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Router bit question: I received a new 1/2" tongue & groove set. The nut on the tongue bit loosened as I began a cut and when I tightened it the top section rotated a smidge and now the blades do not align top to bottom. After which there was a bit of vibration when I spun the router back up. Do the blade sections have to align with each other or should I look elsewhere for the source of the vibration?
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Feb 18, 2018 01:31
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ColdPie posted:That doesn't ring a bell, but it's been a while since I read it. I think you're right, though. Every time he writes about finishing he comes off as really annoyed about the finishing industry today, with how they mis-label every product and don't tell you what it's made of. A lot of his writing is about how to identify what the gently caress is even in the can you're holding. I don't recall him advocating for shellac flake or anything like that, though. Maybe I've just missed it. "Tung Oil Finish"
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Feb 25, 2018 17:53
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Lesson learned: Use wood the moment you purchase it. Or buy a jointer  TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any advice for cutting inside curves like these? Maybe make a template out of MDX and then use a router head with a flush guide on the end? To do huge timber frame arches, we band sawed just outside of the shallow CNC groves and sanded the hell out of it to get them perfect. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Sep 5, 2018 |
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Sep 5, 2018 15:55
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It's funny that we had clients who were willing to pay for beetle-carved beams because they thought they looked neat.
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Sep 6, 2018 01:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:We got contacted a few years ago to stain/lime/wax a buuuunch of old oak barn beams (that someone else had purchased) that were all powder post beetle eaten to go in a squilllion dollar house. We did our job off site at the contractor’s warehouse and it all looked great and they installed all the beams and everyone couldn’t have been happier. About a week later the owner and architect were doing a walkthrough and kept seeing all these little piles of wood dust under all their beautiful old wormy beams. Turns out nobody had fumigated or heat treated them and the architect was very surprised to learn that bug-eaten beams can in fact still be full of active bugs. They had to take them all back down, treat them, and then reinstall them. Well in the case of bark beetles, that was not a concern. Once the trees are dead the beetles have already vacated to live trees. Feenix posted:My fellow woods-people. If I wanted to make like, a steak board, and instead of routing a groove around the edges, actually wanted to, like, bowl it out, do I just do that with a ton of routing back and forth? Wish I could recall what we called the router we had that we'd clamp onto pieces and it would plunge to a set depth and we'd move it around like an etch-a-sketch. Mainly used it for mortices. Man but that thing was a godsend. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 15:36
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JEEVES420 posted:um, a plunge router? Or is this a No it was a contraption that actually clamped to the wood and had movement done with wheels along rails, like a CNC mill but completely manual. Yes, it had a router/endmill but I am speaking about the rail and movement system. You literally moved the router with controls like an etch-a-sketch.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:44
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Feenix posted:Board is a rectangle. Square sides. Should I google “hand router fence”? I can do that. They have edge follower/guides, but dunno how well that would work with having to re-position when you got to the corners. Perhaps get a bit with a bearing wheel and make a jig to plunge and follow?
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Sep 6, 2018 22:55
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Thumposaurus posted:Pin router? Was this: https://www.ebay.com/i/283101158788...ad6f427fffeba55 One of my favorite tools. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 15:34
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Can one person ever have enough clamps? I had a meltdown last night. When I purchased 2x12s last year I was assured that the wood was well dried/cured. Cut them up, did tongue and groove joints, routed channels and then got distracted and only tinkered with it over the following months sparingly. Last night I attempted to actually put the pieces together (horizontal beehive). The ammount the wood warped, twisted, expanded and contract had me tossing tools around like thor. Had I built an actual home with this wood it would likely have exploded into pieces by now. /pissed
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Sep 8, 2018 17:57
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Finally got around to ordering a dado blade set. While waiting I gave the table saw a good going over. Oddly enough the fence is aligned with the blade, but the grooves for the push guide are askew. Yanked off the wonky riving knife as well. In any event I took the plunge and a piece of .5” MDF and made a new zero clearance inset. Came out beutifully and I am left wondering why I waited so long to make one. Confident to make several others for the various dado sizes when it arrives.
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Sep 11, 2018 03:34
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Has anyone priced uhmw plastic online? Seems the ones I am finding are either expensive on their own or shipping is ridiculously priced. Looking to source a board of it to attach to my TS fence.
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Sep 12, 2018 15:02
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cakesmith handyman posted:How long is it, lots of cheap cutting boards are uhmw now. Flattening it is left as an exercise for the reader. About 36”
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Sep 12, 2018 22:32
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cakesmith handyman posted:Probably not a cutting board then To be honest I am about to throw my fence through a wall. Trying to make small adjustments is an exercise in insanity. (Steel City Table Saw)
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Sep 13, 2018 04:31
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cakesmith handyman posted:Probably not a cutting board then Thinking more about saving the money for a decent replacement fence. This Steel City one is quite horrible.
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Sep 13, 2018 22:00
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Pissed Ape Sexist posted:Haha, that all rules, thanks for elaborating. My balls have crawled so far up near my sternum reading this page.
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Sep 14, 2018 23:24
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I will never truly love my TS or my planer until I someday have a jointer and room to put it.
