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CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


My brother-in-law and I have come into possession of a large quantity of inexpensive live-edge rough cut ash (2" milled slabs that are up to about 36 inches wide and some as long as 8 feet), and I've recently moved into a new house with a fairly substantial workshop area in it. So we're building stuff. I have been around woodworking much of my life, as has he, but I'm looking at this as a learning experience. E.g. my first project is a roughly 40*36 inch bookshelf, assembled with dadoes and I've been hand cutting it (ripping this ash is a "one cut per day" kind of task for me).

Now I have two questions

1) Does anyone have experience doing surface planing with a router? I don't mind hand planing to finish or smooth, but I don't want to take 1/4 of an inch of hardwood off of a face with my hand plane, so I'm mechanizing that. What kind of bit should I get? Any tips on building a jig?

2) My partner has requested that I make her a park bench style bench to leave outdoors, at least through the summer. I'd like to do it without using the welded metal frames I see used on many. Will I need to use metal fasteners on it if I want it to last more than one year? Or are there ways of doing this with glue and joinery? Is there anything I can put on ash that will give it at least a few years survival as an outdoor furniture piece?

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CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Something to note about surfacing with a router jig: to get good surfacing results you really want your router's vertical movement to be very tightly constrained. Since your slabs are so wide, flexing of the crosspiece that supports the router is a legitimate concern. I recommend overbuilding them -- maybe a couple of 2x4s with notches cut in them to hold the router base. I don't think that 1x material is a good choice for this job.

Ok that's good advice. We have at least one project planned that will be using a full-width slab so even if we make a 1x crosspiece for any planks that we have already cut to width we should probably have a sturdier one handy for things like table tops.

Mr. Mambold posted:

1) You'll have to build a jig that will be big enough to receive the boards, and something within that to secure the board; then an adjustable moving guide above it, which your router will set into. So maybe envision a table for the router which slides freely on tubular slides, which in turn can run up and down the track. The wider the router bit, probably the better. You can get at least a 3/4" straight cutter, maybe wider.

2) There are waterproof glues, and there are dry fitted joints. I think the Japanese are the real masters of that, but I'm no expert on it. There are others in the thread who are better versed at this. As to finishes, ash is a pretty good outdoor wood, but maybe some type of spar or boat varnish would provide more peace of mind.

Beauty. Thanks. Stuff like "ash is a pretty good outdoor wood" is the type of info that I need to accumulate as I go.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I would disagree that ash is a pretty good outdoor wood. It’s probably better than pine or poplar, but it is definitely not rot resistant like White oak or mahogany. Some slats on a bench will maybe last a few years, but depending on the climate/conditions, I would expect anything in ground contact or that stays fairly wet to start rotting in a year or so. You can slow that down somewhat with a fuckton of spar varnish, but the rot-resistance that provides is only as good as the waterproofness of your coating.

IIRC you’re in the frozen north and not my swampy jungle, so you may get more life out of it than I would expect though.

Frozen north indeed. Perhaps I'll set the feet on patio blocks and take it inside or cover it during the winter. Little things like that can make a difference in my experience. Heck when I was a teenager I made some patio furniture out of poplar and screws and they lasted like 10 years (rip) so that tells you something about the climate. I guess my concern for this project is whether mortise-and-tenon joinery will be worse or weaker or shorter-lived than approaching it with screws washers and bolts.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Mr. Mambold posted:

I may have posted rashly saying ash is good outdoors, but in your situation, and with a few patio blocks, I'll take the spider sense corollary and stand by it.

As a sidenote, the variety known as swamp ash, which has the nice contrasting grain is what Fender stratocaster bodies are made from, and that thickness is excellent. In case you have a surplus of lumber.

2nd sidenote edit: ash is quite flexible and tough so I'd say it can handle mortise and tenon joinery better than a majority of other woods, but, obviously you have to use common sense.

perhaps we can revise to "Ash is not bad outdoors."

And the thickness I'm looking at is pretty much ideal for guitars. I don't think I can talk myself into becoming a luthier though. Right now I'm going to stick with "shelf and bench."

