|
Graniteman posted:It's a JP0610 jointer, which sells new for $600 or so. It's not a bench top model, but the bed is still only like 40 inches long. So the guy is selling it for about half of the new price, which seems typical for craigslist tools around here. Not an amazing deal, but I'd been eyeing that jointer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzmSjlXJ2fg
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2020 01:55
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 01:19 |
|
|
Super Waffle posted:So I've redesigned my idea for some art-deco style built-in book shelves. I'd appreciate any thoughts. Something about it just feels off to me and I can't figure out what. Unless there's something specific going on the top shelves, making those shelves at different heights would probably help since the other shelves are also not a fixed distance apart. Also how thick are the shelves in this? You can beef them up visually with a trim piece in the front, which I think make shelves look nicer and more substantial than just a typical 1x material (with the side benefit that you can use plywood and this acts as your edgeband).
|
|
#
¿
May 6, 2020 20:02
|
|
|
Elem7 posted:Since we're on the subject, any reason I should rethink buying a Laguna 14/BX bandsaw in 240v? Is there a better option I've overlooked in that $1500 range? Keeping in mind the 12x14 capacity Is the 3/4 blade width going to be a problem resawing lumber?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2020 00:51
|
|
|
I've had a nice elm slab that has been sitting on hairpin legs for a few years now, and thought it deserved something a little nicer, so I made a Nakashima style base out of 8/4 cherry. It came out pretty good, and I was able to add a tiny hidden 1" tall drawer just under the top for remote controls and coasters. This was a pretty fun build--surprisingly not too difficult given that almost nothing is 90 degrees, but needed to plan the order of cuts carefully to avoid cutting something was going to be used as a reference surface later. 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2020 17:39
|
|
|
Rutibex posted:I am seconding the request for cheap table saw advice. I really need to stop trawling Amazon Warehouse deals, but I just couldn't say no to this price: Fence related: Check the fence for flatness as well. It's really nice to know just how far out a cheap fence will skew if you lock it down from different angles, like does it straighten itself up when you lock it down, or is it an accidental taper jig? It's also nice to know just how much force it takes to knock it out of alignment if you run your board into it a little too hard which is really helpful to know when you're batch cutting and wondering why half the boards are a good 1/16" fatter than the rest
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2020 01:31
|
|
|
A 6' steel angle can still flex a bit in the middle, seconding that anyone with a table saw and a dado can do this in no time and it's not much trouble for them to do. If you enlarge the holes for the screws going into the knob a little, even if you are a bit out of square, you can shift the whole thing a little bit within the t-track. If using an edge guide on each side of the table, please first check that the table is same width across the whole thing as a sanity check. Another option that skips the t-track entirely would be to make a lip on one edge of the boat hanger (like with an angle bracket) that goes over one side of the worktable, and the knob goes in horizontally into a lip on the other side of the table, so it self-squares against the table when you tighten that side down, instead of coming into t-tracks down through the top. Since this isn't locked into place with t-tracks, if you move it a lot it could go way out of square if you aren't careful.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2020 17:44
|
|
|
Rutibex posted:It will not lock into any angle very tight at all, especially 90 degrees.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2020 19:33
|
|
|
Wallet posted:
If you can get cheap cherry, why not just cherry and no stain? It has a nice mid-range color that won't seem too out of place against either light or dark nightstands
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2020 23:07
|
|
|
My neighbor gave me a book on Mission style furniture and I found a great deal on some Craigslist walnut so I made a Mission inspired desk with curved rails and stretchers. I got the idea for the spindles overlapping the rails from a similar mission style Kobeomsuk desk and it really looks sharp. The two back rails are pretty wide because they have hidden bed rail hardware, set just snug enough that they need a light tap with a mallet to seat fully and keeps it from racking, but still moveable in 5 pieces. One thing I did differently than usual was to do a light chamfer on all the corners of the legs instead of a slight roundover and it looks really good--mostly I wanted to play with my new spokeshave but I think I'll keep doing that on a lot of things in the future, it catches the light really nice compared to a softer roundover, the corner looks crisp but feels smooth.   HolHorsejob posted:On the topic of jigsaws and the like, how useful is a jigsaw? What can it realistically do? Can you cut curved profiles in 4/4 HW or 3/4 BB?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 13, 2020 19:58
|
|
|
bobua posted:Wife's side table request. poplar, bb, black walnut. This looks fantastic, I love the detail on the leg attachments
|
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2020 04:02
|
|
|
For a first workbench, I think something put together fast and cheap with construction screws and straight/flat 2x4/2x6's with a solid core door or a couple layers of ply/mdf works well enough until you have a good idea of what you want down the road (if you even want to upgrade from that). Building a bench when you don't have a bench is not very fun, and you don't want to spend a lot of time and material to make something only to find out it doesn't work out so well in your space (like what if you make the bench 8 feet long and can only realistically fit 6' in your space?). Put a vise on it. That English joiner's bench looks pretty good too and doesn't seem too hard to make as a first bench, as long as you can get the boards flat
|
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2020 15:44