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Sep 14, 2018 23:35
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I have 2 solid 3.5x12 slabs of douglas fir that a table saw and router table would die from attempting. I COULD in theory do an edge on the saw, but nothing short of a large jointer is gonna handle the 12" surface. Now that I finally have a dado set I am prepared to do a massive tongue/groove to join them together, but for the whole out of square part. (And I would want that 12" side perfectly flat before messing with the edge.) 
Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Sep 15, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 02:46
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Mr. Mambold posted:What are you trying to do with this? Edge glue them? Make a bench? The latter. Planning to connect the edges via a massive tongue/groove. Finished depth around 24" (minus what needs to be jointed/planed/T&Ged) I've had them a few years and they are as dry as they are going to get, so I am not overly concerned about any warping beyond what they are currently. Otherwise I would use stacked 2x4s.
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Sep 15, 2018 17:51
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go for a stroll posted:"these boards are just too big for a #7 plane", i think to myself never Planing is not an issue if you are content with warped wood that is equal thickness. 
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Sep 15, 2018 21:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you have a bench top planer you can just flatten the two wide sides and rip off the unsquare edges with a table saw. Stuff that thick is probably fairly straight and shouldn’t really need face joining. Plane the convex side flat, flip it over and do the concave side. The large surface is noticeably not-flat. Mr. Mambold posted:You really don't need to T&G them, imo. If they're that out of synch, the tongue is liable to split off anyway as you're trying to make the joint close. I'd use a 2 lb deadblow hammer & judicious clampery. If not a T&G then it will be pegged at the very least. Either way I want to spend the little extra to have it all squared up prior to getting to that step. Will likely have a couple of these squared up nicely for comically large legs for the bench:  Bonus photo of our local air quality:  (That's a forest fire in case the subject matter wasn't clear. Pun intended) Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Sep 15, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 21:55
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Sylink posted:I got rid of my hybrid/cabinet table saw because it was huge and I really didn't need something that big. I think you may have been better off with the old table saw. What HP was it? Personally would rather have too much tool than suffer with something underpowered. Especially if doing dadoes. Not to mention you will have more clean up to do with a contractor saw spewing dust everywhere, rather than a table you can hook to a shop vac.
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Sep 16, 2018 16:09
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My eye is irresistibly drawn to that polaroid.
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Sep 17, 2018 05:47
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Got in an argument with a friend last night. He insisted a planer could do the same thing as a jointer.
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Sep 20, 2018 15:53
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:It mostly can if you're willing to work with rough edges and your boards are relatively straight. Also how do you make the second side of a board parallel to the first with a jointer His argument was that you could attach some sort of a frame to a piece so that it would be kept flush and non-twisting through a planer. I could not get him to understand that the best practice would be to completely flatten the large surface and then 1 edge with the jointer and then feed through the planer. He saw no reasoning to using the jointer for anything but the edge. In fact he insisted the board did not have to be flat to get a proper 90 degree on the edge on the jointer. As deeply imprinted my GD&T training and actual use of these machines in timber framing are, I could not convince him. edit: This is the friend who said I could use his jointer for the planks I posted about earlier. His jointer turned out to be about 4" max cut, and he insisted that was all I needed. THANKFULLY I did not haul the planks with me before checking out the machine. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Sep 20, 2018 |
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Sep 20, 2018 16:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me, I have a Stanley no 5 that's putting a slight cant on boards when I try to use it as a jointer plane. How do I make sure the blade is aligned with the base of the plane? There must be some set of diagnostics/calibrations I can do to make sure the plane's set up properly. Is the Stanley no 5 a planer or a jointer?
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Sep 20, 2018 17:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It's a hand plane, of a size that it can serve both jobs reasonably adequately. That is, you can use it to flatten/thin boards, and to flatten the edges of boards. When I was working with a monster mill (we referred to it as "the moulder", but it was a jointer/planer/shaper all in one. Only one of the uses was to make moulding) I found that most errors were due to misalignment of the "take-up" surfaces. Was quite a bitch to get them precise in such a huge beast.
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Sep 20, 2018 18:02
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Your friend is correct that you can flatten and straighten a board by attaching it to a somewhat cumbersome and slightly dangerous sled and running it through a planer. Even huge industrial jointers don’t come much bigger than 16-20”, but planers go much wider than that. You do need a flat face to get a square face-once you have a flat face you can get a square straight edge without a jointer on the table saw with another cumbersome sled. So yeah, you can do all that without a jointer, but they sure do make it easier, and do a lot more besides. Yeah, my point to him was basically "right tool for the job".
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Sep 20, 2018 20:00
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Stultus Maximus posted:Spend more and get a DeWalt sliding compound. I limited my budget and got a compound and for five years I've really missed the extra capacity. Agree with the slide. I really regret getting a stationary.
