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meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
So I'm gonna try my hand at some DIY furniture intended for the inside of the house vs the garage and I've got some questions. I'm gonna start with a desk based on a Enzo Mari design:


Do you just use nicer dimensional lumber for your wood pieces? Or are there nicer boards you can buy? I've never looked for anything but cheap stuff at the store so this question is as much from ignorance as inability to find stuff.

Are glued joints like dowels and biscuits to avoid visible fasteners in the finished good or is there a structural reason? I've always zipped stuff together with grk style screws but its been workbenches and shelves and stuff made of 2x4s and rough plywood where appearance was whatever.

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meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Thanks for the input, the design has no dimensions and this will be a combo office/light work desk so I'm gonna make it out of 2x materials, will hit up the local lumber yarn and ask about C&B/B&B/#1 when I do. Will probably get a nice slab from a friend in the slab business or do a solid core door for a top rather than a board top.

Also seems like a good place to practice some glued joints, dowels the recommended starting point generally?

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Tracksaws also let you do way more dumb poo poo like screw the track to a wall to cut a door opening really straight or cut things in place you could never move to a table saw.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
I've only used the festool track saw but it has a great depth stop so you can do slots and stuff

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

I don’t know that this is the most appropriate thread, but I’m sure someone in here has an answer for me.

I want to make some fiberglass nose and tail protectors for a longboard I’m going to build. The deck is already complete, I’m just painting and assembling it. For an idea of shape, look at drop through longboards. Basically, the nose and tail are close to a perfect circular curve with a radius of about 3” I’d guess. The board is 8-ply Canadian maple, about 5/8” thick. Nose protectors already exist, but not exactly like I have in mind. A common diy hack is 7-8” of heavy rubber tubing epoxied in or screwed in. I want something that looks more fitting of a nice natural finished board, like it was part of the original design and not racked on after purchase.

I'm thinking of wrapping the nose of the board up with thin shrink wrap, coating that in release agent, then building up thin strips of fiberglass and resin incrementally till it's about 5-ply. That's a similar method to how canoe/kayak paddle tips are reinforced, I just haven't seen it done on boards yet. Ideally, I'd slip the protector off once it sets and polish and trim everything up with a dremel tool and buffer. The whole piece would be removable, and slip into place with a couple small screws on the underside of the board.

Does this sound like something that would work? What would you tweak to make it work better?

I've not done much with fiberglass/composites but I think it'll work. My biggest suggestion would be to look for a fiberglass or composite supplier in your area, you might have one local. Call them and talk to them, I think your choice of cloth could make your project way easier or harder based on how easily it'll conform to your nose shape. I think ideally you'd want to do full size layers rather than strips to save work and get a nicer product. Same with your resin, etc.

Personally I really like using release wax instead of a coating or spray, but I've not done any wet layup and maybe wiping the resin through can displace the wax idk.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Not sure if this is the right spot to ask, but I'm trying to figure out the name for a pair of little bracket pieces that support a vertically removable panel that sits next to a fixed panel. One piece is kinda like an omega, and the other like an upside down U. The omega goes on the fixed side and the U on the removable, so the U nests into the gap on the omega when the panel is inserted.

I could have sworn I've seen these as little galvanized stamped sheet metal pieces, but now that I need some I can find them. I can draw a picture of what I'm thinking of that'll help.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
I am appreciating this coat rack discussion as I have also been planning one. I didn't think of the small shelf on top or the french cleat, those are both great ideas.

This started as a welding project more than a wood project so the mounting was an afterthought to the hooks. Not happy with the welding so far, but hoping by the time I finish the workshop set and get to the in-house set things will be looking cleaner, or I'll do some grinding to clean things up.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
I know a guy who owns a live-edge table small business and he buys logs from people and then mills and drys them himself to then sell. Not quite what you were talking about doing but might be an in-between option.

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meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017

:eyepop:

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