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:As a mostly power tool user who dabbles in hand tools, I opted for Rob Cosman's basic bench. If you have a table saw and a hatchback you can make this bench. The top is 4 layers of 3/4 mdf and the legs are 18mm baltic birch laminated. I kitted mine out with matchfit dovetail clamp tracks. Tons of great work holding options for planing, routing, and sanding. What's the two different belt sanders on the jewelry box for? There's no planer listed so please tell me it's for shaping the lid or something "Now we're going to dimension this into a half inch board with just a belt sander"
|
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2020 22:57
|
|
|
z0331 posted:I’m getting to the point when I need to worry about finish. I’m making a cherry hall table. Previous projects I’ve just used BLO, but I read that can make blotching stand out more on cherry.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 25, 2020 01:06
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:I made a picture frame sled to enter into the wild world of framing photos and art. Based it on design ideas from Make Something and Michael Alm (and probably others). Added my own twist with the locking stop block. A few things to check: the kerf on the sled looks a lot wider than your blade, when was the last time you cleaned/sharpened the blade, is it really a high tooth fine crosscut blade (the one in your photos doesn't look like it), can you add a block right where the two rulers meet to provide a vertical zero clearance as well? A bit of adhesive sandpaper in front of the rulers where the frame sits really helps lock it in place.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2021 03:06
|
|
|
epalm posted:I'm looking to pick up some measurement tools like a digital inclinometer, a decent combination square, etc, but there's an endless sea of options, and I'm wondering if it's one of those "they're all actually manufactured by the same 2 companies" situations. For combination squares, you can get PEC blemishes from https://www.harryepstein.com/. They're no Starrett, but they are cheap and square.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2021 14:54
|
|
|
Rufio posted:My dad wants me to make him a shower stool. Most of the ones I've seen are made of teak, but I'm wondering if I could use something cheaper. Around here (Louisiana) people use cypress for lots of our outdoor furniture. Could that be acceptable or should I just go with teak?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2021 22:17
|
|
|
revtoiletduck posted:Do you guys have experience with Veritas t-track? I bought some before I realized that they don't have pre-drilled screw holes. Can I just epoxy them in place, or would I need to drill and use screws?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2021 02:17
|
|
|
I got a ludicrously good deal on a Sawstop PCS a few weeks ago and built a router table extension this weekend. Sold the old standalone router table and my 1/2 of a 2 car garage feels so much roomier now! There is about 11" to the garage door, so as long as I don't get too fat this layout should work. Sawstop's business model annoyed me up until about 3 weeks ago   Rufio posted:
Discomancer fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 26, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2021 02:47
|
|
|
I could use some help on figuring out a project, and hopefully there is some specialty hinge or hardware that I'm missing that will solve this: my parents have asked for a dropleaf table for their Old Person Retirement RV, and they want some very specific things: this is a booth setup, it has to be a walnut top and leg, a "rule joint" specifically at the drop leaf, and little to no visible hardware/fasteners. This seems to be more of an engineering problem than a woodworking problem. They originally asked for a folding leg that can be folded out/locked in place, which I'm having some trouble getting the dimensions to work correctly without it running into something and not being able to fold back up. I'm also trying to build this with the consideration that they may not be flexible enough in a few years to bend over and fiddle with latches easily, so I want it simple. The table itself will be 21"x39" in total, with a fixed 14" section and a folding 25" section. There's an 11" wide, 5" tall wheel well with a small 11" cabinet above it. Here's the best I can come up with: a short stub coming from the bottom of the table, with a pin hinge piece, and a second removeable pin to keep the leg from getting kicked out of place. I don't think this is a great solution, but can't think of anything else that fits this space and these dimensions. Is there another hardware solution that I'm missing here that would solve this? The other option is to make the leg completely removable and attach it when unfolding the table, and my thought there was to make a cutout (essentially an open mortise at the end of the table) with a mating piece on the leg, and then somehow latching that in place. The "screw in" type leg attachments won't work in this application because the drop leaf hinge joint prevents the table from being lifted up to attach. Is there some kind of other hardware would be used for that and still prevent the leg from being able to get accidentally kicked outward by someone getting up. Any ideas on how to get this setup to work in this space? Here's a drawing of the area: 
Discomancer fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Jan 27, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2021 02:01
|
|
|
epswing posted:I’m a bit shocked at the price difference between saw blades. A 10” 80T freud industrial is $133, a diablo is $69. A 10” 180T irwin is $26 and a 60T craftsman is $35 and comes with an additional 24T blade.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2021 04:53
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Parallel clamp chat, my local home depot regularly puts the Bessey parallel clamps on sale. The 24" have been down to $32 and the 50" have been $42, which isn't too far off pipe clamp prices. They're so much nicer. I have a veneer question: I have a small 4"x4" piece of veneer I want to put on a box lid, and have never done this before. Should I just glue it to a piece of hardwood, match the grain direction, and use regular titebond? The edges are going to be covered by a trim piece, and it's small enough that I don't have any problem with the middle crowning up if that is a consideration.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2021 00:57