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Sep 23, 2018 16:22
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Apollodorus posted:Okay so there's about a $170 price difference between the stationary and sliding versions. What specific benefit does the sliding feature have? Can you give me an example? Since I am limited to 6" or so cuts on my stationary, when stock is larger I have to either make 2 cuts and hope they line up perfectly, or I have to take a potentially 10-12'board and cross cut it on my table saw. Which is a horrible option due to space constraints (usually a TS is oriented for ripping those lengths as opposed to cross cutting those lengths). Yeah I would gladly go back in time and pay the <$200 difference. Harry Potter on Ice posted:To go from no miter saw to a miter saw is such a massive improvement in a shop I highly doubt they need the sliding capability, otherwise they would have been on it already. I have learned in my 50+ years that buy-once-cry-once is a very good thing to live by. Despite my short sightedness at times. To wit: non-slide miter saw. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Sep 23, 2018 |
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Sep 23, 2018 20:17
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E;F, DP
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Sep 23, 2018 20:19
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Hypnolobster posted:If you need one router, you actually need a minimum of 3. Nearly universal truth in power tool woodworking. Dedicated table, motor with a plunge and fixed base and a 1/4" trim. Bonus points for the trim having a plunge base too. I LOVE my 1/4" trim router. Even more than my full size.
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Sep 24, 2018 03:10
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Ok, these are all good and true (especially the router from personal experience) but the person saying their wife said they could spend $2-300 on a new power tool and not knowing they wanted a miter saw probably doesn't need the sliding capacity. Someday? Maybe. For now and a while, doubt it Then buying a miter saw is not the best choice. Again, buy once cry once.
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Sep 24, 2018 03:12
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Slugworth posted:On the rare occasion he'll need to make accurate 6"+ cuts, he can use a speed square and a buzzsaw. Honestly, most of your bigger cuts will be lumber/rough carpentry, where the "flip it over and cut it again" trick is perfectly fine anyway. I've never once regretted not going with a slider. Agree to disagree. If I had a set amount of cash to outlay, I personally would opt for a more complete and long term tool than one that is virtually crippled that may be OK for the short term. I get that you specifically have never regretted not having a slide, but many have. Myself included. Besides, just as the argument could be made that you could use tricks to get past limitations, you could say the same about getting an upper end circular saw with guides. In fact that is probably what I would advise the above guy focus on. Circular Saw, then Table Saw then Sliding Miter Saw.
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Sep 24, 2018 05:18
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Why not use an endmill router bit in a router table and cut it from underneath while moving the wood between 2 stops and a fence?
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Sep 26, 2018 22:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What's your recommendation for tenon length? My understanding was that "as long as possible" is best for strength, but I honestly have no idea how much of a difference, say, a 1" tenon makes vs. a .5" tenon. I would suspect anything beyond 2x of it's width would have diminishing returns.If it breaks off anywhere it certainly isn't going to be deep inside the mortise.
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Sep 30, 2018 22:10
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Here's a task: Let's say you have a piece of maple burl previously cut into a disk shape, 15" wide and 5" thick. You want to cut it in half, creating 2 disks. Outside of buying a giant bandsaw and hoping you can grab hold of one "end" and not have it go shooting off until it hits something that stops it, how would you accomplish it? I am currently at the stage where I have a 24" hand saw and SOMEWHAT of a guide jig.
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Dec 15, 2018 16:12
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Jhet posted:Using a handsaw to cut down large pieces of maple into the sizes I need or are more manageable for other tools is what I've done in the last few months. I don't have a bandsaw or a chainsaw, but aside from using a chainsaw with a guide, I couldn't think of a better way to do it. I have a bunch more to do that isn't ready for using, but I think I'll just buy a nicer hand saw or go ask to use my neighbors bandsaw sometime. Yup, that was the reason for the hand saw purchase. Part of the issue is getting the cut started properly. It is a really decent (ratings-wise) saw but still flexible enough to worry me about making a non-bowed cut and the burl is hella dense. When I purchased the saw I figured 24" blade on a 15" piece would be plenty, but that only really allows so much back and forth.
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Dec 15, 2018 16:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Make yourself one of these: The router sled thing is something I looked into and while a neat idea I would avoid it if I can, at least for this piece. If I can get it flat enough on the cut surface to use the sander on then I will be happy (as will the wife, who this is for to give as gifts)
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Dec 15, 2018 17:14
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ColdPie posted:Holy hell I would not want to do that with a handsaw. I haven't used one, but I agree that a frame saw looks like the right tool. You could also head to a lumber yard or woodworking/cabinet shop and ask if they would do it somehow for some money. Trust me, that was the first thing I did. The issue is not finding a saw big enough, but rather how to hold the piece while the giant saw is doing it's thing. The offending disk: 
Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Dec 15, 2018 |
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Dec 15, 2018 17:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Oh it is really an actual round disk, not a roughly disk shaped slice of tree that has flat parts on it. The wide parts are obvious chainsaw cuts, but I haven't a clue how they managed the nearly perfect round diameter. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you’d just started sawing with your hand saw 2 hours ago, you might be done by now? Only overthinking it as it set us back $50. Plus laziness. I began to slowly saw it a short while ago and then I got around to other sparklie attention getting stuff (secret santa gifts and such) Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Dec 15, 2018 |
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Dec 15, 2018 20:06
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