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Leperflesh posted:

that channel is a pro tier subscribe, by the way. (there's a few copycat channels). Turn on captions if you want words explaining what he's doing, but I like to leave them off.

There's one where he does mortise-and-tenon joints to hold up a hut, using nothing but stone tools, that is particularly relevant:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P73REgj-3UE

There are a lot of ??? in this video. He 100% has like 12 off camera people helping him with this. Not that it makes it not interesting to see how the parts come together.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Rutibex posted:

I don't think he does it all in one afternoon. One video represents months of weekend work.

Yeah but if that were the case the walls of the hut would be drying out as he worked. For the bottoms to be still plastic when the tops are being put into place you'd need a whole team of people slamming it into place together.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Jaded Burnout posted:

Not even flint?

Flint is actually a highly regional stone. There were ancient trade networks to move that poo poo around.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Jaded Burnout posted:

That's my white (cliffs of Dover) privilege showing.

I once saw a documentary on that beaker guy's grave which had a segment about how Dover (and I think Salisbury?) flint has been found ridiculous distances away on the continent. There were prehistoric flint mines there where they used sticks and antlers to dig black gold out of the chalk.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


ColdPie posted:

Hey remember just over two years ago when I posted this?


My friend who did the glass work had some personal stuff come up, so my project got back-burnered. But that's all been resolved now and for some weird reason she had a bunch of spare time this summer, so she was able to finish the glass for me! I got the doors hung this past weekend and spent today taking glamor shots.

Credit where it's due, it is strongly inspired by a Mike Pekovich piece: https://www.instagram.com/p/BVCQ7pil9zF/?taken-by=pekovichwoodworks

I wrote up a construction blog post. Short version is I'm super happy with how it turned out. It was my first time making and hanging doors and, other than a few mistakes with where I drilled the holes for the hinges, they turned out perfect. I think this is easily the nicest piece I've made.















holy poo poo

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Obsoletely Fabulous posted:

I'm about to do that to make my new router work with the free table I was given. The plate will not fit and I figure I have countersink bits so why not.

Also if I had known how easy non-end grain cutting boards were I would have just done this in the first place. Putting this whole thing together, minus glue dry time, took about as long as sanding did on the end grain board. This one is walnut, cherry, and maple.



cool cutting board! I think that this might be what I do with my hardwood scraps. It might be fun to make them over an extended period and play tetris cutting scraps to size and adding them to the mix.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Good job Rutibex.

I made the Rex Kreuger low Roman style laminated dimensional lumber workbench and I'm quite happy with it. I'm not short of space, but I was unhappy with the counters in my new garage for sawing especially, so I did it up and designed it to slide it out of the way into an otherwise nul space underneath the counter counters.

Just throwing that out there for anyone who is facing work bench problems.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Rutibex posted:

I watched that same Rex Kreuger video and I plan to make one of those eventually too :v:

I took some advice about my bench and cut these 90 degree wedges to put into the corners. Now it's a lot more rigid! There were other thing I could have done, but this seemed the laziest:


When you do it the biggest hassle is the leg holes and getting a big enough bit. Every other part is more or less a cakewalk.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


My buddy wants a sawmill. This sawmill is for sale. Is this a good sawmill?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Rapulum_Dei posted:

If we say yes will you promise to document it when your friend loses an arm to it?

Report yes, photograph no.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


mds2 posted:

I would be interested in that if the price is right.

What price would you call "right"? Just roughly.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Leperflesh posted:

Condition matters. Can you provide at least a model, age, does it come with blades/what kinda blades, etc? Is that a gas motor or a generator, what's it run on, what's the condition of it like? How bad is the rust? What state is it in, because it's probably worth more in california than tennessee? That small picture is really not much to go on.



Anyway hey guys so as of today I'm "an artist" because I signed up for this:
https://www.bedfordgallery.org/art-opportunities/call-for-entries
Have any of you ever submitted woodwork as art for a show? I have no idea yet what I'll make, I want to see what the wood looks like and how much I get (everything is very vague on that point).

It's tough. We're in Canada and it's on a listing from a rural garage sale that's a "as is, just want it gone" situation and we're trying to talk the seller into giving us more information before I drive out, and we had to twist her arm before even getting a picture. She probably has no idea what it is honestly. We don't mind doing some work on it but we want to figure out if it's even worth a poo poo to bother going for a closer look.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


We're going to see what she's asking.


In other news I just picked up this pair for $55 Canadian including shipping



The no4 seems totally new! The 110 needs some love but it'll be a good project

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Lady is asking 4000 for the sawmill. We're probably not getting a sawmill.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Blistex posted:

It's not a "bargain", but it's a fair price. Assuming that it's not damaged, you're getting the Toyota Tacoma of mills since they retain their value so well.

These Enercrafts went for ~$8000 when they were new, and once you see one in person you'll realize why they retain their value (they're simple as hell, do a good job, and last forever).

Ah cool yeah that's the info we were lacking. Thanks - my buddy told the lady to give him a call if the mill doesn't sell on Sunday.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I got a bunch of 1x6 cedar planks for cheap cheap cheap, including about a dozen that are 12 feet long. What are some good uses for cedar? It seems too soft to use for furniture.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Jhet posted:

Cedar chest for holding things to make them smell good? I have built a picnic table from cedar, but 1x6s would not make good furniture.

Chest is a good idea. I am thinking about making some nightstands too and using the cedar to make drawers in whole or in part.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Even going beyond that, instead of expecting them to fall apart, design them so that when they do fall apart you can just replace the relevant chunks

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Flea Bargain posted:

So I bought this Stanley plane new, and the sole had some deep scratches covering the plane so I glued some 180 grit sandpaper to a tile as YouTube suggested, and set to work. An hour later I have this:


Clearly the sole is not flat, and my understanding is that it's critical that it be flat near the mouth. Is this a case of suck it up and keep going or am I doing something wrong?

E:those scratches covered the entire sole, the shiny surfaces are where the sandpaper has worked.

oof try going to a coarser sandpaper for a while, and going back up to the 180 as you get closer to the goal?

Instead of gluing it, just clamp it.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


My ash smells like urine when I'm sawing it.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Super Waffle posted:

I just bought some ash to make some floating shelves :stonk:

It only smells that way when sawing it. I can put my face right into a big plank and take a sniff and it's just nice and woody.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I had an idea for building my own dowelling setup from scratch with a 3d printer and some chisels and extra plane irons but I haven't done it yet. Basically it would run through one setup with a chisel in it to rough out the dowel, and then through a second that would be essentially a large pencil sharpenter with the plane iron to finish it. But :effort:

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Jaded Burnout posted:

I've had a look around and I don't think there's such a thing as a dedicated rip saw in general retail here, they're all some form of hardened proprietary "universal cut" tooth profile or a more specialty shop which I'll bear in mind for the future.

So, I found a decent-looking 22" (max size) 7tpi (min teeth) handsaw that had at least one review saying it works well for ripping (60% were people cutting up oak sleepers for the garden) and I'll go pick that up, give it a go.

I've been ripping ash - mind you not resawing - with a 7tpi "aggressive" hand saw and it works. It's not fun, but it works.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


AFewBricksShy posted:

Now that my secret santa has opened their present, I can talk about the latest cutting boards I made.

I decided to re-do a pattern that I had done prior, it is probably my favorite.



I cut and glued everything up, and then realized I completely hosed up.


The pattern is an A/B pattern, I just figured I could reverse it and have it be a b/a pattern, but I forgot that it was directional.


So instead of making 2 cutting boards I ended up with enough to make 5.

One went to my sister, one went to Sehkmet, and have 2 partially finished (glued and rough sanded, but no finish sanding. I took the last one, tossed on all of the pieces that I had rejected because of flaws, and glued them all together for a massive (15x22 iirc) tray.

I picked up some iron handles from Etsy, I think it turned out good.


I had to do some serious sanding in order to get some of the flaws out so if I ever get access to a drum sander I'll probably run it through again and refinish. This is taken in a really good light, if you can catch it in a less flattering light you can see where I really had to go to town with the belt sander.

:kstare:

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


turns out that hardwood scraps can make some really nice trivets with just a bit of trimming and sanding.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I made a shooting board recently. I like it. I'm going to modify it to steal the speed square idea.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


So what's the sweet spot on price-quality ratios on the table saw? Would I be better off with a well maintained 1985 craftsman saw or dropping $400+ on a new name brand one? Or

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Blistex posted:

I've known people who have bought craftsman table saws (1950-60s) and have dumped enough money in aftermarket parts to buy a new Grizzly cabinet-style table saw. If you're going the vintage route, read up on the parts you need to make it safe and useful. (belts, riving knives, fence, inserts, guards, possibly a new motor, etc.) When you're done all you might have left from the original is a table top.

Well in this case it's my dad's, and he doesn't use it much so he has been talking about giving it to me, so it will be a free table saw if I go this route. It has all of the ports with tons of special blades, though I think he may have "lost" the guards over the years. It has been well maintained and largely lightly used, though it may have received worse care in the last 3 or 4 years.

What I'm not sure about is whether older table saws are any good in the first place.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


is S tier good or bad?


e. I've become hooked on this dude's sawmill videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BAvPsLPyfo

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

This guy doesn't have many videos and doesn't post much but he's a great turner and I've learned quite a bit from him:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcOZEDfuD2d9KsTPkcTBucA

My buddy Floyd has a good channel about finishing/refinishing/touch-up. He's a 3rd generation refinisher and really knows his stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcOZEDfuD2d9KsTPkcTBucA

It's instagram, but this guy is an incredible classical/rococo carver. Everything is in Russian or Ukrainian or something, but he does great work and sometimes posts very clever and simple jigs in his stories etc. https://www.instagram.com/iegorovleonid/

the first two are both floyd

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Elder Postsman posted:

I also went with sort of wall art shelves and made this several years ago:



We have way too many spices and I think I need to make more pegs and shelves for it.

How do you keep from knocking the shelves and spices off every 2 seconds

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Re: PPE I'm 100% on board with hearing protection. I bought headset over the ear style for my riding mower and once I started using it with the saws and everything else it has been amazing. For safety glasses my strategy has been get multiple cheap pairs so there's always a set within reach when I'm about to turn something on.

I've been using cloth masks lately when doing anything that kicks up dust - I'm only spending an hour or so in the shop at a time - but I'm noticing that they're better than nothing. I did a bunch of sanding one day and was digging snotty sawdust out of my nose for days afterwards. I started wearing the same kind of cloth mask I've been wearing to go grocery shopping and I no longer have that problem.

It's obviously not as good as the proper, professional ones noted above, but I can 100% vouch from unimpeachable anecdotal evidence that a 2-3 layer cloth mask still makes a difference, so if you don't have a respirator, slap on one of your roni masks for quick/hobbyist jobs. I still might get a better respirator-style one before long, especially since I have a bunch of fukken cedar.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Blistex posted:

B&D's tools have been on a steady decline for the past ~30 years. While they were never a premium brand, at one time they did make tough, reliable tools. In the last 15 years or so they've been using "brand less" tools (a generic tool that a factory will pump out for cheap and slap on any logo for another company too small/cheap to make their own stuff). While it's not 100% disposable garbage, longevity, durability and precision are sorely lacking in a lot of B&D's stuff. If you're a suburban family that replaces a deck board every few years or so, then B&D is a good choice for you. If you're posting here, you might want to spend a little more on something better.

My dad was saying the other day that they went south in the late 80s, and from his perspective it was basically overnight.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


The lady at the paint store tells me that drug store grade mineral oil is a decent food safe finish.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I'm trying out the mineral oil for some scrapwood trivets I'm giving away and it seems very good and affordable. They look beautiful.

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CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Elder Postsman posted:

I made this for a friend. Used gel medium to transfer the print to a piece of pine, and made the frame out of some red oak I wanted to use up. Miters aren't perfect, but rubbing glue and sawdust into the gaps helped hide that.





:vince:

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