visible hardware - perhaps hinges on one edge and a latch on another

so i guess there's a few questions buried in here:
* can this trim frame support the plug safely or should I frame in the base of the hole opening for support and let the trim serve as trim
* is there any clever hardware bits that i can use so that i can have the plug drop out of the ceiling instead of having to push it up into the attic for access

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I'd just like hollow out a chunk of wood and stuff it full of magnets then stick knives to the wooden face. Like the thing you can buy

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Actually I have some leftover smallish chunks of teak butcher block maybe I'll do this

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I'm designing/building a medicine cabinet. The current plan is that the back of the cabinet is a sheet of plywood. The right side is a cabinet with a mirror door, and the left side is open shelves made from 1x6. I don't really have any good plans for joining the 1x6 shelves to the plywood back. My first thought was to pocket hole screw the shelves to the plywood, then my thought was to blind screw the plywood to the shelves, or maybe screw + glue, or maybe cut dados in the plywood to slot the shelves into either full-width or with a tab routed on, or... I don't know! What are good options for this? What are bad options? Can I/should I just screw + glue?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

i cut some dadoes with my miter saw today and they've got very minor but visible blade ridges in them. How can I clean them up before I glue in the mating board? A dry fit of the mating board looks kinda messy right now

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I want to frame some prints. I have wood I want to use, all the tools I need to turn it into frames, and generally the ability to do that. However, I have no idea how to frame things well. Like, the stackup of transparent thing and matboard (?) and art and backer board (?) and those little clips to hold it all in and stuff? I'm having a hell of a time learning about those bits. Everything I search for just gives me framing shops or like diy network garbage.

Idk if this is really woodworking but we don't seem to have a better fitting thread and I'm at least approaching it as a woodworker

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I started watching a guy on YouTube make awesome furniture and was like dang I want to try that. Also I needed a medicine cabinet and hated the ikea options so I made one. Now I need a desk and it's heading down the same route

Guess it depends what you mean by intricate tho

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Yeah I still don't have a workbench, mostly because I do all of my woodworking in the back yard. I'm up to two reinforced sheets of plywood on sawhorses for work surface! I'd kill for a workshop or garage or basement or really anything indoors but all I've got is a shed, a rain canopy, and a table saw that lives outside

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I think part of it is that there's a lot of ways to skin a cat. I'm planning on building a computer desk with some mortise and tenon joinery and a set of drawers. I expect to use my router table and table saw extensively, as well as my miter saw, a chisel or two, a drill, a tape measure, a speed square, maybe one of those nifty looking measuring marking thingys for mortise and tenon stuff, a block plane, a smattering of bar and pipe clamps, and a random orbit sander. This is by no means a comprehensive list of things I will probably touch at one point or another, nor is it a minimum viable set of tools - it's largely driven by what I happen to have, techniques I'm comfortable with (or want to learn - never done m&t before nor glued up a panel of boards). I have a general approach in mind that's largely drawn from / inspired by a few youtubers I like on the topic (woodworking for mere mortals for "how do I do x" and ishitani furniture for inspiration and "wow it would be cool to try, and gently caress up, doing y")

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I'm putting together a detailed cad design of what I want to build, and for every single part in it I ask myself - how will I turn a piece of stock into that shape with good enough tolerances to look and feel good? Do I have the tools and skills to do that? Do I want to expand my skills and tools to do that, or do I want to take a different approach in the design?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I have an old table saw. It was good enough in the 80s for this old house to glow about. It is now a shaky nightmare death trap that does not cut particularly straight, and this is after substantial rehabbing by my FIL, who's an expert Carpenter + luthier. If I didn't have to keep my table saw outside I'd replace it in a heartbeat

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Steve and Ishitani (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOFHUfZMF_o) are my whole list

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013


this is a good un

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I think the big question is what about carpentry you find rewarding. If it's finishing pieces, then you'll make use of every tool available to you. Same if you're most excited about planning the project out, and less so about the execution (I feel like these people are the ones who are most into using things like lasers and automated milling tools).

Hand tools appeal to the people who are in it for the process and don't really mind if it takes them weeks or months to finish a project.

it takes me months to finish a project as-is I can't imagine it taking even longer. I think I spent a full year just putting together a kind of lovely medicine cabinet...

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I'm doing my first mortise & through tenon and I've got the mortise all set but I'm looking for suggestions on how to cut the tenon. I don't have any handsaws apart from a coping saw, but I do have a router + table, a miter saw, a jigsaw, a nightmarish table saw, and a bunch of other random stuff. I have ideas on how to do it on the table saw, but the horrible machine is a Tool of Last Resort because I mean just look at it:

it has, hopefully, seen better days. It's also much less rusty than this picture, but it still just lives in my backyard. It rattles like hell, does not cut straight, and i'm sure it will some day try and kill me

also, same question, but for cutting some wedges for wedging the tenon

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I think at this point most of the un-straight-ness comes from the obnoxious levels of vibration it's achieving that I have done nothing to fix but my FIL apparently hosed around with a lot and this was as good as it got. Probably needs a new idk pulley or something

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

If you have a crosscut sled and dado stack for the table saw, that is a good ( and fairly safe) way to make tenons. Otherwise I would use the router. Mark the shoulders and tenon thickness and rout away the waste with a straight bit. Then clean up the shoulders with a chisel.

