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KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

So I want to build a table, and we like the look of this Ana White farmhouse table. Doesn't look too bad, but I'm pretty sure when built like that, it'll warp like hell after a few seasons. Any ideas or suggestions for building a table?

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KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Stultus Maximus posted:

Indoor or outdoor?

Indoor, just for our dining room.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

JEEVES420 posted:

Pocket holes will not be strong enough for a 6" breadboard like they have. That style of table usually uses tongue and groove so that the breadboard ends are keeping the length boards square, no room for them to twist.



edit: to further explain, while the pocket holes and screws will work for an edge glue up since the glue is doing all he work and the screws are just "clamping" the boards together for glue up. With end grain to edge grain the glue will not be strong enough and the screws do next to nothing for structural support. With a tongue and groove you are now gluing face to face inside the pocket making it a much stronger long lasting joint.

So what type of tools would I need for something like this? Currently I have a drill, hand saw, circular saw, sander, and a few other assorted odds and ends. Basically enough to do DIY junk around my house, but nothing specialized/

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

ColdPie posted:

It's challenging to cut, and more challenging to cut well. I did breadboard ends on my dining table last year. I used a full size handsaw to cut the tenon. I used a long, straight piece of wood to guide the saw, and tape on the sawplate as a depth indicator. Then used a chisel to chip off the bulk of the waste, and cleaned it up with a rabbet block plane. Finally I used a coping saw to remove the waste between the deep tenons where the dowels go. For the mortise in the breadboard end, I used a plow plane to cut the bulk of the mortise and a mortising chisel to cut the mortises for the deep tenons.

I'm happy with how mine came out, but it's definitely one of the most challenging woodworking things I've done.

If you want a simpler solution, battens will be easier and should still do a good job of keeping the top flat.

I absolutely love your table. Is there a good woodworking resource for things like table frames and the like?

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Is there anything specifically wrong with making a screen door out of 2x material if I can’t find something a bit thinner?

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Make sure it’s good and dry and straight grained. There’s not much keeping a screen door flat so you need to start with flat wood that will stay flat.

Cool. I was thinking cedar or something of that nature and can find plenty of 1x but 2x seemed like really beefy. Current ones are 1 1/8 but really bad condition.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

dupersaurus posted:

Oh god we were just looking for a dining room table and it's chunky farmhouse chic as far as the eye can see

This is exactly why I am going to make an attempt to build one! Which leads me to some questions:

Is there a (usually) economical wood that will stand up to use as a dinner table and take stain pretty well? I would love something like a walnut but also that probably out of my price range.

I don’t even know where to get wood. I’m a super newbie, y’all.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Does anyone have a good recommendation for eye protection? Specifically something that can go over glasses?

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Any good tips for getting boards and ripping them straight with a circular saw? Idea being get like, a 2x6 and ripping it down to a 2x4 size but with actual straight edges. I don't have a table saw sadly

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

I kinda want to make a big-boy cutting board. I know you can do face grain, edge grain, or end grain. What is the "best" in terms of daily use, good on knives, so on so forth. What are for real butcher blocks? End grain?

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Jhet posted:

End grain can be really nice and pretty and soft on your knives. Maple, cherry, or walnut are all normal woods to use. Some big companies will pretend to use teak or acacia or something rare, but it’s not necessary. Good hard maple will make a great end grain board, and the wood will be soft on your extra sharp knives. But, you really don’t need it to be end grain. It’s nice, yeah, but a good long grain board isn’t going to mess up your edge much at all.

So take your pick really. What do you want it to look like? How thick (2-3”)? What sort of big heavy board will make you happy to use?

I think from 1.5-2 inches thick is what I am looking for, and it can be all one species of wood, the fanciest I might get is if I make some stripes if I used 2. I just want a nice genera purpose cutting board.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

2 questions: I'm about to get a planer, speciffically the Dewalt DW735x. How do you all feel about that particular model considering I don't have the space for a full size?


Secondly, what is a half decent finish for white oak? Going to use it for a tabletop, would like it to be dark and not quite as shiny, but open to ideas.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

NomNomNom posted:

How dark? India ink looks fantastic on white oak IMO, hit it with some matte poly after for durability.

Wanted dark like walnut but the walnut at the lumber yard wasn’t gonna work for what we needed.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Y’all my planer came a day early! Couldn’t wait to get started so I planed down my oak boards and they look great. Gonna rip the edges on my table saw to get them to the right size and I think tomorrow is glue up day. TightBond 1, 2, or 3 for a table?

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

1 or 2. My understanding is that 3 is weaker than the others, in exchange for better water resistance. I use 2 for practically everything these days, because I'm lazy.

I feel like 2 makes more sense. I don’t expect it to get wet but it’s a table and spills happen. Now I get to spend more money on clamps. Always clamps.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Thanks for the replies! It is interior, so I think I will split the difference to get myself a bit more working time and just go with TB2. It'll get minor spills and whatnot because it is a table, so I think that will be a good compromise.

Now onto finishing. I know I mentioned it earlier in the thread, but I've got some oak, and I would love to see the grain pattern. I am going to preface this with "yes I am going to do this on sample scraps of my cutoff oak parts"

Here is my thinking and maybe you all can steer me in a better direction, in terms of product:
1. Wood conditioner
2. Stain that bad-boy
3. Wood grain filler
4. Top coat

Would this be the general idea, with lots of sanding in between? For oak, water based, gel, or oil based stain? And I am assuming that if I start with either water or oil base, I need to stick with it all the way through.

KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Oct 13, 2021

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Is there anything wrong with Minwax stains as opposed to General Finishes? Minwax is everywhere and easy to get so I can do sample runs, General is either drive an hour or go on Amazon and is more expensive than I want to just take a swing on.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Anyone got a good video on using a router to round the edge of a tabletop?

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

It should just be a matter of putting a roundover bit with a guide bearing into a handheld router, dialing in the depth, then running it along the edge. What are you having trouble with?

Never owned a router in my life and want to make my table look like more than some boards glued together.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Cool. I came into a Ryobi burshless handheld router, reviews seem to say that for a handheld it is pretty good. At this point I have spent more on poo poo to build this table than if I would have gone and gotten someone to build me one at this point. I'm fine.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

This is maybe a dumb question but I am going to ask anyway. I have a good bit of white oak, could I use that to make a cutting board? I know some woods are better than others but oak seems to get me different answers when I look.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

So I essentially want to build a workbench but for my kitchen. I don’t want to use just pine 2x4s for the full body, I have some oak floating around. Realistically, how thick does the wood need to be to support a butcher block counter top? I’m planning on cabinet depth and height with a shelf on the bottom.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Calidus posted:

Are you going to attach this to the wall or the floor? Or will it be free standing?

Ideally shim it on the back and attach it to my crooked as hell wall through studs.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Kalman posted:

Just to be clear: do you want a workbench that you’ll do woodworking on, or do you basically want to build yourself a kitchen counter?

Essentially an open framed counter. Something similar to this

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KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

SimonSays posted:

Wow that fake breadboard end is the dumbest thing ever

Yeah. That was just the fastest example I could find. I actually aim to make a useful prep area.

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