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:They should last for a year or two, but use pressure-treated lumber if you really want it to not rot. If you use pressure treated wood, make sure to use screws or nails that are suitable for it or they'll corrode as well, some exterior construction screws like Spax should be fine. You can also paint with some cheapo exterior/deck paint (Home Depot will probably have clearance cans that someone asked for and never picked up for cheap) to protect it a bit more.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2021 01:24
|
|
|
epswing posted:I have to glue up some panels, but first I have to make some cauls. How can I make 16” cauls with a 1/16” taper from the middle to the ends? The examples I’ve found use a hand plane applied from the middle to the ends, then 1/4 to the ends, 1/8 to the ends, etc. I’m using spf, if that matters. 2) take 2 cauls, add a 1/8" shim at each end (twice your 1/16" target) between them, clamp them together, drill and countersink a screw in the middle so they bow out like )( and run them over the jointer/router table set as jointer, or tablesaw. Obviously double check to make sure the screw is in the correct spot to avoid the blades if doing this, and also make sure the two pieces are similarly stiff and one isn't doing all the flexing. The end of the boards will be shorter at the ends than the middle. 3) if this is just a one-off, you can use a flat board with those playing cards and stick the cards under the glue lines as shims to make it bow as you clamp (like you'd put 4 cards in the middle, 2 at the end, and the net effect is the board clamps down into the cards). Since the cards are usually coated with something, glue doesn't stick to them too badly
|
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2021 15:22
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2021 16:10
|
|
|
That Works posted:Oh awesome I am glad that someone is doing this with a setup similar to my own. A second pass on the jointer will hit the front of the rabbeting ledge - this video explains the process a bit better and shows what happens, it sounds counterintuitive but makes sense when you see it. I guess some jointers you can just remove the rabbeting ledge so it's a non issue? I have a Jet and the ledge is fixed to the infeed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzmSjlXJ2fg
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2021 17:49
|
|
|
I did desk mortises today and used my favorite router jig which may help someone: it's a massive block of scrap (in this case, leftover Ikea countertop) with a bunch of dovetail grooves for microijg clamps in either direction, 2 t-tracks and a big groove for a router edge guide with a block screwed onto it and some stop blocks. It's useful for all kinds of things, can hold boards on edge, and is really useful as a mortising jig since you just need to set it up once, do all your mortises, then flip the stop block on the face of the jig where the piece registers against to do the other side (to keep the reference sides all facing the same direction). You can also put stops on the top t-track instead to get a larger mortise. The last picture with just a scribbled mortise is to tell me which side is the reference side, and which side of the leg to mortise, with the jig already set up, the edge guide at the desired distance, and the stop block in place to keep the mortises vertically consistent.    
|
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2021 03:16
|
|
|
revtoiletduck posted:I'm looking to put some 1/4" wide mortises in some relatively small pieces of walnut (10" x 1 1/2" x 3/4").  
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2021 16:35
|
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:Which reminds me, if you're talking about burning money on Amazon myself I'm becoming precariously close to buying a set of those dovetail clamps and bit. Those work as well as they would appear? revtoiletduck posted:I'd be interested to hear how you feel about that Bosch dust collector, too. Dust collection is the bane of my existence and is single-handedly pushing me towards using hand tools whenever possible. My shop assistant was skeptical of today's prefinish/glueup process, and tried to snag a new chewtoy off the bench, which was denied: 
Discomancer fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Dec 31, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2021 20:19
|
|
|
BonHair posted:Hi. I'm a new house owner with a stupid idea that involves wood. I think this is the thread for wood, right? Basically, I have a bush/tree deal that I want to cut down, leaving the stump as a table stand. Until recently, I didn't know what to put on top, but the other day, i found someone had cut down a birch tree, which allowed me to scavenge a disc of the trunk:
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2022 20:14
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:If I wanted to accentuate the late growth rings is there a way to jump back and forth in grits to only sand the light stuff? Controlled oversanding? 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2022 03:17
|
|
|
Apollodorus posted:Well the guy still has it. It’s in pretty good shape aside from the stains on the cover and the nicked knife. 8 inch vs 6 inch - You can get by just fine with a 6" but if you have the space and the money then get the 8". What size boards do you normally get from the lumberyard? Mine seems to start at 6.5" and go wider from there, so almost everything needed additional milling when I had the 6" and I would prefer not to go back to a 6". It wouldn't be the end of the world, but if you're ready to drop that much money, you might be happier holding out for the larger machine. Delivery on that machine is nothing - you can take the fence off, and remove the jointer bed from the frame (there are 3 bolts holding it on which you can access from the bottom and the dust chute) and haul the whole thing in a sedan easily.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2022 18:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 01:19 |
|
|
Seems likely, the pictures look like it's in a regular garage or something--that looks like a much better deal than the Jet jointer. You can probably disassemble it from the base to move it easier. I'd bring a friend, jointers are hard to move alone. Don't pick it up by the wings!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2022 20:37
|
|