That is actually a pretty decent table saw. Maybe give it some love and don’t leave it in the yard and it will treat you better too?

unfortunately there's nowhere else for it to go - our shed is 100% full of everything else, and our house is 700 square feet :(

future house definitely has a proper workshop, but there's not even really a decent site to add one here

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

yeah that makes total sense and idk why I kind of forgot about it. what about wedges?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

It may go without saying but I'd probably oil the block after whatever you're doing, assuming it's finished similarly to a cutting board or butcher block

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Mr. Mambold posted:

This is the best look. That plastic thing with wire rails is horrible.

Or just put dividers in a top drawer, boom, done.



This is great until you have a jar that's too tall

Or you're our kitchen and the drawers are just a little too shallow for every jar

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Cpt_Obvious posted:

Ok, I promise I will post hot, hot planer pics when I get the chance.

However, I have a question about wood glue in low temperature: right now my shop is unheated and the temperature can drop below freezing overnight. Should I store my wood glue in doors? Will the temperature damage it? What point does glue stop setting properly?

yep, store your glue indoors

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Ear protection is as important as eye protection.

and, given that it's sanding, respiratory protection is probably even more important

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I assume they've got proper dust management in the shop, so yeah something like comfortable n100/p100 construction style respirator would probably be the way to go. Idk how it works in a furniture shop but in a machine shop / manufacturing environment I would expect PPE to be provided, albeit not necessarily the most comfortable variety. For example, we had like a bottomless supply of basic safety glasses and earplugs, but a lot of the full-time machinists wore their own safety glasses or headset style hearing protection or what have you

Fe oh you're not the furniture shop poster are you

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

A book I read on hybrid woodworking (Marc maybe?) was really into the jigsaw for breaking down rough stock, which I thought was interesting and definitely not something I'd ever considered. The case for it was largely safety driven - a jigsaw will handle weird poo poo in a board a lot more safely than a circular saw of any form

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

It was already mentioned but I'm gonna nth it: read the anarchists workbench it's great. I doubt anyone knows as much about workbenches as Chris at this point

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Are the bench dog (rockler house brand) or woodriver (woodcraft house brand) planes any good?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

our kitchen is dead level and lemme tell you moving appliances around or replacing them when the floor's flat is a joy

hopefully nothing settles at all and it stays this way it won't stay this way

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

what's wrong with just building something out of oak and lettin' it look like oak, oak is great

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Yeah I don't see why not. Supports 300 pounds, your miter saw probably weighs less

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

What are the advantages of a brace over an electric drill? Are there things braces can do that electric drills can't? I see Schwarz using both and I'm trying to understand why

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

A cutting board to gift to some friends who seem to have absolutely no cutting boards (???)
Maybe an anarchists workbench if my current shed bench (heavy top on a pair of lovely sawhorses) is untenable. Also generally get my shed further under control
Frame a print or two or ten
Some stuff from anarchists design book, saw benches at a minimum because I need some
Hopefully a bookcase and a desk but we'll see how the shedshop goes, might be tight for larger stuff

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

if it's half the cost of the slab in epoxy then perhaps

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

stupid sharpening questions: what grits do I really, no poo poo, definitely need for general-purpose chisels and planes? Do I really have to hone stuff to 15000 grit with honing compound on leather? Can I get by with just a coarse grit and a fine grit? Mirror finishes look lovely, but do they actually make a difference to cutting performance?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

After being properly chided for owning no nonpowered saws I went down the Paul sellers YouTube hole and the Chris schwarz book hole and now I have a low angle jack plane and some Japanese saws. The saws seem great but I'm having trouble with the plane. I suspect that part of the problem is my wood. I'm loving around on some Douglas fir that I have and I'm getting absolutely incredible tear out. I've sharpened the blade and done some fiddling about with adjustments but have been unable to get reliably good shavings without occasionally ripping out a huge chunk of wood. It's a little bit knotty and the grain is pretty loose but I figured it being relatively soft would give me a lot of leeway? What am I doing wrong?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

yeah I found a less knotty piece and I'm getting consistently good results now with a super tight mouth and shallow cut. Can't go too hog wild though or it'll just tear to ribbons. My shed is now littered with shavings though so I'm calling it a win and moving on to doing real stuff. I've now got stock half prepped for a wooden try square, which has been a good experience of learning just how tricky it is to cut anything square by hand. Definitely going to be making the interior 90 out of factory edges, my goodness

also red oak sawdust smells... weird

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

epalm posted:

If I'm chopping (miter saw, table saw, router) wood (SPF, hardwoods like maple/oak, plywood, no MDF though) in my driveway for an hour on the weekends, is dust something I should be worried about? I have ear and eye protection but I haven't put too much thought into lung protection.

Nah that's probably fine

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013


quote:

The two thigns we can promise you is that the packages will contain 5 machetes and that they'll be made in Colombia.
what else do you really need to know

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

ripping stock by hand is not fun my goodness. I had a 22" rip cut to do in some 2" maple and it took forever to get a shoddy board that needed another forever of planing to get the cut face cleaned up. I wonder if I can fit a tiny band saw in my shed because I don't wanna do that again

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

if I cut myself on a chisel and release an astonishing amount of blood with no pain, does that mean my chisels are sharp

unrelatedly, how do I fix shoddy cuts? I cut a mortise for a bridle joint with a backsaw and it came out narrow, out of square, and generally messy - I understand why these things happen, I haven't used handsaws a lot, I know how to get better at this, it will take practice - but I don't really know how to fix the resulting bad mortise. I tried cleaning it up with a chisel and a rasp and the tenon at least fits now but it looks like hell and has visible gaps and wonkiness. I don't expect to be able to cut perfect mortises or tenons right out of the gate, but I don't really know how to take a bad one and turn it into something usable.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply